Distance: 17.7km (559.0km), time spent: 10:08 (280:11).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 820m / 147m / 1403m.
Weather: Radiant, sunny and clear blue sky.
My nightly sojourn in the land of dreams is interrupted when I wake up bleeding heavily from my nose. It is cold in the morning, but it a clear sky and promises of another wonderful day again. Great colours up at the pass, I am a short trip out to see the sunrise behind the morning mist before I eat breakfast at the hyugeso. I have not entirely made up my mind as to where I will go today, the next significant pass is about 30km away, and between here and that pass there is a scenic valley beckoning.
The hosts at the Daetja Hyugeso inside the small restaurant and store.
And what a day this turned out to be, it was a beautiful walk that resulted in that the time almost ran away from me. Today Baekdudaegan took me over what is collectively known as Haedongsambong, sea east three peaks, consisting of Dutasan, Cheongoksan and Gojeokdae. In the great weather the colours of the forest turns alive, as opposed to the colourless shades in cloudy weather.
Morning view from above Daetjae.
I am eager for views, a little bit too eager, so shortly after I started walking from Daetjae, I climb on top of a rock to get what I want. With the result that I slip and hit myself just below one of my knees. It does hurt a little, but it does not feel serious and since it was clumsily done, it is my pride that receive the largest dent. To all excess, it later turns out that doing such antics is far from necessary today, the day offered more than enough views
A walk through a colourful forest up towards Dutasan.
Up towards Dutasan it is a walk through the colourful forest. It feels as the clear and blue sky is an energy injection, I feel more spirited than before. There are almost no clouds, just some few clouds floating in slow motion across the sky. A viewing point before the summit let me see the fruits of my toil the last days, in the horizon I can follow the ridge that I have been walking on far backwards. Far behind I see the summit of Hambaeksan, and the wind turbines that I passed are now like small miniatures of themselves. The view is lovely.
View back towards the ridge I have walked on, far back in the horizon you can see Hambaeksan (the communication masts visible next to the summit).
Dutasan (1355m) is held in reverence in the nearby villages and is a holy mountain for several of the temples in the area. The word duta means renouncing earthly and material gains, and instead live by the ascetic teachings of Buddha. At the moment, I am renouncing the walk for a time and take a long break at the summit in the nice weather. The summit consists of a slightly overgrown tomb, numerous signposts and information boards, some nice rocks to sit on and the usual stele. Below the top, there is a small water source that I go down to, honoured with its own tablet in black rock. The water sources here has often their own small ladles that you can use.
At the summit of Dutasan.
Finished with the first peak of Haedongsambong, I move in coalition with the ridge down to Bakdaljae where the gradient points upwards again to Cheongoksan (1403m). From the ridge, I can now see the East Sea and that is a sight that is much longed for, it feels good to see the sea again. Trees and bushes fence in Cheongoksan (the sapphire mountain). A solar powered communication mast stands on the summit, next to it the Korean flag is
fluttering.
View over the ridge the trail passes over, the two prominent peaks on the ridge are Cheongoksan and Gojeokdae.
Baekdudaegan dives down again, finished with the second peak of Haedongsambong. The third and last peak remains, and also the toughest. Up towards Gojeokdae the trail goes up over and past rocky formations with the help of ropes and scrambling. It is steep up, but the view is invaluable underway. I can look back at Dutasan and Cheongoksan in their emerald dresses. Since Dutasan, I have been able to look down at the Mureung-gorge, which is by many said to be the most beautiful valley in Korea. The weather is so marvellous that I relax at the summit (1353m) for more than one hour. Lunch today is not noodles as usual, but several sweet pastries that I bought with me from Daetjae, I eat them with ravenous appetite.
Overlooking the scenic gorge of Mureung, by many said to be the most beautiful valley in Korea.
In the horizon the East Sea.
In the horizon the East Sea.
At Gojeokdaesamgeori is the last possibility to get down into the scenic valley of Mureung, I need to make a choice. Shall I either continue further towards Baekbokryeong, all the way or stop and spend the night in the tent some place, or go the long and steep path down to the valley below me. I choose to go down; despite all the warnings my body sends me. And after the one-hour long climb down, all my muscles and joints are screaming at the thought of the return back up again tomorrow.
Climbing to the top of Gojeokdae with the aid of ropes. In the background Dutasan and Cheongoksan.
Beauty has its prize. Through the valley there is river running, which now more resembles a creek, where the water runs over white and polished rocks. The path follows the river down, while the sun now is on its way down behind the mountainsides above. The walk is great, I would have wanted to go here under better light conditions, I pass several small natural pools that shines in the last rays from the sun. In between, I have to go on metal stairs over and down the steepest parts. I take a short detour up to Siang Falls, a twin fall where two falls runs down from two separate sides.
The twin falls of Siang Falls down in the scenic valley of Mureung.
The entrance to the valley lies at the Samhwasa-temple, that I now arrives at tired. The temple is nice, but not as majestic as the Jikjisa and Buseoksa temples. An almost full moon shines above the temple buildings. Here as well I had to order the temple-stay in advance, even though I ask politely. It darkens when I go down to the small village below the temple to look for a place to stay the night.
Inside the main hall of the Samhwasa-temple.
It is quiet in the small restaurant street; I get a room at the Mureung Banseok Minbak. As usual, I try to order meat for dinner, but I am being met by the usual polite rejection, I end up ordering bibimbap and pajeon. The rest of the evening, I sit in the restaurant at the minbak I stay in and relaxes. The hostess is nice, treats me with coffee and fruits, and clearly wishes to talk to me, but her English is not good enough. The evening has descended upon the three peaks of Haedongsambong.
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