Ascent / descent: 1773m (43584m) / 688m (41733m).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 110m / 2185m / 2358m.
Weather: Magnificent.
I wake up after a restless sleep, due to an uneven ground under the tent. A lot of sounds during the night, but it are quiet and calm again in the morning. Nice weather, so everything is set for another great day, the bad weather from the first days in the Ariege is now forgotten. The dinner yesterday and breakfast today has made a solid toll on my food bag. I leave some food behind for the benefit of other wanderers that would happen to arrive here without, since my plan today is to go to Refuge de Rulhe, where food is available.
Cabane d'Artaran. In the background Sirmont which I walked over yesterday.
My backpack is considerably lighter when Claire and I leave Cabane de Clarans at the start of todays stage, so I walk much faster than her up the nice ascent to Jasse d'Artaran. It is always nice to be able to look back to where you have walked before, from here across the valley to Sirmont and even further back Pla de Montcamp. Cabane d'Artaran (1695m) has nothing but an empty room to stay in and nothing else, but is located in a great spot.
At Centre d'Accueil du Plateau du Beille (1817m) there is a restaurant, which gives something of a back to the civilization feeling. But since I want to wait for Claire, I find it convenient for a stop for some refreshments. The view is at least excellent, in the horizon the mountains of Andorra are reaching for the sky. Next to the restaurant is Angaka Village Nordique, where you can stay the night in a yurt-tent or a Sami-tent among others. I walk together with Claire after she has arrived coming up from the path.
Magnificent landscape at Plateau de Beille.
After having followed a trail up alongside Piparlan todays magnificent mountain landscape is beginning to reveal itself. When we have walked around Cabane de Beille-d'en-Haut (1939m) the lovely Plateau de Beille is unfolding before us. The trail is primarily following a vehicle track, which is getting more and more overgrown the further we go, bit it's the last that is on our minds as it crosses over wonderful, green, lush and round mountains. In the horizon jutted peaks and blue sky.
Claire at Col de Didorte.
Claire is stopping for lunch at Prat Moll (1999m), but I don't feel hungry and are eager to continue the great walk so I go on. But the magic word has been said and it doesn't take long before my stomach (that stayed completely calm before) now nicely asks for more food. After a small climb up from Col de Finestres (1967m) I walk out on a spur below Crête des Génibres to eat. Claire is passing by on the trail while the steam from the tea is mixing with the leaves on the tree above.
View back towards Plateau de Beille from Pic de Campalou. Pla de Montcamp visible far back in the background.
I catch up with Claire just before Col de Didorte (2093m) where there is a short and steep ascent before the trail passes over a green field up to a junction at 2278m. And the scene for todays outing, I set off on the Tour de la Montagnes d'Ax and up to the Pic de Campalou (2132m). I'm met with a great view back to Plateau de Beille and the landscape around.
With Pic de Rulhe (2783m) now dominating the horizon the last part of the stage is going over several undulating ridges, with Crêtes des Izards the most significant. A lovely valley below with a symphony of cow bells. It's a great walk, but heavy. I run out of water. At Col de Terre Nègre (2304m) I can finally look down upon Refuge de Rulhe, Claire is now behind me again after having to take a break while receiving a phone call.
Grand mountain scenery from Pic de Campalou. Crête des Izards where the path passes over and Pic de Rulhe in the upper right in the picture.
I arrive at Refuge de Rulhe (2185m) quite thirsty after a fantastic walk today (I drench down a coke and an orangina upon arrival); Claire is arriving a little bit later. The evening at the refuge was nice. And tomorrow I will be at the last page of the Pyrénées Ariégeoises topo guide.
Looking down at Refuge de Rulhe from Col de Terre Nègre.
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