Ascent / descent: 959m (54762m) / 573m (54160m).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 550m / 936m / 936m.
Weather: Sunny and nice weather, warm, some clouds.
With me in my backpack after the breakfast at the Hostal des Trabucayres I've got a not so good weather forecast for tomorrow, the weather gods supposedly doesn't want to smile down upon me on the last day of my adventure. For the walk of today they are however keeping the clouds at bay. From Las Illas the route is going up on a quiet and peaceful road to yet another Super, Super Las Illas.
Walk on the ridge between France and Spain on a nice track, here from the route after Col del Priorat.
After Super Las Illas the trail is following the ridge alongside the border to Spain, the vegetation here has now changed and is noticeably closer to the Mediterranean. It's a nice walk through an open forest. Canigou is visible between the trees. At Mas Nou there is a sign that it's forbidden to take pictures and that it isn't allowed for everyone to walk further on the trail, walkers of the GR10 are though allowed apparently. The reason is that this is some kind of a naturist farm. However, there aren't any angry naked farmers coming jumping out on the trail when I pass. The builds of the farm looks somewhat tired.
View of the Canigou from Las Carboneres.
It's a clear blue sky and warm for a change, something it hasn't been for a long time. The spectacular areas on the trail is now far behind and the route is now clearly going down towards a lower landscape. I go up to Pic del Priorat (492m), but there isn't any view from the top. Whereupon I afterwards are overlooking where the GR10 is going off from the path and then continues on, and not notice that I've gone wrong before I'm down at Las Carboneres (337m). Where it is a nice view of the Canigou next to the ruins of an old farm building.
The Roman ruins at Col de Panissars with Fort de Bellegarde above.
The Romans came a long way, de also came here. Below Fort de Bellegarde lies the Roman ruins at Col de Panissars. I go up to the fort. It's a free entrance today so I leave my backpack behind at the counter and steps into the tourist shoes. The fort is big and from the top of the walls there are good views to the area around. To the south what was the main route through the Pyrenees in the classic age is stretching downwards, the Romans called it Summum Pyrenæum, now it's a motorway. Le Perthus is situated below between the two countries.
View from Fort de Bellegarde, Spain in the valley below.
I'm hungry when I arrive at Le Perthus (290m), but it isn't tempting to sit down to eat at a place here. This is an awful tourist trap, with unnumbered shops selling various baubles. But when I called to order a place at Chalet de l'Albere I got the message that they couldn't serve me dinner, so I've to do some provisioning here for the evening. After having stocked up with provisions I try to put the place quickly behind me. My stomach complains, but the sight of the place complains more.
At Col de la Comtesse (513m) I finally give in to my hunger and sit down to eat. It has gotten even warmer, and my backpack weights a lot more now. On a sign France is crossed out and replaced with Catalunia Nord. Le Perthus is fortunately easily forgotten on the way up to Saint Martin d'Albere. The trail is then going steep up with a good view back to where I've walked. My legs are a little bit tender when I arrive at Col d'Ouillat (936m) and Chalet de l'Albere.
View from Col d'Ouillat.
The place is situated with a great view of the valley below; far below I can see Fort de Bellegarde on its small hill. I didn't get to know why I couldn't get dinner here on the phone, but the reason was that there is a party here in the evening and hence there isn't any place to sit if it should be bad weather. But the weather is now brilliant, and the best in a long time, so they are arranging dinner for me and some others on a place outside.
Chalet de l'Albere.
While I'm sitting and enjoying the sight of the view and the darkness descending over the landscape and the pass between France and Spain my thoughts are going to that I tomorrow will be starting on my last on the GR10. It feels a little bit unreal. The remote goal is now just around the corner and the start of the journey is now lying remotely behind me. Here they meant it would be nice weather tomorrow. From the restaurant there is a lot of joyful voices, the guests has arrived. It was a nice walk today, with the exception of Le Perthus. I'm wondering a little bit of where Claire is.
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