Another one of those quiet mornings. I leave Rabanal de Camino walking through its silent streets with just a faint glow of morning light behind me. A dim red line that later would blaze in glory as I head up into the Montes de León.
A wonderful sunrise from the Montes de León.
From Rabanal de Camino at around 1175m, the route goes steady upwards to Foncebadón at about 1437m. It is a lovely walk where the views are opening up in tune with the rising of the sun. When the sun finally breaks the horizon, both the landscape below me and the path ahead of me are bathed in a wonderful red hue.
Foncebadón.
Foncebadón is also one of those half-deserted places pilgrims passes through on their way to Santiago de Compostela. It was once infamous for its stray dogs, putting some strain and nervousness on the passing pilgrims. Although there have been some incidents related to stray dogs elsewhere on the Camino, significant measures have been done here to clear up the problem. We face no problems.
Cruz de Ferro.
Although half-deserted, there are some places for the pilgrims in Foncebadón, both for spending the night and getting something to drink or eat. I could easily have spent the night here, but the walk from Rabanal de Camino is only 5.6km long, though, so it is way to early to stop. We settle for some refreshments at a local pilgrim bar.
Walking through the Montes de León.
After Foncebadón the walk now goes through an open scenery with increasing views, but not free of trees. Remains of buildings are situated next to the path, probably old mountain farms.
An abandoned house.
At Alto de Foncebadón we arrive at the Cruz de Ferro, said to be the highest point on the Camino, but I believe it to be a point a little bit further. However, the cross of iron would be the perfect spot for that designation. Next to is the Ermita de Santiago Apostol.
Manjarin and its albergue run by the last Knight Templar.
Cruz de Ferro is iconic on the Camino Francés. The custom is for pilgrims to carry with them a stone from home, symbolizing a burden that they are carrying. At the cross they are to leave the stone, representing a burden left behind. I had totally forgot it, instead I took a stone that I found on the way and left behind something else. A token of another kind of burden. I cut my credit card in several pieces and glued some of them to the stone, which I then left behind.
View from above El Acebo, Ponferrada behind in the horizon.
The green and undulating mountain scenery surrounding us continues to the next renowned place. In Spain they are known as despoblados, deserted or uninhabited places. Manjarín is one of them, although with one notable exception to the rule. It is the home of a man who calls himself the last Knight Templar, known as Tomás. Here he has made an albergue in an old and abandoned school and if you want to have a memorable night on the Camino this is it.
Martina, Torsten and Alessandra at the Crucero de El Acebo.
There is no electricity at the place, and almost no light pollution. A place to watch the stars indeed. Unfortunately for me, the rumours have it that the cats share the dormitory with the pilgrims, and I am allergic to them. It might only be a legend, but we move on, leaving the signpost showing the directions to Trondheim written on it behind.
El Acebo.
Before the descent to El Acebo, the highest point of Camino Francés is passed at 1505m. Below we can see Ponferrada. El Acebo is a charming little village where we make the stop for the night. Especially charming are the wooden balconies overlooking the street often adorned with flowers, a piece of vernacular architecture.
Evenin sun from El Acebo.
At sunset, we gather at the Crucero de El Acebo. A short day in distance, a long day in experiences.
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