Distance: 26.2km (398.3km).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 840m / 885m / 900m.
Weather: Not a cloud in the sky.
Today, the most exciting thing that awaited me was a 17 kilometre long stretch of walking without anything at all. A straight line with dryness on all sides. There was one thing absolutely every Camino guidebook had in common this time, fill up with enough water in advance, as well as food. Most of the excitement lay in not suffer from too much boredom.
Morning in Carrion de Los Condes, sitting and contemplating about my Camino while the morning light slowly awakens.
However, it was not the long stretch of walking that bothered me most today. Up to now, I have not been bothered by any of the ailments that the pilgrims usually suffers from, like sore feet, blisters and stiff joints after all the walking. Where the other pilgrims uses shoes that are more lightweight, I however, walk with my quite heavier hiking boots. This was something I did on intention. I have used those shoes in over ten years now and to date never got any blisters by using them. Unfortunately, I think there are many that choose to buy completely new shoes for the Camino, but forget that they need to be walked in before you can use them on a long walk like this.
Jon Venn along the way out of Carrion de Los Condes in the morning.
Back to my first feet related ailment on the Camino, the only thing I have otherwise been bothered by is snoring in the dormitories. Today however, I noticed that the top of my feet hurt a little. And this became more and more pressing during the day. I have probably felt it a tiny bit in the last few days, but have not been bothered by it. Until now. To try to amend it, I decided to change how I tie my shoes.
Canada Real Leon, today's walk went on a long and straight section that is also known as a Canada Real, old transhumance routes for herding livestock across Spain.
In the morning though, everything was good. Quiet and calm in the opening hours of the day out from Carrion de Los Condes, Christoph already early on his way, me and Jon alternating between walking past each other. The route went on the paved road to Calzada Romana / Via Aquitana after crossing the river Carrion. Until then, there had been vegetation alongside the road, afterwards it bid farewell.
The albergue in Calzadilla de la Cueza, a solitary pilgrim waiting for it to open.
From Calzada Romana the awaited dry section is beginning, going almost in a straight line towards Calzadilla de la Cueza. The strange thing about it is that it goes through an area of wetland at the start. Something that you did not really expect, given what you have heard about this part of the meseta or Camino. More interesting is it that you walk on a section of an old Roman way that has been used in over 2000 years, built by massive amounts of stone transported to the area. The wetland was apparently devoid of any suitable stones for the undertaking.
A stone with a map of the route, on the alternative section between Calzadilla de la Cueza and Ledigos.
Then I could look at the long section that just extends and extends further towards the blue background. Fortunately enough, this lone line of dust does not cover all the 17 kilometres mentioned before, they are measured from Carrion de Los Condes and I have at this time already covered some of them. It was just to buckle up, grab a sip of water and suppress what discomfort my feet gave me.
Someone had written Pain on a rock on the ground, fittingly enough since this was the first time on the Camino that I had any ailments to talk about.
The long stretch that you are walking on is by the way a Canada Real, old and large transhumance routes used to herd livestock across large distances on the Iberian peninsula. Now it is used to herd pilgrims towards Santiago. That there were nothing to get on this section was not correct. After walking for a while, I arrive at a mobile café. Where the owner sold cold refreshments, bocadillos (baguettes) and hot dogs from a barbeque. The Norwegians that I met yesterday at the albergue in Carrion de Los Condes were also here, so I sat down with them and refreshed my Norwegian.
A dovecote outside Ledigos.
In Calzadilla del Cuesa, I had come to the end of the long stretch. Outside the albergue, there was a lonely pilgrim sitting and waiting for it to open. I found myself a table together with the other pilgrims in the local bar instead. My feet was hurting even more afterwards. I decided to take the alternative route that goes through a calm and thin woodland instead of the main route along the road, Senda del Bosque. It was here that I made the decision to change how I tied the laces on my boots. Jon disappeared past me on the way, seemingly in a hurry.
Ocher-clad houses in Terradillos de Los Templarios.
I arrived in Ledigos, yet another example of a dry and dusty village where I found myself a cold beer in an almost empty bar, I felt slightly out of place. From the dust in Ledigos, I chose again the alternative route that avoids the roads. My entry into the village of the Knights Templar hence came from the side and not through the main road. That the albergue I arrive at has taken the name Albergue Jacques de Molay is not really of a surprise. I stiffled a small shout of joy from escaping my mouth when I heard that you sleep five persons only at each room. To have a night without snoring would be marvellous.
Albergue Jacques de Molay, named after the famous leader of the Knights Templar.
Torsten, Alessandra and Martina also came to the albergue, but Jon had taken the main route and ended up at the first albergue he came to (which the alternative route bypassed). We were satisfied with this place, which had cozy small backyard garden and a nice balcony to enjoy the sunset from, but we were more sceptic to the young boy walking around with a rifle (a modern Knights Templar?).
Sunset in Terradillos de Los Templarios. From left Martina, me, Torsten and Alessandra.
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