Camino Frances

Camino Frances is the most famous of the various pilgrim roads to Santiago de Compostela. Saint Jean Pied de Port, which is situated on the French side of the Pyrenees, is by most pilgrims counted as the official start of the route, but there are also quite many that begin from Roncesvalles. The Camino is about 800km long. To get the Compostela, or the proof of your pilgrimage, you have to walk at least 100km. This leads to that most of the people who walks the Camino begin in Sarria, which is located just before the 100km mark.

In the fall of 2011 I travelled to France and Spain to walk the Camino Frances, here you'll find my story from the pilgrimage (work in progress).

Day   1 (19.09):

Saint Jean Pied de Port - Roncesvalles

Day   2 (20.09):

Roncesvalles - Larrasoana

Day   3 (21.09):

Larrasoana - Pamplona

Day   4 (22.09):

Pamplona - Puente la Reina

Day   5 (23.09):

Puente la Reina - Ayegui

Day   6 (24.09):

Ayegui - Torres del Rio

Day   7 (25.09):

Torres del Rio - Logrono

Day   8 (26.09):

Logrono - Najera

Day   9 (27.09):

Najera - Azofra

Day 10 (28.09):

Azofra - Granon

Day 11 (29.09):

Granon - Tosantos

Day 12 (30.09):

Tosantos - Ages

Day 13 (01.10):

Ages - Burgos

Day 14 (02.10):

Burgos - Hontanas

Day 15 (03.10):

Hontanas - Boadilla del Camino

Day 16 (04.10):

Boadilla del Camino - Carrion de Los Condes

Day 17 (05.10):

Carrion de Los Condes - Terradillos de Los Templarios

Day 18 (06.10):

Terradillos de Los Templarios - Bercianos del Real Camino

Day 19 (07.10):

Bercianos del Real Camino - Mansilla de Las Mulas

Day 20 (08.10):

Mansilla de Las Mulas - León

Day 21 (09.10):

León

Day 22 (10.10):

Leon - Villar de Mazarife

Day 23 (11.10):

Villar de Mazarife - Astorga

Day 24 (12.10):

Astorga - Rabanal de Camino

Day 25 (13.10):

Rabanal de Camino - El Acebo

Day 26 (14.10):

El Acebo - Ponferrada

Day 27 (15.10):

Ponferrada

Day 28 (16.10):

Ponferrada - Villafranca del Bierzo

Day 29 (17.10):

Villafranca del Bierzo - Vega de Valcarce

Day 30 (18.10):

Vega de Valcarce - O Cebreiro

Day 31 (19.10):

O Cebreiro - Triacastela

Day 32 (20.10):

Triacastela - Sarria

Day 33 (21.10):

Sarria - Portomarin

Day 34 (22.10):

Portomarin - Palas del Rei

Day 35 (23.10):

Palas del Rei - Ribadiso de Baixo

Day 36 (24.10):

Ribadiso de Baixo - Arca O Pino

Day 37 (25.10):

Arca O Pino - Santiago de Compostela

Day 38 (26.10):

Santiago de Compostela

Day 39 (27.10):

Cee - Finisterre

Camino Francés // day 31 // O Cebreiro - Triacastela

Distance: 20.5km (648.1km).

I have now walked for a month without rain. So far, the only rainy day was the first day when I crossed over the Pyrenées from Saint Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles. I do not count the evening at Ayegui, however, which had a thunderstorm but only some light drizzle as it passed by overhead.

House in the fog, Liñares.

Galicia made true of its reputation of facing more weather than the other regions the pilgrims pass through on their way to the tomb of St. James. Yesterday we crossed into the region and today we have rain.

Alto de San Roque, hold on to your hat.

From O Cebreiro the route goes on an undulating walk until Fonfría, from where the descent to Triacastela begins. The woods are dark, misty and mysterious as we walk through them in the morning.

Descent from Alto de San Roque.

Out of the woods, the world is the mist. We pass by the remains of a stone house, where someone has put up a wild camp next to, which looks bedraggled. The small hamlet of Liñares appears out of the mist by a house and the gleam from a streetlamp.

An emerging landscape near Hospital de Condesa.

Alto de San Roque is another iconic location on the Camino Francés. Here you find the monument of a pilgrim braving the Galician weather, a fitting scene for today. Normally, I would expect the views to be excellent from here, but the statue does not hold on to its hat for nothing today.

Approaching Hospital de Condesa in the mist.

Leaving the weather worn pilgrim behind, the clouds are beginning to clear. Not to expose a clear blue sky, but enough that scenery appears in the horizon. Ridges appears above rivers of clouds.

Only to disappear again when we walk into Hospital da Condesa. We find a bar behind the white walls of a building blending in with the fog, where we also find a hot cup of coffee.

Herding cows in the mist.

On the descent from Alto do Poio to Triacastela, it is all Galicia, both in weather, in landscape and the appearance of the villages and farms. Farmers herding their cattle are crossing over in front of us, a woman leading two cows walks ahead of us in the mist. The cattle leave their signatures on the Way.

Ermida de San Pedro do Biduedo.

We have lunch in a bar in Fonfría. Passes by an old chapel in Biduedo, Ermida de San Pedro do Biduedo. Further down we emerge underneath the cover of the clouds. By the time we arrive in Triacastela, the clouds have begun to disperse and blue sky greets us.

Camino on the way towards Triacastela.

Triacastela is another nice village, or maybe small town, on the Camino. The municipal albergue is situated in a field just outside. It is nice, and we like the common room at the end of the building, with large windows providing views of the surroundings.

Passing through a galician village.

You will not get many points for guessing what the name of the village originates from. There were three castles that once stood here. They no longer exist, and were probably destroyed by Vikings a long time ago (which apparently were later defeated at O Cebreiro). We, on the other hand, come in peace.

Triacastela.

Despite the inclement weather, today was a nice day. It brought a change of atmosphere.

<- O Cebreiro

Camino Francés // day 30 // Vega de Valcarce - O Cebreiro

Distance: 12.4km (627.6km).

The Camino Francés is not without its ascents, and its very first climb is already at its start from Saint Jean Pied de Port. If however starting the pilgrimage in Spain, the climb to O Cebreiro might probably be the most anticipated of them.

Puente Medieval sobre el río Valcarce.

Starting to walk in the early morning as usual, the morning mist on the fields are revealed as the sky begins to brighten. It is ghostly serene as we follow the road out of Vega de Valcarce.

Las Herrerías.

The walk has its small amusements. The Terraza Río Arríba offers a single table without any chairs. A derelict house has a just as derelict laundry machine in its door, although the house is probably older.

We cross over the Puente Medieval sobre el río Valcarce and walk into Las Herrerías, where everything is still quiet. It is from Las Herrerías the actual climb up to O Cebreiro begins, the steepest on the Camino with an inclination of 480 metres on the 5.7 kilometres up to Laguna de Castilla.

Scenic view from the start of the ascent to O Cebreiro.

The initial walk out of Las Herrerías goes on the road, but it eventually transitions into a path. Despite the first section going on a paved road, the scenery is wonderful. The sun has now started to appear higher on the sky, painting the contours of the surrounding mountains with the morning mist fading out.

The Camino going through a pleasant woodland section.

Some of the walk goes through scenic woods, but once higher up wide-open views are taking over. La Faba lies at about 900m, with still 400 metres left to climb to O Cebreiro at about 1300m. It has an albergue that is renowned for being one of the best on the Camino, but although we do not have a long day today, it is still too early to stop. The albergue is run by the German confraternity of St. James, so it is known as the German albergue (the Refugio Gaucelmo that I stayed at in Rabanal de Camino is run by the British confraternity).

Views are outstanding, with the ridges, hills and mountains forming layers in the horizon.

A wonderful view on the way up towards O Cebreiro.

From Laguna de Castilla the gradient is decreasing, although the route is still going upwards.

We arrive at the stone marking the entrance into Galicia, the last autonomous region on the Camino. It is a nice monument wonderfully ruined by inconsiderate and thoughtless pilgrims that has defaced it by scribbled nonsense all over it.

The milestone marking the entry into Galicia.

O Cebreiro is famous for its curious buildings with thatched roofs, called a palloza, although they are not restricted to that specific village. These are sturdy houses of stone built to withstand heavy weather, with conical thatched roof.

A palloza at O Cebreiro.

We spot a couple on motorbikes with a pilgrim credential, looking very much like misusing it to obtain cheap accommodation.

View of O Cebreiro from a nearby hill.

The municipal albergue here is our first encounter with a typical Galician albergue, it is basic, but nice. It has got a fully functional kitchen, except that there is not anything there that one can use to exactly prepare a meal with or eat from.

Cross above O Cebreiro.

Above O Cebreiro there is a small hill with a cross on top, while my father is taking a rest at a café, I walk up to it. It offers stunning views, and below I can see the picturesque buildings of O Cebreiro.

In O Cebreiro.

A stunning day with wonderful scenery, which we end by eating out at a local place. When we return to the albergue, the kitchen is full of other pilgrims sharing a big meal, which invites us to sit down with them. Although some of them must have brought with them the necessary utensils to prepare the food.

<- Vega de ValcarceTriacastela ->

Camino Francés // day 29 // Villafranca del Bierzo - Vega de Valcarce

Distance: 21.1km (615.2km).

The steepest ascent on the Camino Francés in Spain is getting closer, but we will not be tackling that until tomorrow. For this day, we settle for the walk leading up to it, through the Valcarce valley.

Walking through the streets of Villafranca del Bierzo early in the morning.

However, we would not be without a climb today. Torsten had reported that the official route going down in the valley was not the most interesting in the beginning, mostly going next to the road. I managed to convince Jan that we should walk the alternative route passing by Pradela instead, but that meant going up into the mountains instead of following the valley floor.

View from the Camino de la Montaña, Villafranca del Bierzo below.

The Camino de la Montaña leaves the original route just after crossing over the Puente Medieval de Vilafranca bridge, it goes up on a street to the right that soon becomes a gravel track leading up into the hills and mountains.

Camino de la Montaña.

We climb upwards as the light climbs upwards on the sky. A viewpoint reveals that this was the right choice, we can see Ponferrada below, as well as the road where the official route is going.

On the way towards Pradela.

Moreover, the route forward is also a treat, with the gravel track slowly winding upwards alongside the contours of the mountains. It is very pleasant walking.

Ambasmestas.

To reach the hamlet of Pradela, one has to leave the route, but it is worth it. Its cluster of old houses can be seen nestled underneath the gentle rolling mountains.

At Trabadelo, after a relatively steep descent, we are back at the original route nearby a building with a lot of paraphernalia outside.

A little hamlet nestled underneath the tall viaducts in the Valcarce valley.

The walk is now following the valley floor, but it is also a change of scenery for us. We walk close by a road, but it is not heavily trafficked. That is reserved for the highway, which thankfully goes higher up. I find the huge and tall modern viaducts that is towering over old villages a fascinating sight.

Albergue life in Vega de Valcarce.

The albergue in Vega de Valcarce is basic, but we like the common kitchen space between the two buildings, it has a roof but is otherwise outside with a nice view.

Castillo de Sarracín.

Quite visible from the village is Castillo de Sarracín, situated at the top of a hill. Having time left of the day, I decide to climb up to it. My father feels satisfied with the day, so he is staying behind at the albergue, having company with two Danish pilgrims.

View of Vega de Valcarce from the castle.

I am a little bit unsure at the start in terms of finding the way up, but I find my way up through a forest with ancient chestnut trees. The view from the castle, or rather the ruins of it, is great. I can see far off in the distance, and below the huge viaducts crisscrossing the valley. Not to forget that the castle itself is worth taking a look at.

Remains of the Castillo de Sarracín.

A different kind of day on the Camino, although it serves as a prelude to the climb tomorrow. The alternative Camino de la Montaña is recommended. If time and strength left visit the castle of the Saracens.

<- Villafranca del BierzoO Cebreiro ->

Camino Francés // day 28 // Ponferrada - Villafranca del Bierzo

Distance: 22.7km (594.1km).

With Torsten, Alessandra and Martina one day ahead of me, it is now only me and Jan (there are of course the other pilgrims too). I hope my father will have just as good an experience on the Camino as I have had so far.

Morning sun after having left Ponferrada.

Today we will walk to Villafranca del Bierzo, and as the name is indicating we have now entered the Bierzo region. Until the climb up to O Cebreiro, we will mostly walk down in a valley surrounded by mountains. The part of the Bierzo region the Camino goes through is characterized by its orchards and riverbanks and that it has a considerably milder climate than the high plateau I have walked through.

Walking past dilapidated houses.

The sun is rising behind a row of windmills at the top of a ridge. Then the fields are glowing red. We pass by fields with peppers and tomatoes. The walk is on a mix of roads and gravel tracks.

Jan on the Camino on his first day.

We walk through villages where its houses and balconies are worn and in disrepair, probably places who has lost its inhabitants.

Lagar de Vino in Cacabelos, an old wine press.

In Cacabelos, the municipal albergue is in a church. Before that, passing by an old wine press, Lagar de Vino, after having a break at a café in the small town.

Albergue municipal de Cacabelos.

The best of the scenery on this stage is after Cacabelos, where we evade most of the walking on the road by taking the alternative through Valtuille de Arriba. In the small villages we pass through, corncobs are hanging out to dry underneath the small awnings.

Bierzo scenery.

In the distance we spot the Cantariña Vinos de Familia vineyard, whose house is probably one of the most photographed on this part of the Camino, dominated by the trees towering above it. I make another pinecone animal that I deposit next to a vineyard.

Cantariña Vinos de Familia vineyard.

At the entrance to Villafranca del Bierzo lies the Iglesia de Santiago church. It is its gate that is the main focus, the Puerto del Perdón. For those not able to walk all the way to Santiago de Compostela, this might be the place to seek for repentance. It is said that if you enter through the door of forgiveness and take communion, you will be pardoned for your sins.

The charming Albergue Ave Fénix in Villafranca del Bierzo.

Don Jato is one of the legends on the Camino Francés, he runs the albergue we are staying at, Ave Fénix. A charming crow’s nest of an albergue. At dinner there are pilgrims from twelve different nations at the table.

Villafranca del Bierzo.

Villafrance del Bierzo appear to be a nice town, although I do not spend that much time looking around in it. There appear to be plenty of religious institutions here, with a convent, nunnery, collegiate church and the usual churches and chapels. We arrive too late to visit the old castle, Castillo-Palacio de los Marqueses de Villafranca.

Iglesia de Santiago

A nice day and hopefully it was good stage to ease into the Camino Francés.

<- PonferradaVega de Valcarce ->

Camino Francés // day 27 // Ponferrada

Distance: 0.0km (571.4km).

Another one of those mornings where I know I have to say goodbye again. I will have to take a zero day here in Ponferrada too, but I will not be alone all day. My father, Jan, will arrive in the afternoon, marking a kind of fourth stage of my Camino.

Plaza Mayor, with some sort of demonstration going on.

Note to myself, if someone is going to walk together with me, but join me at a later place, I would in the future do this in another way. It is probably a better idea to just walk as I would like to, and then notify the other part of my whereabouts when he or she has arrived in the country. From then find out how and where to meet.

Market stalls below the castle.

As I had spent the evening at an albergue, I have to leave it at the same time as the other pilgrims. Thankfully, they had told me that I could possibly stay for a consecutive night, despite it is not normally allowed.

Interior view of the Castillo de los Templarios.

At the Plaza Ayuntamiento there appear to be some sort of demonstration, as there are some tents and canvases there with banners and posters with slogans on them. I am unsure, though, what they are demonstrating against.

There is a row of market stalls next to the river Sil on the banks opposite the castle walls. Plaza de La Virgen de la Encina and the Torre del Reloj are other places worth a visit, but they are also hard to miss.

Castillo de los Templarios.

One can take a walk beneath the very same walls, but there is no avoiding that it is the castle itself that one should visit when in Ponferrada. Castillo de los Templarios stands as a poignant monument to the Knight Templars, who was positioned here to protect the pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela.

The castle itself covers about 16 000 square meters and hosted the Grand Master of the Knight Templars before the order was disbanded. It is well preserved and also provides nice views of Ponferrada and its surroundings.

Ponferrada, Plaza Virgen de la Encina.

In the afternoon, I meet my father, and we are thankfully admitted to spend the night at the albergue. We share the room with a grumpy man that grudgingly admits that he is only walking the Camino due to the wish of his wife.

Evening sun in Ponferrada.

We eat dinner at a restaurant in the old town, and I am already in the process of teaching him about the life on the Camino. I am looking forward to showing him the way.

<- PonferradaVillafranca del Bierzo ->