Shikoku Henro Michi // day 38 // Awai - Iyadaniji

Shikoku 88 Temples Pilgrimage, day 38.
Temples: #67-70 (Daikōji, Jinnein, Kanonji, Motoyamaji).
Distance: 30.7km (1107.0km), time spent: 9:49.
Weather: Rainy.

I walk together with Osata-san from Minshuku Aozora in the morning. Aozora means blue sky, but there is nothing resembling a blue sky above us when we leave, the top of Unpenjisan is covered in clouds. I am glad that I do not have to walk down from Unpenji today, but still would have wanted to stay up there. Thankfully, it has not begun to rain in full yet. It is a quiet and moody walk in the beginning of the day, and it is nice to walk together with someone. We pass by a pond by the name of Iwanabeike, which to me sounds like I Wanna Be Ike (I want to be a pond?). It has posters alongside of it, showing scary fishes with claws and teeth jumping up from the water, not a place to go for a swim then.

Me and Osata-san outside Minshuku Aozora in the morning.

Daikōji (The Temple of the Great Growth), #67, might be a step down from Unpenji, but is a quiet and atmospheric temple, and more so due to the rain that started when we arrived at the temple. Daikōji looks secluded from the outside world by its location within the trees surrounding it. Osata-san appear to be more in a rush at the temple, I think he worries a little bit about the length of his walk today, as his knees are still troubling him. I take it slow however, so he leaves before I do.

Daikōji.

Wet roads on the way.

Back from the mountains, the route again traverses a flat and populated lower area, interspersed with fields, acres and small ponds. The rain turns itself on and off. I believe I saw Osata-san used an app on his smartphone for navigating the trail, but I am not sure it shows the correct route. Or my guidebook is showing me the wrong route. For after a while I can see him again, but he is then somewhere off from where the route is going, at least according to my guidebook and the waymarkers I walk past. Hopefully he is not as astray as the clouds fumbling down the mountains in the horizon appear to be. A heron standing on a boat in the Niike pond does not look very happy with the weather either.

A heron watches over the rainy weather on a boat at Niike pond.

Temple #68 and #69, Jinnein and Kanonji, lies side by side, but before I go to visit them I start walking up to the Kotohiki Hachimangū shrine. The long staircase leading up the shrine is wonderful, where stone lanterns and stone posts acts as a fence on both sides all the way up. At the top, the area below is barely visible underneath the clouds.

The stairway leading up to the Kotohiki Hachimangū shrine.

Kotohiki Hachimangū lies overlooking a park with the same name, Kotohiki. From a pavilion, I can look down at the park, staring straight at something that looks like a labyrinth of sand. The labyrinth is actually a huge coin made in the sand. I had originally planned to go and see the coin from ground level, but seeing it from here it sufficient enough, probably even better. The coin, called Kan-ei-tsuho, is a 17th century styled coin that is 345m in circumference. Apparently, since I now has looked at the coin, I will have a long life and no financial worries.

The big Kan-ei-tsuho coin in Kotohiki Park.

Approaching the 'twin' temples from above, I can see Osata-san below. Jinnein (#68, The Temple of God's Grace) and Kanonji (#69, The Temple of Kannon) are sharing the same templegrounds, and also the nōkyōchō-office. I am confused as to which temple is which. It does not matter in terms of being able to conduct the temple rituals at both temples, but I might be shuffling around which hondo and daishido belonging to which temple. I later learn that Jinnein is the temple that has an ugly concrete building and staircase you have to walk up in to get to the hondo, and that Kanonji is the more traditional one. If you arrive at the temple through the main gate, Jinnein is the temple to the left and Kanonji is the temple to the right. For me, it was the other way around. With the exception of the ugly entrance to the hondo of Jinnein, the temples are nice.

Temple garden at Jinnein.

Kanonji.

Osata-san had for sure taken another route to the temples, and was a little bit surprised when I showed him the route in my guidebook, it came up differently on his app. Leaving Kanonji, both temple and town (they share the name), the route follows the Saita river towards the next temple. It is nice to walk next to a river for a change, but be sure to take the quiet road on the southern side of the river. A small path seduces me to a visit to Kamara Jinja, where the main shrine building is covered with writing.

Riverwalk next to the Saita river.

It is not the rain that is the reason for why the large five-storied pagoda at Motoyamaji, #70 (Headquarters Temple), is covered by a huge tarpaulin. With my fascination of the pagodas, I feel sorry for not seeing it, but not sorry for it being renovated. Kōbō Daishi apparently built the hondo of the temple in one single night. At the temple I move from shelter to shelter, in the form of the awnings of the various buildings, to escape the rain. It is somewhat strange to think of that I have now visited 70 temples, it feels like time has flown by. Or it might be the feeling of the temples that affects me, as if time moves slower within them.

At Motoyamaji temple.

From Motoyamaji is is about 12km to Iyadaniji, which is where I need to go today. The weather has felt like an extra weight today, and so I am unsure if I will be in time. When I leave Motoyamaji, the clock has already passed two. What counts in my favor, is that the route appear to be going in an almost straight and flat line towards Iyadanisan, should be easy going. Even in the rain. Though time is truly relative when you throw my curiosity into the mix, as I go for a visit to the okunoin of Motoyamaji, named Myōonji. And then I miss the path, continuing on the road instead, which rewards me with a much needed coffee at a combini where I can relocate the path from again.

A somber horizon.

On the rest of the walk to Iyadaniji I walk past several small ponds, going mostly on small sideroads. It is quite plesant, even with the on and off rain. I catch up with Osata-san again, and we walk together the rest of the way, passing by several fields with the colourful cosmos-flowers. They stand in beautiful opposition to the heavy clouds that torments the mountains and hills in the horizon. On the final approach to the climb up to the temple there is a makeshift foot bath available for the henros with tired feet. If it where not for the weather, I would have made use of it.

A field of the colourful cosmos-flowers, not much colour in the background.

Osata-san will stay at the Fureai Park Mino, but I have an appointment at Iyadaniji. When Tomoyoshi Kubo and I parted ways at Tatsueji (on my fifth day), he gave me his business card and told me to call him when I arrived at temple 68, 69, 70 or 71. Yesterday, I gave him a call telling him that I would be at Iyadaniji at the end of my walk today. He would come and pick me up here, but first I want to take a quick look at the temple. Dusk is gathering through the rain when I climb up to the temple, with the sound of water all around me from the trees. From what I reach to see of the temple, it appear to be a wonderful temple. Then Tomoyoshi-san is calling, telling me he is waiting for me at the parking lot.

At Iyadaniji temple, visited the temple, but saved the temple rituals for tomorrow.

Walking down the staircase from Iyadaniji in the rain with the lamps lit.

It is really nice to meet Tomoyoshi-san again. From Iyadaniji he drives me to his regular spot, Tiaki (千明), treating me with a good dinner. It is quite funny, back home I did not eat sushi or sashimi, but now I have taken a liking to it. With the only limitation is that I can just eat the parts containing fish, and not anything else from the sea, being allergic. The owner of the place used to be a semi professional and university baseball player. After eating, we drive back to Tomoyoshi's house, where I finally can get a bath and change to dry clothes. Then we sit down talking, with some snacks and beer. I am humbled at his hospitality. It is a great ending of a rainy day.

Eating dinner together with Tomoyoshi-san.

I will sleep dry and well tonight, tomorrow the typhoon will hit for real.

<- AwaiMarugame ->

Shikoku Henro Michi // day 37 // Iyo Mishima - Awai

Shikoku 88 Temples Pilgrimage, day 37.
Temples: #65-66 (Sankakuji, Unpenji).
Distance: 31.3km (1076.3km), time spent: 10:58.
Weather: Nice at the beginning, some clouds later.

Ever since I heard of the possibility of sleeping at a temple, and that there also were free lodgings for henros at some, I had wanted to stay at the tsuyado at Unpenji. Not only is it the highest point on the pilgrimage (not counting detours like climbing Ishizuchisan), but Unpenji was said to be a beautiful and atmospheric temple, but also a bit creepy. Something to do with a collection of mysterious statues at the templegrounds. That is where I want to go today.

The sun is cresting the hill above the route up to Sankakuji.

I am away at quarter past six in the morning, this is the earliest I have begun my walk at so far. Early since there are no breakfast for me at the ryokan, meaning another combini breakfast instead. I stock up on food for lunch and dinner for later, and breakfast for tomorrow morning, I even add two beers and some snacks for the evening. Why not make your backpack heavier than usual when you are climbing to the highest part on the pilgrimage.

An old waymarkerstone points the way.

When I head up into the hills towards Sankakuji, having left Iyo Mishima, the sun has not yet fully crested the hills above me. The walking is serene, on a mixture of small worn paved roads and forested paths that makes noises when you tramp on them. Sometimes, sunrays breaks loose from the top of the hill, spreading light across the path. A distinct line separates the oncoming of the bright day. In between, I can look back at Iyo Mishima and the Seto inland sea.

Colours of the fall are starting to appear at Sankakuji.

At Sankakuji.

Sankakuji (Triangle Temple), temple #65, is a lovely temple. Here the shōrō (belltower) is located in the sanmon (templegate), as I enter the temple I walk underneath the bell, hoping no one is ringing it at the same time. A legend about this temple is that Kōbō Daishi vanquished a troublesome ghost here using the Goma fire ritual at the sankaku altar. The ghost then lived around the temple and the mountain that the temple is located at, Yureisan, which means Ghost Mountain. The leaves of the trees in and around the temple are heralding the coming of autumn.

Receiving osettai from a group of volunteers at Sankakuji.

A group of volunteers are setting up tents, tables, chairs and benches at the temple. To give osettai to the pilgrims that comes to worship, I arrive a little bit early for them to be finished with the arrangements, but I still get to sit down with some hot tea and biscuits. A group of schoolkids also arrives at the temple, where they will learn about the temples, the pilgrimage and to give osettai to the henros. And suddenly Osata-san shows up.

Terraced fields on the way between Sankakuji and Unpenji.

The staff at the temple, however, are not giving me good news. They tell me that the tsuyado at Unpenji is closed due to maintenance and therefore is unavailable. And I have been carrying all the food and snacks up here, all for nothing, and will have to carry it further. Not knowing entirely what to do, I get help to book a room at Minshuku Aozora, completely forgetting that I am still carrying my tent (at this point, I have gotten accustomed to not using it). Going there means, however, an even longer day and the munk tells me that it is about six hours from Sankakuji to Unpenji. I have to walk fast.

The Sano Trail.

One of the decisions I made before going on this pilgrimage, was to only visit the main temples and not the bekkaku temples. That is a decision I regret today, and a reason for why I might want to walk it again. I need to keep myself on a tight leash as not to start walking towards Senryūji (bekkaku #13) as I want to. It is not a bad walk from Sankakuji on the route I now must take, I actually enjoy walking on the quiet country road a little up in the hills. Past terraced ricefields, returning views of Iyo Mishima and the Seto inland sea, sunrays filtered through the trees. It is less interesting after coming down to a more busy road after bekkaku temple #14, Jōfukuji (Tsubaki-dō).

The daishido at Unpenji.

For a short time I am back in Tokushima prefecture again, a reminder that I am not very far from finishing the pilgrimage. Another decision that I make, which I later do not understand I took, was to choose the Sano Trail up towards Unpenji. The Manda Trail or even the Sakaime Trail seems a lot more interesting when I look back at the map in the guidebook. The Sano Trail is not really bad, but it does not offer any views, with the exception of a good view of the Tokushima expressway, which is not very interesting. Being henro-korogashi, the path is steep.

Gohyaku-Rakan statues at Unpenji, about 500 of these kind of creepy statues you will find at the temple.

I walk the final climb up to Unpenji, temple #66 and the Hovering Clouds Temple, together with another henro. Unpenji is an amazing temple and I fall in love with it almost instantly. The sunlight is wonderful when I am there, always playing with the sunrays through the trees. The hondo and the daishido is situated at different terraces, with a staircase lined up with stone lanterns between them. And then there are the statues. 500 of them it is said, called Gohyaku-Rakan, all with different composure and expressions. I can understand that they have a creepy feeling to them, as many of them has some frightful and fierce expressions. Walking between them at night would probably be an even creepier experience.

View from Unpenjisan, from the large statue at the top of the mountain.

Unpenji becomes the hovering clouds temple for real when a groundsman lights up a fire at the templegrounds, sending of clouds of smoke over the temple. For me, standing watching the sunrays filtered through both the trees and the smoke is magical. On the way up to the temple though, I was a little bit afraid that I might arrive at the top in clouds, as I could see them approaching on my way up. Hence, it was actually to the top of Unpenjisan at 927m that I first visited. Truthfully was some of the landscape below the top covered by the cloudy blanket. At the top is a huge statue standing on a pillar that you can climb up in to get a good view from.

Unpenji, The Hovering Clouds Temple.

A play of light through the trees.

At the templeoffice I learn that they have an emergency tsuyado while the original is under maintenance. Too late now, I feel that I must honour the booking that has been made at Minshuku Aozora. I still want to spend some time here at Unpenji, and I have food and snacks in my backpack. Not to forget the two cans of beer that I bought. Osata-san arrives at the temple and I invite him up to the statue for some food and drinks. He has to conduct his temple rituals first, so he joins me later at the top. Having carried the beers and food all the way up, I feel that I have earned having one beer at least. So, no beers for the Gohyaku-Rakan then. In return for the food I give Osata-san, he hands me a bottle of Match vitamin drink.

The pathway between the hondo and the daishido at Unpenji.

Osata-san tells me that he walked the Manda Trail and it had great views. He is staying at the same place as I do, but he will take the ropeway down from Unpenji and walk from there. No ropeway for me of course, I have to walk. It gives me a tighter timeframe, but it is certainly worth it. The walk down from Unpenji is wonderful, and far better than the walk up. Above me, the sky is changing colour to a red purple hue, at viewpoints giving me sorts of otherworldly views of the mountain, area below and sea behind. Only slightly marred for a very short while, as I worry that I have taken the wrong turn at a junction and walked towards Hagiwaraji, which would give me a rather long detour. No need to worry though. I have now entered the last prefecture of the walk, Kagawa, which is the Place of Nirvana or Nehan dōjō.

Having a beer with a view at Unpenji.

Not entirely on time, but not that bad either in my mind, I arrive at the minshuku at about quarter past five. It is located in a quiet countryside at the foot of Unpenjisan. Osata-san has of course already arrived. I try to apologize that I was a little bit late to the hosts, even got Osata-san to convey my apologies, but they appear not so worried about it. A nice and friendly place, serving good food.

View from the descent from Unpenji with an afterglow on the sky.

Dinner at Minshuku Aozora, Osata-san to the left.

I have learned that it will rain tomorrow, so in the end, I am not entirely unhappy about that I missed out on staying at Unpenji. Hopefull, Tadao-san (and the other henros) will be fine when he walks up to the temple and down tomorrow. Two great temple visits today, but Unpenji was easily one of my favourite temples on the pilgrimage so far.

<- Iyo MishimaIyadaniji ->

Shikoku Henro Michi // day 36 // Ishizuchi Jinja - Iyo Mishima

Shikoku 88 Temples Pilgrimage, day 36.
Temples: #64 (Maegamiji).
Distance: 40.6km (1045.0km), time spent: 10:21.
Weather: Clear blue sky.

I wake up to a sky bereft of clouds, there is not a single cloud in sight at all, only a clear blue sky. A part of me is strangely enough not happy with it, I feel rather angry that I did not get this weather when I climbed Ishizuchisan yesterday. It is just a temporary notion though, I have not forgotten that I really enjoyed the climb, clouds or not. The hotel breakfast is kind of tiny, so I have to upgrade it from a nearby combini. When walking long distances it is important to eat enough food, and I have a long distance ahead of me today. About 40km, the longest distance so far. Before I go though, I have to find a cash machine, but I only succeed in walking through a quiet town. At least, I got to see the paintings at the shutters of the small shops in the main arcade.

Arcade store shutter art in Saijō.

Having left the trail at Ishizuchi Jinja, meant yet another train ride. There is just a short walk from the still impressive toriis to the gate of the first and only temple of the day, Maegamiji. The Front God Temple is number 64 in the line and lies at the foot of Ishizuchisan. Maegamiji has long been associated with a Shinto god called Zaō Gongen, so the buildings of this temple are all built like a Shinto shrine. The hondo is wonderfully situated in a clearing in the forested hills around.

The huge red 1st Torii of Ishizuchi Jinja towards a clear blue sky.

A familiar face is suddenly appearing at the temple while I am looking at it. It is Naomi and I think we both are a little bit surprised to see each other again. I guess she has just been a day behind me, and with all my curiosity about she has caught up with me.

The 2nd Torii of Ishizuchi Jinja.

With the visit of Maegamiji behind me, I have nothing left but a long walk in front of me for the rest of the day. I cannot help looking in the direction of Ishizuchisan, and considering whether I should return to the mountain where Kōbō Daishi is said to have performed the Goma ritual and the Gomonjihō during his 21 days on the top. When I am nearing Saijō, this time by foot, another familiar face is walking next to the road, Osata-san. We walk together for a while, but as I have to stop at a 7/11 to withdraw the cash I tried to get earlier, he wants to continue walking. He expected that I would catch up with him, but I did not and I would actually not see him again this day.

The hondo of Maegamiji.

As I walk, the sight of the mountains towards the blue sky is the best part. Otherwise, I find today just to be another pleasant, but not too interesting walk. I pass by Hagyū-an, strangely enough not marked as an enclosed hut in the guidebook, but it is a zenkonyado that is run by an old lady who has done the pilgrimage in her earlier days. With the appearance of being in a garage, but it has places to sit down at and benches with tatami mats on for sleeping.

A Fudō Myōō statue in a small fountain at Maegamiji.

At almost half past twelve, being walking for about five hours, I find myself at Ikedaike Park. It is a great spot for lunch, and a combini just before the turnoff to the park made sure that I did not have to carry the food very far either. On the other side of the dam is a pavillion and a mowed lawn, maybe a better place to sit down at, but I still prefer to sit on this side where I can look up at the mountains from. There is a slight envy in the air of those that are climbing Ishizuchisan today.

A miniature shrine at the Kamogawa Bridge with a view of the mountains in the background.

I meet a woman who feels that she has to give me something as osettai. Not finding anything but her half-empty bag of Werther's Original to give me, she makes a lot of apologies. I try as good as I can to reassure her that it is more than sufficient, it is the thought that matters for me.

At Ikedaike Park.

A couple of kilometres before I get to another one of the few bekkaku temples that is situated directly on the trail, Enmeiji, I meet Tadao-san. We walk together from that point on, taking a break at Enmeiji. In the templegrounds there is the remains of a pine tree where Kūkai found a troubled person and prayed. The trunk is called Izari Matsu. Tadao-san shares some coffee from a wending machine with me, before we move on.

Passing by an amusing installation, not knowing entirely what it is meant to be.

If it were not for Tadao-san, the walk of today would have been forgettable. It has been rather boring, but walking together with another henro thankfully takes my mind away from it. We reach Iyo Mishima and the Cosmos henro hut as the sun has passed away on the ceiling above. It has been a long day for both of us, and we are both happy to arrive at our accommodations. He stays at the Hotel Live Max, while I got a room at Ryokan Tsuru-ya.

The remains of the Izari Matsu treetrunk at Enmeiji.

We agreed to meet up later to find a place to eat. So after the traditional bath at my ryokan and doing the laundry of my clothes, I walk across the street to the hotel Tadao-san is staying at. He has got a good advice on a place to eat, so we go in search of an izakaya that at first appear a little bit difficult to find. The place is called Hego. It has a lot more modern look than what I associate with and is used to when it comes to a Japanese pub. The food is quite delicious and we eat plenty of it. And again it is this Japanese generosity, Tadao-san insists on paying for the dinner. Sometimes I wonder how I can return the favour so to speak.

Dinner with Tadao-san at Hego in Iyo Mishima.

A stroke of luck it was to meet Tadao-san, it made this day. He was a great company. Tomorrow, I will depart for a destination longer away than his however. He will walk to Minshuku Okada at the foot of the climb up to Unpenji, which is the highest point on the pilgrimage, I have the highest point in mind.

<- Ishizuchi JinjaAwai ->

Shikoku Henro Michi // day 35 // Hōjuji - Ishizuchi Jinja

Shikoku 88 Temples Pilgrimage, day 35.
Temples: #62-63 (Hōjuji, Kichijōji).
Distance: 5.4km (1004.4km), time spent: 2:00.
Weather: Nice and clear.

I arrived back in Saijō in such a good time that I may be able to walk a little bit further on the pilgrimage. If I would make it all the way to Saijō from Hōjuji, it would be great, but that is way too optimistic I reckon. More likely, I would maybe be able to visit temple #64, Maegamiji, whose okunoin I actually walked past on the climb of Ishizuchisan.

At temple #62, Hōjuji.

From Saijō train station, I take the JR Yosan Line back to Iyo Komatsu, along with a lot of junior high school students (I think). Some of them eyeing me a little bit suspiciously. I must confess that just sitting on the train, watching the landscape flow by and listen to the sounds the train makes, feels quite relaxing after the Ishizuchisan climb. The fact that Hōjuji lies right next to the train station and so is making it easy getting back to where I let off yesterday, was one of the reason why I choose to do this.

A tiny Kōbō Daishi statue at Kichijōji.

This time when I come to Hōjuji, temple #62 (The Temple of Wealth and Happiness), the gates to the temple are open. It is also a small, compact and modest temple, quite neat in a way. Outside the gates stands the oldest stone monument on the Shikoku pilgrimage. The people at the templeoffice are all smiles and happiness when I arrive, by the looks on their faces it appears that they are having a cheerful day. Their smiles are contagious.

At temple #63, Kichijōji, with its huge tree, stone with a hole and voluntary workers.

It is strange now to be walking underneath an almost clear sky, given the clouds up in the mountain earlier. I believe that I must have been misunderstood yesterday when I asked some people about the weather for today, and that instead of giving me the weather forecast for Ishizuchisan, they gave me the forecast for Saijō and surrounding areas. It is a short walk to the next temple, Kichijōji, which is temple #63 (The Temple of Mahasri/Laksmi). Here, some few people are busy gardening, tidying up and maintaining the temple, all with a nature of being voluntary work. It is quite nice to see that the local people are taking care of their local temples.

Sunset when walking towards Ishizuchi Jinja and Maegamiji, illuminating a plastic fense.

Set aside the normal ornamented buildings and the usual nice statues, the most prominent feature of the temple is the huge tree in its courtyard. I do not make an attempt to walk through the templegrounds with my eyes closed, trying to putting my staff through a rock with a round hole in its middle. It is said that you will get your wish granted if you succeed in doing so. I do not carry the kongōzue, so no luck there.

The huge 1st Torii of Ishizuchi Jinja.

Gate to Ishizuchi Jinja.

When walking towards Maegamiji, I decide to take it slow. After all, I have a climb of Ishizuchisan behind me today, and my legs feel that they have been in use. Shibanoi is a small shrine, okunoin to Kichijōji, and where you also find a source of the spring water in Saijō, Uchinuki. Regarded as one of the 100 best waters in Japan. The sun is slowly setting while I make my way.

Lantern illuminating a wall of prayers.

In the dusk I reach Ishizuchi Jinja, that is, I stop dead looking transfixed at those huge and amazing toriis. Standing taller than the buildings next to them. When I am travelling abroad, my name is always difficult to pronounce for those I meet, Tarjei. Now, I have decided to address myself with the same name as these wonderful gates, torii. The pronounciation of torii, as I have heard it, is not so very far away from how you pronounce my name. I have also decided I will not go any further today, I leave Maegamiji for tomorrow, only making a visit to Ishizuchi Jinja before I take the train back to Saijō. Having climbed Ishizuchisan today, it feels proper to end the walk here.

A line of lanterns on the alley through Ishizuchi Jinja.

Lantern in the dusk.

With the lanterns and lamps illuminated in the twilight, it is an atmospheric visit to the huge shrine. Covered by trees, an alley of prayerstones dimly illuminated by the lanterns leads me into the heart of the shrine, taking me up to the buildings located on a terrace with views over the area. A small group of visitors are chanting in unison at the main building of the shrine. I stand still for a while, listening to their chanting, then I head out and down to the train station. Properly named Ishizuchiyama.

Udon and beer at 36 izakaya in Saijō.

Back in Saijō (again), after getting into my evening dress, I go back to the izakaya I went to yesterday, 36. I was so satisfied with the food, that I do not bother going any other places today. It tastes just as good today as it did yesterday. The beer to, today I feel that I have earned it. According to my calculations, my feet has now taken me over 1000km. And, although having made some minor mistakes, I feel that they have done a good job.

<- IshizuchisanIyo Mishima ->