Temples: #62-63 (Hōjuji, Kichijōji).
Distance: 5.4km (1004.4km), time spent: 2:00.
Weather: Nice and clear.
I arrived back in Saijō in such a good time that I may be able to walk a little bit further on the pilgrimage. If I would make it all the way to Saijō from Hōjuji, it would be great, but that is way too optimistic I reckon. More likely, I would maybe be able to visit temple #64, Maegamiji, whose okunoin I actually walked past on the climb of Ishizuchisan.
At temple #62, Hōjuji.
From Saijō train station, I take the JR Yosan Line back to Iyo Komatsu, along with a lot of junior high school students (I think). Some of them eyeing me a little bit suspiciously. I must confess that just sitting on the train, watching the landscape flow by and listen to the sounds the train makes, feels quite relaxing after the Ishizuchisan climb. The fact that Hōjuji lies right next to the train station and so is making it easy getting back to where I let off yesterday, was one of the reason why I choose to do this.
A tiny Kōbō Daishi statue at Kichijōji.
This time when I come to Hōjuji, temple #62 (The Temple of Wealth and Happiness), the gates to the temple are open. It is also a small, compact and modest temple, quite neat in a way. Outside the gates stands the oldest stone monument on the Shikoku pilgrimage. The people at the templeoffice are all smiles and happiness when I arrive, by the looks on their faces it appears that they are having a cheerful day. Their smiles are contagious.
At temple #63, Kichijōji, with its huge tree, stone with a hole and voluntary workers.
It is strange now to be walking underneath an almost clear sky, given the clouds up in the mountain earlier. I believe that I must have been misunderstood yesterday when I asked some people about the weather for today, and that instead of giving me the weather forecast for Ishizuchisan, they gave me the forecast for Saijō and surrounding areas. It is a short walk to the next temple, Kichijōji, which is temple #63 (The Temple of Mahasri/Laksmi). Here, some few people are busy gardening, tidying up and maintaining the temple, all with a nature of being voluntary work. It is quite nice to see that the local people are taking care of their local temples.
Sunset when walking towards Ishizuchi Jinja and Maegamiji, illuminating a plastic fense.
Set aside the normal ornamented buildings and the usual nice statues, the most prominent feature of the temple is the huge tree in its courtyard. I do not make an attempt to walk through the templegrounds with my eyes closed, trying to putting my staff through a rock with a round hole in its middle. It is said that you will get your wish granted if you succeed in doing so. I do not carry the kongōzue, so no luck there.
The huge 1st Torii of Ishizuchi Jinja.
Gate to Ishizuchi Jinja.
When walking towards Maegamiji, I decide to take it slow. After all, I have a climb of Ishizuchisan behind me today, and my legs feel that they have been in use. Shibanoi is a small shrine, okunoin to Kichijōji, and where you also find a source of the spring water in Saijō, Uchinuki. Regarded as one of the 100 best waters in Japan. The sun is slowly setting while I make my way.
Lantern illuminating a wall of prayers.
In the dusk I reach Ishizuchi Jinja, that is, I stop dead looking transfixed at those huge and amazing toriis. Standing taller than the buildings next to them. When I am travelling abroad, my name is always difficult to pronounce for those I meet, Tarjei. Now, I have decided to address myself with the same name as these wonderful gates, torii. The pronounciation of torii, as I have heard it, is not so very far away from how you pronounce my name. I have also decided I will not go any further today, I leave Maegamiji for tomorrow, only making a visit to Ishizuchi Jinja before I take the train back to Saijō. Having climbed Ishizuchisan today, it feels proper to end the walk here.
A line of lanterns on the alley through Ishizuchi Jinja.
Lantern in the dusk.
With the lanterns and lamps illuminated in the twilight, it is an atmospheric visit to the huge shrine. Covered by trees, an alley of prayerstones dimly illuminated by the lanterns leads me into the heart of the shrine, taking me up to the buildings located on a terrace with views over the area. A small group of visitors are chanting in unison at the main building of the shrine. I stand still for a while, listening to their chanting, then I head out and down to the train station. Properly named Ishizuchiyama.
Udon and beer at 36 izakaya in Saijō.
Back in Saijō (again), after getting into my evening dress, I go back to the izakaya I went to yesterday, 36. I was so satisfied with the food, that I do not bother going any other places today. It tastes just as good today as it did yesterday. The beer to, today I feel that I have earned it. According to my calculations, my feet has now taken me over 1000km. And, although having made some minor mistakes, I feel that they have done a good job.
<- IshizuchisanIyo Mishima ->
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