Camino Francés // day 7 // Torres del Rio - Logrono

Camino Frances day 7.
Distance: 20.3km (163.6km).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 460m / 380m / 570m.
Weather: Wonderful.

Now I have been a week on the Camino and has arrived in Logrono. If I were to summarize up this day with one word, it would be churches. Which is not, as you can say, unexpected at all, it is after all originally a religious walk. The Camino today was quite similar to the previous days, we first entered La Rioja just before Logrono, but there were still plenty of vineyards along the route.

The lights from Torres del Rio in the morning, in the background you can see the heights of Monjardin to the left and Montejurra to the right.

Only the lights from Torres del Rio were visible in the morning when we continued walking, we had eaten breakfast in another albergue and started walking in the dark expecting another nice sunrise. The Way started by climbing up to the Ermita de Nuestra Señora del Poyo. Since the Camino often goes on good natural paths, there are usually no problems to walk in the dark, and no need to be afraid of getting lost.

Camino-ruins near the trail, now the home of a pinecone-animal.

Over Spain, the sun rose red and fierce, it was a quiet serenade around the hermitage. When the Camino left Alto Nuestra Señora del Poyo, it went relatively steep down to the Rio Cornava, at that time, the light was regained and the vineyards had emerged from the darkness. Still I passed by ruins of lost buildings not far from the route. I made another pinecone-animal, which I left behind outside the collapsed remains of a house, a guardian of the lost times.

The front of the Iglesia de Santa Maria church in Viana.

Between Torres del Rio and Logrono, Viana is the only place of a significant size that you pass through, I could see the houses of the town for a good time before I arrived. Not a large town, but with enough to see for the pilgrims choosing to spend the evening and night there. Shortly after the streets had embraced me, I came to the impressive front of the Iglesia de Santa Maria church. Cesare Borgia was originally buried inside the church after he was killed nearby.

The ruins of the San Pedro church in Viana.

It was however the San Pedro church that received my biggest attention and fascination, that is, the ruins of the church. Empty archways, a church missing its walls, a glass painting in pieces, lost parts of murals and confetti on the floor. Ruins has always fascinated me. I left pleasant Viana after a short stay in the town, with the vineyards awaiting me again.

After Viana, it was less exciting; I was getting closer to Logrono in the horizon, with the open wounds of San Pedro observing me from the top of the town. At Ermita de la Trinidad de Cuevas, a larger group of gypsies had made their camp.

Viana. The ruins of San Pedro clearly visible at the top of the town, with the hole in the church as a focal point.

Just before Logrono, the Camino passes by Pantano Cañas, a bird reservoir. In a small building, I could look at the birds (if you see one) through binoculars, and read about the reservoir. There were also some paths going down to the reservoir, where there were guided pathways you were allowed to walk on.

Pantano Cañas, a bird reservoir the trail passes by before Logrono.

The entrance to Logrono had a nicer approach than Pamplona, even though the city is one of the largest on the Camino. I walked past the hacienda of Doña Feliza; where rumours has it that if you do not get a pilgrim-stamp there, you will not have done a proper pilgrimage. In addition to the mandatory stamp, I granted myself a cold can of coke. I saw Torsten's water bottle left behind on a rock next to the route.

Doña Feliza providing pilgrim-stamps and refreshments before Logrono.

To get to the centre of the city, you cross the bridge Puente de Piedra over Rio Ebro. Logrono is also a popular place to start the Camino from, due to the size, so there will be more pilgrims from now on. I still had not problems getting a bed in the public albergue here. I was also granted good time to explore the city. Benito, who had spent longer time on the walk, due to his knees, told us that he had barely got a place for the night in an albergue in the outskirts of the city.

Catedral de Santa Maria de la Redonda in Logrono.

What the city is famous for is its tapas, where they are served in the proper tapas way. With its own streets, where you go from place to place and eat a piece of tapas together with a small drink at each place. I had looked forward to this, but the rest of the group was tired and wanted to sit down while they ate.

Inside the cathedral of Logrono.

The cathedral, Catedral de Santa Maria de la Redonda, in the city was great. You do feel a little bit compelled to visit the religious buildings when you are on a pilgrimage, though in a positive way. Religious or not, the buildings are impressive.

After a week on the Camino, I have now became accustomed with the routines, by secure a bed for the night and wash my clothes when it is needed before I can relax and look at the place I am in. Another nice day, with Logrono the most exciting memory for later.

Dinner in Logrono, from left Pauline, Derek, Christel and Benito.

<- Torres del RioNajera ->

Camino Francés // day 6 // Ayegui - Torres del Rio

Camino Frances day 6.
Distance: 27.4km (143.3km).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 485m / 460m / 910m.
Weather: Changing between slightly overcast and nice.

Even though looking back at yesterday was nice, I did not sleep that well during the night. The reason was what maybe is the biggest problem on the Camino, except blisters for someone, snoring fellow pilgrims. The sideman next to me, who by the way seemed nice, made a great foghorn in the night.

Monasterio de Irache in the twilight.

This was my sixth day on the Camino and also the longest so far, though it was not that longer than the first day. I walked to the small village of Torres del Rio after as said a long and dry day through the bleak landscape of Navarre. The walk in itself was almost magnificent, even though I had to take a detour off from the Camino to make it so.

On the road to Monjardin, which towers in the background with the ruins of Castillo de San Esteban on the top.

And it all began in the dark as usual. I took a small sip of wine from Fuente de Vino (Bodegas Irache) on the way for fun. I arrived at the Benedictine monastery in the twilight; in the dawning light, the buildings of the monastery seemed dark and sombre. That feeling however disappeared quickly when I walked below the mountainsides of Montejurra, when the light had returned to the world. In the horizon, I could see the top (Monjardin) above Villamayor de Monjardin, with the ruins of Castillo de San Esteban distinct against the background.

Sunlight over Montejurra, between Azqueta and Villamayor de Monjardin.

From the time the light begun to brighten up the landscape, it was a delightful walk towards Villamayor de Monjardin. The Camino went on good natural paths and eventually the red and warm globe appeared above Montejurra. I passed through a cozy tiny village, Azqueta, where I later heard that Torsten had been served milk from one of the villagers who also had his own pilgrim's stamp. Before Monjardin, the Camino went between red acres and vineyards in an undulating landscape; the church spire of the village was visible peeking up from the fields.

The church spire of San Andres in Villamayor de Monjardin peeking up from the red acres before the village.

Villamayor de Monjardin has everything that is needed for a pleasant stay in a small village, but when I arrived, it was quiet and calm there. Some few other pilgrims looked up, said 'buen Camino' and walked on. Above the village, on the top of Monjardin, is the ruins of Castillo de San Esteban. And my feet was itching to get up there to look at them. Daniel was sitting and resting in the village when I arrived and answered in a pragmatic way 'if you want to go, then go' when I mentioned that I wanted to climb up there.

View down towards Villamayor de Monjardin and in the direction the Camino follows from Monjardin and the ruins of Castillo de San Esteban.

I went up. From the top of Monjardin, the view was formidable view and the light was extraordinary. In the direction that I had come from, lay the landscape bathed in a pale light, as if the light went through a veil. Below me, lay the village from where I could follow the pilgrims walking into the scorched landscape in the horizon. The castle itself was situated at the top of some cliffs, a small staircase led up to a gate that unfortunately was locked. There was no possibility to get into the ruins to see them more closely. I followed the gravel track down again, instead of the small path through the bush that I climbed up on.

Excellent view from Monjardin and Castillo de San Esteban.

Down in the village again I wanted to have something to eat, but when the owner of the café in a sour manner snapped at me that I could not put my backpack where I had left it, I let it be. Not so wise given that it was 12km to the next place, Los Arcos, and the route passes by remote vineyards and an open landscape without shade and water sources. The walk was cool though, where I went among scattered pilgrims. Around the Camino, there was remains of old buildings and houses, on hilltops there were old churches. Someone had written 'Buen Camino' with stones on the gravel track you walk on. How the landscape has changed since the Pyrenees.

Remains of an old house with a church on a hilltop in the background, between Villamayor de Monjardin and Los Arcos.

In the outskirts of Los Arcos, I met Claire, Benito, John and Christoph at a small bar that did not have any food. Benito had some small troubles with his knees. My stay in the town did no become long, though I should have visited the church, Iglesia de Santa Maria de los Arcos. I continued walking instead, having just ate a very quick and small meat in Los Arcos.

In Los Arcos, the church of Iglesia de Santa Maria de los Arcos.

I thought that Torsten and Emma was far ahead of me, but I caught up with them and Christel shortly after leaving Los Arcos. The following walk felt very long, I was quite tired when we arrived the pleasant village Sansol. From a terrace, we could look down upon Torres del Rio. We had to cross Rio Linares before arriving. It was long day for me.

Torres del Rio seen from Sansol.

In Torres del Rio we found a nice albergue, Derek and Nathalie was also there. It was not a very large village, but it was very nice there. The Knights Templars apparently was of the same opinion and had left behind traces of them, the Iglesia de Santo Sepulcro church was supposed to be proof of that. When I sat and relaxed in the albergue I saw that my visit to the Castillo de San Esteban had resulted in an unpleasant acquaintance, a tick had bitten itself to one of my thighs. Emma got the annoying bug removed.

The albergue in Torres del Rio, Torsten sits outside and waits.

Saturday evening in the village was interesting, but unfortunately for me I was way too tired to take part of it for too long. They made a small disco in a small bar, while they played tango (Nathalie was an eager dancer). Video karaoke was screened on a television set, where a small group of Koreans had gathered in front of it and dancing.

A wonderful day.

<- AyeguiLogrono ->

Camino Francés // day 5 // Puente la Reina - Ayegui

Camino Frances day 5.
Distance: 24.8km (115.9km).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 350m / 485m / 505m.
Weather: Nice, thunder nearby in the evening.

It has now almost become a daily routine to get up early, however it does not feel much of a problem. The reason is simple. I am now looking so much forward to each day and what I will experience during the day that my motivation is high. From Puente la Reina it is usual that the next stage is going to Estella, but what I had in mind was a more unusual place, which was Ayegui. I tried to convince the rest of the group to join me in going there; in that way, I had a small ace up my sleeve.

In the morning after Puente la Reina.

When we left the albergue, the sun had ever so slowly begun to announce its arrival on the sky, there was a lovely colour breaking the darkness above Puente la Reina. I have as well begun to enjoy these wee hours in the morning when walking, I do not want to begin too early, but enjoy starting in the dark just before it begin to brighten and so see the landscape slowly reveal itself around me.

We are getting nearer to Cirauqui; notice the church at the top of the village.

Between Puente la Reina and Estella, the Camino went mostly on gravel tracks, with a surplus of dry and barren fields around, only a small part of the walk went on road. Still, there was some walking next to a highway, as well as underneath large concrete structures that housed both the highway and an aqueduct. Not so exciting a walk as yesterday, but still pleasant enough.

In Cirauqui, small and narrow streets with houses adorned with ornaments and flowers.

The most pleasant surprise of the day came when Emma appeared after my first pinecone animal on the Camino saw the light of the day. She had yesterday felt better and had eventually walked to Obanos (the last place before Puente la Reina).

The San Miguel church outside Villatuerta.

We had lunch in Cirauqui, a pleasant small village with narrow streets situated on the top of a small hill, where it was confusing trying to find the way. I walked up to the top of the village, where two churches are guarding over Cirauqui, with a view of the area around.

Grooving with the yellow arrows. The characteristic yellow arrow visited by a street artist.

Estella is a pretty obvious place to stay at on the Camino, the town houses around 14 000 inhabitants and is by that large enough to entertain the pilgrims resting there after the days' walk. The medieval bridge, Puente de Carcel, which goes over the river Ega to the old town, is a well-known landmark on the route. The town contains enough places to eat, bars and accommodations for pilgrims, together with museums and churches. The Basque name of the town is Lizarra.

In Estella, the church of El Santo Sepulcro.

The official albergue in Estella however, did not have the same good reputation as the place itself, but that was not the reason why I wanted to go further to Ayegui. I did not know much about the albergue there either; Ayegui itself is just a very short walk away from Estella and is more of a sleepy suburb for a city. When we arrive at the albergue, we meet Jon who immediately exclaims 'guys, you're not going to believe this'. And correctly enough, the albergue is located in the ground floor of a sports hall, or more correctly one of the usual pelota-courts here. An unusual place for a pilgrims hospital, me like.

The pelota court in the albergue in Ayegui.

The ace, which I however had in my sleeves, was Bodegas Irache. A short walk away from Ayegui you find this wine producer and they have a free wine fountain outside. Instead of quickly walking by tomorrow morning, I thought it would be more fun and enjoyable to meet outside of it in the afternoon. So, after having done our daily routines and rested for a while, we are a small group that goes visiting, Emma, Michael, Jon, Avril, Torsten, Christel and me.

The wine fountain at Bodegas Irache, Michael and Torsten.

Dark clouds had gathered in the horizon when we arrived, but they left us alone. And free wine it was. Not flowing free though, you had to work to pump out what you wanted (reasonably enough). Some local men came also in a car and had brought with them empty bottles to fill. They were somewhat rude, but they were chased away by a guard shortly after they arrived. We were allowed to be there. I also got to look at the nearby Monasterio de Irache, a Benedictine monastery with thunderclouds in the background.

The Benedictine monastery of Monasterio de Irache.

The pelota-albergue did also serve food, so we got our menu del peregrino while local heroes played pelota below. Afterwards, outside, there was a tiny trace of rain in the air and dull rumblings from the thunder not far away. The evening in Ayegui and at the wine fountain was the definitive highlights of the day when the walk of the day was pleasant enough, but not anything more.

The sun breaking through the clouds at Bodegas Irache.

<- Puente la ReinaTorres del Rio ->

Camino Francés // day 4 // Pamplona - Puente la Reina

Camino Frances day 4.
Distance: 23.5km (91.1km).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 420m / 350m / 790m.
Weather: Some clouds in the morning, otherwise clear blue sky.

Originally, I had planned for a zero day today, so to see more of Pamplona. During yesterday, that thought was instead changed to be walking to Cizur Menor today. Before I had gone to bed, that plan was again changed to wake up early in the morning and go to Puente la Reina instead, since it was there that I counted that Torsten, Emma and the others would go to today.

Early in the morning in Pamplona, I was walking almost alone through the dark streets of the city only illuminated by the streetlights.

And early up in the morning I was, I was out of the doors of the albergue at quarter to seven in the morning. The streets of Pamplona was empty and almost dark. Only the quiet street lamps provided some light while I was walking. Still, there were a couple of cafés that were open for the early birds and I bought with me some breakfast from one of them that I put into my backpack. I enjoyed walking almost alone in the empty streets past majestic buildings, parks and the star-shaped castle in the city, Ciudadela.

Sunrise from Cizur Menor.

In Cizur Menor, I sat down on the wall of the church, Iglesia de San Miguel Arcángel, and ate the breakfast that I had brought with me while I enjoyed the sunrise. Which was amazing, it rose above Pamplona and coloured the heaven red. It was a fantastic moment. Below me, I could see both Signe and Daniel walking by.

In the outskirts of Cizur Menor, with a view towards Sierra del Perdon, which was shrouded by clouds in the morning.

To my great joy, I caught up with Torsten shortly after having left Cizur Menor, he must have left the albergue he was staying in while I sat and enjoyed the sunrise from the church. Unfortunately, I got to hear at the same time that Emma had become sick and stayed behind in the small village, she had felt unwell after the dinner the evening before.

On the way to Alto del Perdon and near Guenduláin, the Camino passes by this peaceful pond.

After Cizur Menor, the Camino went through a nice culture landscape up towards Alto del Perdon. Where we went, the forces of Charlemagne had conquered the Muslim army of Aigolando. There are more peaceful times here in these times, even though the cross and memorial over the Belgian pilgrim Koks Frans gave other associations. Amongst the fields around us, we passed a peaceful small pond, the ruins of a medieval palace, church and pilgrim hospital (Guenduláin), and small hamlets beneath the shadows of the windmill-park at Sierra del Perdon.

The ruins of the Guenduláin palace, with a church and former pilgrim hospital.

On the Camino there are a great deal of monuments and places that you look forward to getting to. At Alto del Perdon (790m) stands one of them, a monument for the pilgrims toiling over the ridge, a series of medieval pilgrim statues in bronze. On the bronze pilgrims it is written in Spanish 'Donde se cruza el camino del viento con el de las estrellas' - Where the way of the wind crosses the way of the stars. The view from the top of the pass is wonderful.

The pilgrim-monument at Alto del Perdon.

From the height of forgiveness, the Camino descends on a rough and uneven surface and takes you past the small villages of Uterga, Muruzabal and Obanos before arriving at Puente la Reina. It got hotter and hotter the closer we got to the walking goal of the day; we had to stop for refreshments in Muruzabal. While we walked in the dry landscape, a Brazilian man came running past us, he had set out to run the whole Camino in only five days. The record is apparently eight days; he has to run about 160km a day to reach his goal.

View next to a signpost at Alto del Perdon in the direction of the Camino.

Puente la Reina takes its name from the Roman bridge crossing Rio Arga, the same river we crossed yesterday on the way to Pamplona. The river has increased in size since the last time I saw it. The bridge was built by the demand of Doña Mayor, wife of King Sancho III, and got its name because of it, The Queen's Bridge. Six arches was supposed to secure the pilgrims walk across the river.

After Alto del Perdon, parts of the Camino went past a scrubland before Uterga.

The small town is pleasant, but we walked straight through it to the albergue we had agreed to stay the night at, Albergue Santiago Apostol. A large and yellow building, which looked like it was partly still under construction, situated on a barren plain just outside the bridge and town. It was blazing hot and we sat in the shade outside and relaxed after the walk. Our group had now become extended to include Claire from Australia, as well as Michael and Avril from Ireland. Michael and Avril was just walking a part of the Camino and were otherwise in Spain for the food festival in San Sebastian.

Puente la Reina with its famous medieval bridge.

The afternoon and evening in Puente la Reina got moist, and it all probably started while we sat and relaxed outside the albergue. Later, we moved into the centre of the town and ate dinner at a local restaurant. Natalie, however, chose to eat at the albergue. Torsten and I got on well with Michael and Avril, so when the rest of the group decided to return to the albergue, we stayed behind at a small bar. Back at the albergue, we continued next to the pool table at the place. Though, in the end, I had to succumb to my tiredness.

It was a super day on the Camino. To walk through the dark streets of Pamplona in the morning, the sunrise from Cizur Menor, Alto del Perdon and the evening in Puente la Reina were all highlights.

Dinner in Puente la Reina. From left: me, Christoph, Christel, Daniel, Signe, Claire, Torsten and Avril (Michael took the picture and unfortunately does not appear on the picture).

<- PamplonaAyegui ->

Camino Francés // day 3 // Larrasoana - Pamplona

Camino Frances day 3.
Distance: 15.2km (67.6km).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 498m / 420m / 534m.
Weather: Sunny and clear blue sky.

The third day on the Camino became a small letdown compared to the two previous days. My expectations might have been too high, but there is something of a known fact that the walks into the larger cities on the Camino are boring. I had put Pamplona as the target on the map for today, though the distance there felt too short, but I wanted to see something of the city where the bulls runs the streets.

Early in the morning in Larrasoana.

Yet again, we arose early and it was dark outside when began walking. Both Torsten and I had forgotten to arrange breakfast for ourselves today. Emma however, had been clever to take care for it yesterday. She kindly gave something of her food to us two unexperienced pilgrims, which we ate down by the riverside of Rio Arga. We went together afterwards.

The first part after Larrasoana went through the forest alongside the river Rio Arga.

The first part of today's walk was nice, but not very exciting. The section just after Larrasoana was perhaps the most pleasant, a small forest track alongside the river. Afterwards, the trail alternated between going on a road and small roads on each side of Rio Arga. Some nice hamlets, otherwise little of interest. Before we got closer to the suburbs of Pamplona, we crossed over a small hill, the walk went next to a highway and was very little inspiring. I had hoped that the Camino went higher up in the hill closer to the nature, but had to see that hope dwindle.

A family had made a small café in their own private backyard. Emma, Torsten, Derek and Benito are sitting at the table.

In a small hamlet, there was a small gathering of pilgrims in a small backyard where a family had made their own little café for the walkers. We met again Derek (Canada) and Benito (Mexico) that we had become familiar with in Larrasoana yesterday. I ate an apple pie together with orange juice and tea.

Emma and Torsten in Irotz.

The walk into Pamplona itself begin always immediately after crossing Puente de Arre, we looked at the Convento de la Trinidad basilica before we began walking between the houses of the suburbs. The walk was pleasant enough, passing by some nice buildings. A café we pass by is aptly named Km 714, a subtle reminder of how far we have left to go.

Spain can be dry, a warning sign about forest fire danger. Which is also nice to use as a waymarker for the Camino.

When we arrived in Pamplona, it got clear that the group split up; both Emma and Torsten wanted to keep on walking to Cizur Menor, a small place another five kilometres away. They continued walking together with some of the other pilgrims we had med, Natalie amongst others. I still chose to stay behind, though it was a tough choice.

Puente de Arre. The building to the right is next to the Convento de la Trinidad basilica that also houses one albergue.

Both Signe and Christel was however still in Pamplona and we all got a bunk in the quite modern albergue in the city, Albergue Jesus y Maria. They were however tired after the first days and I ended up looking at the city and eating dinner alone. In that way, the city's many tapas places was great, I could sit and watch the crowd while I relaxed with good tapas and a cold beer.

Some of the houses in Burlada had some elaborate ornaments, while parts of a wallpainting was about to disappear.

Some company I still got later in the afternoon, in Signe and Daniel (also from Denmark). We walked the streets, in a bustling crowd. In some streets, young people were sitting down on the ground outside the bars and drinking.

Walking through the streets of Pamplona.

I ended the day at a bar lying at the top of the city walls. In the vicinity around, I could see the lights from the houses and suburbs. Further behind, the contours of hills and small mountains. And somewhere was Cizur Menor, where the rest of the group now was located. I did regret it a little bit that I chose to stay, though it was nice here in Pamplona. For some reason, I never did manage to find the famous statue with the running bulls.

Casa Consistorial, the town hall of Pamplona.

The walk from Larrasoana to Pamplona was not the most exciting and appeared not so much as something other than a mere transport leg.

View from the city walls of Pamplona in the evening.

<- LarrasoanaPuente la Reina ->