Shikoku Henro Michi // day 44 // Sanbonmatsu - Ryōzenji

Shikoku 88 Temples Pilgrimage, day 44.
Temples: #1 (Ryōzenji).
Distance: 30.2km (1272.0km), time spent: 8:27.
Weather: Nice.

With so many thoughts that goes through ones mind at the end of such a journey, I sometimes find it hard to sleep on the last night, but I slept well. I also feared that I would wake up with a hangover this morning after yesterday evening, but I felt strangely fine when I woke up. It is a fine day as I set forth on the final walk of the pilgrimage, retracing my steps back to where I left the trail yesterday.

Walking next to fields of cosmos flowers are always nice.

The first part of the day is quite uneventful, with the small exception of when I go up into a hill trying to find the Tanokuchi Yakushi shrine, only to find a cemetery. It is overgrown and lost, with fallen trees lying over the tombstones and statues. Then I believe I did not find Tanokuchi Yakushi at all, following waymarks that disappears and leaves me behind in a bewildered state as to where I am. I do not find any path further, or shrine, returning back to the last junction. Uneventful, but not bad. Walking through this calm rural part of the island.

Morning sunrays through the trees.

It does feel somewhat different now, now that I know I am not walking towards any more temples. Of course, I am walking towards Ryōzenji, but since I have already visited that temple, it does not feel the same. Maybe a sort of walking with your purpose resolved. Upon arriving in Hiketa, I decide to check out the antique streets of this seaside town. Here, the walls of the old and traditional soy sauce warehouses are painted red. It would have been a good place to stay, if I had not taken the route through Mizushi Sanzan and Sanbonmatsu (another route bypasses it and goes more directly towards Hiketa).

May or may not be the Tanokuchi Yakushi shrine.

For the final time I walk next to the sea, happy to see the blue color of the water until I will pass over the mountains to Tokushima. One thing I have not written about on my walk around Shikoku so far, is the slightly amusing lotteries the various combinis has had during my time here. With the exception of a few times, I seem to have 'won' something every time (I do guess that the possibility of winning is quite high). The list is quite long, I have won two green teas, a Wonda black coffee, banana and prune biscuits, two vitamin drinks, a large box of instant spaghetti, and more. And here at a 7/11 for my usual latte, I win a spray bottle of pleasure bouquet. I am not sure what I am gonna use that for though, and it weighs a little too, so I give it to the lady behind the counter.

A red painted soy sauce warehouse in Hiketa.

Those who has chosen this way back to Ryōzenji may have believed that it may be a relatively easy walk, but that is not entirely true. From the sea, the route takes to the mountains again up towards the Ōsakatōge-pass. That should be an indication in itself, as ōsaka apparently translates to a large hill. Steep or not, I find it to be another exciting walk. After a lot of meandering through enclosed trees, with views of the forested valleys below and the sea, I arrive at the top of the path. On the way to the top, I had woken up not just one, but three large black snakes from their drowsing in the middle of the path.

The lucky winner of a spray bottle of pleasure bouquet at a 7/11 outside Hiketa.

At the Ōsakatōge-pass, a short detour brings me up to the highest point, where there is a hut and great views of the sea, mountains around and area below with its villages. A good place for the first lunch of the day. Just before I leave, a granddaddy with his granddaughter arrives at the hut. Looking at the map, I can see that the Takamatsu Expressway is going in a tunnel directly underneath the point I am standing at, I wonder how many cars are driving by below my feet while I am standing here.

A view of the sea at the mouth of the Umayado river.

The final decision as to which route to take to Ryōzenji, comes when I am down on a road after the pass. One option goes from here down to Konsenji (#3), but I have not changed my mind and will take the other option, which goes to the first temple without the need to walk on the pilgrimage trail once more. This route follows a lesser road going next to the Betano stream. Now, this is a lost road, with lots of cracks in it. Old leaves lies scattered on the asphalt, with no sign that any cars has passen by in a long time.

The climb up to the Ōsakatōge-pass.

View from the hut at the top of the Ōsakatōge-pass.

I arrive at the road that I will follow almost all the way down to the beginning of my pilgrimage. This will be my second ascent on the walk today, going up to the Utatsugoe-pass. I have a serious internal conflict whether I should climb up to Okunomiya or not, taking the longer and possible much more scenic option. However, I really want to arrive at Ryōzenji in good time for performing the final temple rituals and have time to contemplate my finishing of the pilgrimage at the temple. I am unsure if I have the necessary time available for that route, but it is so tempting.

The route going next to the Betano stream (on the return route going directly to Ryōzenji).

In the end, I decide upon leaving Okunomiya to next time (another mental note), but go a short distance on that route to a hut marked on the map. Thankfully the hut provides some great views, where I can see Tokushima in the distance, and the cluster of trees housing Ryōzenji. A good place for the second lunch of the day. At this time, the sky is no longer in a clear blue colour, but has got a pale veil across it.

A small dam next to the road 41.

Now, the realization arrives for real, but it does feel a little bit unreal. There is less than five kilometres left of my pilgrimage. At the Ōasahiko Jinja Shrine there is a gathering of people. A wonderful shrine with a long alley of stone lanterns leading down towards my destination. As the Takamatsu Expressway went underneath me earlier, I now walk underneath it. Then I arrive at a wooden fence, seeing a familiar building on the other side. I take a short moment just standing there, looking at the pagoda of Ryōzenji.

View towards Tokushima from a hut on the path going up to Okunomiya.

Going around the corner, I once again stand outside the templegate of my first temple. 44 days ago I walked out of the very same gate, uncertain and expectant to the adventure lying ahead of me. Now, I return as a way more confident henro, all the temples, experiences, scenery and most of all, the people that I have met, has changed me in a way. A backpack on a bench just inside the templegate looks strangely familiar, and to my joy it belongs to Violaine who I met in Kuma Kōgen many days ago now. I had really not expected to meet her again, since I had not overtaken her until now. It is great to have someone to share the moment of finishing the pilgrimage with. We sit down for a while telling about some of the experiences we had since parted ways in Kuma Kōgen. Good thing I did not climb up to Okunomiya.

Ōasahiko Jinja Shrine.

An alley of stone lanterns.

Ryōzenji is still the modest and charming temple that is was when I left, but now it undergoes some maintenance work. I go through the temple rituals and resites the sutras for a last time on Shikoku. Then I receive my finishing stamp at the nōkyōchō-office. From the store I buy another nōkyōchō-book, one that has some beautiful drawings of the various temples in it. I also buy a book to put the slips of the honzons of each temple in, the japanese guidebook and a stack of osamefudas. Violaine will stay at a nearby minshuku, so here our ways parts again.

Back at Ryōzenji.

Stepping out of the templegate with the pilgrimage behind me is a strange moment. A part of me is of course satisfied that it is finished, but another wants to go on. Being a circular walk, you can do exactly that, there are waymarks going from the temple that you can follow for yet another round of the pilgrimage. I go the other way though, but there is hope, I am not completely finished with my pilgrimage yet. There is a mountain to climb.

Resiting the sutras for the last time on Shikoku. However confident I felt that I had become as a henro, I still needed the book for the sutra reading.

Back again at Bandō, I sit and wait for the train to arrive as dusk settles on the sky. Another henro is also here, having finished today he too. We take the small and atmospheric trainride back to Tokushima, remembering the time I took it the other way. There is some way to walk from the train station to get to my hotel, Grand Vrio. The hotel room all make up for it, it is great, with a nice view of the city from the window and a good sofa to rest in for my weary body.

I have done it, finishing the Shikoku 88 Temples Pilgrimage.

Usually, I like to go out and have a modest celebration when I finish a walk, but today I feel tired. I settle for a dinner at the chinese restaurant run by the hotel, so it became an even more modest celebration, not venturing into the city centre for a meal. And since I have such fine views and seating at my hotel room, I feel fine just sitting there with a beer, relaxing and thinking back at my adventure. Still wondering where all the other people and henro I have met are now. I am having my first full rest day tomorrow, it is going to be fine.

<- SanbonmatsuTokushima ->

Shikoku Henro Michi // day 43 // Nagaoji - Sanbonmatsu

Shikoku 88 Temples Pilgrimage, day 43.
Temples: #87-88 (Nagaoji, Ōkuboji).
Distance: 34.8km (1241.8km), time spent: 11:15.
Weather: Marvellous.

When I leave in the morning after breakfast, I get a big hug from the landlady at my accommodation, as well as a bag with osettai containing chocolate, a vitamin drink and candy. That was a lovely start to the day. Being just two days away from returning back to Ryōzenji, including this day, I had spent some time yesterday evening to look at the various options for the return trip so to say. And where to stay this night. It appear that most of the pilgrims returns to temple #1 on the route leading to temple #3, Konsenji. Many also go by temple #10, Kirihataji. Both options meant that I would walk for a while on the same path that I already have. It would of course be wonderful to walk on and see the paths I trod on for so many days ago again, as well as the temples, but I have decided upon the option leading straight to Ryōzenji.

Shinto shrine at Nagaoji.

I do not have many steps to walk to get to my first appointment of the day. Steppipng out of the door, I cross the street and bow once, then I walk underneath the templegate of Nagaoji (#87), Long Tail Temple. The templegrounds of this temple are quite big and open, which appear to be used as a parking lot more or less, with the halls on one side and the gate, belltower and purification basin on the other. I am a little bit reluctant to leave, holding on to the experience of being at a temple as long as I can, this being the penultimate temple.

Nagaoji.

Walking out of Nagao, my eyes are solidly fixated towards the mountains, trying to see if I can pinpoint which of the mountains that I will climb over today that is Nyotaisan. I had been walking peacefully for some time when I see the Maeyama Ohenro Kōryū Salon, which is a Shikoku pilgrimage community center, meeting Osata-san as I enter. This would be the last time I met him. Speaking of which, meeting Naomi at Yashimaji yesterday would also be the last time that I saw her. At the salon I get some tea and biscuits. I also get a certificate of completion, being number 573 that has completed the pilgrimage this year, probably just counting the foreigners. The actual number is probably bigger, as I assume not every one visits this salon. It is known that the number of available accommodation along the pilgrimage trail is dwindling, as the owners are getting old and few new accommodations are opened. New ones do open, but it is not that often. At the pilgrimage centre, I get interviewed by two women who is trying to open a place for pilgrims like the albergues on the Camino in Spain, with dormitories instead of the usual minshuku or ryokan rooms.

A face in a treetrunk, on the way from Nagaoji.

Another henro here tells me that the original trail is going due south from here towards bangai temple #20 (Ōtakiji), also marked as the old henro trail on the map. He will walk that way, I will stick with the trail marked as the popular route in the guidebook. The third option goes mostly on a road up towards Nyotaisan. Upon crossing a small bridge after the Maeyama Ohenro Kōryū Salon, I am being confronted by a greenish snake blocking my way. I shout out "'thou shalt not pass, you flame of udon", but unlike Gandalf I cannot strike my staff upon the bridge.

Maeyama dam, the Maeyama Ohenro Kōryū Salon on the other side of the lake.

After Kurusu Jinja the walk becomes truly outstanding, where I have trouble to properly describe the wonder of this walk, as countless sunrays are filtered through the trees when I go underneath them. The play of light is following me all the way as I walk upwards towards the top of the mountain, on good paths going past small creeks glittering in the reflected sunrays. I could not have asked for better weather, soaking up the colours and light around me. I wish the walk would never end.

Sunrays gets filtered through the trees next to a creek on the popular route to Nyotaisan.

Following the sunrays through the trees, the stairs in the ground, the old and new waymarks, the small descents and longer ascents, I make my way up towards the last of major mountains on the pilgrimage. The path actually goes down a bit to where it joins the small road that the third option goes on, with the two options now following the same route from here on. At the final approach to the summit, the path gets steeper. Much steeper. And that holds promises, at least to me, there is something true to 'no pain, no gain'. I pass by a kongōzue left behind next to the steep path. Was it purposefully left behind there, as a token of getting close to the final obstacle before getting to the last temple? Or was it just being in the way? Without getting to ask the bearer of the staff, I will never know the answer.

A walk of beauty.

The summit of Nyotaisan lies at 774m and has a small shrine and a pavilion with some benches at its top. Stepping out on some cliffs next to the small shrine, Nyotaisan presents me with some great views. In the distance, I can see Tokushima. There is a strange realization in looking at the place where I started my adventure from for so many days ago.

The path to Nyotaisan.

Before starting on the descent, I take a deep breath, there is only a steep downhill climb before I am at the ultimate temple, located somewhere below me. Going down I see the ever steeper path in front of me and occasional views of the adjacent mountains through windows in the forest. I descend upon the 88th temple, Ōkuboji (Large Hollow Temple), from above, able to hear the sounds coming from the lively temple some time before I arrive. It is such a beautiful temple (they all are in a way), located underneath a mountain (Nyotaisan) like Yakuriji. Ōkuboji is busy with people, some of them stealing a glance at the foreign henro with a beard suddenly appearing in the midst of the temple, coming out of the woods.

View from the top of Nyotaisan.

For a fee, you can leave behind your staff here, symbolizing the fullfilment of your pilgrimage and that the staff has completed its role. There is a huge glass cabinet here containing numerous staffs. I feel that I should carry my kongōzue also to my kechigan temple, so I will keep it. The kechigan (end of one's pilgrimage) temple is said to be the last temple of your circuit (like Ōkuboji for me), but some argue that the kechigan is the temple you return back to in order to close the circle (like Ryōzenji). There is to be a ceremony of some sort here later, probably broadcasted too, and I get interviewed by a reporter. He says that the interview will appear in the ceremony, but unfortunately I do not have the time to witness it.

At Ōkuboji you can leave your kongōzue behind, as it is said that the staff has completed its role.

Jizō-statues at Ōkuboji.

The kouyou (autumn colors) is in its early bloom and many of the visitors appear to be here for that reason. The kouyou is a good reason to start the pilgrimage even later than did. Stepping out of the templegate, after the somewhat proud moment of receiving the 88th stamp and calligraphy in my book, is a contemplative moment. Only the traditional return to the first temple remains.

Ōkuboji.

Seeing Ōkuboji within its autumn foliage disappear behind me, Nyotaisan still visible, I head down onto a wooden path. And it is like I have entered a forgotten world again. The path takes me past some small farmsteads at the start, then turns into the forest, next to a large creek that I later cross over on stones with water softly flowing over them. Abandoned houses lies next to the path, a wreck of a small truck has bushes growing in its cargo. Reemerging on the road is to be in a remote place on the island. At around three o'clock I arrive at the junction where one path goes down to Kirihataji on a road. I cross over the Hacchozaka slope on a slightly steep path that is warmed by the evening sun.

The templegate of Ōkuboji.

Just me and another henro about when I reach Shiritori-onsen, possibly a popular place to stay for the last night. He will stay there, saying goodbye as we part, then I am utterly alone. My sole reason for not staying at the onsen, surely tempting, was that I wanted to pass through the Mizushi Sanzan. An area of three small mountains (Nachisan, Hongūsan, Toramaruyama). The light is departing as I walk up to the Hoshigoetōge pass. Small, remote farms and hamlets appear sparsely next to the road. At Ōuchi dam I find a nice spot for camping, but I just take a short break there to eat. From here on it gets a little bit harder, as dusk arrives and quickly changes to evening. In the dark, I go a wrong way at a point, at least I believe I do, only to find the path again later on.

In a forgotten world after Ōkuboji.

When I finally stumble into my accommodation for the night, the Royal Hotel in Sanbonmatsu, I am greatly tired. It has been a long day, but a great one as that. Out of season, so quiet at the hotel. Walking through Sanbonmatsu, I passed by what looked like a nice place, Gowariyasu, so that is where I head for dinner. Entering the izakaya, I become the centre of everyones attention. A foreigner may not be the usual guest here. I just indulge myself in what looks good at the joint, eating a large bowl of ramen and more, while everyone is buying me beers. The food is delicious. Some of the local guests speaks English too. Apparently Sanbonmatsu is known for its glove-factories and I speak to a worker at one of the factories and to his boss (Handson grip/). I am having a wonderful evening, but I do get a little bit tipsy of all the beers I get. Especially when the boss takes me to a local bar afterwards for another beer. I am grateful for how the last night of my pilgrimage ended.

A solitary walk through Mizushi Sanzan.

Back at the hotel, still rather tipsy, I try to book a place for the next two nights in Tokushima. Even with the help from the friendly staff at the hotel, it is difficult to find a place. There is a national holiday or something. Eventually I get a room at a little more expensive place than usual, but it is fine. Maybe I have earned a little bit of indulgence and luxury now.

Evening on my way to Sanbonmatsu.

Kagawa has been something of a revelation to me, or nirvana (nehan), the days here has been great. Going to bed, I think of two things. That I am just one day from closing the circle and all the people I have met on my walk, my list of people I would like to say a big thank you to has grown long.

Dinner at Gowariyasu in Sanbonmatsu with great local guests.

<- NagaojiRyōzenji ->

Shikoku Henro Michi // day 42 // Ritsurin Kōen - Nagaoji

Shikoku 88 Temples Pilgrimage, day 42.
Temples: #84-86 (Yashimaji, Yakuriji, Shidoji).
Distance: 28.6km (1207.0km), time spent: 8:53.
Weather: Splendid.

Takamatsu was to me known from Kafka On The Beach by Haruki Murakami, but Takamatsu itself is probably more known for Ritsurin Kōen. I walked to a business hotel close by the famous Japanese garden yesterday, so that I could visit it in the morning today. It was to be another sunny day, which I was very happy for, having both a visit to the garden and two climbs to look forward to ahead of me. Strange thoughts are also now starting to appear in my mind, I know that I am close to finishing the circle now.

Trees in the Japanese garden of Ritsurin Kōen reflected in one of the ponds, with Shiunsan at the back.

Only problem with Ritsurin Kōen is that it is almost too big, almost too beautiful, a place you can get lost in, where time flows in a different scale than the outside world. In other words, I may end up spending too much time there. The garden was built by the local feudal lords at the start of the Edo period. Located underneath the Shiunsan-mountain, Ritsurin Kōen features several ponds, ornate bridges and pathways, a variety of well-gardened trees and small houses built in the styles of old. Carps, the usual inhabitants of the ponds are of course present. The southern part of the garden is built in a Japanese style, with the northern part built in a western style.

Small ornate bridges and pathways, and teahouses in Ritsurin Kōen.

View from the Hiraiho-hill in Ritsurin Kōen, the bridge is named Engetsukyo meaning Full-moon bridge.

I feel that a peaceful mind descends upon me when walking through the garden on the various pathways, bridges and flagstone paths. My curiosity always kindled when I spot a small and intricate path leading to somewhere else in the garden, somewhere beautiful and yet unknown. I visit both the western and the Japanese parts of the garden, although I enjoy it more in the Japanese part, struggling to break free from the lure that the park imposes. Carrying with me food, Ritsurin Kōen now rivals Zentsūji for the best place I have eaten breakfast in. While I eat, an older Japanese man comes over to talk with me, telling me that he has spent some time on the Camino in Spain.

The hondo of Yashimaji.

However, nothing lasts forever, at least if I am to reach my accommodation for the night. It was good starting the day with a visit to a wonderful garden, as the first part of the day is a long walk through Takamatsu. No lid is put on my mood though, as I soon are able to see the Yashimi-plateau appearing in front of me to the left. Smaller in size than Goshikidai, but equal in promise of views. Both overlooking the Seto inland sea.

View over Takamatsu from the viewpoint near Yashimaji.

Looking over towards the Gokensan mountain where I barely can see the Yakuriji temple beneath the rocky cliffs at the top. From here, the path goes steeply down and crosses the river to the right of the picture, before climbing up again.

The Yashimi plateau is the first climb of today. Today is quite similar in some ways to the day that I climbed up to Kakurinji and Tairyūji, only replace Yashimaji and Yakuriji with those two temples. Although the climb up to Yashimaji is not as hard and steep as up to Kakurinji. The views and lush scenery all make up for the hard surface on the way up to the top of the plateau. I close my eyes to the signs pointing a way up to a castle above. Yashimaji (#84), Roof Island Temple, looks like a primary school when I arrive. Only temporary of course, it goes back to being a temple when the majority of the schoolkids leaves. As they are about to leave, I have to answer a questionnaire about temples (if I recall it right).

A Buddha-statue smiling to the sky on the climb towards Yakuriji.

The nice hondo gives the impression of having endured some hardship over the years. It looks old and worn, painted in red rather than the more traditional brown. And maybe it has, this mountain was the site of a major battle, Battle of Gempei, in the 12th Century between the Heike and Genji clans. Naomi, who arrived at the temple before me, gestures for me to follow the small road from the templegate. North of the temple there is a lookout point, where the views of Takamatsu and the sea is fantastic.

Kōbō Daishi at a nice lookout point in front of the Yakuriji temple.

From Yashimaji, I now have to climb down again, only to climb up again towards Yakuriji. Strangely enough is the path going down not marked as henro-korogashi on the map, as this is one of the steepest paths on the pilgrimage so far. In rainy weather, I guess that the road going down is the safer option. From the top of the climb, I could look over towards the mountain where the next temple is located at, Gokensan. To the left of the summit, it appear that the Japanese is about to tear down the mountain, making several huge grey and white wounds in the sides of it.

Yakuriji underneath Gokensan, the Five sword mountain.

After the short intermesso between the two temples and mountains, with a visit to a supermarket for some refreshments and energy, I start the second climb of the day. On the way, me and another henro alternates between pointing each other in the correct direction, past several displays of strange and funny Buddhist statues. This path goes more straightforward up, still on hard surface, with only a short section on soft ground. On the way up, I can hear the sounds of the cable car passing by. Before the entrance to the temple there is a nice statue of Kōbō Daishi, sitting with his back to a wonderful view.

A stone lantern at Yakuriji.

Yakuriji (#85), Eight Chestnuts Temple, is located underneath several huge rocks or cliffs, the five sword mountain of Gokensan. It got its name from eight baked chestnuts that Kōbō Daishi planted here before he went to China, upon returning he found that the trees had grown big. With the cliffs behind it, the temple looks quite imposing on me, it is a great temple. I spend some time exploring and resting at the temple, only to find at there is more at the temple when I leave it. Such as a fine pagoda. On the road down from the temple, I get annoyed seeing a small shrine an the top of one of the cliffs above, mentally making a note to myself: next time.

The Gojūnotō (five-storied pagoda) of Shidoji.

Down, near the Shido bay, the waymarks points me towards the bay, but the guidebook tells me otherwise. I decide to follow the waymarks, looks nicer, closer to the sea. I stop for lunch at an Udon restaurant near Fusazaki. As I sit and eat, I wonder why I have not eaten my lunch more often at the restaurants on my way around Shikoku. The combinis are convenient yet, but still. Then I make for some quick walking towards Shidoji, only taking a brief stop at the okunoin, Jizōji.

Wandering in the Japanese garden of Shidoji.

Shidoji and the pagoda seen from the outside.

I am so surprised when I see the templegrounds of Shidoji (#86), The Temple of Fulfilling One's Wish. This is the first temple on the way that I find unkempt and slightly overgrown. At the same time there is something refreshing about it too, especially since the temple is located within the small town of Shido, giving me the feeling of being more in the middle of a forest than in a town. The young monk at the nōkyōchō-office gives me a small golden pin as osettai, which is for the 1200th anniversary of the Shikoku pilgrimage. Then he proudly encourages me to visit their Japanese garden. However, this garden feels overgrown like the temple and far from Ritsurin Kōen. Again, it does give me the sensation of being in a forgotten place, like a place you remembered from when you were young and then rediscover. I kind of like it here.

Gyokusenji, the okunoin of Nagaoji.

Leaving Shidoji, I look at the map and the clock. Then I look at the map and the clock again. I have some distance to cover before I will be at Nagaoji, both the temple and my accommodation. In my haste, I forget to buy something to drink for the way, soon finding out that there are not any vending machines to see. For a long time. I get thirsty. Eventually salvation arrives, at a place that also provides some good seating for a weary henro. Only a brief stop at the okunoin of Nagaoji too, Gyokusenji, before hurrying on. Under the sinking sun, glowing more and more orange, I walk through the peaceful rural countryside of Japan. I appear to be the only henro out walking now.

A sunset over rural Shikoku.

I know that the temple rituals at Nagaoji would have to wait for tomorrow. It is quiet at the temple when I arrive. My guesthouse for the night bears the same name as the temple and is situated just across the street. I am late again, but I gave a warning when I got the reservation that I might not be arriving on time. The place is run by a cozy old lady. There is also a minor reunion here, as Osata-san and the two Japanese henros from Akebono-sō and their Russian friend are here too.

Nagaoji after closing time.

At dinner, the old lady shows us pictures of the various routes to temple #88, Ōkuboji. No dinner for me here either, due to my late reservation, so I had to venture out in the dark to the nearby Lawson to buy food. I get to eat together with the rest, though, the host heats up my food and kindly give me some food also. Another lovely day on the Way of the 88 Temples. It feels strange going to sleep thinking that I will be at the last temple tomorrow.

<- Ritsurin KōenSanbonmatsu ->