Distance: 25.1km (383.9km), time spent: 11:02 (155:16).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 1368m / 1028m / 1617m.
Weather: Blue sky with clouds in the morning, then more and more clouds, then rain.
It has been a peaceful night. And thankfully too, a night with a nice and cool temperature. Long from the stiffling heat in the city. I will be going to Nørdstedalseter today, then I will be deciding how far I will go in total. However, it is a long and hard walk from here to that cabin. I hope to reach Sota Sæter by tomorrow, which is said to be an even harder walk than today, so I should prepare for going further than Nørdstedalseter today.
Sun above Aurkvee in the morning.
If there is any hardship in store for me later in the day, the nice weather greeting me in the morning is not telling me anything about it. Sunrays are racing across the small lake as I sit down and eat my breakfast, consisting of hot porridge, crispbread and a cup of hot tea. I have a short walk down to the dam at Storevatnet at the beginning of my day, including a short and steep descent. Three fishermen meets me when I am almost down at the lake, climbing upwards to try their fishing luck at some of the small lakes above.
Sognefjellet with Dyrhaugslogan.
Last year my former colleague warned me that the path had been rerouted near Storevatnet. Unbeknown to him and in far from optimal weather, he had got lost trying the find the way. Fortunately, I am hence aware of the rerouting. However, the map I have has not been updated, but I was told at Sognefjellshytta that I should only follow the usual red t-blazes and I would be fine. If you are used to follow the path on a map, this rerouting could cause you some concern if you are not aware of it. The rerouted path goes further south of Kjerringhetta than the old path did. I am unaware of the reason for it, but there is a very steep section on the old route and my guess is that it might have been some sort of a rockslide or similar. This will make my day longer.
The red t blaze used to waymark various paths in the Norwegian mountains.
Storevatnet.
After having walked some way further southwest, no longer following the red line on the map, I must confess that at one point I do start wondering if I am on the correct way or not. Whatever the truth is, the view of the valley southwest of me is very nice. Eventually, the path starts to turn northwards again. I might feel some relief on going in what amounts to be the correct direction, but the path is far from easy-going. In fact, it is downright cumbersome, going in twist and turns across a broken scenery. With just the right amount of steps that is a little taller than what I find nice when walking with quite the heavy backpack. It is short of scrambling, only it is not. At one point, I have to take of my backpack, scramble down and lift it down. Walking like this, I cannot keep up with the time. This torn and teared up landscape is definitely the result of the glaciers that once covered this land.
Harbardsbreen.
Believing to be back on the path marked on the map, I start the biggest climb of the day. Near a small creek, I settle down for a short break, the chocolate kind of break. A sugar refill with a nice view. Sounds of walking poles warns me about another hiker approaching me rapidly. She is one of those old and sinewy people that looks like she is just floating easily over the rocky surface. We exchange some words, while we both expresses our admiration of the views. She is quite right, it is wonderful to hike here in Breheimen, where you can walk with the view of the jagged and rugged peaks of Jotunheimen and Hurrungane. Informed that it will all be downhill for me from here on, I set off again with renewed vigor. I am not even half-way up to the highest point.
View down Mjelkedalen.
Smørstabbrean glacier behind Storevatnet.
Finally at the top, I meet two other women also coming from Nørdstedalseter, which had used a more reasonable time to compare against for me. My timeframe to reach Nørdstedalseter and then go on is looking good. I am however somewhat surprised that I have not met many people so far. All the reports coming from the mountains are telling tales of a near record-summer of hiking. I guess this is another perk of walking here in Breheimen, here I can go and look at the peaks in Jotunheimen, there I would be looking at the people in Jotunheimen (Jotunheimen is probably the most popular mountain area to go hiking in). I walk in a barren landscape, with most of the surface stony and rocky, with the occasional white blanket of snow that I have to cross.
Jotunheimen skyline. Walking across a field of ice and snow with the majestic peaks of Jotunheimen as backdrop.
Lunchtime is coming up. And so is the rain. Neatly converging above Liabrevatnet. I seek shelter behind a large rock. What happened to the nice weather in the morning? Not to mention, the hot and warm weather from earlier in the summer. Typical. However, this is right in tune with the rest of my hike of the Massiv trail. Wrapping my raincoat tighter around me, I continue walking in the gusty weather. Crossing over the outlet of Liabrevatnet by jumping from stone to stone. The rain pauses and then continues. From the top of Tverrbyttfjellet, I can see waves upon waves of rain coming around the corner in the valley below me, momentarily hiding the view of the valley from my eyes. Grey walls of clouds and rain coming in my direction. Fortunately, it is not heavy rain.
Fannaråken, last year on Massiv I spent one night in the cabin at the top.
A thin wall of rain are blowing across the Liabrevatnet towards me.
At just after five o'clock, having walked for about eight hours, I arrive at Nørdstedalseter. In perfect timing it seems, as the rain intensifies while I take a break at the cabin. I yearn for a waffle, with sourcream and jam. They usually stop serving waffles at five, since it is soon dinner-time, but thankfully they make an exception for me. So, sitting inside the cosy cabin while the rain tries to break through the windows, I enjoy my price along with a beer. It is too much luxury passing by these staffed cabins when you are hiking in the mountains. Looking out the window, I cannot say that the thought of staying here for the night have not crossed my mind. A group of people on a guided tour, by the Norwegian Trekking Association (DNT), arrives. They were sitting on the same bus as I did to and from Lom.
Approaching rain coming up Vetledalen.
Vetledalen, before Nørdstedalseter.
Be it rain or not, I am determined to keep on walking. When I close the door to the cabin behind me, the weather has cleared a little, but heavy and ominous clouds are still residing between the mountainsides. In my backpack, I now carry a box full of tasty cured meat that I got from the group. Truly grateful for that. A great addition to my dinner later in the evening. I am almost alone while walking on the slightly ascending road leading up to Fivlemyrane, only meeting one late hiker with his dog coming from Sota Sæter. He had been caught up in the rain further up, where the path went over large areas of rocks. The rain had made the rocks slippery, and he had to walk carefully. A reminder of what awaits me for tomorrow. Rumours of this section of the trail had come to my attention before, I hope there will be no rain.
Enjoying a waffle with sourcream and jam, and a beer, at Nørdstedalseter.
Ominous clouds drifting through Tverrdalen.
After an hour or so, having walked next to the Fivlemyrane lake, I find a suitable camping spot out on a small promontory in the lake. No sooner than I am about to pitch my tent, it starts to rain. I quickly get the tent up and throw my stuff in under cover, before seeking shelter myself. In a break in the rain I can go out to prepare my dinner. Now, this do make for a cosy evening inside my tent. Eating my dinner, adding the cured meat to the menu and having brewed myself a nice cup of hot tea I am feeling good. It gets darker outside, my headlamp is turned on and my book is retrieved from my backpack. Last night on the Massiv trail.
Fivlemyrane in the evening, at the end of the lake there is a power station.
<- AurkveeSota Sæter ->
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