2nd of April to 4th of April 2026.
Distance: 110.0km. 4 days.
Wikiloc: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/camino-de-la-ria-de-muros-noia-y-fisterra-258152240
I had planned to use four days to walk the Camino de la Ría de Muros-Noia, which left me another four days before I had to head back home to Norway. Doing the Camino Sanabrés came up as an option, a route I had immensely enjoyed as a part of my Camino Mozárabe. I should be able to get from Ourense to Santiago de Compostela or the other way around in four days.
Leaving Santiago de Compostela for the end of the world.
However, doing the Camino Sanabrés meant either taking a bus to Ourense or walk the Camino in the opposite direction. I wanted to have a continuous walk and at the same time not spending too much time having to keep an eye on my phone all the time. In the end, I fall back to doing the Camino Fisterra yet another time.
The old mill over the Río Sarela.
Walking through one of the enchanted woods on the Camino Fisterra, after Auqapesada.
This is probably the one of the best ways to walk to the end of the world, it is such a beautiful Camino. Especially its enchanted forest sections. Doing a walk several times also means that you make notice to the changes along the way. A place that before was full of light, now appear with lights out. Or the opposite, a house in decline now suddenly being brought back to life.
Ponte Maceira.
Pink in bloom.
After Camino de la Ría de Muros-Noia, I must have gotten better in spotting alternative routes. I cannot say that I have seen any alternative routes out of Negreira before, but this time I see that there is a dotted line leaving the town on Gronze maps. The scenic variante del paseo fluvial follows the Río Barcala until it ascends through woods up to the village of Zas where it rejoins the official route.
Río Barcala on the variante del paseo fluvial after Negreira.
Waterfall on the variante del paseo fluvial after Negreira.
The most significantly change from my solitary pilgrimage on the Camino de la Ría de Muros-Noia is the number of other pilgrims. It is a welcoming change, most notably on the evening on the first day. Where I stay at the Albergue Alto da Pena and share a communal dinner together with other pilgrims.
Sunrise from the Albergue Alto da Pena.
Next to me at the dinner table sits an Irish family that is walking towards Santiago de Compostela. They look very tired and when I tell them how far I plan to go the next day, they roll their eyes.
Landscape in the morning on the way towards Vilaserío.
And they might be right in rolling their eyes, for I have a long way to go. On the second stage on the Camino Fisterra I have always ended in either Olveiroa or O Logoso (likewise changing between Negreira and Vilaserío on the first day), this time I wanted to go somewhere else. I decided to go to Cee. It would make for more time in Finisterre, or so I thought.
Walking on the Camino Fisterra towards Monte Aro in the distance.
View from Monte Aro.
I share a long way the next day together with Christina from Germany, whom also was at the dinner at the Albergue da Alto da Pena. A pleasant company as the Camino winds around and slightly over Monte Aro with its views, and the rolling hills above Corzón.
Río Xallas between Olveiroa and O Logoso.
At the albergue in O Logoso, I am surprised by the absence of other pilgrims. At this time I had expected there to be others here. I get the greatest welcome of all however, by the smiling baby of the hosts sitting in the entrance to the café.
Looking back somewhere on the way between Hospital and Cee.
View of Cee and Cabo Fisterra from the Cruceiro da Armada.
I remember walking alone on the scenic route to O Logoso from Olveiroa on my first Camino Fisterra, now I walk alone the long and scenic way to Cee from O Logoso. I have a feeling that this section appears to be more and more open every time I go, as I see more of the surrounding areas every time I go. From the Cruceiro de Armada I can now see both Cee below and Cabo Fisterra in the horizon.
Praza da Constitución, Cee.
The werewolf alike sculpture called Vákner is still there, which gives me associations to the Norwegian word våkner. A word whose meaning is similar to awakens. Feels like the beast awakens.
Corcubión.
Through a narrow lane leaving Corcubión.
The sun is about to set over the hills as I reach Cee. I stay at the Hotel Larry where my room has a great view of the bay. Tired, I do not do much in the evening other than slowly walk down to the centre of the town for a hamburger and a couple beers relaxing after a long and satisfying walk on the Camino.
Praia de Estorde.
In the first part of the Camino Fisterra, the enchanted forests are the highlight, on the last section it is the coastal walk with views of the sea and the cape at the end of the world.
View of Finisterre from Mirador de Talón.
With only about 16 kilometres to go to the lighthouse at Finisterre, I take my time. Time flies when you have enough of it. I dawdle. Spending some time in the morning in Cee, taking a coffee in lovely Corcubión, walking the sand on Praia de Estorde. And of course go swimming, together with three other Spanish pilgrims, I take a dip in the somewhat chill water at the Praia de Talón. On the other side there is only the sea and the tip of the Cabo Fisterra.
Praia de Talón.
Plaza Constitución, Finisterre.
Arriving in Finisterre, I eat lunch, meeting Edgar from Latvia again whom I also met at the Albergue Alto da Pena. Out to the Faro de Fisterra I take the route going over the top of the cape. With most of the walking going on a gravel track rather than on a paved road. Views are wonderful of the sea, and the Praia do Mar de Fóra and the cliffs behind. I walk out to the Ermita de San Guillermo, but only the views and the foundations are remaining. Taking this route is recommended. The Punta de Finisterre is teeming with people. It feels more crowded than before.
Praia do Mar de Fóra.
Ermita de San Guillermo.
The sunset is beautiful.
Cabo Fisterra.
Back in Finisterre, I sit down at the only available table at a restaurant. However, there is an Italian pilgrim that apparently is before me in the line, but she is so kind to share her table with me. A pleasant end to the day.
0.00km.
It is Easter Eve and Finisterre is ready for fiesta. There is a funfair in town and a concert next to the port. It is amusing to walk between the various stalls and have a beer while listening to the music, but in the end, I am too tired to keep it up for long.
Sunset at Finisterre.
Sunset at Finisterre (slight return).
I return to Santiago de Compostela by bus the next day, on the bus are also the three women that I went swimming with. Together with them and some other pilgrims, I spend some time in the city watching the Easter processions and having lunch. Another one of those Camino moments.
Concert at the Easter Eve party at the end of the world.
In the evening, I sit down for a beer in the same bar that surprised me with dancing earlier on my walk. This time, it surprises me with people gathering to play music together, traditional folk music both Galician and Celtic in style. However, what surprises me the most is that I see so many pilgrims just walking past the place, and not coming in to listen.
Easter procession in Santiago de Compostela.
This wraps up my Easter Camino. Four days of a solitary pilgrimage on the relatively new Camino de la Ría de Muros-Noia, followed by four days of a more social pilgrimage on the Camino Fisterra. I am happy.
Catedral de Santiago de Compostela.
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