29th of March 2026 to 1th of April 2026.
Distance: 154.1km. 4 days.
Wikiloc: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/camino-de-la-ria-de-muros-noia-y-fisterra-258152240
And then, suddenly a Camino de Santiago that I had not heard of before. Kind of appearing out of the blue, discovered by chance as I was checking something out on Gronze while walking my winter Camino Portugués. A new line on the map, going by the name of Camino de la Ría de Muros-Noia.
This set the sails for a Camino during Easter.
Concello de Muros.
If the statistics of the Oficina de Acogida al Peregrino in Santiago de Compostela is accurate, the first pilgrims that saw the light of day on the Camino de la Ría de Muros-Noia was in 2021. However, I am pretty sure that the line on the map appeared later than that, I might be wrong of course. According to Gronze the route received recognition as an official Camino de Santiago route in 2020 by the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela.
Iglesia de San Pedro in Muros.
This is apparently a historic pilgrimage route to the tomb of Saint James, now awakened back to life. One notable historic person that did the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela this way was the Venetian merchant Pietro Quirini. Although he apparently did it on horseback, to pray for safe passage after having to seek port to repair his ship after it was damaged in storms on the way from the Mediterranean to Flanders. In Norway he is best known for having drifted ashore off the island of Røst in Lofoten in 1432.
Muíño de Mareas Pozo do Cachón. A tidal mill that harnessed the movement of the tides thanks to its 230 meter long dam.
After Muros the Camino utilizes a narrow path next to the Muros-Noia estuary to escape walking on the road.
The Camino de la Ría de Muros-Noia starts from the historical site of Muros, located on the northern side of the Muros and Noia estuary. The original route is however not long enough to be eligible for receiving the Compostela in itself, so an additional stage from the seaside town of Porto do Son to Noia was added to the route, making the total length of the Camino about 102 kilometres. From Noia, the two routes converge and continues together to Santiago de Compostela.
View from the Cruz de Pelos with Muros directly on the other side of the bay.
Getting to Muros is not difficult, by taking the same bus from Santiago de Compostela that goes to the end of the world, Finisterre. Stepping of the bus in the town gives me a feeling that it is not full spring yet, with a chilly and gusty wind forcing me to put on my jacket. Muros is a nice little town boasting narrow and cobbled streets, old buildings and a seaside port. If open, you can get a stamp in the Iglesia de San Pedro, a 13th century church that was transformed into a collegiate church in the 14th century by Pope Alexander VI.
Waymarker of the Camino de la Ría de Muros-Noia, notice the emblem at the bottom depicting a ship.
Despite having a kind of coastal profile, the route from Muros to Noia follows the old royal road, which typically avoided the coastline, being more treacherous in the old times than it is today. On the first day I walk to the quiet O Cruceiro de Roo, alternating between walking through villages close to the sea and excursions into the hills and woods above on ancient paths that in between retain their original paved stones.
On the Camino through woods towards Bornalle, with a cross made of scallops.
Ancient are also the Petrogrifo Fontemoureira, petroglyphs found in the hills above Freixo. Far from being ancient are the deep scars of forestry machinery marring the trail down from the petroglyphs.
Petrogrifo Fontemoureira.
Promises of a magnificent view of the Noia-Muros estuary got the better of me and I temporarily left the Camino to climb up to the Cruz de Pelos. At the top there is wizard playing the bagpipe, although it is not for me, but for the participants of a race passing by the cross. The promises were kept; the views were wonderful.
A lovely section of the Camino after O Cruceiro de Roo walking next to a small creek.
After O Cruceiro de Roo, the Camino goes on a relatively long route to the North of the estuary and the Río Tambre river, again alternating between passing through villages in a cultural landscape and going through sections of quiet woods. On the way to Noia, there are two bridges standing out, the relatively secluded Ponte do Ruso and the Ponte Nafonso which is used to cross over the Tambre river. Watch out for a short and wonderful walk visiting old water mills at Muiños do Rego das Cunchas while walking on the road after Ponte Nafonso.
Ponte do Ruso.
In A Serra de Outes, I opted for the alternative route going through the small town on a quiet path next to the Río Entins, which I can recommend. Pilgrims has the option of another alternative route before the last kilometres into Noia, where the official route mostly goes through an urbanized landscape. The coastal variant passing by A Barquiña is definitely recommended as it offers more woodland sections, nice views of the Ría de Muros-Noia and enters Noia on a promenade next to the water. However, the alternative route does not feature any waymarks at all and at the time of writing requires navigational aids such as a GPS device or an app on your phone, such as Gronze.
View from Alto do Toxo on the way towards A Ponte Nafonso.
Ponte Nafonso.
Noia is said to be a little version of Santiago de Compostela. Probably due to the similarity of old buildings in its old town, and the monumental portal of the Igrexa de San Martiño de Noia which for some might bear some resemblance to the Pórtico de la Gloria of the more famous cathedral in Santiago. The square with the church is a nice spot.
From the coastal variant towards Noia.
When I was walking the Camino, the albergue in Noia was still closed, but as I write this article it has opened, marking it as the first and at this time only albergue on this Camino.
Igrexa de San Martiño de Noia.
After having had lunch and a break in Noia, I walk to Porto do Son, doing the Camino in reverse. This stage of the Camino de la Ría de Muros-Noia sees more walking on paved roads than those before, although still pleasant in some ways. I opted for the official route when walking to Porto do Son, but walked the alternative routes when walking back to Noia. The alternative routes go by the Playa de Coira and Playa de Agüieira beaches, but are not waymarked. Going for a swim is tempting.
The sun and the sea from Porto do Son.
Secadero de Congrios in Porto do Son. This structure is similar to a structure used in Norway to hang up fish to dry, only this is specific to eels.
Both in O Cruceiro de Roo and in Porto do Son I faced some uncertainty in terms of getting dinner, bringing back memories from Pontevedra on New Year’s Eve. In O Cruceiro de Roo on Palm Sunday, I was told that there was a place that should open at eight o’clock, but when I arrived there a little after eight it was closed. Spanish opening hours are a familiar term and checking on the place later, I found it open. In Porto do Son, the only place that I found that was open was of the more expensive kind, but the food was delicious.
Walking on a boardwalk next to the Playa de Agüieira.
Playa de Langaño.
The stage from Porto do Son to Noia is just 16km long, but that leaves me time to explore another alternative section of the Camino de la Ría de Muros-Noia. From Noia, pilgrims have the option to follow the variante fluvial to the monastery of San Xusto de Toxosoutos instead of the original route that follows the old camino real. The route splits at the Ponte de Traba bridge in Noia, but there are again no waymarks. However, later on the variant, Camino milestones suddenly make an appearance, probably meaning that they are in the process of waymarking it.
Ancient village of Xei.
Variante fluvial from Noia to Toxosoutos.
The walk on the verdant river variant is pure joy and is undoubtedly the highlight of this Camino. With just a few short exceptions, the route for the most part goes on a beautiful path next to the Río de Vilacoba river, which is both narrow and gnarly at times. On the way one passes by remnants of old water mills, the ruins of the ancient village of Xei and the immense ruin of the old Fábrica de papel da Galiñeira paper mill.
Ruin of the old Fábrica de papel da Galiñeira paper mill.
Serenity is the cliché as I walk next to the river and passing by the several waterfalls on the way. When arriving at the old monastery at Toxosoutos, continue following the river upstream to rejoin the original route. The route on Gronze maps will instruct you to leave the river at the church, but this will make you miss out on the last scenic section. I return to Noia by the way of the official route.
A scenic waterfall on the variante fluvial with the remnants of an old mill next to it.
On the fourth and final day to Santiago de Compostela, I return to Toxosoutos on the official route, which in itself is not bad at all. There are some short sections when I have to walk on a road, but the route is mostly dominated by forest once I have climbed up through the outskirts above Noia.
Another wonderful scenic spot on the river variant between Noia and Toxosoutos.
However, shortly after Toxosoutos with its old monastery, the Camino takes to the road for a couple of kilometres. Thankfully, the road is not heavily trafficked, but the walking is uninspiring. Arriving in Urdilde, I can for the first time see Santiago de Compostela in the distance. From the small town there is about 20 kilometres to the cathedral, I wonder if this is the place that is the farthest away on any Camino from where you can see Santiago.
Walk the light fantastic, through the woods on the official route from Noia to Toxosoutos.
The last stage carries some similarities to the final stage of the Camino Portugués, and they are not passing very far from each other as well as they get closer to Santiago de Compostela. Although dominated by hard surface, it is a quite pleasant walk through rural areas with villages, wayside crosses, chapels and the occasional forest section. At the old Pazo de San Lourenzo de Trasouto cloister, the route joins the Camino Fisterra although you likely will not meet any other pilgrims on it as they will have left for the end of the world earlier on the day.
Mosteiro de San Xusto de Toxosoutos.
To me this is actually the best route into Santiago de Compostela, with the reward of arriving at the cathedral with its façade facing you.
A layered landscape before Urdilde.
Not many pilgrims have walked the Camino de la Ría de Muros-Noia yet and I am curious of how many more pilgrims it will see in the coming years. On the downside, the Camino does feel a little bit contrived. On reason being the necessity to add the stage from Porto do Son to Noia in order to be able to cover the necessary distance to get the Compostela. According to Gronze, the ratio between hard and soft surface is about fifty-fifty.
Iglesia de Santa María dos Ánxeles.
On the positive side the route does offer a varied walk. The highlights are the views of the estuary, scenic woodland sections, pleasant cultural landscapes and the nice towns like Muros and Noia. What constitutes the biggest reason to walk this Camino is the verdant river variant from Noia to the Mosteiro de San Xusto de Toxosoutos.
Through woods before Bertamiráns.
Santiago de Compostela seen from Camino de la Ría de Muros-Noia.
In the evening in Santiago I am so fortunate to witness a group of people gathering at a local café to play music, to sing and to dance. It is a surprising experience, making a wonderful end of my pilgrimage on the Camino de la Ría de Muros-Noia.
Catedral de Santiago de Compostela.
No comments:
Post a Comment