Distance: 10.6km (137.2km), time spent: 2:52.
Weather: Veiled.
Another night of rain and thunder. Is there a strange correlation between that and a new blood blister? Today, I will have a short walk to Malham. As a matter of fact, I feel it is so short that I contemplate taking it a step further and walk all the way to Horton in Ribblesdale. That, however, is a not so wise decision for my feet. Maybe.
On the road out of Gargrave.
After breakfast I go to the pharmacy, asking the apothecary for advice (there is no doctor in the village). She looks at my tiny nemesis and tells me that it looks fine (in what way a blood blister can look fine), but that I maybe should consider taking a rest day. Malham feels fine then.
Gently rolling hills.
From Gargrave there is just above 10km to Malham, with the only promise regarding the scenery is that it will be gentle rolling hills and easy riverside walks. Malham itself, though, holds a lot more exciting stuff in store, but more on that later. Starting from The Dalesman Café it feels like time is only moving forward again once I am out of reach of the café.
Pennine Way signposts.
Road walk out over Gargrave, then I am dumped onto a green field, similar to the ones leading to Gargrave. Also similar is the path, visible and not visible.
Eshton Moor.
Eshton Moor, the name implies a moor landscape with bogs and peats, but it is little like that. Descending, I meet a young man, a southbound Pennine Wayfarer. He warns me of the herd of cows (bullocks?) in the field ahead, tells me that they had chased him across the field. Ok, I have fenced off a rabid dog before, in Turkey on the Lycian Way, but cows? That is something new. I brace myself and enter the field. And walks uncontested past the cows. Nothing happened at all, they just looked stupid at me. Maybe that had lost interest after their unsuccesful chase of the previous hiker.
Green fields and roads.
Bridge over River Aire.
The next scenery is just as promised, a mild and undemanding walk next to the Aire River. Pleasant, charming and relaxing, but still conveying a sense of being a transport stage to the more interesting stages ahead. The old mill buildings in Airton, that now has been turned into apartments, is passed by. Seen through the greenery are also a few stately old houses.
Airton.
Horsegate.
I have seen a lot of different gates throughout my life as a walker, but a horse? In Hanlith, a small hamlet before the last stretch towards Malham, a horse has positioned itself perfectly between the gateposts of two stone fences. Reluctantly it lets me pass through, like it is assessing whether I am worthy or not.
Looking towards Gordale Scar.
Excitement first appear at the end of the short walk. When the views of Malham Cove and Gordale Scar appears in the horizon. From all the quiet scenery of the last days, these are like geological fireworks. Sudden cracks and exposure of limestone formations rises behind the rolling greenery and buildings of Malham. A line of parked cars gives a direct indication of what I might expect upon arriving.
On the approach to Malham, with the cove behind.
'As far as possible try to avoid Malham at busy weekends and holidays' my guidebook warns me. Had I walked all the way yesterday, I would arrive here on a Thursday, but not it is Friday. A weekend that is. Except for Hebden Bridge, this is the most busy place I have come to so far on the Pennine Way. Still, I have no trouble acquiring a bed at the youth hostel here (but it is fully booked tomorrow). I kind of like the youth hostels here, my stay at the one in Edale was great, so I look forward to this one too. I find a store selling various outdoor equipment, providing me with a brand new sunhat.
Smithy in Malham.
The walk here settled nicely into the ranks of pleasant, but not the most exciting, Pennine days. Resting is a word seldom found in my hiking vocabulary (it probably should be), even when I need it given my foot. So in Malham, I embark upon a small local afternoon adventure off the Pennine Way, that will be the story of my upcoming post.
Malham.
<< GargraveJanet's Foss, Gordale Scar, Malham Cove >>
No cows harassed me on the Pennine Way, but I have had a similar experience in Wales near Pembroke, where a bunch of cows blocked the gate forward and then mobbed me forcing me back to the gate I entered by (I had to keep turning to look them in the eye to keep them even vaguely in check). Not what I was expecting...
ReplyDeleteAnd the Gordale Scar in particular was one of my favourite places while walking the Pennine Way, even though it's not on the Way. The whole Malham area is wonderful, and I guess I'd say the same of the Yorkshire Dales generally.
Yes, you kind of expect them (cows) to be kind of docile and uninterested beings. Bulls or bullocks on the other hand...
DeleteAnd also yes, my visit to Gordale Scar was definitely one of the highlights on the way. As you say, it is not on the Way, but I always feel that sometimes it is also important to not only focus on what is directly on the route, but also what is next to it.