Distance: 9.5km (432.8km), time spent: 2:30 (166:51).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 1815m / 901m / 1815m.
Weather: Nice.
A quiet wind is blowing down from the summit of Tahtalı Dağı above us, the amazing cedar trees around unaffected. When we have packed together our tents and leaves Erenkolu Gediği, the sun is already standing tall on the sky. Beyond the hollow we camped in, the path moves down amongst the trees and us with it, uncertain of how far I will go today. After been at the top of Olympos, Melike feel satisfied by going to Yayla Kuzdere. For my own part, I feel that I should go farther; it is not far of a walk going there.
Erenkolu Gediği, the highest point of The Lycian Way.
We leave the highest point you can get to on the Lycian walk through Turkey, and since Tahtalı Dağı is situated where it is on the trail, it also feels like it is the first step on the conclusion of the trail. You have been to the top, now it is time to think about the homecoming. I have however still some days left. The first days on the walk feels quite distant now and I am happy that I chose not to give up. That I did not let the stomach and sleeping problems get the upper hand, in that morning at Pydnai.
Cedar trees, the path is to the left in the picture.
To step downwards is to enter beneath the cedar trees, underneath the leaves and branches separated in layers up into the trees. These trees, like me, feels more at home higher up. I would like to stay at this altitude, if for nothing else just to still be walking beneath these trees. After a short, but exciting walk down, we end up at the large plain of Çukur Yayla. From above, we could see a large herd of goats. In one end of the plain, but not the one we will pass through, there is an enclosed farm. The farmers are out working, fixing the roof of an outhouse.
Mount Olympos guarding above, on the way down towards Çukur Yayla.
The plain is dry, but the grass is still green. Grey and peculiar rocks are jutting up of it, like shark fins up of the ground. There are several nice places to pitch a tent here and there is supposed to be a water source nearby. On the other hand, you risk often being visited by goats and it is uncertain whether the people at the farm will be happy if you are camping here.
Above Çukur Yayla. In the background, Teke Dağı above the Kemer valley.
I see that I am leaving Melike behind here. We will however meet again later in the day; I have decided to only go to Yayla Kuzdere as well. Even though Gedelme would be a more logical terminus for the day. Melike has been a pleasant acquaintance and I enjoy her company. If I had continued further, this would probably be our last day together on the trail. There are few places to fast-track further on the trail here.
Melike crossing Çukur Yayla.
From the flat Çukur Yayla, the trail falls over the edge and descends steadily down. All the time with Tahtalı Dağı guarding above me, the mountainside becoming steeper and stepper. The summit itself is hidden behind another top, Göçükbaşı Tepe at 2304m. It goes in zigzags downwards. Through woods and alongside steep precipices with the source of the Kemer valley below. The trail passes a construction site for what looks like a big mansion, with a mosque. To get past it, I have to crouch past a fence.
View of the Kemer valley.
The path ends at a forest track that is followed for a while. Where the trail leaves the forest track to the right of the track, the waymarking does one of its antics and points to the left. This time, I do not let myself be fooled. A short stroll through a forest takes me to the upper part of Yayla Kuzdere. While I am walking on a road, a tourist in a car stops and asks me if I know where some well-known tombs are located. Where he got the idea that I could help with that, I do not know. I try to consult my map to see if it may be able to help him. The map is as much as help as I am.
The steep mountainside up towards Tahtalı Dağı.
Yayla Kuzdere seems like a small and sleepy village, but not without charm. Most of the houses is hidden behind the poplar and walnut trees. The mosque is all pale white. In winter, the village is usually abandoned. The nearest shop is in aforementioned Gedelme, a 10km away. Public transport does not exist. The village will be my place for the night.
A short visit on a forest track above Yayla Kuzdere, Teke Dağı in the background.
Melike and I agreed that we would go to Suleyman's pension and that I should arrange for a room for her as well. At the guesthouse, there is hectic activity, which also includes the neighbours, working with the harvest of today. For a short time, I can sit quiet outside and relax. Then a large group of youths from Hong Kong arrives and quietness is a bygone past. However, you could live with some hustle and bustle once in a while. Later, Melike arrives and it becomes apparent that they misunderstood me, and has placed Melike in the same room as me. There are no other rooms available, so the hosts moves in with the neighbours for the night and leaves their room for Melike. The dinner is a very tasty vegetarian dish.
Yayla Kuzdere Miraç Camii, the white mosque of Yayla Kuzdere with Olympos behind.
Rumours has come to my ears that a large section of the upcoming trail will be impassable, since there supposedly has been a large landslide or forest fire. On that point, the rumours were kind of vague. One of the guides of the group is however calming us down and tells us that it is only a short section and it will not be a problem. He explains and draws on a map. More disturbing is it that he tells us that he works on making an alternative trail of the Likya Yolu from Antalya. I see for myself that I suddenly finds myself on that trail instead of the original.
Flowers in the garden of Suleyman's Pansyion.
I got good time to relax here in Yayla Kuzdere, but both the place and the hosts here are nice. In addition, I am used to this being an easy walk. Though short, this day has been a great day, the climb up to the summit of Tahtalı Dağı / Mount Olympos is one of the highlights of the walk so far.
<- Tahtalı Dağı / Mount OlymposGölbastığı ->
No comments:
Post a Comment