Massiv // day 2 // Sandflofossen - Grøndalsvatni

Massiv day 2.
Distance: 30.2km (46.5km), time spent: 11:12 (15:19).
Ascent / descent: 877m (1603m) / 945m (1318m).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 1341m / 1273m / 1427m.
Weather: Changing, from sun and some overcast, to overcast, ligth rain and back again.

Some rain during the night makes sure that the tent is something wet in the morning by the time I get up. The morning itself, however, is free of water in the air and there are suggestions of a blue sky, though it is no less cooler for that sake. The breakfasts I have brought with me, is not as 'sumptuous' as my dinners, it consists of crispbread, a simple fare. I am glad that I do not have to pack up my equipment and tent in rain, but even if it does not drip from the sky, I cannot shake the tent completely dry, so it goes back into my backpack slightly wet and thus heavier.

Morning sky above Sandflofossen, just after leaving.

How far I go today depends mostly on the weather. I want to climb Hårteigen, so my plan is to walk in that direction, but it means little climbing to the top if it is shrouded in clouds. So I will decide what I do when I get to Litlos, where I can get a weather forecast. The most distinctive landmark on the western part of Hardangervidda is not situated on the trail, so this will mean a small deviation from Massiv if the weather holds.

View from Årmoteggi, down towards Dyredokk and further in the direction towards Hellevassbu you walk relatively steep down on snow.

To create something around the Massiv trail, DNT has introduced a so-called Massiv-passport, a small paper card where you can get a stamp for each cabin you pass on the trail. If you get a stamp for each cabin (stage) in one of the areas of the route, you can get a badge for the given area, five in total (one extra for completing the trail). By registering your passport on the homepage of the trail, you can by completing Massive be incorporated into the Hall of Fame. That is not so important for me really, but at Hellevassbu I get the second stamp in my pass (Haukeliseter being the first).

At Sudskar, where you look down upon Hellevassbu. Hellevassbu is a small and pleasant self serviced cabin located in a remote area.

Going to Hellevassbu from Haukeliseter, you will pass Simletindvatnet and Simletind. On my first solo hike, I was camping below Simletind. In the evening, I sat beneath the top and peered up against it, there was something very strange about the view, though I could not really put words on what was wrong with it. It was like the whole top was moving, but at the same time stood still, like something unfocused. Then I saw that it was a large herd of reindeer swarming around, it was something of a magical experience. No reindeer herd to see on this day, but the weather and walk to Hellevassbu have been nice. At the cabin, there are already a few guests, though it is still early in the day.

The path above Buadalen, before you go down towards Sigridtjørni.

The clouds above are denser when I walk to Litlos, where the approximately 16 kilometers to the cabin goes through a wild, desolate and rocky area. Although the mountains in Jotunheimen and Hurrungane are more spectacular, I feel, however, that I am in a more desolate and wild area than in those areas. It does not feel so overcrowded here as it is there (though there could be a lot of people in Hardangervidda as well), I meet few other hikers. Along the way, the sun and blue sky appears again for a brief visit, and in the horizon the distinct shape of Hårteigen is towering, before the clouds remember the overcast weather.

Another snow-dune on the way to Litlos. This one situated beneath Velurenuten. The lake in the foreground is Klerkatjønn, the lake in the background is Kvennsjøen. The distinct shape in the horizon is Hårteigen.

The bridge near the cottages at Søre Belebotnen.

To a tired walker, the last part of the walk to Litlos could be a little bit discouraging, you see the cabin long before you will get to it. When you see the buildings in the horizon, you will not see the lake that lies between you and the cabin at first. Then around one hour of walking follows, where you feel that you go and go without really getting any closer to your goal. Now I am fortunately not so tired. Litlos is one of the nicest cabins on Hardangervidda and it feels good to get inside in the warmth for a break.

Skadvassbekken with Holken behind. You pass by this river on the way to Grøndalsvatni (on the route towards Torehytten and Hårteigen).

The weather forecast for tomorrow is promising, supposedly similar weather as today, only warmer. Now with that sorted out, my plans for tomorrow is given. I sit in the cozy living room in Litlos overlooking the water for quite a while. Ends up having a cold beer, actually two, before I put on my backpack again and continue towards the looming figure of Hårteigen in the horizon. The clock has passed six in the afternoon when I leave, while others arrive at the cabin.

View down towards Mjølrakkerinden and Holken, the characteristic rock in the middle of the picture is Skadvassnuten.

Outside, the weather is kind of sultry, but it does not rain. Not until I put down my backpack at Grøndalsvatni to pitch my tent. Typical. About two hours after I left Litlos, I feel that it is ok to stop walking for the evening. There are several good camping spots just where the trail crosses the outlet of the lake, though the ground is wet. For someone, it would be tempting to test their luck with the fishing rod in the lake, but I left my fishing rod behind at home.

Hårteigen dominates the horizon the closer I get to it.

What little of rain that arrived has fortunately stopped when it is time to prepare dinner outside in the evening. Today, it is a meat stew that forms the basis of the dish, as yesterday, I will add a lot of minced meat, and the side 'orders' will be barley salad. The dinner is served with a nice view and chilly temperature. A colored rim is forming between the mountains and clouds when the sun call it the day.

Campsite at Grøndalsvatni.

To creep into my sleeping bag after sitting outside and cooling down for a little bit too long, feels good, to feel the warmth creep back into the body. At the same time it does make you drowsy after having been outside almost all the day. I like to have some time to relax and calm down after walking, but I do not have too much of a time at my disposal before sleep gets the upper hand (which is of course also a way to relax and calm down on). Reading a little in the light from my headlamp makes time go by, I have brought with me some good Spanish licor de café (coffee liqueur) to enjoy in my tent before I go to sleep.

Map of the trail for the second day on Massiv, from Sandflofossen to Grøndalsvatni past Litlos.

<- SandflofossenHårteigen - Litlos ->

Massiv // day 1 // Haukeliseter - Sandflofossen

Massiv day 1.
Distance: 16.3km (16.3km), time spent: 4:07 (4:07).
Ascent / descent: 726m (726m) / 373m (373m).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 988m / 1341m / 1378m.
Weather: Overcast but stable in the beginning, then rain and a lot of wind, overcast in the evening.

Massiv is a new long distance trail made by the Norwegian trekking association, Den Norske Turistforening (DNT). It has been given its name since it is going through four massive mountain areas in Norway, massive and iv. The trail begins at Sota Sæter from where it passes through Breheimen, Jotunheimen, Skarvheimen and Hardangervidda where it ends at Haukeliseter, it is about 350km long. This summer, my plan was to go on a walkabout on Hardangervidda and finally get to the top of Hårteigen. I have wanted to climb that mountain so many times, but I have never got to do it. Then the thought of hiking the Massiv trail hit me.

Homemade vacuum-packed dinner for my hike. Four bags of minced meat that I have fried and dried, four bags of basis for a stew (from the shop) and four bags of barley salad.

However, when I checked the timetable for the bus from Oslo to Dønfoss bridge for today (Monday), it was not exactly many seats available, in fact there were none. I considered taking the night bus, although I am not very enthusiastic about sitting up during the night unable to sleep, something I cannot do on a bus. Sota Sæter is located about 30 kilometres from where the bus stops. There is a taxi service available, which on certain days only charges a bus fare for the ride. Not today. I have to pay the usual taxi fare for the ride. Since I had to take a night bus and pay about thousand (Norwegian) kroner (NOK) to get to Sota Sæter, I have instead chosen to reverse the route and start from Haukeliseter. That way, I get to do a walkabout on Hardangervidda after all. I have a week available, it should suffice to get me to Finse.

From the start of my hike on Massiv, on the ascent from Haukeliseter. The trail originally begins from Sota Sæter going southwards, but I have chosen to reverse the route and walk it from here. I will only go for one week, which will allow me to complete the Hardangervidda-section of the trail. Overcast in the beginning, but dark clouds are threatening.

The bus going to Haukeliseter (Haukeliekspressen) is not arriving until around half past three, so there will be a late start for me. After a small but good meal and two beers(?), I begin walking. My first hike alone in the mountains also started here from the DNT cabin at Haukeliseter, I remember that the ascent from the cabin felt like an eternal climb. It has become easier over the years.

View over Loftsdokktjønn, still small glimpses of blue sky are visible.

The sky is overcast at the start of the hike, many clouds, in the horizon they are dark, but no rain. It is nice weather for walking, but when I am at the top of the pass below Vesle Nup, before going down towards Mannevatn, rain is coming. With the low temperature, rain and wind, the walk now makes me feel chilly. The rain takes a break down by Mannvatn, but towards Holmasjøen it picks up again. On my said first hike, I camped down by the lake, then it was sunny and warm, now it is anything but that.

Dark clouds above Haukeliseter when I am on my way into the wilderness, with rain clearly visible above the DNT cabin alongside the E134.

The rain finally came when I was below Vesle Nup, for a short while, everything of view in the mountains were grey and imprenetable. Gusty and cold.

I do not have all the time in the world today, due to the late start. When I arrive at the small bridge that crosses the river above Sandflofossen, I call it the day, with the clock being a quarter past eight. There will still be bright for some time, but I want to have some time in the evening to relax. Back home, my first thought was that I should be able to get to Simletindvatnet, but then I saw that reaching Holmasjøen would be more realistic, this was a reasonable compromise. Not only due to the time. At Holmasjøen, the wind was blowing fiercely, but after the lake you cross a hill. On the other side of the hill, where I have stopped, there is shelter from the wind. I have been out for four hours and managed to walk about 16 kilometers, I should feel content with it.

Holmasjøen, planned to stop and camp at this lake, but despite the dark clouds it is still bright enough to be able to proceed further. In addition, the wind was blowing sharply and camping in shelter from the wind is preferable.

Fortunately, the rain has subsided for the moment when I find a place to pitch my tent, but the ground is wet all over. The walk from Haukeliseter was still nice, in spite of the weather. I have hiked here several times, this being one of my favorite mountain areas in Norway. And I especially enjoy it here in this part of the plateau, which is the western part of Hardangervidda, this part feels more wild and rugged than the eastern part.

Pitch black on the other side of Holmasjøen, and a fierce wind.

The biggest problem that I find with Massiv, is that the trail looks planned to pass by as many as possible of the staffed cabins. That is all very well in its own way, spending an evening and a night at one of DNT's staffed cabins in the mountains is a luxury, but for those who want to camp (like me), it poses a small problem. Food. The route passes by very few self-served cabins, where it is possible to buy provisions on the way. Another thing is that it is expensive in the long run to stay at the staffed cabins, considering accommodation, the three-course dinner, breakfast and packed lunch. Not to mention if you have a crawing for wine or beer. I do not want to carry food for a whole week, so I will base myself on two stays in cabins along the way (the cabins in mind are Litlos and Krækkja).

Satisfied with the walk, even though it is windy, gusty and cold. On my way across a hill towards Sandflofossen, during a break in the rain.

My campsite above Sandflofossen.

I have carried dinner for four nights in my backpack. Not a commercial freeze-dried food like Real turmat that you get here in Norway, or something like that. This time, I have prepared my own food. Fried and dried minced meat, which I have vacuum-packed together with corn and pineapple. Four bags. Then I split up two bags of stew basis that you get from the store, into four bags. In addition, I vacuum-packed a barley salad for each dinner.
I prepare my first dinner on my hike, while I am sitting outside and freezing a little. It is chilly and definitely not warm in the mountains now. I start by cooking up my casserole, in which I have put water and one of the bags of stew basis, before I mix into one of the bags of minced meat, served with salad. It works great and the food tastes really good (though, almost everything tastes good when you are in the mountains and are hungry), the view while eating is also quite nice.

Dinner in the evening, my homemade food felt just as good as the hiking food I get from the sports store. A pasta stew with a lot of minced meat, together with a barley salad.

When I have crawled into my tent, the rain returns, though only a light drizzle. After a long bus ride from Oslo to Haukeliseter and a hike in varying weather, I am too sleepy to stay awake for long. A warmness spreads in my body after tucking my self into my sleeping bag, which does not help when it comes to stay awake. Rain drums lightly on the canvas, from outside, I can hear the roar of the river, my eyes slowly closes.

Map of the trail for the first day on Massiv, from Haukeliseter to Sandflofossen.

Grøndalsvatni ->

Camino Inglés & Camino Muxia

Camino Ingles is the route that the pilgrims coming from Great Britain and the northern countries in Europe, like Norway, normally would use when they were going to Santiago de Compostela on a pilgrimage. They then come across the sea to either A Coruna or Ferrol and for them the hardest and toughest part of the journey would likely be over when they made landfall in mentionied cities to continue their walk on foot. The English Way is also given its name since it was the route that the English soldiers used when the ran from Napoleon's forces. From A Coruna there are 73km to Santiago, which makes the pilgrims walking from here not qualified for the Compostela. The normal point to start from is therefore Ferrol, where there are 119km to the Praza do Obradoiro.

Camino Muxia is a variant of Camino Finisterre, where you instead of walking to Finisterre choose to go to Muxia. As it is for Camino Finistere you walk on this trail with the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela at your back. The routes separates at Hospital. The trail is about 84km long and ends at the church of Santuario de la Virgen de La Barca which is situated with the ocean at its front doors.

In the Summer of 2016, I travelled to Spain to walk the Camino Inglés and Camino Muxia, this is my story from the Camino.

Dag 1 (29.06):Ferrol - Pontedeume

Dag 2 (30.06):Pontedeume - Betanzos

Dag 3 (01.07):Betanzos - Hospital de Bruma

Dag 4 (02.07):Hospital de Bruma - Santiago de Compostela

Dag 5 (03.07):Santiago de Compostela - Vilaserio

Dag 6 (04.07):Vilaserio - Dumbria

Dag 7 (05.07):Dumbria - Muxia

Camino Ingles & Muxia @ 12:00

Camino Muxia // day 7 // Dumbria - Muxia

Camino Muxia day 7.
Distance: 20.1km (206.7km), time spent: 7:16 (60:56).
Weather: Overcast and gloomy, then nice weather in the afternoon and evening.

Outside the albergue, the wind has blown all night, bringing with it clouds from the ocean, we wake up to a heavy blanket above us and the exit doors closed. So, someone has been here after all after we went to bed last night, no one here now, only the pilgrims who have not left yet. Yesterday we bought a big bag of small croissants and small packets of jam for breakfast, a small imitation of the Spanish breakfast you get at the bars down here. Then we exit through the back door and go out under the grey sky for our last day on the Camino.

Gloomy scenery in the first part of today's walk, here across the fields towards the hills in the horizon, before Senande.

From Dumbria there are about twenty kilometres to Muxia, where we will go from the quite remote inland and out to the maw of the sea. On the way, the Camino changes between going on asphalt roads, forest roads and wide gravel paths. Around us, the landscape changes from forest, with a predominance of eucalyptus trees, to cultivated fields and acres, to rolling hills coloured grey by the weather, and to small villages, farms and hamlets. There is no shortage of the usual landmarks such as churches, crosses, abandoned houses and the fascinating horreos (most of the ones here is built in stone) on the way.

Three usual landmarks on the Camino, a horreo, a cruceiro (cross) and a bell tower.

After six kilometres, we have walked in a silent world and arrived in Senande, seeing no evidence of others along the way. Outside of the few houses we passed by, the dogs were sleepy and unaffected. The ridges in the horizon rest beneath the grey blankets. The melancholy mood is quite suitable for the day, it is our last day on the Way and it feels a little bit sad. The hunger is not completely sated after just a week on the road.

A gigantic horreo outside the monastery of San Martino de Ozon, it needs 22 pair of legs to keep it up.

I often feel that there is an odd discrepancy between the size of the place and the numbers of bars in some villages in Spain, a village may be tiny but still have three bars, as here in Senande. How they manage to get it to go around is something that I often wonder about (that a Camino goes through the village helps of course). We are adding at least some tiny bit of income to the owner of the first bar we come to, Bar A Coxa; he serves the cafe con leche together with a couple of fake eggs. While we are sitting and enjoying our coffee, the first pilgrims that we see since leaving Dumbria is appearing. Among them there are also some who did not stayed in Dumbria and must have gone from Logoso or perhaps all the way from Olveiroa.

Inside San Martino de Ozon, there are no longer monks that are living here; this is the common room to the more alternative micro-society of the place.

After Senande, the Camino is the same as it was before Senande. On the signposts for the various small villages that we come to, there is in addition to the name of the village, also the scallop sign. In the horizon towards the ocean, there is a glimpse beneath the clouds where we can see blue sky, hopefully this means that we might arrive in Muxia in sunny weather.

Camino Muxia buildings and scenery.

Standing outside the old monastery of San Martino de Ozon is the largest horreo I have ever seen down here, it stands on no less than an impressive 22 pair of legs. It is a long time since the monastery has been used for clerical purposes, although those who inhabit it now are also living a life a little bit on the outside of society, as the monks did here at one time. Having looked at the forge, workshop, the back of the monastery and the church next to it, we move on. And arrive at the entrance to the monastery.

We went down to this beach that lies between Merexo and Moraime to eat lunch, the waves and the current was too big to go for a swim.

The monastery is now consisting of a small and alternative micro-society. When we enter through the gate, people are working in the garden. We do not trespass by entering, there is sign outside that welcomes people in and outside it was advertised that you could get a stamp in your credentials, tea, vegetarian food and other things. One of the free spirited people living here greets us and shows us briefly around inside, we accept a cup of tea. Made of mint picked from the garden outside. Two other pilgrims, a Frenchman and an American who also was in Dumbria, comes while we sit and rest in the garden. It is relaxing here, but at the same one feels a bit on the outside.

Muxia and the end of our Camino in sight.

From San Martino de Ozon, we walk through yet another small village, through a pleasant forest and then the sight of the ocean greets us in Merexo. Now that we are close to the sea, we go down and find a sandy beach. From where we can see the promontory that Muxia is at the tip of, but we cannot yet see the town itself. We eat lunch on the beach; we still have many croissants from the breakfast left. While the waves breaks against the sand, we enjoy a cold beer and Kjetil takes a quick nap. There are too much waves and the current in the water looks too strong to tempt us to go for a swim. The French pilgrim shows up and wants to try, but he also appears to give up trying. Back on the road, we meet the two other free spirited pilgrims again, who wonder if they could get down to the beach.

The waves crashing on the rocks out on the tip of Punta del Barca, below Santuario de la Virgen de la Barca, only the ocean left to journey across.

The end is near, Muxia is near, and with it the great ocean as well. Where I thought the Camino follow the promontory around to Muxia, it instead climb up into the hill after Moraime and its stern but nice church. Up on the hill, we pass a small chapel and get the first sight of the houses of Muxia. Down by the sea, the wind is blowing quite fresh, you can choose to either walk along the water's edge or take a country road around. We choose to walk on the boardwalk next to the sea with a view towards Muxia and the ocean behind. It actually blows so hard that sand stings our eyes when get on the road in to the small town, across the road lies small sand dunes. We have arrived at the Way's end, above us it is now a blue sky with some clouds.

Muxia from Monte Corpiño at sunset. Muxia is a more quiet and calm town than Finisterre and I probably like it better here.

Strictly speaking, we are not really finished with our walk until we are out on the headland where the last waymarker-stone stands with Santuario de la Virgen de la Barca and the ocean in the background. Before we go out there, though, we find ourselves a bed in the Bela Muxia albergue and spend some time relaxing. I am very satisfied to get to spend the afternoon and evening here in Muxia, which I wanted to the previous year but could not. Going out to the sea, we walk over Monte Corpiño; from the top, we can see out over Muxia on one side and out over the ocean on the other. Muxia lies much more exposed to the weather than Finisterre, which characterizes the houses facing the sea (I have seen a picture of the Santuario de la Virgen de la Barca with huge waves crashing into the front of the church).

Sunset at Muxia.

A pleasant surprise is that the church is open when we arrive at the tip of the promontory, so that we can see how it looks inside, we even get a stamp in our pilgrim credentials. Down by the ocean, waves crashes against the rocks, we climb out on one of the outermost rocks and get to taste the salt water in the mouth when a big wave crashes close to us. With slightly wet clothes, we sit down by the small lighthouse and enjoy the nice weather and that we have arrived, a simple celebration with cold beer and chips.

The Muxiella, as in Finisterre, you can also get a document acknowledging that you have walked to Muxia.

In the afternoon, we eat bacalao at a local restaurant located at the quay in Muxia after a tip from the hospitaleros at Bela Muxia (there are not many places here that serves bacalao apparently). It tastes very good, but it is also very different from the bacalao I am used from back home, here we only get the fish with potatoes (both well-salted). There are mostly local people at the place. Afterwards, we run up to the top of Monte Corpiño again to see the sunset, we reach it just in time. The ocean is on fire and we can look back on a nice Camino from sea to sea (Ferrol to Muxia).

The various stamps/sellos in my pilgrims credential for the Camino from Santiago de Compostela to Muxia.

<- Dumbria

Camino Muxia // day 6 // Vilaserio - Dumbria

Camino Muxia day 6.
Distance: 30.8km (186.6km), time spent: 9:18 (53:40).
Weather: Sunny, some clouds later in the day.

To follow in your own footsteps is easy; you know where to go and what you will get to see. Luckily, we stop following my footsteps during this day, so I will be back again to what I like, walking with the excitement of not knowing what awaits me around the next corner. When we come to Hospital later today, we will turn right towards Muxia where I before have been led to the left beneath a grey sky without any contrasts at all. There is just one albergue between Hospital and Muxia, so we go there today.

A Camino waymarker-stone at a scenic location between Cornado and Maronas.

Last year, the area after Vilaserio looked desolate and remote, with the weather being the obvious reason, which I knew then as well. Now that the weather is fine, the sky is blue and the sun shines, the impression is something else entirely. Green lush meadows and fields, a culture landscape, and visible farms and small villages. They were there the last time also, but almost made a disappearing act in the desolate weather. It is almost like experiencing two different places, although they are the same.

The road to Vilar do Castro, a worn information board told us that there was an old castle or fortress on the top of the hill behind the village. We tried to get up, but was waved down by some local farmers.

We are off again at eight o'clock in the morning; I had breakfast in the restaurant, while Kjetil chose to wait. Walking on tarmac in the beginning, before the sun enters the stage, later the surface changes to various forest roads towards Santa Mariña. We are puzzled by a coat of arms that we see on a signpost, where a bridge is split in two by rays from a red star, on one side of the bridge stands a black night, on the other side there is a red cross. It is a pleasant walk in the morning hours. Water is flowing unceasingly from the fountain in Cornado.

A girl went past the bar in Vilaserio during breakfast, now we pass her while she take a break in the sunshine. She was up early, as she enjoy the time she get to herself when walking alone. From where she sit, the view is a pleasant cultural landscape. Last year it was grey here, now it is green. The biggest problem for my part on the walk now, is really my own feeling that I take too much pictures. Kjetil has to wait several times for me as I take pictures of almost everything, life through a lens, while I quite ridiculous becomes slightly annoyed by always getting a yellow backpack in the frame. Taking pictures of the routes I go, documenting, has nevertheless been an important part of my walks and something I will struggle to stop doing.

Mirador do Corzón, view back towards the hill the Camino goes around (Vilar do Castro is just on the other side of the hill). To get up here, you have to leave the Camino after passing through the village of Lago. There is a nice view in all directions from the viewpoint.

In Santa Mariña, I have to persuade Kjetil to eat breakfast, so we go down to Casa Pepa for him to eat and to get a coffee for me. There are no places to get food after Santa Mariña until you get do Ponte Olveira (Casa Pepa is not the only place in the village, but the albergue is situated in a more quiet spot than the two places that are located next to the road. In Vilar do Castro, we find out that it must have been an old stone fortress or castle on the hill above the village, we make an effort to get up, but are met by two local farmers who shepherds us down and insist that we cannot get up from here. This part of the route is nice and pleasant, but we would have preferred that the route crossed over the hill instead (for the views).

San Cristovo de Corzón.

We make another attempt to get us up to higher ground afterwards, but give up when the road we tries is beginning to bear downwards again. When we later look across to the road we tried, we see that we gave up just before a dirt road takes off from the road, which leads upwards to the cliffs on the top of the hill. As a remedy, we go up to the same ridge that I climbed up to last year. Clouds have begun to populate the sky now, and it feels a little bit as last year, except that there are no rain in the horizon. We are still both pleased by this excursion to the Mirador de Corzón. I wonder if there are other pilgrims that are heading up here, most seem too busy just to follow where the yellow arrows leads. That may probably be more than enough for many people though, any additional detours requires too much perhaps.

When we arrive in Olveiroa, it is time for lunch, so we take a break. Next time I walk the Camino Finisterre, I have to stay here, it is a pleasant small village and the municipal albergue looks nice. I had a great time when I walked between Olveiroa and Logoso last year, when the weather was grey and I had the feeling that I was wandering in a wasteland. Brighter weather today, the walk is different, but still great. Kjetil has however picked up his pace and I am struggling to keep up with him, he hurries past the wind turbines, the river below and the modern bridge and then suddenly we are in Logoso.

Waymarker outside Olveiroa.

Outside the small and cosy albergue, there are already several pilgrims sitting and relaxing, including one from Austria that we met in Vilaserio. In the end, we do not let the chance to sit down and enjoy the sun and a few cold beers get away from us. I can now see the hill with the windmills on the top from here, where last year all I could see was a grey wall. We spend some time talking with the Austrian, before we head off again; we still have about ten kilometres left to go.

Murals in Olveiroa.

Walking in this part is more exciting now, as I now can look further into the horizon. Up by Hospital, I notice a quite distinct mountain ridge that clearly stands out from the rest of the landscape to the south of us. With the better visibility, some ugly buildings that looks like a factory of a kind appears and spoils the walk a tiny bit. Then we come to where the routes split up and we will go to the right and Muxia. If I change my mind now and decide to go to Finisterre instead, we will have to go all the way to Cee to get a place to stay for night, but then I would get to see the ocean view that I missed last year.

To Dumbria, the Camino follows the road for a while, through an open landscape with little vegetation, before a waymarker-stone directs us off the road and into the undergrowth. Now I am back to wondering what awaits me around the next corner. The trail is a pleasant walk until As Carizas, where we pass by two pilgrims that has clearly found something in common on the Camino. There were also in Vilaserio when we got there yesterday, but continued further. I suppose they are a little bit more free-spirited according to where they spend the nights, nothing wrong by that. I wonder if we should not arrive in Dumbria soon and then we are suddenly there.

At Hospital, the landscape is more open, in the background you can see a distinct mountain ridge that stands out from the rest of the landscape.

The albergue is the first building you come to when you arrive in Dumbria and I knew in an instant that we had arrived when I saw the building, not only by the appearance, the laundry outside the building gives away a lot. The building is of an architecture that looks quite fresh and modern when it is new, but feels worn out after a few years of use, with different colours on the different parts of the building. There is no hospitalero at the albergue, outside there is a note where it is written that we can just find ourselves a bed and arrange the formalities later. There are more pilgrims here than expected, but there is no problem finding a free bed for the night, we share the dormitory with a mother and son from Korea. Otherwise, the albergue looks nice and modern inside.

The waymarker-stone indicating where the Camino Finisterre splits and the routes to either Finisterre or Muxia is going. Oddly enough, the scallops points in the same direction for both the alternatives. We are now taking the right turn towards Dumbria and Muxia.

When we later go through Dumbria to find a place to get food, it looks like an almost deserted village. It is absolutely quiet in the streets (more like the only street). All the bars we see and pass by are closed. A strange mood. Is the village in the process of being abandoned? Are the villagers hiding from the scary pilgrims? Outside the school, the fence posts are dyed in the colours of the rainbow, children of the rainbow and there are no one there (though it is school holiday). We finally find the local store, thinking that we can buy some food to cook in the albergue, but struggles to find something suitable and easy to make.

The Camino towards Dumbria and Muxia.

It turns out that there is also a restaurant attached to the store (Meson O'Argentino) and when we asked about dinner, we are ushered into a small and hidden part of the place. Here we learns the whereabouts of the pilgrims that we could not account for at the albergue, they are here eating. The dinner we are served is actually not bad, it is actually quite good and it is a lot of food. Two large cutlets each with a lot of potato chips, after we have eaten a large portion of sopa de gallego.

In Dumbria, the Santa Eulalia church in the village.

Clouds have unnoticed taken over the sky. Back at the albergue, there is still no sign of the hospitalero. We sit outside in one of the terraces in the albergue and relax with a couple of beers. Outside, the wind has begun to blow, howling half-heartedly through the trees. It has been a good walk from Vilaserio today. Dumbria feels a little odd, but that may also very well be the reason why I like it here, these small and strange places my walks brings me to. While the trees sways in the wind, the last night on the Camino slowly comes closer. Still no one has showed up when we go to bed.

<- VilaserioMuxia ->

Camino Muxia // day 5 // Santiago de Compostela - Vilaserio

Camino Muxia day 5.
Distance: 32.6km (155.8km), time spent: 9:11 (44:22).
Weather: Nice and warm.

Above Santiago de Compostela the sky are beginning to brighten, although it is early in the morning the first pilgrims of the day has already taken their last steps on the Camino and arrived at Praza do Obraidoiro. We could hear the clicking of the hiking poles against the cobblestones outside in the morning. From them, the walk may be over; to us, this day marks the start of a new route, the Camino Muxia. I have twice walked the Camino Finisterre from Cee, so this time I want to take the route that goes directly to Muxia after Hospital. Negreira was not really a place of my liking, now I have thought that we continue towards Vilaserio instead.

In the morning, sunlight streams through the streets of Santiago de Compostela behind us.

Crossing Praza do Obraidoiro in the morning is the very opposite of yesterday, at the large space it is completely empty of people and it is silent. We find some pilgrims in a small café in the streets just below the cathedral (the same street as the new pilgrim's office are located in), they eat breakfast after completing their Camino, and we eat breakfast to start our second part. When we go through the last streets of Santiago, sunlight streams down through them.

Just outside of Santiago, we can look back and watch the spires of the cathedral and churches in Santiago rising towards the sky.

I have walked the Camino Finisterre before, so I know what awaits us, at least until Hospital. I remember that the walk to Negreira was pleasant until you cross beneath the highway just before the town; from there it was not that exciting, and fortunately it is not so long of a walk before you arrive in Negreira. There have been no changes since last year that I can see, except that the hotel at Ponte Maceira (which has a wonderful sello and a good burger) is not open yet when we get there. A small tent that stood in the outskirts of Santiago now has got another tent as a neighbour.

Kjetil walking on the wonderful old bridge in Ponte Maceira.

The route is still just as pleasant; the biggest difference from last year is that we now meet more pilgrims than I did last year, especially pilgrims who walk in the opposite direction. One of those we meet walking towards Santiago, is a pilgrim with bright and blond, partly braided hair. With heavy and distinct steps, he pounds onwards, his face stern and tense, like a Viking. Kjetil salute him as he passes us, which are just answered by an abrupt and rancid 'ssssssshhh', someone clearly has a bad day. During the rest of our journey, this shush becomes the source of much amusement; I almost consider answering the same to a random pilgrim we will meet, just to see how the reaction will be. The funniest meeting on the walk.

A sort of a shy Camino waymarker-stone trying to hide behind a tree, after Ponte Maceira. Some have had enough of his boots and left them beh ind, a typical sight on a Camino.

As last year, we take a break in Augapesada; the bar looks the same since last time, the pilgrims different. I notices more often the milestones that indicates the number of kilometres left to Muxia now. This time, I actually get a stamp in my pilgrim credential from the bar in Trasmonte (Casa Pancho), which I did not get last year. It is a pity that there is not an albergue in Ponte Maceira, so beautiful the small village with the magnificent bridge is. I think I would have enjoyed sitting out here in the evening.

Church outside Negreira.

The town of Negreira is more full of life than it was the last time, maybe it is a market here on Sundays. There is a huge commotion when we sit and eat lunch, so many cars that the local police have to go out and direct, the police whistle is somewhat enervating. The large bocadillos with lomo (pig) and a large, cold cerveza con lemon however more than make up for it. I still cannot explain why I decided to stay here and not proceed further last year, but the weather is great and I will now walk over to Vilaserio in nice weather as opposite to my previous Camino here.

Time has stood still in this bar in Zas for a while.

Where I last year walked over the hill towards Vilaserio in a grey weather, there were several places with poor visibility, today I could see small farms and roads emerge at places I could not see then. The woods are also brighter, not so weighed down, more life, but not so melancholic. I have mentioned that I like to walk in melancholic settings, so even though the weather did not appear at its best last year I had a good walk then.

End of ze world zis way.

The bar in Zas was not opened last year, or I just walked blindly past it in the fog, but it is now. It is a classic example of a place where time seems to have stood still, amusing, coca-cola break. It is written in my guidebook that there should be a pilgrim-friendly bar in A Peña, I did not find it last year, now they have taken the consequences of it and drawn yellow arrows on the ground, as well as signposts that displays the way to the bar (and new albergue). We follow the arrows up, take a beer in the heat, follow the arrows down and continue on the Camino towards Vilaserio.

These tall trees that looks like overgrown vegetables (like dill) never ceases to amaze me.

We arrive in Vilaserio, the only sight of other pilgrims after Negreira was another one that we could see walking a little ahead of us. To get a bunk at the albergue there, O Rueiro, was not difficult, there are not that many others here, most finish their walk in Negreira. Vilaserio is not large, but it has everything one needs, clean, neat and with a restaurant and bar for food and drink. I make use of the opportunity to wash and dry my clothes in the washer and dryer at the albergue.

Looking out over a cultural landscape from the walk over the ridge to Vilaserio.

There is also a very basic municipal albergue in the outskirts of the small village (hamlet more or less), some of those who stay there are here for beer and food. It is hot and we relax outside the albergue, take a walk in the afternoon, where the local farmers herds the cows. Negreira is bigger, but it is nicer here.

Albergue O Rueiro in Vilaserio.

Today in the morning, I received at last some good news regarding our baggage. The airline had found our backpacks and they were now at the airport in A Coruna. The problem however, is that neither of us are there anymore, and we will not get there later in our journey either. By calling Vueling I get, after waiting for a long time, arranged that they will send them to the airport in Santiago de Compostela. Then it only remains to see if it is true, when we travel back home again.

We eat dinner inside in the restaurant, later France against Iceland is shown on the tv, it does not goes Iceland's way. Today was quite similar to my first day on the Camino Finisterre last year, fair weather and a pleasant walk, but continuing to Vilaserio was a far better choice. I am pleased that I get to walk from Negreira in nice weather, then I got to see this route in both types of weather.

<- Santiago de CompostelaDumbria ->