Shikoku Henro Michi // day 9 // Kaifu - Ozaki

Shikoku 88 Temples Pilgrimage, day 9.
Temples: None.
Distance: 35.6km (244.1km), time spent: 9:54.
Weather: Hot and sunny.

Today I will leave Tokushima Prefecture and enter Kochi Prefecture. Kochi Prefecture is by many referred to as the hardest prefecture to walk through on the pilgrimage, since there are often long distances between the temples. Crossing this border does not only mean that I will have longer to walk from one temple to another, I will also enter the Place of Ascetic Training (Shugyō dōjō). Tokushima was the Place of Spiritual Awakening (Hosshin dōjō). It is an interesting aspect, as I am not religious in any way or a Buddhist, but still feel this purpose of getting to a temple. My awakening of a sort.

Morning sun over the Pacific.

At Minshuku Kaifu, I awake to a clear sky, it will be a hot day. I eat breakfast together with Yujin and Yumiko, they will travel back to Mitoyo City today and so only walk a short section. I get an orange juice and an energy bar from Matsuo-san before going on the road again. Walking next to a narrow bay after Kaifu, I wish I had woken up and gotten away earlier. It would have been a marvellous sunrise with the sun rising up from behind the ocean.

Path through the ferns on the way over Kome Pass.

I had seen other henros around me almost all the time since I begun walking in the morning, but they are all taking the Mitoko tunnel after Shishikui. I begin to feel like the outsider here, the one that always does the other thing, that no one else does. There is a path going over Kome Pass, of course I decide to hike over that pass. I find it strange that most (or all) will choose walking through a noisy tunnel rather than a peaceful walk in the nature, even if it is longer. Well, maybe I should not blame them, I have not been happy with all my excursions either, with the spiders and all.

At the top of Kome Pass.

The small fishing village of Kannoura with Kome Pass behind.

Strangely enough, there are no spiderwebs crossing over this path though. Even in the places of the path that are overgrown. At the start, the path is almost not discernible through the undergrowth. Walking upwards, my feet disappears into the ferns, feeling an anticipation of what hopefully is not there. The top of Kome Pass is marked by a statue that misses its head. Here I enter Kochi Prefecture. The vegetation thickens on my way down, stairs of stone disappering into them.

Ninjas adorning this bridge after Kannoura.

I emerge out of the path to a lovely small fishing village called Kannoura, with the buildings surrounding a small harbour. Surprising me with its authenticity. I notice the bridges I walk across, they are often adorned with engravings, paintings or ornaments, all nice touches. Today, I have come by a surfer, a whale, oranges, and ninjas. I return once again to Route 55.

Walking past a shrine named Myōtokuji (Toyō Daishi).

The next section of the walk sees me soon walking ever so close to the sea. This part of the trail is nicknamed the Gorogoro-ishi section, due to the earlier days when there were no roads and the pilgrims had to walk on the slippery and dangerous rocks next to the shore. Gorogoro means rumbling sound and ishi means rocks, together forming the sound that gave name to this area. Now, the cars passing by are providing the danger you meet on the way, unless you choose to walk on the rocks as the old henros did.

The coastline towards Cape Muroto-Misaki, at the beginning of the Gorogoro-ishi section.

Mostly a day of just walking, but the walking is nice. With good views of the coastline, passing by surfing places, monkeys in the trees, small shrines and quiet sojourns underneath trees. In the water and on the beaches are surfers eagerly awaiting the next wave. And of course, each step takes me closer to the next temple.

A torii at the foot of a small path leading to a tiny shrine.

Announcing the end of my walk is the sight of three standing rocks called Meoto Rock (Couple Rock). Another issue when you do not speak or read Japanese, is that you sometimes find it difficult to find the place you are supposed to stay at. I solve that by looking at the phonenumber, they are usually displayed on the signboards as well. At Lodge Ozaki I get a splendid room, with a balcony that overlooks the Pacific Ocean. When evening descends, the sky turns almost purple.

Evening at Ozaki.

Also staying at Lodge Ozaki are Naomi, a young Japanese woman, Koh from Singapore, and two Japanese men. One is doing the pilgrimage by car, so I probably will not be seeing him again. The other one is somewhat strange to me, after we say hello to each other, he sort of ignores me. We also met earlier today, also then did he wave me away after saying hello. He also has a problem with his feet. Naomi and Koh are nice talking to though. Dinner is good, but I have big problems managing to eat a whole fish using only the chopsticks, I feel like I am massacring the fish rather than eating it.

Tomorrow, the temple drought will end. From here it is between 15 and 20km to Cape Muroto-misaki where you find Hotsumisakiji, the first temple in Kochi.

The dinner at Lodge Ozaki, good, but I have trouble eating a whole fish using the chopsticks.

<- KaifuKongōchōji ->

Shikoku Henro Michi // day 8 // Hiwasa - Kaifu

Shikoku 88 Temples Pilgrimage, day 8.
Temples: None.
Distance: 36.3km (208.5km), time spent: 10:18.
Weather: Sunny, rainy, sunny.

I had been told that it usually takes about 40 to 45 days to do the pilgrimage, and one should estimate walking about 30km each day in average. In order to follow my own progress underway, I found a 40 days itinerary for the walk on the internet. With no intention of following it strictly though. So far, I have had only one day where I walked about 30km, so I know that at one point I needed to step up the distances walked. Today became that day. In fact, from Yakuōji there are actually around 76km to the next temple, so this was also the first day without visiting any of the pilgrimage temples.

Which is not entirely true, as I actually do visit Yakuōji again before leaving Hiwasa. Maybe I just needed a temple refueling before embarking on the long 'dry' period ahead. Or it might be that it is just a nice temple.

Sunrise from my room at Umigame-sō.

Hiwasa and the castle seen from Yakuōji.

Today, I had woken up to a fine sunrise outside my windows overlooking the beach and sea. And it was still nice weather when I left Hiwasa. I was in serious doubt in what to do, or where to go actually. Just south of Hiwasa there is a 18km scenic road that goes to Mugi called the Minami-awa Sun Line. That way is neither the official or an alternative route of the pilgrimage, but from what I have read it was supposed to be a very nice walk. Taking that route however, means breaking another one of my purist rules. With the walk from the previous year fresh in memory, I decided to challenge myself and take the coastal way. The waymarking on the GR1 Sendero Historico was at times so bad that I was forced to take alternative routes.

Looking down at the scenery below from a bridge on the Minami-awa Sun Line.

To get the noteworthy parts of the road, I first have to walk up a valley after Hiwasa, it is all road if you choose to go this way, and then through a tunnel. The views are wonderful when I first arrive at the point where I can look out over the ocean, although the blue sky has at that time been replaced by clouds. Even with the loss of the sunny weather, the walk is great and I marvel at the sight of the cliffs, coves and islands with the Pacific Ocean as background. The view of the horizon I am heading towards on the other hand is not so good, from there dark clouds are speeding to meet me and on the last hour or so before Mugi the road changes name to the Minami-awa Rain Line. Rain is hammering down on me and the small islands out on the sea are dropping in and out of existence.

View of the cliffs, called Senba Kaigai, islands and coves from the Minami-awa Sun Line.

Rain passing by over the landscape and ocean, with the vegetation appear to tighten close together in this weather.

Reaching the small town of Mugi, the rain has abated, and I go straight to the nearest convenience store for a hot cup of coffee. Other henros trudge by in their ponchos, soaked, the official route going inland did not escape the torrent either. I doubt their views were any better than mine. From Mugi they will also be walking next to the ocean. Outside Mugi there is a popular island called Tebajima that has a guesthouse with good reputation, which is frequently used by henros.

A dramatic sky over the ocean from a pavilion near Waraji Daishi.

As before, I try to avoid the tunnels and instead go around or over them if there is a path available to do so. The entrance to one of these paths are so barred with spiders that I have to avoid that as well. In doing so, I discover a lonely pavilion overlooking the sea, with great views of the coast and sky. The rain has left a dramatic sky in its wake. Surfers has also emerged as the sun appear to regain control over the sky. Another escape from a tunnel takes me on a short walk through a forest that ends with a walk along the beach, passing by fishermen waiting for a catch.

A lonesome surfer waits for the next wave to hit outside a beach not far from Saba Daishi.

Path of the old Henro trail avoiding one of the tunnels on the way.

There are 88 main temples on the pilgrimage, but there are also an additional 20 temples that are called bangai or bekkaku temples (outside the number). If you add visiting these temples to your pilgrimage, you will add about 150km to the total distance, making it about 1300km instead of 1150km. Most of these temples requires you to leave the standard route, hence the additional kilometers, but some are located almost right on the trail. Like Saba Daishi, bangai temple #4, an interesting temple where there is a statue of Kūkai holding a mackerel of all things. I arrived at the temple from a short, but pleasant walk through the woods.

Saba Daishi, bangai temple #4.

There is another star in the guidebook in Kaifu, a minshuku (or hotel as they call it) with the same name. I had met a couple from Mitoyo City, Yujin and Yumiko, earlier today and they are staying here as well. It is also a very nice place and the host, Matsuo-san, is very friendly. He drives us to a nearby local restaurant, Monya (if I remember the name correct), which dishes up with a great dinner for us. Yujin and Yumiko are a great acquiantance, and we communicate quite well even with their limited English and my limited Japanese. They are actually living almost next door to temple #70, Motoyamaji.

Tebajima and another island.

Late sun seen from Kainan.

It was kind of strange not having to do the temple rituals, I am getting accustomed to doing it now, even if I know that I am not doing it entirely correct yet. In some way, there is a sense of purpose of coming to a temple along this pilgrimage. The walk on the Minami-awa Sun Line was the hightlight of the day, with its twisting road overlooking the oceans, even when the deluge hit. No deluge tomorrow I have been told, no temples either.

Eating dinner together with Yujin and Yumiko at alocal restaurant in Kaifu.

<- HiwasaOzaki ->

Shikoku Henro Michi // day 7 // Byōdōji - Hiwasa

Shikoku 88 Temples Pilgrimage, day 7.
Temples: #23 (Yakuōji).
Distance: 24.3km (172.2km), time spent: 7:44.
Weather: Rain most of the day with some breaks.

Yesterday, I had crossed paths with another henro sometimes, Matsuo-san, who is also staying at Emoto. We are both driven back to Byōdōji in the morning after breakfast. Warned that it was going to be rain today, I had already donned my raingear. While I have to conduct the temple rituals at Byōdōji, Matsuo-san can on his side start to walk. After Tairyūji, this temple has not such a grandios feeling about at, but it is not fair to compare it against that temple. It is a modest temple situated at the foot of a small hill, and I like it as well.

Looking out over Byōdōji and toward the direction I will be walking.

Today, a temple will mark the beginning and end of my walk, and in between I will walk along the coast. The main route however, goes inland on a road passing several tunnels on the way. It was an easy decision, even with the announced rain. I rather walk overlooking the sea, than walking down at the bottom of a valley. If it were on a top of a mountain, though, it would be a different case. I could hear the beckoning from the deep.

Tsukiyo Omizu Daishi shrine.

Bamboo forest work next to the road between Aratano and Yuki.

The free hut not far from Byōdōji looked quite nice, although similar to the one at Hosenji, only more cleaner and tidier. I soon catch up with Matsuo-san, at a small picturesque shrine called Tsukiyo Omizu Daishi, and we walk together for the next three kilometers. The walk is on a road, but there are no cars on it, only two pilgrims and rain. Lots of it at a time. Matsuo-san will however take the inland route and where I leave for Iya Kannon (okunoin of Byōdōji), we go our separate ways.

Iya Kannon.

I wonder if I will see him again. While Matsuo-sa now is on the other side of the river, I visit Iya Kannon. The small shrine is not that noteworthy, of course it may be a story of the place that eludes me that would have made it more interesting. I feel my heart beat faster at the sight of the wild pigs on the road afterwards, even when they run away into the woods.

Henro figure next to the route.

Over towards Yuki, I walk slightly bent underneath the light rain, but not disliking the walk. Quiet, with no cars. Yuki may not be the most interesting of towns, but I spend some time there anyway. Looking at the small harbour and climbing up to two hills on each side of the small town, one a playground and the other one a shrine. Both emergency locations in case of tsunamis. I eat lunch at the playground, looking down at the boats in the harbour and over the bay.

Overlooking Yuki with its harbour and bay from a shrine on top of a small hill.

While buying the mentioned lunch at a store, a woman approached me and asked me if I would drive with her to Hiwasa and Yakuōji. Now, I know that I should not refuse osettai, as it is considered rude. This poses a serious dilemma for me, if the osettai involves driving me somewhere while I am still walking towards my destination of the day. On one side, my purist thinking sort of forbids me to take any kind of vehicle as a means to move forward, I need to walk the distance. On the other hand, it is closely sort of forbidden to refuse such an offer also. I kindly refuse in the most polite way I can manage with my extremely limited Japanese. She did not say the magic word, 'osettai', and so I felt sort of off the hook on this one. I was still sad about it. I also know that if I had got into the car and been driven to Yakuōji, I probably would have returned here either later or tomorrow (yes, I am that stubborn). Do not mistake being driven to the start of the walk this morning for the same, I only keep to this 'rule' when I am walking.

Looking out over the sea and coast from a viewpoint after Yuki near Tainohama Beach.

Sad and mournful seas from Tainohama Beach.

Shortly after Yuki, there is a short detour up to a viewpoint overlooking the beautiful Tainohama Beach, coast and sea. There is a sad and mournful look to the sea in this weather, but looking at it does not make me feel the same. From here, I followed the coast, alternating between the road and small detours on paths in between, past small fishing hamlets and villages. Where there was an option to, I avoided the tunnels (not many of them on this route fortunately). While walking, a man in a car (one of the few cars), stop by and hand me a box full of hot buns with red bean stuffing inside. They are quite delicious, but the box is equally heavy.

Ruin of a car next to the path.

On one of the paths through forests, there a poles with haiku on them next to the path.

Close to Hiwasa there is a wonderful cliff, called Eebisu-dō, which has a hole in it, letting the sea flowing through it. A walkway lets you walk next to the hole and then around and over the top of the cliff, to a shrine and viewpoint, and back again. From Eebisu-dō, I can look towards Hiwasa with both the castle and the pagoda of Yakuōji visible. The large ugly building that is my accommodation for the night is also visible on the beach outside Hiwasa.

Looking down at the pathway going next to the hole in Eebisu-dō.

Eebisu-dō seen from the road to Hiwasa.

In the guidebook, recommended accommodations are marked with a star, and so I tried my luck at the Umigame-sō. Looking at it from the outside, I question that star, since the building is far from pretty. Beauty is found on the inside, is not that what they say? That comes true here, for it is a great place. And is has a wonderful location, right next to the beach and sea. With a nice private onsen overlooking it. I yearn to go straight to the bathhouse, but stiffle that urge since I have time to visit Yakuōji first.

Loggerhead turtles, or caretta turtles, at the Hiwasa Chelonian Museum Caretta.

The worst of the rain comes then, I have not come as far as the entrance to the Hiwasa Chelonian Museum Caretta before I get soaked. I run for shelter among the turtles, getting to know various turtles instead of various Nyorai, Bosatsu, Myōō and Deva statues. I can thank the rain for getting to visit this nice museum.

Looking up at the pagoda of Yakuōji.

Fortunately, the rain did not last long and I hurry to the 23th temple, Yakuōji (Medicine King Temple). Here, the temple buildings are located above each other on various terraces up into the hill overlooking Hiwasa. The pagoda watching over the temple at the upmost terrace looks modern, but I really love it. After conducting the temple rituals (a monk actually rung the bell for me with a deep resonating boom) and getting my book stamped just before closing time, I spend some time exploring the temple. The sky gets darker and the lamps are turned on in the temple, it is wonderful. I am almost the only henro here, but there is an abundance of the funny small red crabs crawling everywhere.

Yakuōji temple.

Dropping my intended walk up to the castle, I instead return in the dwindling light back to Umigame-sō to an exceptionally good soak in the onsen. The dinner is good, although my allergy of all seafood except fish turns into a small problem here as well. Satisfied with the day, I return to my room with some cold beers that I drink on the balcony while listening to the waves crashing towards the beach.

Hiwasa Castle.

<- ByōdōjiKaifu ->

Shikoku Henro Michi // day 6 // Kushibuchi - Byōdōji

Shikoku 88 Temples Pilgrimage, day 6.
Temples: #20-22 (Kakurinji, Tairyūji, Byōdōji).
Distance: 25.6km (147.9km), time spent: 10:38.
Weather: Magnificent.

I had not slept long last night before I woke up by a sound outside the hut, whereupon I shortly could see some light outside through the windows. Then the door went up and someone came in, all I could see was a light shining at me as I sat up slightly horrified. I voice in the dark tried to calm me, I was not. The man then set about installing himself in the hut, making food and preparing a futon, all the while I tried to get back to sleep again. Eventually, after a long time, he went to bed and fell asleep almost instantly, while I remained awake for a long time.

Looking up at the mountains I am about to venture up into from Katsuura, on the way to Kakurinji.

The next morning I woke up to discover that the other man was an older henro on bike, though he wore rather ragged clothes and had a musky smell about him. I suspect he was a kind man, he had made some food and coffee that he shared with me, though I did not relish it as the cooking facilities in the hut looked very unsanitary and dirty. He boiled up a huge amount of eggs, of which I got three of upon my departure. I needed to get an early start, as I knew I had a long day ahead of me, therefore I did feel kind of rude when I left.

The path to Kakurinji.

View of the valley below with the Naka river running through, from the path up to Kakurinji.

It turned out that I did the right thing staying at the zenkonyado, I would not have made it to the Hinanosayo michi-no-eki in Katsuura before it got dark. There are no places there where I can pitch my tent, though I could probably have spent the night in the henro hut outside of it. As planned, I eat a large breakfast at a nearby convenience store, I need it, it is from here the fun of the day begin. The fun is not flat.

The old pagoda at Kakurinji.

The next and twentieth temple is another of those located at the top of a mountain (though, there are many that would call it hills). As is the norm here, the path up is steep and this will not be the only steep ascent that I have to do today. It is also marked as Henro-korogashi on the map, literally meaning henro fall down. On a rainy day, this would be a hard and tedious climb. With or without rain, the walk up is beautiful and atmospheric, on a mixture of natural surface and wooden stairs struck into the ground to aid the climb. There are great views of the valley below at the beginning of the climb and later on there is a wonderful view of the valley you will descent to after visiting Kakurinji, with the Naka river running through it.

Ingrid and Laura at Kakurinji.

Kakurinji (Crane Forest Temple), is an ancient looking temple that has escaped being burned by fire throughout the years. The pagoda there looks old. With the danger of repeating myself, this temple is also very nice, most of them so far has been. Just before arriving at the gates of the temple, I meet Ingrid and Laura from Holland. I had seen their names on an osamefuda in an henro hut yesterday, wondering if they actually were from Norway (a far-fetched hope of course). They have a long time available to do the pilgrimage, and will take their time enjoying their walk. That is a luxury I do not fully have, be able to take my time that is, I hope I still will be able to enjoy my pilgrimage of course. So far I have done so.

Kakurinji.

The Awa Henro Trail (National Historic Site) between Kakurinji and Tairyūji.

Getting to Tairyūji involves another steep ascent, after having to walk all the way to the bottom of the valley again, all elevation gain lost. The path up is on a path devotedly maintained for hundreds of years and a Place of National Historic Site, called the Awa Henro Trail. It start off on a small paved walk, almost crumbling, next to a small river with small waterfalls, before it changes to a soft surface underfoot. Sunlight through the trees adds to the wonder of the walk, and a nice hut on the way is good place to take a breather underway.

Inside the hondo at Tairyūji.

Temple number 21, Tairyūji (Great Dragon Temple), carries its name with pride it appears. Ingrid and Laura had warned me about the beauty of this temple. They are spot on, it is quite amazing and a new favorite. Also called 'Western Kōyasan' since the temple buildings are constructed in a similar way to those at Kōyasan, and are scattered around on top of the mountain, not located closely together. Another legend about Kōbō Daishi is that he performed the Gumonjihō here when he was 15, this is done by reciting the Mantra of Kokūzō one million times. (Is it just me, but when I read about all the things Kōbō Daishi should have done in the guidebook and other places, I cannot help getting a sort of Chuck Norris facts about them. When I read about this one, all I can think of is the 'Chuck Norris has counted to infinity. Twice!' fact.)

Tairyūji hondo.

It is now that the egg crisis occurs. I have completely forgotten about the eggs I got from the old henro this morning, I put them in a side pocket of my backpack. Looking at my backpack when I am about to leave, I notice that the bottom of it are full of egg yolk. The eggs were not hard boiled, and had cracked. This is going to smell later if I do not do anything about it, I clean the worst of it at the temple.

Tairyūji daishido.

Shashingatake, the okunoin of Tairyūji.

I say goodbye to Ingrid and Laura, I will probably not meet them again unfortunately (though, you never know). Most henros seems to take the path down from Tairyūji that goes on the road. I cannot fathom why. There is another path that goes through the woods and mountains that I choose, on the Iwaya and Byōdōji trails. All natural underfoot and on the way I get a good look out from the mountain, where I can see the ropeway going up towards the temple. However, the gem of the walk is Shashingatake, the okunoin of Tairyūji. Here is a wonderful statue of a sitting Kōbō Daishi overlooking the verdant mountains, another beautyspot. A big black snake slithers across the path when I am getting close to Asebi.

A jizō statue on the Iwaya / Byōdōji trail.

Determined to go further, under threat of not having any place to sleep, I cross over another pass after reaching Asebi. Ōne pass is on the other hand not as steep as the previous two. The pass has also given name to an unusal henro hut, that looks like a tower, quite cool actually. I arrive at temple 22, Byōdōji (The Temple of Equality), just before the nōkyōchō-office closes. So, I get my stamp in my book, but seeing this as the end of my day, I choose to wait performing the rituals until tomorrow (they were also closing off the temple halls at this time).

Old age at work, an old women sitting in the field, but still keep on working.

With the help of the temple staff, I get a room at an accommodation some kilometers away from here, Emoto. They will come and pick me up, great. Yesterday, I had originally tried to book a room at the Japanese inn next to the temple, Sazanka, but they were fully booked. Now, although too late, another henro that I met comes out to tell me that there had been a cancellation and it was a room available. There is also another free hut nearby, but I yearn for a shower now, and it looks like there are no places to eat nearby. The dinner at Emoto is good though, a traditional meal consisting of fish, rice, pickles, miso-soup, but also with meat that I prepare myself on a small burning pot.

The Ōne Henro Hut.

Probably the best day of my walk so far, even if it got off at a bad start and the first part of walking was not that interesting. Once I took to the mountains for the climbs to Kakurinji and Tairyūji, it was all rewarding. Now for the task of cleaning the bottom of my backpack.

Byōdōji.

<- KushibuchiHiwasa ->