GR1 Sendero Historico // day 2 // Collado del Pando - Besande

GR1 Sendero Historico day 2.
Distance: 25.5km (55.0km), time spent: 09:00.
Waymarking: Good.
Weather: Sunny and mostly a clear blue sky, hot.

The second day on the Sendero Historico brought me to Besande. Not as far as I originally had hoped to go, but after a night with almost no sleep and a walk in high temperatures, I quickly understood that I would not reach my little hope of getting to Collado de la Cruz Armada. Where others probably have a more take it as it comes approach to the trails they do, I usually have made up a sort of plan in advance. Mine was overly ambitious, but I am used to and well aware of that the plans that I have in mind always ends up changing. This one would be no exception.

View East from Collado del Pando in the morning. Clouds drifting up from the valley below. To the left in the background, the silhouette of Peña Espigüete.

One thing about myself that I know is that I in the long run function better if I have slept well. On a walk like this, it is critical that I get enough sleep. Which I did not get during the night at Collado del Pando, of reasons I really cannot explain, for the most part I was just twisting and turning in my sleeping bag. There were also nothing that I worried about, though there were a lot of noise outside. Especially the mating calls of the deer, which cannot be said to be particularly pretty. At a given time, I was also about to entering sleep, when a sudden snort next to the tent shook me back into the wakefulness again. Nor was it too hot either, it was quite colder during the night than I had expected.

A chozo below Collado del Pando, this is a traditional thatched shelter for shepherds, you could sleep in it if you want.

The hike continued pretty much in the same way as it had ended the day before, and with just a small exception it was yet another gorgeous day. Though maybe not as grandiose as yesterday, it did not lessen the experience in any way. The little exception was the part between Las Salas and Remolina, where the trail first went on a short, but rather boring path next to a river before it entered another paved road.

View from Collado de Mostagerosa (Tejerina), Remolina below; I could see Collado del Pando in the mountains further back.

Before that, I had woke up at the pass to a clear sky, but with small waves of clouds that engulfed the peaks to the east, Peña Espigüete included. It was a beautiful morning and when the sunrays cut across the mountains, the warmth also woke up to life. I came down to Las Salas that bore signs that it had not woken up from sleep yet, like the first part of the route afterwards.

The distinct shape of Peña Espigüete seen from Collado de Mostagerosa.

When I arrived in Besande, I had crossed three passes, Collado de Mostagerosa, Collado der Corral de los Lobos and Collado Monteviejo. Of these three, it was the ascent to Collado de Mostagerosa that was the most demanding, where the gravity really made its mark, together with the heat. I quickly noticed that I did not have as much energy as yesterday and that it would be hard to reach a fourth pass (Cruz Armada). Unlike the climb up to Collado de Lois yesterday this mostly went up through a forest, with not many views unfolding for each heavy step. In return, the reward felt thus greater when I finally reached the pass.

On the way down to Tejerina, looking back up at Collado de Mostagerosa.

Not just because the view was grand. I have always felt a kind of satisfaction by looking out across a landscape where I can recognize the places I have walked or been. Yesterday, I sat and watched the lights from Remolina below, now I could point out Collado del Pando on the other side. At the pass itself, it stood Collado de Tejerina on the signpost and you get a short, but nice ridge walk before the path leaves the ridge and goes down towards Tejerina itself.

One of the amusing and curious water fountains in Tejerina.

The trail has somewhat gained a reputation that it is hard to find the way on it, that the waymarks at times are not good enough, but until now I have not had any problems finding the way. Even on the path down from the pass, which the guidebook warned about could be a little difficult, it went fine. Dry yellowing grass dominated the valley below and in the horizon, the contours of Peña Espigüete now appeared even clearer. In the heat, it was good to arrive in Tejerina and find out that the village had a bar after all.

The trail after Tejerina and up towards Collado der Corral de los Lobos.

Where Collado de Mostagerosa was the most demanding, Collado der Corral de los Lobos was the most interesting. At the pass there was an enclosure made of solid logs that lead down towards a curious construction, given the name of the pass I assumed that it was some kind of an old trap to capture wolves. No wolves in the vicinity now and the walk down to Prioro was not of the exciting kind.

Collado der Corral de los Lobos, was the plan behind the enclosure to lead the wolves down to the circular building and capture them in there?

Prioro did not became more than a stopover for lunch, consisting of a large and fat bocadillo, and a large glass of cerveza con limon in a local bar. When I left the village, the temperature had got hotter than it was when I entered it. The walk up to the last pass of the day, Collado Monteviejo (1440m), became heavy enough even when it was not that steep. The sound of bellowing cows followed me down to the small village of Besande.

Outside the church in Prioro.

When I arrived in Besande, I was tired and I had begun to strongly doubt that I would reach Collado de la Cruz Armada before it got too late. Uncertain of where I could find a good place to camp before the pass, I asked some of the villagers if I could pitch my tent at the rest area that I passed by at the entrance to the village. I was more than welcome to do that, but they meant that it was not a good place to camp, no flat surface. Instead, I could if I wanted it, put up my tent at a flat lawn in front of their house. If I needed anything, I could only knock on their door and ask.

Peña Espigüete colored red by the evening sun from Besande.

There were also a restaurant / bar in the village, but those I talked to did not quite know when it was open or not. Fortunately for me, it was now open, being Saturday could maybe have something to do with it. Thus ended my second day on the GR1 Sendero Historico. Sitting at a bar in Besande where I could relax with a few beers and eat a somewhat better dinner than what I would cook for myself on my stove. Even though the bacalao that I ordered was a bit poorly cooked, the starter consisting of a plate with ham, mushrooms and shrimps (which I had to pick out) was better.

<- Collado del PandoCol Alto de la Varga ->

GR1 Sendero Historico // day 1 // Puerto de Tarna - Collado del Pando

GR1 Sendero Historico day 1.
Distance: 29.5km (29.5km), time spent: 10:02.
Waymarking: Good.
Weather: Sun and a clear blue sky, some few confused clouds.

It is hard to describe the feeling you have when you finally are located at the place you have been waiting for and planned for so long a time. When the butterflies that has resided in the stomach the last days has left the body. Something they tend to do when I stand at the starting point of a long walk. The dice has been thrown, it will sink or swim. When you have found the answer to what you have wondered of for so long, how it looks like from where the trail starts, what kind of weather you will begin in? At Puerto de Tarna, where the GR1 Sendero Historico starts from, there was not a cloud in the sky in the direction I was going and the magnificent mountains stood in stark contrast against the blue background. The air is crisp and fresh, the view fantastic, and a little bit chilly.

Puerto de Tarna in the Picos de Europa, 1490m, the starting point of the GR1 Sendero Historico. The trail begins from a rather odd pass between Asturias and Castilla y Leon.

I cannot deny that it was pure joy to stand at the pass, located at 1490m, and gaze out across the Parque Regional de Picos de Europa. It was like arriving at the main course of the trail at once. When I took the first steps on the walk, it was however not without a certain quivering sensation in the body. After all, I had a walk of over 1250km ahead of me and what was awaiting me was somewhat uncertain.

The trail from Puerto de Tarna is descending through magnificent scenery.

From Puerto de Tarna, I went to Collado del Pando, a small pass between Salamon and Las Salas. The walk had been fantastic and the only problem that I could see was if the rest of the trail could follow up this day. If there were anything negative about this first day, it would be that that last part of the route went on a paved road from Lois and down to Salamon.

Parque Regional de Picos de Europa.

Before that, I had almost walked with stars emanating from my eyes. The first six kilometres from Puerto de Tarna to Maraña was sheer joy, even though the path that I was walking on in the beginning shortly after changed to a gravel track. Around me the mountains rose up from green and copper-like vegetation and in the beginning there was a frosty mist that rose up from where the first rays of the sun begun heating up the ground. It was quiet and I could not possible ask for a better beginning of a long hike.

A curious cow fountain in the small village of Maraña.

Not that the walk after Maraña was not good, it was splendid, but there is always a novelty in the beginning that wears off. I had getting started, was on my way and the problems that I have had so far was now behind me. I could focus solely on the simple deed and live the day and that the only small thing that mattered was to get to the destination of the evening. In Maraña, I stopped for a short break and used the opportunity to buy myself something refreshing from the small albergue there. The scenery necessitated that you sat down and enjoyed it.

On the way between Maraña and Acebedo, beneath beautiful mountains this part of the route went on a long plain.

I was remarkable alone on the trail, where I felt that I more shared the path with the cows and horses rather than other people. Cow dung everywhere formed small obstacles, something that characterized the surface all of the day. I passed through four small villages on my first day, Acebedo, Lois, Salamon and aforementioned Maraña. Something implying that I should have met more people, but it was oddly quiet. I just walked through Acebedo and I got Lois to myself, I was to meet more people in Salamon.

Climbing up towards Collado de Lois. A long ascent from Acebedo, the route was pleasant and the views just got better and better the higher up and closer to the pass I came.

The day was not without ascents as well, I was in the mountains after all. From Acebedo it was steadily climbing up towards Collado de Lois and it got gradually more and more steeper, but with that came the rewards in the form of superb views. The route pleasant, the heavy burden forgotten. Collado de Lois was the highest point on the walk, at 1585m, and a proper place for a lunch break. With ascent, there is also descent and an unexpected, but nice walk through woods.

Local waymarking of the paths with drawings of the sights at the different places.

When I arrived at Salamon, I was close to my destination of the day; in the lack of the local bar being open, I was invited into the garden to some of the few villagers. Wondering about my arrival in the village, I was given fruit, ham and some beers. Hospitality is not blocked by any borders. In the winter, there is only one person that still stays in the village.

After the descent from Collado de Lois on the way to Lois itself, looking back to where the trail comes from.

At the pass that I thought would be a nice place to stay the night, Collado del Pando, the cows and horses in their absence made it difficult finding a suitable campsite. Cow dung all over the place, on the most suitable field there was not a single space where I could fit in my tent. I had to make do with a place in the tall grass on the other side of the fence that divides the pass in two. Then the next question came, would I wake up to animals grazing around me.

Catedral de la Montaña in Lois, the size of the church quite huge in comparison to the village.

Then the sun went down behind the mountains in the West, the sky assumed a darker hue. After dinner (soup with pasta and serrano ham), I saw and looked across to the other side of the valley. I could see the lights being lit in a small village high up, thought it was Remolina that the trail passes by tomorrow. Around me, I could hear deer barking out their mating calls in the dark. When the landscape in the end vanished in the darkness, I crept into the tent and after a wonderful day in the Picos de Europe greeted the night welcome.

Collado del Pando. In the evening, looking over to Remolina and the pass I will climb over tomorrow, Collado de Mostagerosa (Tejerina).

<- Prologue: Puerto de TarnaBesande ->

GR1 Sendero Historico // prologue // Puerto de Tarna

The GR1 Sendero Historico is an about 1250km long trail that crosses the northern part of Spain just to the South of the Pyrenees. The trail starts from Puerto de Tarna in the Picos de Europa and ends at the shores of the Mediterranean in Sant Martí d'Empúries. Originally envisioned as a coast to coast walk of Spain, but Asturias and Galicia did not join into the vision since they already had enough routes to administer (it is still fully possible to undertake such a journey, by connecting some small local routes between Oviedo and Puerto de Tarna to the Sendero Historico and the Camino Primitivo and Finisterre).

Hiking on the trail, you will be brought along the history of Spain from Roman times through the Middle Ages to the civil war. The trail takes you past abandoned villages, desolate areas where remnants of history can be seen in the many castles, forts, ruins, villages and churches you pass by. As well as walking beneath the shadow of the towering Pyrenees to the North with its majestic mountains. It takes a long journey to get to another long journey, though fortunately, I do not have to walk that journey. However, getting to Puerto de Tarna, the starting point of the GR1 Sendero Historico trail, is not that trivial. So, the easiest things first, getting to Oviedo, where there should be buses that goes up to the pass.

Map of the GR1 Sendero Historico trail from Puerto de Tarna to Sant Martí d'Empúries.

I had little trouble getting to Oviedo; instead it was acquiring the necessary items for my hike that proved to be the most difficult. The items I talk about are a gas canister for my stove and food supplies (should be easy to get in a city the size of Oviedo). From my hometown of Oslo, I flew to Gatwick and spent an all too long and infinite boring wait for the next flight to the Asturias airport. Given the late arrival at Asturias, I had chosen to spend one evening and night in Aviles, giving me an excuse to take a look (however short) at that city as well.

The facade of a backyard in Aviles, seen from the hotel.

Aviles itself appeared to me to be kind of worn and scruffy of a sort, but the historic centre was very nice. The weather was grey, but that only made the evening in the old town of Aviles more atmospheric, which went by in a pleasant way with tapas and some cold cerveza's to quench the shaking feeling of not quite knowing what you have embarked upon. The thought of the long journey that lies ahead of you, is almost as difficult to fathom, as it is to come to terms with.

The Plaza Espana in Aviles.

The morning after, I woke up to Asturias day and with that celebration, the problems came sailing. Something that I should not discover until I was in Lugones, after taking the bus there from Aviles. In Lugones there is a Decathlon store from where I should be able to buy a gas ganister for my stove. Given the celebration, every shop are closed, which also applies to the food stores. Now what? Postpone the departure up towards Picos de Europa? Would have posed no problems, if it were not for that I already had booked and paid for my hotel there.

One of the narrow streets in the old town of Aviles. Notice the pilgrims scallop on one of the pillars. The Camino del Norte goes through Aviles. I cannot deny that the sight of the scallop brought back a couple of memories and a slight urge to forget about the GR1 and instead just continue walking on the pilgrimage to Santiago.

This first, of many, problem on the trip was solved when I found a gas ganister in a store consisting of any trinkets available and run by foreigners, of all places. The gas canister however, was not of the ordinary kind, significantly larger and bulkier than the preferred type, and will therefore take up more space in my backpack. Alas. Food supplies though, the second problem, gave me bigger worries. No food stores open, but the tourist shops in Oviedo was. Not entirely elegant as food for a hike, but an expensive tourist pack of cured ham had to do in the emergency. Then all of a sudden I passes by a small food store, which given its size is allowed to be open. There I find all the food items that I need (pasta, soups, chocolate and all other simple pleasures you bring with you on a hike) and can satisfied walk on towards the next problem.

View down the valley from the hotel in Campo de Caso, Hotel Rural Reciegos, a pleasant and small hotel with a very friendly hostess.

Since it is Asturias day, the buses also does not go at the same time as usual, so the departure that I had in mind to get me to the hotel in Campo de Caso was no longer available. Instead, I take the bus to Lallana, rather uncertain of how to get me further from there. I get to share a taxi together with someone else a little bit up the valley and then get the taxi for myself the rest of the ride up to Campo de Caso. The ride up became more expensive than originally planned, but I arrived at my destination in the end.

The centre of Campo de Case underneath a grey layer of clouds.

The bus- and taxi-ride up was of the kind where you can only lean back and enjoy what you see, feel the thrill of slowly getting higher up into the mountains, feel the thrill of what awaits you around the next corner, see how the area you will be starting from look like. Once arrived, I can finally just relax. The only thing remaining is to prepare the backpack for tomorrow. Outside, the clouds rests heavily over the landscape, but even though a lot of it are hidden, it is not hidden well enough to not reveal that it is in a striking mountain area the trail is starting from. I however have some fears that it will be a grey day to begin in. Now it is only atmospheric.

An old commercial on a wall in Campo de Caso.

I have to eat dinner down in the village, but that only gives me a short and nice stroll on a path down to the small place. I sit outside on the terrace of a local bar and restaurant, darkness about to descend. A cold Ambar on the table, a new beer that I have not tasted before, good. Quiet. What awaits me tomorrow? Heavy rain? Fog? Sun and blue sky? What awaits me the next two months on the way? Questions that I cannot answer. I go inside and eat a relatively good dinner. Follows the lights alongside the path back up to the hotel again. Butterflies in my stomach.

The hotel I stayed at also runs a cheese factory where the make the Casin cheese. Quesería Redes.

Next morning I wake up to an almost clear blue sky and the breakfast standing ready at the table. Up to Puerto de Tarna, there is another taxi ride. Once again sitting and looking curiously out of the window, where the taxi meanders upwards on small mountain roads past small hamlets and mountain farms. Who lives here? I disappear up into fog, up into clouds and my morning hope of beginning my hike underneath a clear blue sky gets a solid knack. The ride up is still cool though, gnarled and twisted trees disappears in the clouds around me. As if they desperately clings to life so high up.

At the beginning of the trail, Puerto de Tarna.

Then we emerges up above the clouds. At Puerto de Tarna, the air and visibility are clear, not a cloud in view in the direction I am going. They are left behind me to the North. The light and colours are remarkably. It is a little bit chilly. I pay the taxi driver who turns and disappear down into the clouds again. Alone at the top of the pass, with 1250 or more kilometers to walk in front of me among the ghosts of the GR1 Sendero Historico.

Collado del Pando ->

Massiv // day 7 // Finnsbergvatnet - Finse

Massiv day 7.
Distance: 16.9km (156.4km), time spent: 6:22 (57:13).
Ascent / descent: 460m (4454m) / 468m (4236m).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 1209m / 1222m / 1429m.
Weather: Mostly grey and overcast, then a deluge, overcast again near the end.

A quick look outside the tent reveals that the morning has not paid any heed to yesterdays glorious evening, a shield has descended upon the sky and is blocking all sunlight. Some drops of rain are also descending. Those two factors does not concern me much, but it would be nice to have one full day with sun and a clear blue sky. I shall however not complain, the weather has been erratic, but is has been far better than what I had expected. Back home before I left, the forecast for this week was anything but positive.

Looking back at Finnsbergvatnet, my campsite was at the other end of the lake.

What I have in store of weather on the way today, carries no significance either. The end of the story and the journey is that I will come to Finse, where I can get a shower and can change into dry clothes. Then I will be sitting on a train. Few concerns. My only slight concern earlier was to reach the train, and even if I had started from Krækkja this morning I would probably have enough time. Now I have more than enough, no need to stress about anything. I have about six hours left of my hike, given the estimates by the Norwegian trekking association of this route.

Grey mountain scenery.

One of the few (and small) snow banks between Krækkja and Finse, less snow here on this stretch than it was when I walked here in the Summer of 2012.

In the Winter, it is called a whiteout when the ground and sky blends together in a blizzard, when one fails to distinguish the ground from the sky. With this grey sky and grey landscape, could this be called a greyout? They almost go in one, a landscape almost without color nuances. A stone desolation. Rough and cool.

View through the rain down towards where the Rallarvegen passes by Storurevatnene.

For a while I feel utterly alone, where I do not expect to meet anyone until I arrive at Finse. Only Hardangerjøkulen that is keeping half an eye on me, partly hidden by the clouds, but eventually two other hikers appears. Two dark figures that hardly are visible in the landscape. This is their first hike that extends to more than one night, according to them, so they are a little bit excited.

Clouds forming a clear and grey border between land and sky, Hardangerjøkulen partly obscured by the grey weather.

Small light rain showers come and go, apparently only when I take a break. Small and short breaks, small and short rain showers. Before Torsteinsvatnet, the route offers views down towards where Rallarvegen is passing Storurevatnene, but I cannot see if there are any cyclists who are out there in the rain (Rallarvegen is a famous road that it is very popular to go biking on).

Hardangerjøkulen with Blåisen (named after its blue ice).

The full front of the rain does finally arrive, right before I come down to where the path from Kjeldebu joins my route towards Finse. As a wall from the West. With the exception of the evening and night at Reinsmyrtjørna, this is the heaviest of rain that I have had on my hike. Conveniently enough at the time that my stomach has ordered lunch. From Kjeldebu comes first a group of walkers that go with firm steps towards Finse, then a solitary hiker moments later. They do as I do, stands for a short time in the shelter of a rock and eats quickly, before disappearing.

Rain approaching, a grey wall on its way.

The rain subsides somewhat after a little while, so I can sit down and eat more properly. Without any long breaks, as well as I have kept a decent pace, makes me ahead of the schedule. I can take it easy the last kilometers to Finse, vaguely visible through the veil of rain and clouds. The mountains in the horizon are dark. I can see a train leaving the station at Finse.

A short break in the deluge, rolling (smoking) clouds over Vetle Hansbunuten.

I arrive at Finse and the end of Massiv for me this year. Just before I am at the train station there is a train going to Oslo. I might be able to reach it, but my fellow passengers would probably not be so happy about it (getting a smelly and sweat hiker next to them). This is where this years Summer hike in the mountains ends. It has been a great week and a wonderful crossing of Hardangervidda.

At Finsefetene the river is crossed on a suspension bridge, would not want to fall into the water.

With my train ticket in my pocket (for the 18:20 train, I arrived around 14:30), I walk to Finsehytta for a shower, it will be good to shower off the shower I got on my way here. Plenty of time to the train is departing, so overlooking Finsevatnet and the rain, I can sit down and relax with some food and taste the local beer from the microbrewery at the place. I get company by the solitary hiker I met, who is from Germany. This was also his first hike that lasted several days, he was happy with his trip, but was tired and satisfied that he was finished.

Finse and thee end of first part of the Massiv trail for my part.

So, then I leave Finse and Massiv. Someone stole my portable seat pad while I relaxed at the cabin, not exactly a huge loss, but quite petty to steal such a small item if you ask me. The train rolls down, passing cyclists on Rallarvegen, gradually descending. The mountains becomes smaller, more and more trees appears, the vegetation takes over, valleys opens up. Behind me seven days on Hardangervidda and Massiv. Next year, I will hopefully return to Finse, ready to proceed further into Skarvheimen. So long for this time. First time, I have done a 'pub to pub' walk in the mountains.

Map of the trail for the seventh and last day on Massiv, from Finnsbergvatnet to Finse.

<- FinnsbergvatnetGeitryggvatnet ->

Massiv // day 6 // Stigstu - Finnsbergvatnet

Massiv day 6.
Distance: 26.1km (139.5km), time spent: 9:53 (50:51).
Ascent / descent: 661m (3994m) / 668m (3768m).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 1223m / 1209m / 1362m.
Weather: Fog in the morning, then overcast, evening sun.

A small gust goes through my body when I cross the courtyard between the annex and the main cabin at Stigstu. Outside, the fog is dense, as in a fairy tale. It is almost as if the fog seeps through tiny openings in the walls and windows. The guests sits down inside in front of the breakfast table, yesterday they gathered, today they became separated again, each to their own direction.

Stigstu shrouded by fog in the morning.

That I will not be spending the night at Krækkja is decided, but that does not mean that I will not pay a visit to the cabin. In a way, you could say that I have fallen into a routine now, hike to a staffed cabin, take a break and then continue on to find a place to camp (and get a stamp in Massiv passport).

Mistwalkers on the moorland above Stigstu.

Last time I went here, between Krækkja and Stigstu, was in the winter-summer of 2012. At that time, there were a lot of snow in the mountains, although it was more modest here than in other areas. I cannot see any snow now, just the fog lying thick above the ground. Still, the fog is not as thick as pea soup, the path is clearly visible, though you do not see that far. I had better views that summer, so it does not matter that I wander amongst gnomes and fairies today, rather than looking at distant mountains.

A window in the mist. The valley below Skaupsjøbrotet appears underneath the clouds for a short while.

Stigstu disappeared at least quickly in the fog, and if someone stood and watched me when I left the cabin, they probably just saw a solitary figure who disappeared among the clounds, slowly swallowed up by them. Above the moorland clouds are drifting, slight howls from the wind and occasionally small glimpses of view. Small lakes and ponds appears and sinks back into oblivion.

Above Lundhaukedalen, the fog has lifted somewhat and more and more views remains.

Behind me, I am being chased by a group that yesterday came from Rauhelleren, in front a dog is dragging on the rains, apparently it does not like having people walking in front of him. Competitive instinct at large. We talked together a great day yesterday and at the breakfast table today; and after they overtake me, we walk for some time together talking along the way. With lighter backpacks and not hindered by an equal desire to take pictures, they gradually disappears into the fog and the cloudy landscape. I overtake them one last time, when they stop for a lunch break, and then they disappear for good when I stop for my lunch by Skulevikåne. For them the journey ends at Halne.

On the way towards Halne with Halnekongen visible behind, the road barely visible as a thin line.

At Lundhaukedalen, the clouds have been lifted higher up into the sky, the landscape in the horizon is greeting me welcome. Highway 7 (R7) at Halne marks a nice border between the flat eastern part of Hardangervidda and the more torn scenery where Massiv is approaching Skarvheimen. After walking a long way from any high trafficked road for some time, you have to remember to look around when crossing the road. I have no wish to stay long next to the road (or any road), to I quickly walk on. The most distinctive landmark here, Halnekongen, has long been visible.

After Halne Fjellstova, the trail slips into a more rocky, gnarled and rugged landscapes when Massive is approaching Skarvheimen.

Halnekongen is tempting me, but I continue on, resisting the temptation. The top beckons again, I have to take time to think, but resists the temptation again. The clouds does not resist the temptation, they often climb up to gaze out over the landscape. As I does, over the more gnarled scenery above Krækkja.

At Krækkja, the cabin is being improved, the place looking like a construction site more than a tranquil place in the mountains. Even though the cabin is getting bigger, there will be no more places to sleep there. Not allowed, a bit baffling given that the Norwegian trekking association (DNT) still has the unwritten rule that no one is to be turned away even if it is full. Which means that the only difference is that people have to sleep on mattresses on the floor instead of a bed. The point is, if people are determined to get out and know they we will get a shelter for the night, fewer beds available will not prevent them from coming.

On the way down from Halnebotnane where you can look down at Krækkja. From here, the construction works at the cabin is clearly visible.

I arrive at DNT's staffed construction site together with another hiker, who turns out to be married to the hostess at Fagerheim Fjellstugu. They have a full house today he tells over a cup of coffee, as opposed to here, but it will probably be more people here eventually. When he walks on to return to Fagerheim to help with the evening dinner there, I sit down in the fireplace lounge with a cold beer (heard that before?). The lounge is untouched by the work, except for some scaffolding outside the window.

A rocky landscape, a lonesome hiker and dramatic clouds greets me between Drageidfjorden and Finnsbergvatnet.

Leaving Krækkja, I go with the expectation that it will rain, ominous clouds lies heavily over the mountains and Hardangerjøkulen (the famous glacier in the north of Hardangervidda), ready to drop its load. At Drageidfjorden, I meet some of those who have hiked the long way from Finse, expectant of soon reaching Krækkja. For me, the trek is head, past Drageidfjorden, rocky mounds and small suspension bridges over babbling rivers and streams. Dramatic clouds, the world in dark hues.

Roughly two hours later I come to Finnsbergvatnet, at a convenient time to stop for the day. At the southeastern end of the lake is a good campground, with nice views of the lake and towards Helveteshorga with Hardangerjøkulen as background. When the backpack is on the ground and the tent brought out, I only wait for the first raindrops to appear, but instead the layer of clouds are breaking up in the west.

A wonderful evening sun above Finnsbergvatnet when dinner is prepared.

What follows is the finest evening of the trip so far, it is also the last night. When I sit outside preparing the dinner there is a great evening sun over Helveteshorga and Finnsbergvatnet. The clouds disappears rapidly and above me blue sky is making its entry, while in the horizon the clouds lie like waves across the mountain, just not moving.

Evening at Finnsbergvatnet.

In the evening, when the sun has disappeared behind the glacier, and the verge of the mountains has assummed a reddish hue, the temperature drops again. I creep into the tent and relax before the night closes on the landscape. From fog to a lovely evening sun, a varied day where I have moved from Hardangervidda towards Skarvheimen.

Map of the trail for the sixth day on Massiv, from Stigstu to Finnsbergvatnet.

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