Massiv // day 5 // Reinsmyrtjørna - Stigstu

Massiv day 5.
Distance: 18.6km (113.4km), time spent: 6:35 (40:58).
Ascent / descent: 282m (3333m) / 358m (3100m).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 1297m / 1223m / 1301m.
Weather: Yet another day with undetermined weather, but the hottest one so far, fog in the evening.

I cannot claim that it is cheerful outside when I wake up in the morning, but the rain eventually stopped during the night. On the ground outside the tent it is wet and it makes some nice gurgling sounds when you step on it some places. From the inside of my tent, the raindrops lying on the canvas looks like tiny rivers that runs downwards. After having eaten more of my dwindling storage of food for breakfast and lunch, I pack together my belongings. To make the tent lighter, I separate the inner tent from the outer tent and shakes both parts well.

Rain moving across the flat areas on the eastern part of Hardangervidda, here from Eiriksbudalen. It is not many obstacles for the weather in this part, so it whizzes almost unobstructedly across the mountain.

Having considered my options, I have today decided to go to Stigstu. If I spend my planned for second night on a cabin at Krækkja, I will get a longer walk to Finse on sunday. I have to reach the train back home again, to continue from Krækkja and spend the night in my tent instead, provide me with a better time to reach the train. Hence, less stress. Another argument is that if I continue from Stigstu, then tomorrow will be a really short day.

What is this pole with two arms that reaches towards the sky? Langavatnet is below.

This section of Massiv has now moved into the eastern part of Hardangervidda. I know about a much tougher route across the plateau to Finse when it comes to the scenery, but on the other hand, the decision to route the trail past Stigstu and Krækkja provides the hikers with a taste of the more flat landscape on this part of Hardangervidda. Not that it is without its own charm, but for a more massive trail, I would have made the trail go past Hadlaskard, Liseth and Rembesdalseter before Finse. Though, this maybe breaks the concept of passing by as many staffed cabins at possible.

Langavatnet with a view to the west.

The flat landscape makes the weather pass faster by, in an already grey view it begins to rain, but it disappears quickly further away into the horizon. Like the weather, I also walk quickly on this surface. There are few meters of ascent and descent to speak of. On the small hilltop before Langavatnet, I pass by an odd pole, with two arms that reaches up towards the weather, I wonder strangely upon what it is.

One of the hunting lodges at Hellehalsen above Langavatnet, by looking at the walls you can see that it is weather-beaten here.

Down by Langavatnet, where the outlet between the lake and Kristentjønn is crossed on a large bridge, I encounter the first of the other walkers for the day, it is a short distance from the parking lot at Tinnhølen and here. In addition, there are more people on the path here than I have met earlier on the walk.

For many, many years ago, I was also crossing the mountain plateau, together with my cousin and two of his friends. Just above Hellehalsen we met three exhausted hikers who all walked with their backs bent, each carrying a heavy load. After we had talked to them for a while, they continued further. When we looked at their backpacks, we understood the crooked backs, they were all carrying their own three liter bag of wine. Later, I read an article in an Norwegian newspaper about crossing Hardangervidda. At the end of the article, there were a small notice that carrying with you three liter of wine was not a good idea. My backpack is far too heavy as it is now, and I do not carry with me any wine.

Contrasts between land and sky in the mountains, just after Tinnhølen / Trondsbu towards Stigstu.

Path towards Stigstu with Skaupsjønuten behind.

Getting to the parking place at Tinnhølen is an anticlimax, a sea of cars, both usual and caravans. Reminds me too much of civilization, but I still eat lunch at Trondsbu, sheltered from the parking sea. Sandwich with cheese and ham, a Norwegian specialty called lefse (sweet bread with butter, sugar and cinnamon), cola, back to civilization. A small Massiv-diversion, on the Massiv-pass it is optional to stamp here at Trondsbu or at Stigstu, but they have not heard about this pass here (they probably will do it eventually).

Stigstu getting closer, crossing on stones over a small bog, Skaupsjønuten in the background.

The weather has now becomes quite so jovial, even hot, in stark contrast to earlier. Here the sun shines from a blue sky, with just a couple of changing clouds above, but around me it is more dramatic. Walking on the flat plain towards Stigstu, I can see several moving skyfalls in various directions. The houses of Stigstu brightly red beneath Skaupsjønuten.

On the way to Skaupsjønuten, sheep grazing on the ridge.

Suddenly, I arrive at Stigstu, too early. Stopping could mean abstinences during the afternoon. It is good then that my curiosity attached itself to the summit of Skaupsjønuten as soon as it appeared in the horizon above Stigstu. At a distance the peak looked like it was closer to the cabin than it is, but that just give me more value for the walk to the top of it. It does not appear to be a path up, I just walk straight ahead up the slope. Sheep walks in a row at the top of the ridge, sheep with a view.

At the summit of Skaupsjønuten (1414m). Dark clouds in the horizon, it looks like it is raining heavily over Store Skrekken. This was great peak to the top of.

At the summit, the wind blows relatively hard. The advantage of getting higher up, when the landscape around is so flat as it is, goes without saying. From 1415 meters above sea level you get wide and extensive views. Drama in the horizons, over Store Skrekken to the south it is raining heavily, there is a dark wall there. A clear blue sky is great, but drifting clouds sometimes makes things more eventful. You are supposed to be able to see Gaustatoppen from here, but now there are not quite a few raindrops in between.

Fog in the evening at Stigstu.

For dinner, mountain trout is served, caught by the hosts themselves. A lot of food, and good it is too. The other guests are a pleasant company. Fog drifts in during the evening and the heat of the day has switched to a sour temperature outside. Stigstu is also one of the nicest mountain cabins here on Hardangervidda, it is a bit smaller than the others, but that may just be the reason why it is so pleasant there. I will not hide the fact that the walk from my wet campsite at Reinsmyrtjørna to here, was not the most exciting on the hike, but that is quite forgotten after the cool walk up to Skaupsjønuten. It was not a hard or demanding walk up to the top, but that is not the point either, the experience at the summit was great.

Map of the trail for the fifth day on Massiv, from Reinsmyrtjørna to Stigstu.

<- ReinsmyrtjørnaFinnsbergvatnet ->

Massiv // day 4 // Litlos - Reinsmyrtjørna

Massiv day 4.
Distance: 27.4km (94.8km), time spent: 10:50 (34:23).
Ascent / descent: 727m (3051m) / 621m (2742m).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 1192m / 1297m / 1401m.
Weather: Alternating between overcast and some blue sky, some rain, deluge in the evening.

Have to say that the breakfast at Litlos tastes better than the crispbread that I have 'enjoyed' as breakfast in my tent, the only danger is that you may eat too much and end up with a too full stomach to bear continue walking. When I finished eating lunch yesterday, I saw that I had probably been too gready with the food, I will go empty of food for breakfast and lunch. After our very small complaint about not being able to buy provisions at the staffed cabins, it turns out that the staff at Litlos may be able to help us out. They have a bag full of food that has been left behind by previous hikers, which I and another couple can choose from. A lot of outdated food, though you do not need to fear the best before date, but 2003 I feel is a little bit too long ago. Even for dry food. I go for a pack of spaghetti, which will help me a lot.

Leaving Litlos, looking back, one of the nicest DNT-cabins on Hardangervidda.

The plan for this day is the same as for two days ago, I will walk to Sandhaug (the next cabin on Massiv if you go northbound) and will take a longer break there before continue walking to find me a place to camp. At Sandhaug you enter the eastern part of Hardangervidda. It is a little bit of a miserable weather outside, so I am more unsure of what it will bring today, but it soon becomes considerable prettier as soon as I have started walking.

A gray, pale and veiled weather above Litlos, here below Holken looking towards Grytehorgi, the trail turns left before the top.

If you have followed my posts from this walk, you may have noticed that I often highlight walking in a desolate landscape, and it is correct, I do enjoy myself in such sceneries. Just me walking alone in a desolate wilderness. Now I am not entirely alone here though, as I after Litlos and past Holken towards Ambjørsflott walks together with two other hikers that also stayed at Litlos. And shortly after, I meet a couple with a dog that has camped at Skadvatn. Shrouded across the mountains on the other hand is a pale veil, which makes the view mysterious and fablelike. A deserted heath where you can hear faeries, gnomes, creatures from the underground and other fairytales call, while trolls resounds in the misty background. Memories of a hike along the wall of Hadrian.

In the direction of Ambjørsflott, the landscape is covered by a pale veil, where fairy creatures calls upon you through the mystical weather.

When the veil is lifted, the green and pale scenery changes to a grey and rocky nature where darker clouds now takes place on the sky. Hårteigen with its characteristic shape is now looming to the west of me. The weather is so changing that it never makes me any wiser of it. About halfway to Besso, which I measure by meeting the first of the walkers coming from there, blue sky is again discernable between gloomy layers of clouds. Some of the hikers try out some throws with their fishing rods, but do not look to be successful.

Over towards Besso the path and the scenery becomes more and more rocky.

At one of the tops on Bismarhei there is a cairn, this might be just a small and insignificant summit, but up to the top I go anyway. It is usually always fun with this kind of detours. The top at 1445m has no problems providing good views in all directions, it is light overcast where I stand, slightly darker at some other places as I can see. This darkness should catch up with me after I have eaten lunch above Bessodalen, but in the outskirts of it, I only experience some light drizzle. Those I met that came from Besso, told me that it was supposed to be a thunderstorm in the evening. That is not good news, but the good news is that the forecast was for the western part. I go towards the eastern part, but I am not that comforted by it.

View of Hardangervidda from an unnamed top (1445m) at Bismarhei, Hårteigen to the right.

Sandhaug is also situated so that you see the cabin from far away before you get to it, but here you do get a better feeling of progress when you walk towards it. Behind me, it is pitch black, ahead of me, more pleasant. Above Nordmannslågen, you already see that the scenery is about to change, to become more flat and open.

Pitch black clouds are passing behind me, above Besso.

There are few people at Sandhaug by the look of it, a lot fewer than expected, given the number of people at Litlos, but it is possible that there are several who are resting at their rooms. They used to keep the beer glasses in the freezer before, a sneaky trick, but not anymore. I stay sitting in the lounge for well over one and a half hour, the beer is cold even without frozen glasses. I appreciate these small breaks inside the warmth, but I do want to go out again.

At the bridge crossing the Besso river.

When I leave Sandhaug it is a gloomy world I venture out into, grey and heavy clouds looming above me, but it does not rain. This time, I do not walk as long as I did when I took a break at Litlos, the clock has just passed seven o'clock when I close the door behind me, I stop walking just before the clock strikes eight. Then, I am at Reinsmyrtjørna and has found myself a nice campsite for the night. As expected, a small rainfall starts in the moment I am about to pitch my tent.

Dark clouds in the horizon on the other side of Nordmannslågen in the west.

Getting the tent up and standing goes quick this time and that is good. For in almost just the moment after I have got my backpack inside the outer tent and sat down underneath the canvas, the raindrops on the tent begin to pound harder. Then it sounds like there is a deluge outside, I am sure of that the raindrops now dances manically at the top of the tent. Inside the tent, this is just cozy, as long as the tent holds. Nothing else to do than to unpack my stuff, lie down and relax. Dinner has to wait.

One of several boardwalks you walk on before you get to Sandhaug.

After a while, the force of the rain diminishes, so I take the chance of getting out to prepare dinner. I manage to overturn the pot on the stove, so that all the water with my basis for the stew is spoiled on the ground. Rain begins to increase in intensity again. Fortunately, I had not put into the minced meat yet. The spaghetti I got hold of at Litlos to the rescue. For dinner I have pasta with minced meat, corn, pineapple and barley salad. Not so bad that either. I eat inside the tent, which probably was not the brightest of ideas I have had on my hike. Heat from the food forms condensation on the inside of the outer tent and it begins to drip. Luckily not in the part of the tent that is above the inner tent. Not too much either.

Reinsmyrtjørna, it is dark everywhere now.

Sleep gets me while the rain gently drums on the canvas, outside the inner tent mosquitos is buzzing

A small video from inside the tent when it rained as worst at Reinsmyrtjørna.

Map of the trail for the fourth day on Massiv, from Litlos to Reinsmyrtjørna.

<- Hårteigen - LitlosStigstu ->

Massiv // day 3 // Grøndalsvatni - Hårteigen - Litlos

Massiv day 3.
Distance: 20.9km (67.4km), time spent: 8:14 (23:33).
Ascent / descent: 721m (2324m) / 803m (2121m).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 1273m / 1192m / 1690m.
Weather: Changing between sunny and overcast.

To erect a tent next to a running river, could be an invitation for moist to come on an unwanted visit. There were no rain in the night, but even so, the tent is wet from condensation when I wake up in the morning. The prospects for a climb to the summit is not entirely bright, a quick look outside the tent, reveals a layer of clouds around Grøndalsvatni. It is chilly outside, I eat my breakfast inside the tent today as well. Today, my plan is to walk to Hårteigen, climb it, and then hike back to Litlos. My food supply dictates that it is necessary for me to spend two nights at a cabin.

River crossing at Grøndalsvatni, an easy crossing if you carry a light backpack, more difficult with a heavier one. My campsite was on the other side.

Oh lord, how my backpack weighs too much, I did not want to know how much, so I did not weigh it before I left home. The backpack does not get any lighter due to my tent has got wetter. Where the t-marked path crosses the outlet of the lake, you have to cross by walking on rocks, but some places it is too deep. With my heavy backpack, I do not take the chance on jumping, the additional weight will give me a nasty injury if I should miss. My feet get a refreshing start of the day.

The sun burning its way through the white and black dream-landscape at Grytevatnet.

My campsite was situated about midway between Litlos and Hårteigen, at the cabin they estimated roughly four hours to the peak. The two remaining hours to the foot of the mountain goes across a more and more sparse and rocky landscape, with elements of green and snow-dunes you have to cross. In the beginning, the clouds does not give way, but when I walk above Grytevatnet in a black and white dream-landscape, the contour of the sun is burning its way through the layers of clouds. Then below Grytenuten it clears, with a blue background that covers most of the sky. Above Hårteigen, there are only a few clouds drifting across. I can only go and hope that this is not the only window through the clouds during the day, if it is someone at the summit now, they have a good view.

The trail at the pass below Grytenuten. In the horizon, you can see a small glimpse of blue sky, next to it to the right lies the foot of Hårteigen, the summit enshrouded in clouds.

The scenery and the landmark becomes veiled again. I cross creeks and snow. And then Hårteigen is looming above me, it is hope. To get to the summit, you have to first climb up an area of scree consisting of large boulders, before you ascent through a steep hollow in the mountain. People I have talked to, said that it used to be a snowbank in the hollow before, which made it difficult sometimes to get up, but it is so reduced now that there are no problems. Ropes are attached to aid at the steepest part of the climb. After that, there is a very short section that may feel lofty for some. Next, you will follow a cool path that goes alongside the edge of the mountain, with great views, which leads to a passage that demands some easy scrambling with the aid of a wire. From there on and up, it is easy just to follow the cairns up to the summit. If the visibility is good, you will be rewarded all the way up.

Hårteigen. A lot of blue sky around, but the summit itself is partly veiled by clouds. You can see the cairn at the southern tip of the summit through the clouds.

I arrive at the top with a clear view to all sides, to a 360 degrees panorama of Hardangervidda. The girl I met on my way up, was not as lucky, she was at the summit while the clouds was still laying low. I feel unconceivable lucky, what better timing getting to the top at. Let go that it is not a totally clear blue sky, but the clouds encircling the mountain only make the view more dramatic. They alternate between being dark and light around, I can see rain here and there in the horizon, but here it is mostly sunny and a blue sky. Fantastic. Though, the wind packs some small punches.

On the way up Hårteigen next to a massive wall. Below you can see the path wind to and from the mountain. In the horizon lies Hardangervidda with the snow like white lakes spread across the landscape.

For a little while, I get the summit with the cairn all to myself. Can sit down and enjoy the view in solitude, like a small king on the hill, a small king on Hårteigen. Then the first hikers that comes from Torehytten begin appearing (with the exception of the aforementioned girl). First out is a Dutch father with his two sons. They told me that it had been completely full at Torehytten, people had to sleep everywhere. To get to the summit before a large group of scouts camping outside the cabin, they had started early. Twice earlier, they had walked past the mountain when there were no reason to climb up, now they were extremely pleased. I begin to hear voices coming from below.

View from the top of Hårteigen. To the left in the picture you can see Hardangerjøkulen.

When I first has climbed to the top and the views are great, I use the chance to explore the summit. Don't just go up and then down again right away. At the southern tip of the peak there is also a cairn, from it you can look steeply down at the mountainside and see the path far below that winds its way to and from the mountain. Most amusing is it to stand above the ravine and listen to the voices of the people on their way up, you can hear, but not see those that are on their way. Since there are so many climbing up, it takes longer time getting down again, there is a queue both ways at the wire and rope.

At the summit of Hårteigen, 1690m.

I had left my backpack behind at the foot of the mountain with a good reason, on the way up it felt as I was flying upwards. So light you feel without a backpack. With the sack on the back again, the gravity forces me to land. The route turns around and I walk again on the same path, but now with Hårteigen at my back. I did not try to look too much backwards when I walked to the mountain, so now it does feel a little bit like I go somewhere where I have not seen the view before. An all too late lunch is eaten in shelter for the wind next to Grytevatnet.

Hardangerjøkulen in the horizon. Dark rain clouds getting closer to the glacier from the east.

When I arrive at Litlos, almost too early to my liking, the weather is still nice (though there are some clouds). I consider just taking a break and then walk on, like yesterday, but I sink down in the recognition of staying put. Litlos is one of my favorites of the staffed cabins, it is nicely located above Litlosvatnet. It is also the cabin in northern Europe that is situated farthest away from a road, so you do feel being in a remote place staying here.

On the way down from Hårteigen, the path going alongside the edge after you have climbed up by the rope (or before if you are going down).

Yesterday, I was spying on the list of bookings for today, the list was quite long, it is going to be crowded at the cabin. The transition from being completely alone in my tent on the two previous evenings to sit inside a full living room at Litlos is quite big. Reindeer meat is served to dinner, to sleep over at a cabin is more costly, but the food is good and much, you get your fill. Outside it thickens, raindrops forms on the windows, perhaps it was good choice after all to stay here. In the evening, the lounge is filled by a quiet murmur of todays walks and where the journey continues. Litlos is a sort of a hub, here people are gathered, for then to be spread out in all directions again. I talk to some of the other visitors, play a card game together with a father and daughter that also are from Oslo.

A cold crossing over the outlet by Grøndalsvatni (for the second time today). I could probably have made it across with my boots on, but did not take the chance with my heavy backpack. The socks provides a better grip on the rocks, it does not help very much regarding the temperature of the water.

I was outside the grip of Massiv today, but tomorrow I will be back on the trail again. Of those recounting that they had to just walk past Hårteigen without climbing to the top, due to noe possibilities of a view from the summit, I feel incredibly lucky that I get to experience the top with a view in all directions.

Map of the trail for the third day on Massiv, from Grøndalsvatni to Hårteigen and then to Litlos

<- GrøndalsvatniReinsmyrtjørna ->

Massiv // day 2 // Sandflofossen - Grøndalsvatni

Massiv day 2.
Distance: 30.2km (46.5km), time spent: 11:12 (15:19).
Ascent / descent: 877m (1603m) / 945m (1318m).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 1341m / 1273m / 1427m.
Weather: Changing, from sun and some overcast, to overcast, ligth rain and back again.

Some rain during the night makes sure that the tent is something wet in the morning by the time I get up. The morning itself, however, is free of water in the air and there are suggestions of a blue sky, though it is no less cooler for that sake. The breakfasts I have brought with me, is not as 'sumptuous' as my dinners, it consists of crispbread, a simple fare. I am glad that I do not have to pack up my equipment and tent in rain, but even if it does not drip from the sky, I cannot shake the tent completely dry, so it goes back into my backpack slightly wet and thus heavier.

Morning sky above Sandflofossen, just after leaving.

How far I go today depends mostly on the weather. I want to climb Hårteigen, so my plan is to walk in that direction, but it means little climbing to the top if it is shrouded in clouds. So I will decide what I do when I get to Litlos, where I can get a weather forecast. The most distinctive landmark on the western part of Hardangervidda is not situated on the trail, so this will mean a small deviation from Massiv if the weather holds.

View from Årmoteggi, down towards Dyredokk and further in the direction towards Hellevassbu you walk relatively steep down on snow.

To create something around the Massiv trail, DNT has introduced a so-called Massiv-passport, a small paper card where you can get a stamp for each cabin you pass on the trail. If you get a stamp for each cabin (stage) in one of the areas of the route, you can get a badge for the given area, five in total (one extra for completing the trail). By registering your passport on the homepage of the trail, you can by completing Massive be incorporated into the Hall of Fame. That is not so important for me really, but at Hellevassbu I get the second stamp in my pass (Haukeliseter being the first).

At Sudskar, where you look down upon Hellevassbu. Hellevassbu is a small and pleasant self serviced cabin located in a remote area.

Going to Hellevassbu from Haukeliseter, you will pass Simletindvatnet and Simletind. On my first solo hike, I was camping below Simletind. In the evening, I sat beneath the top and peered up against it, there was something very strange about the view, though I could not really put words on what was wrong with it. It was like the whole top was moving, but at the same time stood still, like something unfocused. Then I saw that it was a large herd of reindeer swarming around, it was something of a magical experience. No reindeer herd to see on this day, but the weather and walk to Hellevassbu have been nice. At the cabin, there are already a few guests, though it is still early in the day.

The path above Buadalen, before you go down towards Sigridtjørni.

The clouds above are denser when I walk to Litlos, where the approximately 16 kilometers to the cabin goes through a wild, desolate and rocky area. Although the mountains in Jotunheimen and Hurrungane are more spectacular, I feel, however, that I am in a more desolate and wild area than in those areas. It does not feel so overcrowded here as it is there (though there could be a lot of people in Hardangervidda as well), I meet few other hikers. Along the way, the sun and blue sky appears again for a brief visit, and in the horizon the distinct shape of Hårteigen is towering, before the clouds remember the overcast weather.

Another snow-dune on the way to Litlos. This one situated beneath Velurenuten. The lake in the foreground is Klerkatjønn, the lake in the background is Kvennsjøen. The distinct shape in the horizon is Hårteigen.

The bridge near the cottages at Søre Belebotnen.

To a tired walker, the last part of the walk to Litlos could be a little bit discouraging, you see the cabin long before you will get to it. When you see the buildings in the horizon, you will not see the lake that lies between you and the cabin at first. Then around one hour of walking follows, where you feel that you go and go without really getting any closer to your goal. Now I am fortunately not so tired. Litlos is one of the nicest cabins on Hardangervidda and it feels good to get inside in the warmth for a break.

Skadvassbekken with Holken behind. You pass by this river on the way to Grøndalsvatni (on the route towards Torehytten and Hårteigen).

The weather forecast for tomorrow is promising, supposedly similar weather as today, only warmer. Now with that sorted out, my plans for tomorrow is given. I sit in the cozy living room in Litlos overlooking the water for quite a while. Ends up having a cold beer, actually two, before I put on my backpack again and continue towards the looming figure of Hårteigen in the horizon. The clock has passed six in the afternoon when I leave, while others arrive at the cabin.

View down towards Mjølrakkerinden and Holken, the characteristic rock in the middle of the picture is Skadvassnuten.

Outside, the weather is kind of sultry, but it does not rain. Not until I put down my backpack at Grøndalsvatni to pitch my tent. Typical. About two hours after I left Litlos, I feel that it is ok to stop walking for the evening. There are several good camping spots just where the trail crosses the outlet of the lake, though the ground is wet. For someone, it would be tempting to test their luck with the fishing rod in the lake, but I left my fishing rod behind at home.

Hårteigen dominates the horizon the closer I get to it.

What little of rain that arrived has fortunately stopped when it is time to prepare dinner outside in the evening. Today, it is a meat stew that forms the basis of the dish, as yesterday, I will add a lot of minced meat, and the side 'orders' will be barley salad. The dinner is served with a nice view and chilly temperature. A colored rim is forming between the mountains and clouds when the sun call it the day.

Campsite at Grøndalsvatni.

To creep into my sleeping bag after sitting outside and cooling down for a little bit too long, feels good, to feel the warmth creep back into the body. At the same time it does make you drowsy after having been outside almost all the day. I like to have some time to relax and calm down after walking, but I do not have too much of a time at my disposal before sleep gets the upper hand (which is of course also a way to relax and calm down on). Reading a little in the light from my headlamp makes time go by, I have brought with me some good Spanish licor de café (coffee liqueur) to enjoy in my tent before I go to sleep.

Map of the trail for the second day on Massiv, from Sandflofossen to Grøndalsvatni past Litlos.

<- SandflofossenHårteigen - Litlos ->

Massiv // day 1 // Haukeliseter - Sandflofossen

Massiv day 1.
Distance: 16.3km (16.3km), time spent: 4:07 (4:07).
Ascent / descent: 726m (726m) / 373m (373m).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 988m / 1341m / 1378m.
Weather: Overcast but stable in the beginning, then rain and a lot of wind, overcast in the evening.

Massiv is a new long distance trail made by the Norwegian trekking association, Den Norske Turistforening (DNT). It has been given its name since it is going through four massive mountain areas in Norway, massive and iv. The trail begins at Sota Sæter from where it passes through Breheimen, Jotunheimen, Skarvheimen and Hardangervidda where it ends at Haukeliseter, it is about 350km long. This summer, my plan was to go on a walkabout on Hardangervidda and finally get to the top of Hårteigen. I have wanted to climb that mountain so many times, but I have never got to do it. Then the thought of hiking the Massiv trail hit me.

Homemade vacuum-packed dinner for my hike. Four bags of minced meat that I have fried and dried, four bags of basis for a stew (from the shop) and four bags of barley salad.

However, when I checked the timetable for the bus from Oslo to Dønfoss bridge for today (Monday), it was not exactly many seats available, in fact there were none. I considered taking the night bus, although I am not very enthusiastic about sitting up during the night unable to sleep, something I cannot do on a bus. Sota Sæter is located about 30 kilometres from where the bus stops. There is a taxi service available, which on certain days only charges a bus fare for the ride. Not today. I have to pay the usual taxi fare for the ride. Since I had to take a night bus and pay about thousand (Norwegian) kroner (NOK) to get to Sota Sæter, I have instead chosen to reverse the route and start from Haukeliseter. That way, I get to do a walkabout on Hardangervidda after all. I have a week available, it should suffice to get me to Finse.

From the start of my hike on Massiv, on the ascent from Haukeliseter. The trail originally begins from Sota Sæter going southwards, but I have chosen to reverse the route and walk it from here. I will only go for one week, which will allow me to complete the Hardangervidda-section of the trail. Overcast in the beginning, but dark clouds are threatening.

The bus going to Haukeliseter (Haukeliekspressen) is not arriving until around half past three, so there will be a late start for me. After a small but good meal and two beers(?), I begin walking. My first hike alone in the mountains also started here from the DNT cabin at Haukeliseter, I remember that the ascent from the cabin felt like an eternal climb. It has become easier over the years.

View over Loftsdokktjønn, still small glimpses of blue sky are visible.

The sky is overcast at the start of the hike, many clouds, in the horizon they are dark, but no rain. It is nice weather for walking, but when I am at the top of the pass below Vesle Nup, before going down towards Mannevatn, rain is coming. With the low temperature, rain and wind, the walk now makes me feel chilly. The rain takes a break down by Mannvatn, but towards Holmasjøen it picks up again. On my said first hike, I camped down by the lake, then it was sunny and warm, now it is anything but that.

Dark clouds above Haukeliseter when I am on my way into the wilderness, with rain clearly visible above the DNT cabin alongside the E134.

The rain finally came when I was below Vesle Nup, for a short while, everything of view in the mountains were grey and imprenetable. Gusty and cold.

I do not have all the time in the world today, due to the late start. When I arrive at the small bridge that crosses the river above Sandflofossen, I call it the day, with the clock being a quarter past eight. There will still be bright for some time, but I want to have some time in the evening to relax. Back home, my first thought was that I should be able to get to Simletindvatnet, but then I saw that reaching Holmasjøen would be more realistic, this was a reasonable compromise. Not only due to the time. At Holmasjøen, the wind was blowing fiercely, but after the lake you cross a hill. On the other side of the hill, where I have stopped, there is shelter from the wind. I have been out for four hours and managed to walk about 16 kilometers, I should feel content with it.

Holmasjøen, planned to stop and camp at this lake, but despite the dark clouds it is still bright enough to be able to proceed further. In addition, the wind was blowing sharply and camping in shelter from the wind is preferable.

Fortunately, the rain has subsided for the moment when I find a place to pitch my tent, but the ground is wet all over. The walk from Haukeliseter was still nice, in spite of the weather. I have hiked here several times, this being one of my favorite mountain areas in Norway. And I especially enjoy it here in this part of the plateau, which is the western part of Hardangervidda, this part feels more wild and rugged than the eastern part.

Pitch black on the other side of Holmasjøen, and a fierce wind.

The biggest problem that I find with Massiv, is that the trail looks planned to pass by as many as possible of the staffed cabins. That is all very well in its own way, spending an evening and a night at one of DNT's staffed cabins in the mountains is a luxury, but for those who want to camp (like me), it poses a small problem. Food. The route passes by very few self-served cabins, where it is possible to buy provisions on the way. Another thing is that it is expensive in the long run to stay at the staffed cabins, considering accommodation, the three-course dinner, breakfast and packed lunch. Not to mention if you have a crawing for wine or beer. I do not want to carry food for a whole week, so I will base myself on two stays in cabins along the way (the cabins in mind are Litlos and Krækkja).

Satisfied with the walk, even though it is windy, gusty and cold. On my way across a hill towards Sandflofossen, during a break in the rain.

My campsite above Sandflofossen.

I have carried dinner for four nights in my backpack. Not a commercial freeze-dried food like Real turmat that you get here in Norway, or something like that. This time, I have prepared my own food. Fried and dried minced meat, which I have vacuum-packed together with corn and pineapple. Four bags. Then I split up two bags of stew basis that you get from the store, into four bags. In addition, I vacuum-packed a barley salad for each dinner.
I prepare my first dinner on my hike, while I am sitting outside and freezing a little. It is chilly and definitely not warm in the mountains now. I start by cooking up my casserole, in which I have put water and one of the bags of stew basis, before I mix into one of the bags of minced meat, served with salad. It works great and the food tastes really good (though, almost everything tastes good when you are in the mountains and are hungry), the view while eating is also quite nice.

Dinner in the evening, my homemade food felt just as good as the hiking food I get from the sports store. A pasta stew with a lot of minced meat, together with a barley salad.

When I have crawled into my tent, the rain returns, though only a light drizzle. After a long bus ride from Oslo to Haukeliseter and a hike in varying weather, I am too sleepy to stay awake for long. A warmness spreads in my body after tucking my self into my sleeping bag, which does not help when it comes to stay awake. Rain drums lightly on the canvas, from outside, I can hear the roar of the river, my eyes slowly closes.

Map of the trail for the first day on Massiv, from Haukeliseter to Sandflofossen.

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