GR20 // day 7 // Paglia Orba

Distance: 3.5km, altitude at start: 1991m, altitude at end: 1991m, highest point: 2525m.

Without comparison by the way, but to climb Paglia Orba is a little bit like climbing K2 in relation to Everest. Monte Cinto is higher like Everest is in relation to K2, but Paglia Orba is supposedly more difficult. So I'm a little bit excited when I'm going up the path from Refuge de Ciottulu di I Mori towards the source of the Golo river. The backpack is left back at the cabin, on my back I've got my little Ultra-Sil day pack (65g). In it I've got some food, water and clothes.

Up towards the source of the Golo river between Capu Tafunatu and Col de Maures (to the right in the picture). Col de Maures is a sort of a preliminary summit to Paglia Orba.

The stones are changing both in color and in shape up along the trail, a reddish hue takes over the colors around me. No other colors are discernible on the stones; there isn't any marked route up to the summit. Small cairns shows the way, but there are several of them, which make me have to choose which route of cairns I'll trust. At the source, almost no water is seen. I'm now standing between the two characteristic summits of Capu Tafunatu and Paglia Orba.

Further up is another hole in the mountain; it's shaped almost like the Batman-symbol. It makes you wonder if it's a hidden Batcave in the mountain.

Batman-symbol in the mountainsides of Paglia Orba.

I follow a line of cairns up the right of the Source du Golo, and the trail that has been easy so far is now getting more and more steeper. It's not always clear where the trail is leading. From the other side my movements are being watched, the one-eyed giant of Capu Tafunatu is following me with his eagle eye.

How the hole in the mountain has been created is a source of argument between geologists. But the only reasonable theory is that the hole is formed for a considerable time ago during a feud between the Archangel Gabriel and the devil. One of these gentlemen chased the other with heavy fire. In a critical situation the one being chased, whether it was the archangel or the devil, held up a large piece of rock in front of him as a shield. This piece of rock was then left standing, in the pierced condition you now will find it, as Capu Tafunatu.

On the way up towards Paglia Orba. From high above I can look down towards Ciottulu di I Mori.

The ascent goes over to become climbing. Below me Ciottulu di I Mori gets smaller and smaller. In the horizon clouds are on their way. I try to remember the path I'm going. Then the climbing gets more serious, and I have to look closely after where the cairns are located.

Then at some point I find myself on a small ledge. To get up to the ledge I had to put away both my backpack and my camera, before lifting myself up to the ledge. Going down again from the ledge I have to be extra careful. I don't have to go far out before I will take the quickest way down from the mountain; in my guidebook it says 'then up an exposed little scramble where you simply cannot afford to slip'. It certainly looks like I'm on the right way. This is definitely more demanding than what I've done so far, including the Cirque de la Solitude.

Up where I took the wrong turn at Paglia Orba.

After a short climb I now stand before a considerably larger challenge than expected. I notice that my heart is starting to beat a little bit faster than before. From here the only way further is straight up; although a rope is hanging down at the side of the cliff I don't feel completely comfortable. In the book there is no mentioning of a rope, and how safe is the rope secured? A doubt is entering my mind, and there was some notion of an honorable retreat. But then I look around and below and on the other side of the shelf I climbed, I can now see a cairn. I've taken the wrong turn.

I shake off the little uneasiness and then continue on. It's still a bit of serious climbing up from where the cairn is, and I should be careful. Then I'm standing at the top of Col de Maures and looks over to the summit of Paglia Orba. There seems to be a lot of life there all of a sudden. I get the sort of feeling you would get if you had tired yourself climbing up a mountain and then finds out that there is a cableway or something going up to the top (but, it's always more satisfying to climb up by yourself than being carried up).

View from Paglia Orba in the direction of Monte Cinto, which is located to the right in the picture. Great view from the top that lies at an altitude of 2525 meters.

I arrive at the summit of Paglia Orba, and this time I've got a greater feeling of having accomplished something. The view is a great reward for the climb, although a number of clouds has drifted in over the country and are hiding parts of it. I can gaze towards the massive summit of Monte Cinto. Clouds are drifting over the Cirque de la Solitude. To the south the summit of Monte Ritondu is the most prominent peak, with Monte d'Oro coming behind. Paglia Orba at 2525 meters, which by the way means something like 'curved straw', has been conquered.

View in the direction of Calacuccia.

On the way back I find out that the group I saw on their way down from the top had climbed up using another way, that route seems to consists of several parts where you have to use ropes that is attached to the mountain. I take my own route back.

Even though I have to look closely sometimes, it's easy finding the same way back down again. On the way down the last part before being back at the cabin, I meet a couple of others that are trying to climb to the hole in Capu Tafunatu. I give it a thought, but my knees are tired after today's endeavors and I'm still not sure whether I will stay at Ciottulu or if I will continue further on towards Castel di Verghio. And I yearn for a well-earned beer.

On the way down again. Clouds drifting by. The hole in Capu Tafunatu is guarding me climbing down from Paglia Orba.

<- Ciottulu di I MoriManganu ->

GR20 // day 7 // U Vallone - Ciottulu di I Mori

Distance: 6km, altitude at start: 1440m, altitude at end: 1991m, highest point: 2050m.

Yet another exciting day lies ahead of me. From the Bergeries de Vallone the GR20 goes up towards Refuge de Ciottulu di I Mori. Above me towers Paglia Orba, the third highest mountain on Corsica, and Capu Tafunatu that observes you with its eye when you climb up towards the highest situated cabin on the route.

Nice weather in the morning when I leave Bergeries de Vallone. The time here at the auberge was one of the best stays at the journey.

It's a great morning, far from the grey and dull weather that lay spread out over the mountains for just a couple of days ago. Coming down from Refuge de Tighjettu hikers are now steadily walking past the auberge. I'm being pulled along into the shadows of the forest nearby by the queue of people walking by. The first part of the walk is a pleasant wandering through the woods pass the Ravin de Paglia Orba and up along the Ruisseau de Foggiale. In between there are openings between the trees where you can enjoy the view down the valley in the direction of Calacuccia and Albertacce, above the canopy Paglia Orba is towering.

Paglia Orba towering high above the trail.

Then the trees are gradually thinning out, indicating that I have started the ascent towards Bocca di Foggiale. The view gets better and better and more of the artificial lake of Calacuccia gets visible. It's a steep walk, and I can feel it a little bit in my knees. In my guidebook it says that mouflons often can be seen grassing on the slopes of the mastodon of a mountain above me, but I look in vain for the animals.

Great view when ascending up the steep walk towards Bocca di Foggiale.

The wind sweeps over me with great force when I come up to Bocca di Foggiale. The eye in Capu Tafunatu is looking wonderingly down upon me from high above. Looking back, I can't do anything than what I've been doing so often on the GR20, and that is to enjoy the view. From Bocca di Foggiale I can see the trail go along hills all clad in green.

I continue upwards and then I can look down upon Refuge de Ciottulu di I Mori. This is the highest situated cabin on the GR20, lying at an altitude of 1991 meters. It will be cold here in a tent during the night. The cabin is actually the nicest cabin so far on the GR20. It's built by stones, and it's actually quite nice inside as well for a change. The terrace outside has a great view towards the Golo-valley below. In the horizon there are mountains upon mountains.

Looking down the valley in the direction of Calacuccia and Albertacce.

The plan now is to relax a little bit at the cabin before attacking the mastodon above, Paglia Orba. The mountain is said to be more challenging to climb than Monte Cinto. I order an omelet with ham for lunch. Then I put on my mountaineer-hat and goes on a mission towards the third highest mountain on the island.

Bocca di Foggiale.

Down by the cabin again I decide to stay for the night. My knees are tired and Castel di Verghio doesn't look tempting. Another stay at a ski station next to a road isn't what I'm looking for now. So I find myself a nice place for the tent and make anything ready for a cold night. Clouds starts drifting in over the mountains.

From the terrace at Refuge de Ciottulu di I Mori. Great view over the Golo-valley, which I will walk down at the start of tomorrow's stage.

A helicopter flies over the cabin before taking a round along the mountainsides and then disappears into the clouds, the sound slowly getting quieter. A rescue helicopter? The Golo-valley is now only visible through a thin veil. With the sun hidden behind the clouds it gets cold quite fast. Paglia Orba is as the sun now hidden from my eyes.

Someone else at the cabin had walked up to the eye in Capu Tafunatu; I have some regrets that I didn't do the same. But my knees aren't, and at the time I was still unsure whether I should be staying at Ciottulu or continuing towards Castel di Verghio. Later on in the evening it looks like its smoking from Tafunatu, when dense clouds are being blown through the hole in the mountain. Perhaps it is fog from Valle Nebbia that drifts through the opening in Tafunatu.

Up towards Capu Tafunatu (to the left in the picture) and Paglia Orba. Col de Maures to the right in the picture, the summit of Paglia Orba lies behind the smaller top.

Darkness falls over the landscape and it gets cold outside. Pitch dark as well. A group of locals are having a cheerful time inside the cabin. Most of the hikers have gone to bed, early as usual. It had apparently really been joyful here yesterday. Two persons had fallen out of the beds in the dormitory, quite drunk, someone had thrown up. I'm glad I wasn't here then.

My tent space at Ciottulu di I Mori.

It could explain why the gardien at the cabin was grumpy. Later I've been told that he isn't that fond of foreigners (that probably includes French people from the mainland). You could then ask yourself why he chooses this kind of work. By taking a job as a gardien on a cabin along the GR20 there are two things that are certain, you will meet people and many of them will guaranteed be foreigners.

Refuge de Ciottulu di I Mori.

Despite of that, it was a nice stay at the cabin. It is fantastic situated above the valley. The dinner was quite good and it was cozy inside. I shiver a little bit when I crawl into my sleeping bag, a cold night ahead of me. I'm very pleased to have climbed to the top of Paglia Orba and all the cold nights in the world can't do anything about that.

Smokes rises from the eye in Capu Tafunatu. Clouds drifting through the hole and creates an illusion that it smokes from the mountain.

<- U VallonePaglia Orba ->

GR20 // day 6 // Haut Asco - U Vallone

Distance: 9km, altitude at start: 1422m, altitude at end: 1440m, highest point: 2218m.

I'm up early, quite excited to see what the weather is like. There's already one headlamp outside in the dark on its way to the solitude. This is the day that many dread, but for me it's a day I've been looking forward to for a long time, in several ways. Most of all because today I will do the dreaded Cirque de la Solitude, but also because I finally will continue on the GR20. The weather is great; I stifle a small shout of joy.

A lovely sunrise on my way up towards Col Perdu from Haut Asco. I'm finally on my way again on the GR20.

A little lake above where the former Refuge d'Altore was. Pic von Cube and Punta Minuta towers above and behind me, between the spires lies Col Perdu.

To a background painted red by the sunrise I finally leave Haut Asco and starts walking towards Col Perdu or Bocca Tumasginesca. Monte Cinto is following me with eagle eyes; from here it looks even steeper up to the summit than it was. It feels great to be on my way again, 'never stop walking'. It's a beautiful light over the valley when I'm passing where the old route joins the trail.

Coming up where the Refuge d'Altore was located, the rocks have taken over for the vegetation. Nothing left to indicate there was a cabin here, only a sign in the mountainside. The mountains around Monte Cinto are hiding the sun. A cold wind makes it sour and gusty the last climb up towards Col Perdu. A little lake lies quiet beneath Pic von Cube. I'm getting closer to the Cirque. The view gets gradually better and better, more and more mountains are visible beyond the ridge behind me.

The Cirque de la Solitude. View from Bocca Tumasginesca, also known as Col Perdu. From here I can look down into the abyss that awaits me. My body is itching; I'm looking forward to start the traverse.

On the way down into the Cirque de la Solitude. Over me the trail goes very steep down the mountainside.

Then I'm up at Col Perdu and can gaze down into the abyss. People are already on their way through the Cirque de la Solitude, far down below and on both sides of the passage. It's really steep down. I take a short break at the pass and enjoy the view of the cleft I'm going to pass. Then I descend into the abyss, going almost 300 meters straight down at the start. There are chains available on the most exposed places. A part of the path looks like a natural stairway that is made of stones.

The descent is fun, but you have to keep your concentration up. There is a formidable view towards the valley below at the bottom of the passage, but the view back up from where you came from is almost just as impressive. Over me many hikers are moving downwards following the chains and the red and white markers. I look up at the other side and the climb up towards Bocca Minuta is no less steep than the climb down from Bocca Tumasginesca. It goes 300 meters straight up that way to.

Halfway through the Cirque. The view from the deep and out towards the valley below is fantastic.

You start the climb up by climbing up an iron ladder, and then there are more parts with chains up steep sides of bare rock. I'm having a great time doing the Cirque. Yet, there is no arguing that in rain and bad weather this will be a complete different experience. At a time I meet a group of walkers on their way down from Bocca Minuta, who gets a little panicky when I comes climbing quite fast upwards. Two of the members of the group need to be led down by the guide; they don't look comfortably going down the Cirque at all. I have to jump up to a little ledge to let them pass, so not to make them even more uncomfortable.

The climb up towards Bocca Minuta starts by climbing an iron ladder.

Bocca Minuta. View back towards Col Perdu after completed the Cirque de la Solitude. Up from the deep and into the warmth in the sun. People are still descending into the passage on the other side, and still others are down in the cleft.

At Bocca Minuta I emerge from the shade and into the light from the sun. I've been walking in shade through the passage. Here at the pass it's warm and I can gaze back towards the other side of the passage and down into it. People are still on their way down into the passage from Col Perdu. To the south I look down at the valley below and can see Paglia Orba towering to the southwest. I had a great time doing the Cirque.

I dare the claim that 'the Cirque de la Solitude is an urban legend'. But by that I don't mean that it's not dangerous, or that it's not hard. But people fear it so much because they've read so much about it that they make up such great thoughts about how difficult it is. And then it just got worse and worse the more who hear the same story. The fear of it makes it harder than it really is. If you take it easy, is concentrated and is careful where you walk, you'll have no problem doing it. That being said, you should of course be careful. In rainy weather you should be extra careful.

Lunch at Refuge de Tighjettu. Bread, a plate with good Corsican meat and an ice cold Pietra.

Refuge de Tighjettu. A curious building balanced on wooden pillars.

With the Cirque de la Solitude behind me I look towards the sunny valley below me. At Refuge de Tighjettu I buy myself a plate with good Corsican meat and a Pietra for lunch, which I eat outside in the hot weather. I really like the posting in the cabin stating that it's a disco and a piano bar there. It's a nice place, but my plan is to go further to the Bergeries de Vallone. The path down is a nice walk pass little pools along the Ruisseau de Stranciacone. Trees are now rising up on both sides of the trail. Behind me Bocca Minuta is now seen high above.

View from the valley beneath Tighjettu. High up lies Bocca Minuta, Refuge de Tighjettu below.

There are few people at Bergeries de Vallone when I arrive; it looks like most of the hikers choose to spend the night at Tighjettu, so I can choose at will the best place for my tent. It's a great place, with nice places to sit inside and a nice terrace on the outside. They even got a shot shower here, but I don't use it. Instead it's more tempting with a bath in the pools in the river that runs pass the auberge. Cold, but it's nice to sit and warm myself in the sun on the rocks.

View down the valley below Bergeries de Vallone, a great place.

The rest of the afternoon and evening is something of a fairy tale up in the mountains, with good food and drink. Someone will probably say that I should be proud of doing the Cirque de la Solitude, I look back towards it because I had a great time doing it. The sky is crystal clear; it will be a cold night.

Bergeries de Vallone.

<- Monte CintoCiottulu di I Mori ->

GR20 // day 5 // Monte Cinto

Distance: 12km, altitude at start: 1422m, altitude at end: 1422m, highest point: 2706m.

It poured down during the night. In the morning though, there are almost no clouds on the sky. Only far down in the valley below Haut Asco can I see any. My legs are itching, the wait is over and I can finally continue to walk again. That is, I only have to climb a mountain first. Monte Cinto is the highest mountain on Corsica with its 2706 meters above sea level. Those 2706 meters and the Cirque de la Solitude have stood like a buffer between me and the rest of the GR20 for some days now.

The valley up along the Ruisseau de Tighjettu. No menacing clouds over the valley. Only a green and lush valley that changes to bare rock where the mountains breaks loose from the vegetation.

The valley up along the Ruisseau de Tighjettu appears quite different now that the heavy cover of clouds has vanished. Even the sound of the water that runs through the river seems more relaxed. By the bridge over the river I can now clearly see the towering spires over me, mighty as they are. I pass a large group of Germans on my way upwards, the very same group that I met when I was at Refuge de Sega.

View back down towards the Asco-valley.

The trail is going steep upwards between La Tour Penchee, which is hanging leaning over the pass, and Capu Borba. I can see in direct line up at Monte Cinto. Haut Asco far below has hidden itself behind a spire of rock, the sun likewise. There is a lot of shade here in the start of the day. Some parts demands scrambling over stone and rocks. Looking back at yesterday's ambitious plan I think it was the right decision to turn back.

A group of wanderers on their way up to Monte Cinto beneath Capu Borba. I later climbed up on top of the little spire behind the group.

I pass the Lac d'Argentu before the trail now gets even steeper and goes up towards the ridge below the top, over scree and some big rocks. I catch up with the couple that also took a shot at Cinto yesterday. At the top of the ridge there is a great view. I can see the summit, which lies just a little bit away now, but I can also see the weather to the south that has been kept hidden from me so far. That is, I can't see anything at all. To the south of Monte Cinto is a huge cloud system that hides anything behind it.

View back towards the little valley I've climbed up from on my way up to Monte Cinto.

Instead of following the ridge to the summit, the path now descends down on the south side. And it's a little bit of an awkward path between big boulders that has to be passed, inside the layers of clouds. After a while it goes up again and I can again look over the clouds. There the summit of Monte Cinto towers over me and after a short time I'm standing on the top of Corsica. The view to the north is fantastic; the view to the south is all white. But, in between I get small glimpses of what hides behind the white horizon. I can see Calacuccia, which is an artificial lake, emerge from the veil.

On the top of Monte Cinto, 2706m.

A bird with a view. View to the north from Monte Cinto.

To the north I can point out where the trail goes over the mountains to Haut Asco. Mighty mountains in the distance, and Calvi. Yet, what I was most interested in was to look to the south and be able to see in the direction where I'm going towards. Towards Paglia Orba not the least.

View from Monte Cinto.

A small party has gathered on the top now, and while I enjoy my lunch I can hear several different languages around me. A flock of ravens lands besides me, looking for crumbs. The sun is now warming. Far below lies the little lake, Lac d'Argentu, like an eye and looks up at me. I stay at the summit for over an hour. To the north, some clouds are drifting in over the mountains.

View back towards Haut Asco, the mountains that I've passed over and the valley with the little lake Lac d'Argentu beneath the top.

On the way down again I meet the group of Germans not far away from the top. In the direction of the Cirque de la Solitude trails of clouds are reaching up between the tall spires. I pay a visit to the clear and green waters of Lac d'Argentu on my way down, but no bath this time.

Lac d'Argentu.

Below Capu Borba a small spire is standing, on the other side of the valley from the leaning La Tour Penche, which I climb on top of. From the rock you can see straight down on the landscape below. More clouds over Monte Cinto in the background now, the evening clouds have announced their arrivals.

View up towards Monte Cinto on the way down. La Tour Penche towering to the right. The trail goes up along the mountainside to the left in the picture.

I feel it's necessary to celebrate with a cold beer on the terrace when I'm back at Haut Asco. From here the summit is now partly covered by clouds. Less people around as well, most of the people that has been here waiting for better weather has now taken the opportunity to pass the Cirque de la Solitude and continued on the GR20. It awaits me tomorrow, which I'm really looking forward to. This was a great day, which was crowned on the top of Corsica.

<- Haut AscoU Vallone ->

GR20 // day 4 // Haut Asco

It's gray and heavy weather outside, not much lighter as the weather forecast predicted. Despite of the conditions I've decided to start hiking up towards Monte Cinto, with a small hope that the weather will be better. Mike and Zoe have decided to move on and do the Cirque de la Solitude in the rain. After saying goodbye I start walking into the fog.

Heavy clouds drift between the trees above Haut Asco.

The grey weather lies menacing over the valley, peaks emerges from the fog high above. There are no signs of any kind that the weather will lighten up. Deer are scuttling away just above me. I cross the bridge over Ruisseau de Tighjettu. Then the path goes steep upwards and I have to do some scrambling to get further. The wet stones make the surface slippery. I admire the towering spires that lean above me, only the peaks can be seen.

A grey landscape on the way up towards Monte Cinto in the valley along Ruisseau de Tighjettu.

After scrambling a little bit upwards it starts to rain. From here I can't even see Monte Cinto. I probably won't see anything from the top and I reckon that going down again could prove to be quite demanding. I decide to turn back. A little way down I meet two boys from the Czech Republic that also wanted to have a go at the summit. They keep on walking upwards, I continue down again. It rains even more now. Then I meet a couple who has planned to go up to the summit and then on to the Refuge de Tighjettu. They keep on walking upwards, I continue down again. I know I'm going to be mad and envy them if they do get up and gets a view above the clouds.

Deer in the mountains around Haut Asco and Monte Cinto.

I spend the rest of the day at Haut Asco, waiting. To keep me occupied I put my tent up for drying, goes for a walk to a little summit above the ski station, drinks Pietra, eat dinner and reads in my book. Later on I meet the two Czech boys and the couple, they'd all turned back almost at the same spot that I turned back. I go to bed with the rumor of nice weather the next day.

Dark spires emerge from the clouds above Ruisseau de Tighjettu.

<- IntermissionMonte Cinto ->

GR20 // intermission // Corte, A Boucle Des Deux Vallees

After three days on the GR20 it is full stop, even if it's nearly no clouds in the sky when I'm looking out of the tent friday morning. It's forbidden to walk and I, among others, am a little bit confused. After a lot of ifs and buts the result is that I take the navette down to Ponte-Leccia together with Laurits and Agnes (and lots of other hikers). But when it leaves Haut Asco I have a feeling that it's a wrong choice. But the choice is made, and from Ponte-Leccia I take the train to Corte, the former capital of Corsica.

Out from Corte.

So, I get an intermission from GR20 and I'm being relegated from being a hiker to being a tourist again. However, I get my first hot shower since leaving Ajaccio four days ago. Corte is a very nice town, but you get to see what it has to offer during one full day. The highlight being the view from the top of the castle, which itself is located on a cliff on the top of the town.

Cut off from the GR20 my hiking gaze is set upon the two valleys that goes up to the mountains from Corte, the Restonica and Tavignanu valleys. On saturday (I arrived yesterday on friday) I decide to do a one day hike up to the Refuge de Sega, which is located in the Tavignanu valley. From Sega you can get to the GR20 by following a trail that goes up to the Refuge de Manganu. It's about five and a half hour up to the cabin, but I'll probably spend a shorter time since I'll walk with a lighter backpack.

The Tavignanu valley. The path is winding itself up through the valley with mountains on both sides.

The Tavignanu is a beautiful valley which follows the river that carries the same name, up towards the mountains high above. There are no roads in the valley, so if you want to see the valley your feet are your only way of transportation (going on horse could probably be arranged). I'm not alone with the idea of hiking up to Sega. A little way up in the valley I meet Mike and Zoe, a couple from Australia that also left Haut Asco yesterday, and we walk together the rest of the way up to the cabin. The trail is almost always going upwards, but it's easy and nice to walk on. Just before we arrive at the cabin it starts to rain. Dark and ominous clouds lie over the mountains and the GR20 further up.

Refuge de Sega.

The Refuge de Sega is located in a very nice spot alongside the river, which contains some really tempting pools. The inside of the cabin is much more spacious than has been in the cabins so far on my journey. We eat lunch on the terrace outside the cabin, a little cold after the walk in the rain. People have begun to come down from GR20. People were being sent down from Ciottulu di I Mori due to the possibility of snow we were told. There is thunder in the distance.

Little, black and yellow reptiles are scuttling over the path when we are starting the walk down towards Corte again. Where the sky is pitch-dark over Corte down below, there is now sun over us. By Punta Rossulini I take a bath in the pools beneath the bridge. I arrive at the mountain town with thunder breathing over my neck. I meet up again with Mike and Zoe for a drink in haute ville de Corte, while the thunder weather is released upon the town. The weather forecast has now extended the days of bad weather apparently. Truth be told, I'm a little bit frustrated by the news, despite having had a nice trip up the Tavignanu-valley.

A curious black and yellow little creature, that emerged when it rained.

Thunderstorm over Tavignanu.

I decide to use the extended break from GR20 to do 'a boucle des deux vallees'. It's a two-day hike that goes from Corte to Refuge de Sega through the Tavignanu-valley, for then to go over the Alzo-plateau to the Restonica-valley and down back to Corte again. This means I'll go up to Sega again. As a diversion from yesterday I take an alternative route towards the cabin after Punta Rossulini, this path goes on the right side of the river. As with yesterday it starts to rain just before I arrive at the cabin.

Punta Rossulinu. Nice pools in the Tavignanu-river that runs under the bridge.

I spend a nice evening at the cabin, while the rain is pouring down outside. Less nice is it at night when I awakes at two o'clock and has to go outside the safe confines of my tent. When I look out of the tent I see that there is almost a full dam or river underneath it. It's raining heavy and the soil is unable to keep up with all the water that is coming. The morning after the water is gone, but the tent is standing left soaked and dirty. Luckily it had stayed dry inside, I'd be able to keep the water outside. Above me, the clouds are drifting through the trees in mountainsides.

Raindrops are shining in the sunlight on my way up towards the Alzo-plateau. More of the weird black and yellow creatures are seen crawling on the path. Smoke rises from a tree, created by the warmth given from the sun. The ruins of a bergerie are passed. Over the Alzo-plateau the fog is coming gliding towards me and descends upon the landscape like a moist blanket, mythical beings are walking hidden from the eye in the mist. A fairy atmosphere. The Bergeries d'Alzo is quiet, doesn't seems to be anyone there now. I pass several other farms. The trail disappears into the clouds on the way down towards the Restonica-valley.

Bergeries d'Alzo in the mist.

Fog drifts in over the Alzo-plateau.

After walking a while autumn colors emerges from the mist and I can see the valley beneath me. I can see in up in the direction of Bergeries de Grotelle where the Restonica-valley goes, from there the valley goes further up towards Lac de Capitellu and Lac du Melo. GR20 lies above those twin lakes. Through the Restonica there is a road and I follow it down to Corte. I missed where the waymarks left the road, no sign marking where, so the rest of the walk is made on the asphalt. The waymarks disappeared quietly without a sound.

View up in the direction of the GR20. Inside the clouds at the end of the Restonica-valley lie Lac de Capitellu and Lac du Melo, deeper into the fog the GR20 goes between Manganu and Petra Piana.

Back in Corte after 'a boucle des deux vallees', which was a nice hike through the two beautiful valleys, I'm met with the news that the bad spell of weather will be extended further. The bathroom floor becomes the target of most of my fury when I spread the soaking wet tent all over it for drying. I decide to go back to Haut Asco the next day (tuesday 04.09) anyway. It's been nice to walk in the morning here so far, the bad weather has come in the afternoon.

The Restonica valley emerges from the clouds.

By Ponte-Leccia I meet up again with Mike and Zoe, it looks like we're having the same line of thoughts. The navette that goes up to Haut Asco doesn't leave until later in the day, so we get to explore the little place. They've got a disco bar here, which we inevitable ends up at. Where the disco are I can't actually tell. The sky is literally opening itself, rain is pouring down by the buckets.

Back to Corte after having walked down the Restonica valley.

It's grey and dull weather back at the old ski station, but it feels kind of good to be back. I've been five days away from the GR20 and I'm anxious to get going again. We'll see what the next day brings.

Corte. The old castle lies on the top of a rock and guards the old capital of Corsica.

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