Camino de Santiago 2023: Camino Ingles

Camino Inglés
Ferrol - Santiago de Compostela, 22. october - 25. october 2023 (4 days), distance: 121.5km (1199.9km).

Camino Inglés is the least interesting of all the routes to Santiago de Compostela. At least that is the word. Not from everybody, though, but there are some voices in the air. I have done it two times previously. With the last time doing it in reverse, going from Santiago de Compostela to A Coruña. The first time, I walked together with my cousin. I found that I would like to walk it on my own, and see if what I remember from it would collate with those whispers in the air.

The port town of Ferrol, starting point of the English Way.

And being a short Camino, I opted to do this again instead of the Camino de Finisterre.

Muiño das Aceas.

You can start the Camino Inglés from either Ferrol or A Coruña, but starting from the latter will not make you eligible for the Compostela. That matters little to me, my cupboard back home has enough of this piece of paper already. Normally, I would like to spend one evening at the place I am starting from, but time makes me decide otherwise. From Santiago I take a bus to Ferrol and start straight away, only having to make my way to the starting point at the port first. Which makes it a late start, at almost twelve o’clock.

Nature reserve after the Neda albergue.

The part of the English Camino that I find the most interesting is from its start at Ferrol until Betanzos, normally the two first days. After that there are some nice sections and places in between, but it fails to interest me that much.

Looking across to Pontedeume.

Out of Ferrol, I am somehow excited by the late start, seeing it as a kind of a little adventure in terms of reaching my destination not too late. As before, the alternative past the old Muiño das Aceas is advisable, even with less time available. And do not follow the ordinary waymarks after crossing over the Ria de Ferrol at Xuvia, instead do the old route that goes past the Neda albergue. This route is much more scenic than the route just following the road, going through a small reserve next to the estuary before it will join the new official route before Neda.

Ponte de Pedra, Pontedeume.

With dramatic clouds on the sky, I arrive at the Ponte de Pedra at the entrance of Pontedeume, with just enough time to visit the museum and tower of Torreón dos Andrade. Given the late start, I had wondered about not going as far as to Pontedeume, but stop at place before, but being back I was happy with my decision. Pontedeume is a small, but charming town boasting some nice narrow streets with small plazas between them. And a vending machine where one can buy fishing equipment and bait. I eat a delicious dinner at Taberna Zas.

San Miguel de Breamo.

Normally, I would find the distance between Pontedeume and Betanzos too short, but as with the former, the latter is one of the highlights of this Camino. One way to extend the day is to visit the small chapel of San Miguel de Breamo, situated in a very serene location. Views of Pontedeume, with the bridge and estuary and surrounding landscape can be seen on the walk up to it, and there is an easy to find route that can get you back to the Camino without having to backtrack.

The Camino Inglés going underneath a grape arbor.

Returning to the Camino, there are almost no clouds in the sky and a heating sun. After a descent through woods, it has all changed and just before I get to Ponte Baxoi, I barely escape a sudden deluge at a pilgrim café appearing just at the right time. This would be the norm for the rest of the day, walking in nice weather with brief deluges hitting at uneven times.

The bay windows of Betanzos.

Apart from the the walk to up to the Iglesia de San Miguel de Breamo, the short section after Miño is the most notable on the way to Betanzos. The huge trunk of the tree inside the park near the Antiga Fábrica de Curtidos does still stand there, but the park itself is now more overgrown. Choose the wooden boardwalk going around the small park and then visit the Praia da Alameda beach. At A Ponte do Porco with its pig statue, the route before crossed the river on the bridge and went up the hill just across, but now the route has been changed. By my remembrance it is for the better.

Betanzos in the evening.

Betanzos is to me the highlight of the Camino Inglés. Just spend the time walking through the charming streets are recommended, but there are nice plazas, churches, old buildings, and nice cafés to visit. One of the features of the town that fascinates me is the bay windows of the apartments lined up above one of the narrow streets. It also features a vending machine containing sex toys, which I found amusing given its fishing counterpart in Pontedeume.

Rainbow.

After Betanzos, it is normal to stay at the albergue at Hospital de Bruma, once a medieval hospitales. On the way there it becomes apparent that the route has again changed since I walked it back in 2016, I walk for a long time expecting to see the signs of Casa Julia appearing, but it never materialises. I do not remember if I enjoyed the old route that much, but I cannot say the new route is much interesting either.

Path on the old route of the Camino Inglés.

I stop for a very late lunch at the bar at Hospital de Bruma before walking alone the rest of the way to A Rúa, enjoying all the amusing sculptures and paraphernalia at O Castro on the way. A Rúa is not big, consisting of not much of a couple of houses, but it does has a church and two bars (one that appears to be the morning bar and the other being the evening bar). No albergues, but a very wonderful Casa Rural (Dona María).

Cabeza de Lobo, the dinosaur is really moving around.

On the last of the few days the Camino Inglés takes, I understand more of the resentment that I have heard about the route. When I walked it back in 2016, I remember a long stretch of walking in a straight line through a forest, not so interesting at all, but far better than the new route. For those straight five kilometres through the forest are far more preferable than the same distance walking next to a noisy highway. The heavy rain does nothing to improve my mood either. The enchanted woods are almost the only boon for the eye between Sigüero and Santiago de Compostela, with the exception of arriving at the old town.

One of the worst sections of any Camino de Santiago, walking next to the noisy highway before Sigüeiro, the lousy weather does not make it any better.

No views of the cathedral when I walk into Santiago, the clouds are lying low in the heavy rain. Although the clouds are not lifting, my mood is significantly lifting when I once again walk through the old and beautiful buildings. And the weather gods are smiling at me when I arrive at the Praza do Obradoiro. No sun, but the rain is gracefully taking a break while I am at the square. People are looking amused at me when I sit down, being the only one doing so.

Bridge in Área Recreativa De Carboeiro in Sigüeiro.

I find the changes being done to the Camino Inglés are making it a lot less interesting than it was when I first did it, and even then, it was not that much interesting in total. Despite that, I am actually happy to have done it, but does not expect to return.

Bosque Encantado.

My time in Spain (and Portugal) has come to an end, my combination of the different Camino de Santiago routes has come to an end. It has been a thrill, 43 days, 8 different Caminos and about 1200 kilometres walked.

Wet on the Praza Obraidoro, had to sit down anyway.

If there is one thing that I want to be the lesson of these series of articles, is to choose adventure. Follow your impulses, make your own way. I think the example of Petra is the best one, she chose to change her route on impulse on the way. There were obstacles on the way, but that is part of the adventure, and she overcame those. Do not see the pilgrim routes to Santiago de Compostela as a fixed way depending on the way you chose, combine them. With the additions of new routes appearing the routes appear more and more like a grid than separate one-directional ways.

Panorama, Catedral de Santiago de Compostela.

Buen Camino!

San Martin Pinario in the evening rain.

Camino de Santiago 2023: Camino Portugues Central

Camino Portugués Central
Porto - Santiago de Compostela, 14. october - 21. october 2023 (8 days), distance: 262.5km (1078.4km).

In 2018 I walked the Camino Portugués all the way from Lisbon, then deciding to do the coastal route (Portugués de la Costa) from Porto and the spiritual variant after Pontevedra. Curious about its inland counterpart, I decided to go that way after I finished my combination of several Camino de Santiago routes.

Porto, a wonderful starting point for a Camino de Santiago, making it hard to actually start walking.

The bus ride from Santiago de Compostela carried all the promises of the weather that was to come, with dark clouds racing in competition with the bus on both sides. Starting from Porto is a little paradox in its own. As the city is wonderful and worth spending a couple of nights in, but on the other hand the urge to start walking is a big one.

Ponte Dom Zaeiro.

In São Pedro de Rates.

In the afternoon and evening, Porto is hit by both sunlight and heavy rain. After having looked at the cathedral in the evening, there is a heavy deluge and I seek shelter underneath a minor outcrop on the way down through the narrow streets. The rain is horizontal due to the wind and the cobblestones soon turned into a river of water. A lady living in one of the apartments is loudly cursing the weather as she tries to get in without getting all of the rain into her entryway at the same time.

View from Santuário de Nossa Senhora da Franqueira.

Castro do Monte da Franqueira.

Much has already been written about the walk out of Porto, and even more has been written about the walk out of Lisbon, but of the two I have to say that I prefer the latter walk. That is, if you do not choose to take the Senda Litoral to Vila do Conde instead, I would recommend doing that even if you want to do the central route. From Vila do Conde you can go back to the central route by an alternative route.

Igreja do Senhor da Cruz in Barcelos.

It is a little bit ironic that I had the worst weather on the Camino Primitivo on its best stage, but have the best weather on the Camino Portugués on its worst stage. Given the wonderful weather, and the upcoming inclement weather, I walk further than intended. To São Miguel de Arcos providing me with a nice view of the two old bridges one crosses over on the way, Ponte de Zameiro and Ponte de São Miguel dos Arcos.

Ponte das Tabuas.

Santuário de Nossa Senhora da Aparecida.

On the second day, the sky is a monotonous grey with rain on and off, as promised. São Pedro de Rates is all quiet, but underneath this sky it contains a serene mood that catches my eye. I might have walked here yesterday, if it had not been for my wish to walk to Barcelos on this day, which would have left me with an all too short day. The highlight of the walk is the alternative route after Pedra Furada going up to the Santuário de Nossa Senhora da Franqueira. It is a shame that this is not the official route. Even in this weather, the views from the small chapel at the top is great, with even the sea visible. If going this way, do not miss out on the old remains of the Castro do Monte da Franqueira on the way down again too.

Ponte de Lima.

Ponte Nosse Senhora da Guia, Ponte de Lima.

On this Camino, it was mostly the places I was going to visit that I had the most expectations of. Such as Barcelos, Ponte de Lima, Valença do Minho and Tui if I exclude the places I had seen before. I arrive in Barcelos just in time to visit the old castle and archeological museum before they close. The round church of Templo do Senhor Bom Jesus da Cruz is also definitely worth a visit, given the rainy day the façade is reflected in the water on the square outside.

View through the rain from just below Alto Portela Grande de Labruja.

Fortaleza de Valença do Minho.

Ponte de Lima, however, sails up as my favourite town on the Portuguese Way, Pontevedra set aside. Walking into the town underneath the alley of chestnut trees after another mostly rainy day is just marvellous. As in Barcelos, I spend some time before locating my accommodation. Statues of Roman soldiers reflected in water pools next to the river, the old Roman bridge, and the otherwise beautiful old town. In the evening, when darkness has fallen, it is wonderful walking around the town with the lights on the bridge being lit.

View of Tui from Valença do Minho.

Catedral de Santa Maria de Tui.

The highest point on the central route is the Alto da Portela Grande de Labruja at about 400m. On the way up, I walk together with a Portuguese girl, and we feel the same way, if we would get to the top or over before it starts raining again, we would be happy. It hits us just before the top. Climbing up to a small crest off the route provides some dramatic views of the landscape, before being hit by a bucket full of rain when emerging out of the trees. The rest of the walk to Valença do Minho is a long and wet walk, with the café at Rubiães a welcoming stop.

A scenic tiny bridge in the woods after Tui.

On the recommended alternative route to O Porriño.

At Valença do Minho, Portugal lies behind you and Spain ahead of you. Given the rain, I opt to spend the evening at the hotel I am staying at, possibly regretting not visiting the old town inside the fortress above. Instead, I go for a walk on the top of the wall and between the old buildings the morning after before crossing over the river Miño into Spain. There was a slight drizzle at the beginning, but as I walked on the top of the ramparts sunlight broke through the clouds and now the cathedral of Tui is a light beacon on the other side. Once in Tui I visit the hallowed halls and roof of the cathedral before navigating the narrow streets out of the town.

In O Porriño.

From Tui the Camino is a serene and wonderful walk through surprisingly pleasant woods most of the way until O Porriño, but be sure to take the alternative route going left in the junction just before Orbenlle. After O Porriño the route is less interesting. Rain engulfs me again on the last kilometres into Redondela, with the red lights from Vigo Airport blinking ominously at the top of the hill behind me. One of the most interesting features of Redondela are the viaducts crossing over the buildings of the town.

Pavilion, Redondela.

If Ponte de Lima was my favourite town on the Portuguese side of this Camino, Pontevedra is its counterpart on the Spanish side. Is Ponte a common denominator here? In that term one must not forget one of the highlights of the Portuguese Way, Ponte Medieval de Pontesampaio, where the best way to see it is not to follow the Camino but go down to the river before. Narrow and scenic streets, iconic old buildings, Pontevedra has it all. In the evening, the weather is fascinatingly alternating between being clear and having heavy deluges prompting one to seek shelter underneath an old arch or in a cosy bar in the old town. Like the last time, I have a wonderful time in this splendid city.

Ponte Sampaio.

Previously having done the spiritual variant after Pontevedra, I now join the majority of the pilgrims, going in line on the central route. It should have been the other way around. There is no Ruta de la Piedra y del Agua on this route, but the nice waterfall at Fervenzas do Barosa is a small substitute. Caldas de Reis is where most pilgrims stop after Pontevedra, I am surprisingly alone afterwards on the way to Padrón.

Convento de San Francisco, Pontevedra.

Igrexa da Virxe Peregrina in Pontevedra.

The last day of the Camino Portugués lies ahead of me at Padrón. I start it by climbing up to the Santiaguiño del Monte in the morning, being rewarded by a wonderful sunrise through the morning mist and a chapel shrouded in mystic by the same mist.

The Camino Portugués Central offer some walking through enchanted woods on the way, here from after Pontevedra.

A short detour of the route leads one to the Fervenzas de Barosa.

Like most of the routes, the last stage is one of the least interesting. I opt for the alternative route at the entrance to Santiago de Compostela, the Camino complementario Conxo Santa Marta. This takes the pilgrims past the Parroquia de la Mercé de Conxo instead of the normal route through the outskirts of the city, joining at the Alameda Park, but there are few waymarks here and I am not altogether sure that I follow the route correctly.

Bosque de Bambu Negro in Caldas de Reis.

I find myself once again at the Praza do Obradoiro, still having that feel of amazement of arriving at the cathedral. When I finished my combination of Caminos about nine days ago, I was together with June, Terje, Margit and Petra, I am now alone. Of my own volition of course, I chose to do a more solitary Camino this time, but the echoes of the near past is still present. On the other hand, being embraced by pilgrims all around you it is difficult to feel alone. That is one of the things about Santiago de Compostela that I like the most. I have another great evening at the centre of hustle and bustle of pilgrim activity.

Sunrise above Padron.

Misty mysterious Santiaguiño del Monte in the morning.

Weather has been far from optimal in terms of giving the Camino a fair trial, I might have missed something that might give the route a better impression than it has. The places instead of the scenery has been what I remember best. Although, some of the sections going through the woods has been wonderful. In the end, despite not giving me the best impressions, and weather not being preferably, I still had a good time.

Another nice woodland section on the last stage of the Camino Portugués Central.

So, with a tally of having been on seven different Caminos (del Norte, Lebaniego, Vadiniense, Frances, San Salvador, Primitivo, Portugués) I should be satified, right? No, there is still a few days left in me (even more if not my work ethics would take hold of me). Back home, there has been some discussions in terms of recommending the Camino Inglés or not, I feel it is time to do a recap.

Catedral de Santiago de Compostela.

Camino de Santiago 2023: Camino Primitivo

Camino Primitivo
Oviedo - Santiago de Compostela, 29. september - 11. october 2023 (13 days), distance: 347.8km (811.9km).

In front of the cathedral, I meet June from Taiwan. She and I met on the Camino Portuguese in 2018 and we have kept the friendship afterwards. I have for a long time thought of doing the Camino Primitivo again and as she wanted to do it as her next Camino, we had planned to team up. It provided some logistical puzzles for me in terms of arriving at Oviedo in time, though.

Oviedo, Catedral San Salvador, the starting point of my favourite Camino de Santiago, the Camino Primitivo.

The Camino Primitivo is not the most primitive, or the most basic and unsophisticated of the many routes to Santiago de Compostela. The name denotes that it is officially being declared as the first of the many pilgrim routes to Santiago de Compostela. It is on the other hand less developed in terms of infrastructure like the more popular Camino Francés. Expect fewer accommodations and places where you can get food and drinks along the way.

On the first stage of the Camino Primitivo.

Grado, the city hall in the evening.

We have ample time to explore the wonderful old town of Oviedo, including a visit to the cathedral with its cloister garden. In evening we go out for a dinner where most of the bottle of cider that we bought are being shared with the pavement (goes with the show).

Wonderful view over Grado when leaving the town as the low clouds are slowly lifting.

Peregrinos in the mist, on the way up towards El Fresno.

On my first Camino Primitivo, the weather out of Oviedo was a mix of light drizzle combined with clouds lying low over the surrounding hills. It was wonderfully atmospheric, but did not provide much of a view. Now it is hot, and the sky is mostly clear of clouds. Places that were obscured by clouds back then are now visible.

The often photographed house before Santa Eulalia de Dóriga (when I passed it back in 2015 it had a tree perched on top of it).

Old bridge over the Río Nonaya.

It is interesting walking through your own memories, and seeing which places that still resides in your memory and which places that does not. This feeling would follow me throughout the whole Camino Primitivo. Grado was a town that I did not found very interesting when I passed through it before, but as we are spending our first night here, I find that it appeals a lot more to me now. In the evening, we meet up with Terje and Margit for dinner.

In Salas, the Torre de Valdés Salas.

Weather on the Camino Primitivo can be slightly more inclement than on the routes that goes more inland in Spain, not that one can entirely escape the wet element on them either. The rain in Spain stays mostly in the plain is however more of a misnomer I feel. Those having spent a considerable time in Galicia or have done the Camino del Norte would probably nod in recognition. June and I are on the other hand extremely lucky with the weather. Throughout the whole Camino, we only experience one rainy day. Unfortunately, that day was the one we hiked the Hospitales route, more on that later.

Cascada de Nonaya, a worthy detour after leaving Salas.

On this occasion, walking out of Grado is a problem for those interested in photography, one could spend too much time making use of the perfect conditions for those who like to play with light. Clouds are lying low, but the sun is illuminating the landscape below them. Climbing up, the surrounding scenery and other pilgrims becomes mysterious figures in the fog. When I am at the top, the clouds are on a retreat through the bottom of the valleys and a blue sky carry promises of another hot day.

A tunnel of vegetation on the way towards Tineo.

Tineo, a charming small town on the Camino Primitivo.

I would recommend that one does not stay at the same places as before if you were to do a Camino a second time (or more). On this pilgrimage, we stay at places I did not stay at back then, although with a few exceptions. It makes the walk different from before.

Leaving Tineo on a wonderful path ascending through woods with nice views of the town and its surroundings.

Alto de Guardia, here the pilgrims walk with the highlight of the Camino Primitivo approaching in the horizon.

Bodenaya has always resided as one of my favourite albergues that I have stayed at, if not the best. This time we stop in Salas, another town that I just briefly spent some time in last time, the arch of the Torre de Valdés Salas still the most prominent part of it. Tineo is also a good memory, with the colourful buildings surrounding the Plaza del Ayuntamiento.

In the ruins of Santa Maria de Obona.

On the Hospitales route, approaching the ancient Hospital de Paradiella.

It is after Tineo that the Camino Primitivo really begins to shine, if you look away from the few kilometres of walking on the road before Campiello. Slowly ascending, the path provides a striking display of Tineo, but it is the mountains behind that catches the eyes, a blending combination of green and blue. Even more striking is the view of the Cordillera Cantabria later, where I try to pick out the mountains the Camino crosses over on its famous Hospitales route. Do not forget to take the detour down to the Monasterio de Santa Maria de Obona.

Panorama of the magnificent Hospitales route of the Camino Primitivo, with the Hospital de Fanfaron below.

The Hospitales route is by all means the icing on the cake of the Camino Primitivo. It is strange then that most guides recommend taking the Pola de Allande option. Understandably, the Pola de Allande route is the safer option, providing both accommodations and places to eat and drink, but avoiding the most spectacular stage of the Camino is a pity. Be prepared as there are no places to get food or drinks until Berducedo, about 27km after Borres.

Scenery on the Hospitales route.

And on the next day everything changed, approaching the Hospital de Paradiella in mist.

And pay attention to the weather. Which is what I did. The forecast was for rain the day June and I was to cross over, but an early arrival at Borres the day before gave me enough time to walk up to the last of the three old pilgrim refuges of La Paradiella, Fanfaron and Valparaiso (called hospitales, hence the name of the route). The weather was perfect, although there was a distinct wind in the air. Among grazing cows, horses and sheep, the path takes on an undulating course up into the mountains all dressed up in green. It is a beautiful walk. Climbing up to the summit of Cima Pico provides you with a 360 degrees view. Tired, I arrive back at Borres at dusk, catching up with June for dinner, who unfortunately could not join me due to her ailing feet.

Ghostly apparitions of trees as mist covers the Camino Primitivo on the Hospitales route after Puerto de la Marta.

In the low visibility, the Hospitales route is an altogether different experience than before. Given that I got to see most of this stage in good weather yesterday, I am happy to experience the other side of it. More ghostly, more mysterious, and more atmospheric in its appearance, but it is also raining, and the wind makes us wrap our jackets tighter around us. Sparse trees drifts in and out of the fog, as well as the occasional livestock, with no views to the outside world. Few other pilgrims are around, we briefly meet our friend from Aruba. Like the trees, she emerges like a ghostly figurine out of the clouds, before gradually disappearing behind us afterwards. For lunch, we seek shelter inside a stone farmhouse next to the ruins of the Fanfaron hospital, sharing the primitive shelter with a couple from Belgium having walked all the way from their homes.

Panorama, Mirador de Montefurado.

Below the Puerto del Palo, views are opening up, and then the old hamlet of Montefurado are passed by. Arriving at Berducedo, we spend the night at an albergue where the dormitory carries all the smell of musky pilgrims drying up after having walked all day in rain.

Descending below the clouds, approaching the old hamlet of Montefurado.

Embalse de Salime.

The walk to Grandas de Salime is all about the Embalse de Salime, with the views of its blue water below, its lovely and tiny chapel of Santa Marina de Buspol, all the hydroelectric relics at the dam and the abandoned buildings surrounding it. In the morning after, we are walking engulfed by low clouds once more, being mesmerized by the appearance of a fog bow and the cows looking surprised of the low clouds. Beautiful is the word, when sunrays are filtered through the last wisps of mist walking through the woods.

At the Presa Grandas de Salime, the huge dam of the Embalse de Salime. On the approach to the dam, make sure to visit the Mirador de Boca de la Ballena, but this is a view of a statue of a saint as seen from the dam.

In Grandas de Salime, the convent in the centre.

Flat is not the word of the Camino Primitivo, not before the Hospitales route and not after. From Grandas de Salime it goes up over El Acebo crossing into Galicia on its way, then the climb up to another old pilgrim hospital awaits, Hospital de Montouto founded in 1360. This time, I choose the other alternative from A Fonsagrada. Highlight of that route is the ruins of the tower of Castelo da Pobra de Burón in O Chao and the views opening up when you arrive above the hospital de Montouto (as opposed to coming up from below). We spend the night in O Cádavo Baleira, a less interesting town where we again meet Terje and Margit.

Cow in the mist, another misty morning when leaving Grandas de Salime.

Then, when the clouds and mist was ascending, the filtered sunrays created a magic moment on the approach to Castro.

While I will walk to Lugo, June has decided to travel to the city by bus hoping to get some medical advice regarding her feet. Unfortunately, it is a Sunday, so the only option is the hospital.

A Fonsagrada in the evening, the Fonte Sagrada with the church.

Leaving A Fonsagrada with a ocean of clouds in the valley below.

Lugo is famous for its intact Roman walls surrounding the old town, standing up to 15 metres on its 2 kilometres continuous circuit. There are more to the city than its walls, but despite all there is to see, I personally do not found Lugo to be of much interest. Like the last time. We start the day leaving the city by circumventing the whole old town and then embark on the long walk out of Lugo on mostly hard surface underneath an unrelenting sun.

A Chao, on the alternative route starting just before A Fonsagrada, with the Fortaleza de Burón at the top.

Hospital de Montouto, another wonderful spot on the Primitivo.

Because there is no getting around that after Lugo the Camino Primitivo takes on a little bit of a different perspective, although one can argue that it is before and not after. With the exception of the climb over the O Hospital das Seixas the route now is more gentle, but not without its inclines. The hills above As Seixas is the last boon for the eyes before me and the other pilgrims on the Primitivo will merge with the queue on the Camino Frances. I make a detour to the top of the hill, while June continues, meeting up later at a stream where we can give our feet a refreshing bath.

Camino bliss.

On the old city walls of Lugo, with the spires of the cathedral. If there is just one thing that you want to do when visiting Lugo, it is going on a walk on the city walls.

Melide is where the steady line of pilgrims from the Camino Frances and the more scattered line from Camino Primitivo joins together, both in route and in anticipation of its culinary delight, pulpo (octopus). Much have been said about the commercialization (and constipation) of the Camino de Santiago once pilgrims reach the town of Sarria and the 100km mark, but the key point is to just accept it for what it is. If the crowds on this section of the Camino deters one from having a good experience, one can always take public transportation to Santiago de Compostela and skip it.

The old Puente Romano de Ferreira.

Camino Frances at its end is just as I envisioned it and remembered it, having gone this section now twice, although when I did it the first time back in 2011 it was far less crowded as in these times. It is pleasant walking, but to me not the most interesting. The most notable thing due to the amount of pilgrims walking is how the available services attune to it. We find that out when we are leaving Arzua late after a lengthy lunch break, at a point where most of the other pilgrims are satisfied having arrived. Too early for me, though, but the bars are following the hours of the pilgrims and are closed.

A lovely walk out of Ferreira in the morning.

Another highlight in my view on the Camino Primitivo, the walk over the hills towards Hospital after as Seixas.

Dark clouds come drifting in over Santiago de Compostela and the spires of its cathedral when we stand at Monte Gozo, the weather has been wonderful on our journey, but the forecast for the upcoming days is not positive. Just before we get to the old town of Santiago, we meet again the couple from Belgium, having just the walk out to Finisterre to finish their long walk from their home. At Praza de Cervantes we walk past Terje and Margit having a drink, and they accompany us the final steps to the Praza do Obradoiro and the façade of the cathedral.

Maybe the most famous stepping stone bridge on the Camino Francés.

Arzúa and an estrella on the Camino Francés.

Is it starting to become a habit? When you arrive at a place and does not feel like you have been away from it.

Pilgrims in one of the hollow ways on the Camino.

I am proud of June, finishing the Camino Primitivo with her hurting feet, later confirmed to be muscle damage. For me, it has also been a learning exercise. I am used to do my long-distance walks alone, walking at my own pace and be able to adhere to do whatever my curiosity sees fit. Now I had to learn to be patient. I hope I passed the test.

And after 29 days of walking, 812km and six different routes, the Catedral de Santiago de Compostela.

We spend two nights in Santiago. The first evening we go out celebrating with Terje and Margit. On the second day, Petra arrives and finishes her long and winding road. I was happy to meet her again and, in the evening, we go out celebrating (again).

What to do in Santiago de Compostela? There is a lot to see in the city, but what I like the most is just to be there. Not necessarily have a plan, just walk around (does that sound familiar?) and see the places where my feet take me. The old town carries its own atmosphere.

Evening light, Santiago de Compostela.

Absolutely thrilled to have done the Camino Primitivo again and satisfied that it gave me the same wonderful experience that I got when I did it the first time. It is always great to be back in Santiago de Compostela, but my days on the Camino de Santiago (or maybe my Combinado de Santiago) is not over yet. While June will travel to Malaga to have some rest days before continuing her journey in Europe, I will embark on the bus to Porto, where the 7th Camino awaits.