10th of May to 13th of May 2024.
Distance: 81.5km. 4 days.
That I should begin a pilgrimage or more concrete a Camino de Santiago from a place more commonly known for its sunbathing tourists that spends the afternoon and evening drinking to cheesy disco tunes at the many strand bars, was something I never imagined that I would do. Places like this are typically a deterrent to me, but here I am, walking on the beach at the Playa del Inglés on Gran Canaria. ‘Bailando! Bailando!’
Dunas de Maspalomas, passed by on the way to Faro de Maspalamos.
Together with Gry Folge (Lightfoot), I am walking the Camino de Gran Canaria. This is the only one of the Camino de Santiago routes that is located outside of mainland Europe, as well as the only one not ending at or starting from the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela. Starting from Faro de Maspalomas, the route crosses over the mountainous heartland of the island ending at the Church of Santiago de Las Caballeros in Gáldar. The normal route is 67km long, but there is an alternative route going through Tejeda that makes the route about 76km long. It is normal to use 3 to 4 days on the route.
Faro de Maspalomas, the starting point of the Camino de Gran Canaria.
Canal de Maspalomas.
What is then the connection with Santiago de Compostela and St. James? According to the writings, the first mass honouring the apostle occurred back in 1481. Then 484 years later, in 1965, the Camino de Gran Canaria became recognized as a part of the network of Camino de Santiago routes. Despite this recognition, walking the route does not make one eligible for the Compostela, for that you have to end your walk at the tomb of St. James. There is however a specific certificate for this route that you could get in the church in Gáldar.
Acequia de los acueductos, an aquaduct is following our steps next to us through the Barranco de Fataga.
To the south it is wet, that is where the sea is. To the north it is dry, that is where the mountains are. You will find water along the way, but make sure you have enough of it when you start walking, the heat is something you have to consider if you choose to walk the Camino de Gran Canaria. We have chosen to walk just before the time of the year when the worst of the heat starts to set in. This is an excellent route to walk if you want to walk a Camino in the winter.
Walking into the interior of Gran Canaria through the Barranco de Fataga.
It takes about four kilometres to get out of Maspalomas, the walk itself is not that bad (although some deem it quite ordinary). In fact, at the start you will get a nice view of the Canal de Maspalomas, later it becomes interesting how little water that eventually runs through it.
The landscape is barren and arid, but still home to a plethora of vegetation, with cactuses in abundance.
Once out of Maspalomas, with the sounds of the crowd of tourists receding, everything changes. A mountain landscape is taking over the scenery, all dry, arid and barren, very much to our liking. The Camino heads inlands with mountains and ridges rising up on both sides of us. Prickly Pears forms fascinating shapes next to us. An old looking aqueduct meanders its way in the same direction as us.
Into the mountains, on the way towards Arteara.
A smiling pilgrim, on the way towards Artera after the Necrópolis de Arteara.
High above us goes one of the famous winding roads of Gran Canaria, later on the route we will look down upon the very same road. The route is keeping low at the beginning, with only a slow but steady incline, but deeper into the canyon the route changes gear and the inclines becomes steeper. We are fascinated by the clusters of palms rising up from the rivers of grass in the bottom of the valley.
Evening at Hotel Masai Mara Resort.
On the first night we stay at the Hotel Masai Mara Resort, just outside of the small village of Arteara. It is a nice place, serene, and with a swimming pool that becomes beautifully lit up in the evening, although we have to bring what we need for food and drink with us (breakfast can be provided upon request). As the sun sets, the ridge to the east turns almost as red as the wine in our glasses. It is all quiet, with only the cicadas letting us know that there is life around us.
Gran Canaria flowers.
In Fataga.
On the second day we walk to San Bartolomé de Tirajana, a short day that does not amount to more than about 11km. Although not much time might be needed to walk the short but quite beautiful distance, a lot of time can be wasted when exploring the charming little village of Fataga. Consisting of narrow streets between charming white houses with a surplus of artisan shops, one can become quite immersed into the various handmade trinkets available for sale. At a café we are having lunch while Lucky Luke draws faster than his own shadow below us.
View from above Fataga.
San Bartolomé de Tirajana itself is a pleasant town that is located underneath the shadow of the highest peak on the island, Pico de las Nieves at 1949m. A visit to the Iglesia San Bartolomé is worth a visit, with the Plaza de Santiago outside. There are also places that provides great views of the valley below. Here we are staying at another pleasant accommodation on the route, Rural Suites Santiago de Tunte, which has good facilities for cooking your own food, if you do not want to go out and eat.
On the way to San Bartolomé de Tirajana.
The mountains in the centre of Gran Canaria are rising up like a wall to the north of San Bartolomé de Tirajana, which is the direction where the Camino de Gran Canaria is heading, but it does not take a straight path. Instead, it takes the pilgrims on a wonderful ascending path through trees up towards Cruz Grande, where the colours become a contrast of red, green, and blue.
San Bartolomé de Tirajana.
From the prominent views on both sides of the Cruz Grande, the Camino continues on the route that is called the Ruta de La Plata. Associations to the Via de La Plata on the mainland of Spain comes to mind, but they are not related. This is yet another wonderful section of the trail, winding its way upwards with great views to the higher plateau of the island. For those that does not feel comfortable on exposed paths or are suffering from vertigo, know that on its steepest parts the path is still wide and that one does not need to walk close to the edge.
Iglesia de San Bartolomé.
At the top, in between the pine trees, one can take a detour to the summit of Pico de las Nieves if standing at the highest point of Gran Canaria is tempting. Instead, we opt for leaving the route to take a detour to another prominent and far more interesting peak, Roque Nublo, but only after paying a visit to peer through the eye of Ventana del Nublo. This is a natural rock formation that forms an arch making it look like an eye where one can look through to gaze upon the natural beauty of the island with Teide rising majestically behind.
Rural Suites Santiago de Tunte.
While the view from Roque Nublo at 1813m is formidable, it is most likely its two prominent cliffs at the top that is the eyecatcher, which can be spotted from far away. While having walked mostly alone so far, this can easily be called crowed. There is a snack car at the parking space from where the path goes up to the cliffs.
Walking up towards Cruz Grande.
Cruz de Tejeda is our destination for the third day, the way there goes on a spectacular path where the deep valleys of Gran Canaria is below us, Roque Nublo standing tall on the other side of the valley and as always, the watchful eyes of Teide are following our steps from across the sea. The wind has picked up as we follow the ridge towards Hotel Rural El Refugio where we will spend the night.
The winding path of the Ruta de La Plata.
It is advised to check out the opening hours for when food is served here, we arrive too late for dinner at the restaurant, but are able to buy some food to bring with us from the adjacent bar. Nearby some market stalls can provide you with both souvenirs, drinks, and snacks. Our dinner is interrupted as we have to run out to view the beautiful sunset.
View down towards Tunte.
The final day dawns. A day that should give us another insight into Gran Canaria, this time the climate. While the southern part of the island is dry, sunny, and barren, its northern side sees far more rain. Hence the vegetation is lusher on this side. As to prove the point, we get a change of weather on the walk down towards Galdár, as clouds and some gentle rain showers drifts in from the ocean on the last section of the walk.
Ventana del Nublo.
From Cruz de Tejeda the Camino de Gran Canaria climbs upwards again with views again to the left of us. This initial climb will be most of the ascent on the final day of the Camino, from the top covered by trees, the trail begins its long and sometimes steep descent towards the sea, often through woods and forests. On the walk down, clouds are lying low over the sea and the lower hills.
Wonderful scenery with views of Roque Nublo and Teide.
We emerge out of the woods onto a landscape dominated by undulating and open hills, a wonderful change of scenery compared to what we have seen otherwise on the trail, passing by the Cruz del Galeote on the way.
The characteristic cliffs of Roque Nublo.
The Bar Lomo El Palo provides a nice place, and at the same time the first place after Cruz de Tejeda, to stop for a coffee and some easy food. This is also the place where you soon afterwards will encounter the first of the few stone milestones that you would have been familiar with if you have walked the Camino Francés or other routes for instance.
The landscape of Gran Canaria, scenic deep valleys beneath wonderful rock and cliff formations. All watched over by Teide from its neighbouring island of Tenerife.
With the milestone in mind, it is time to talk about finding your way on the Camino de Gran Canaria. Although the route being a part of the Camino de Santiago network, you cannot solely rely on the well-known yellow arrows and scallops pointing the way. They are there for sure. You can find them on trees, buildings, and rocks as usual, but not as frequent as on the mainland routes. It requires a little bit of awareness as the route follows local hiking trails with yellow waymarks and signposts pointing you in the direction of the next place on the route. Despite that, the route is not difficult to follow.
Sunset from Cruz de Tejeda.
As already mentioned, on the way down rain clouds drifts in from the sea, but all it does is giving more atmosphere to the walk. While most of the walk has been on paths and gravel tracks, the last day sees us walking a lot more on paved roads. Before the Camino embarks on its final stretch to Galdár it has one more pleasant surprise in store for us. From Hoya Pineda, the route descends on a winding path with steep cliffs rising up to the right of us, ending at the village of Anzo.
The path from Cruz de Tejeda, Roque Nublo still in view in the distance.
Clouds are lying low over the sea on the last day of the Camino de Gran Canaria.
From Anzo, the route is all flat passing past acres and fields, which does not look very well kept, as well as the small suburbs of Galdár. Unfortunately, this part of the route is less inviting. When we finally reaches the small and charming streets at the centre of the town our moods improves. Decorating the streets are several installations of various sizes, with the biggest ones occupying most of the space in the middle of the streets. In the evening the installations are illuminated.
Monte Pavon, a lovely walk on undulating hills.
At the end of our Camino lies Iglesia Matriz de Santiago de Los Caballeros. Dedicated to St. James, the current church was built between 1778 and 1826 in neoclassical style. At the front of its gates is the Plaza de Santiago surrounded by a small park. A nice place to end this short but wonderful Camino.
Descending into the rain, on the final stretch down towards Galdár.
In Galdár, we stay at the nice Hotel Agaldar, located next door to the church. Readers may have noticed that I have not mentioned staying at any typical pilgrim accommodations like the albergues in Spain. It is important to be aware of that you will not find any such accommodation on the Camino de Gran Canaria. There are cheaper places to stay at than a typical hotel, but one must take into account that you have to pay more for the places to sleep than on the Camino Francés for instance.
The path down toward Anzo and Galdár from Hoya Pineda.
To sum it up, the Camino de Gran Canaria is not the longest of trails or pilgrim routes, but its three to four days across the island are providing a great worth of scenery. And a potent reminder that Gran Canaria is a lot more than crowded beaches with noisy strand bars. It is a wonderful walk where you will appreciate its wonderful landscape, charming villages and towns, and food.
Iglesia Matriz de Santiago de Los Caballeros, Galdár.
A great resource to plan your Camino de Gran Canaria is https://stingynomads.com/camino-de-santiago-gran-canaria/.
Galdár.
Buen Camino!
