Camino Inglés & Camino Muxia

Camino Ingles is the route that the pilgrims coming from Great Britain and the northern countries in Europe, like Norway, normally would use when they were going to Santiago de Compostela on a pilgrimage. They then come across the sea to either A Coruna or Ferrol and for them the hardest and toughest part of the journey would likely be over when they made landfall in mentionied cities to continue their walk on foot. The English Way is also given its name since it was the route that the English soldiers used when the ran from Napoleon's forces. From A Coruna there are 73km to Santiago, which makes the pilgrims walking from here not qualified for the Compostela. The normal point to start from is therefore Ferrol, where there are 119km to the Praza do Obradoiro.

Camino Muxia is a variant of Camino Finisterre, where you instead of walking to Finisterre choose to go to Muxia. As it is for Camino Finistere you walk on this trail with the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela at your back. The routes separates at Hospital. The trail is about 84km long and ends at the church of Santuario de la Virgen de La Barca which is situated with the ocean at its front doors.

In the Summer of 2016, I travelled to Spain to walk the Camino Inglés and Camino Muxia, this is my story from the Camino.

Dag 1 (29.06):Ferrol - Pontedeume

Dag 2 (30.06):Pontedeume - Betanzos

Dag 3 (01.07):Betanzos - Hospital de Bruma

Dag 4 (02.07):Hospital de Bruma - Santiago de Compostela

Dag 5 (03.07):Santiago de Compostela - Vilaserio

Dag 6 (04.07):Vilaserio - Dumbria

Dag 7 (05.07):Dumbria - Muxia

Camino Ingles & Muxia @ 12:00

Camino Muxia // day 7 // Dumbria - Muxia

Camino Muxia day 7.
Distance: 20.1km (206.7km), time spent: 7:16 (60:56).
Weather: Overcast and gloomy, then nice weather in the afternoon and evening.

Outside the albergue, the wind has blown all night, bringing with it clouds from the ocean, we wake up to a heavy blanket above us and the exit doors closed. So, someone has been here after all after we went to bed last night, no one here now, only the pilgrims who have not left yet. Yesterday we bought a big bag of small croissants and small packets of jam for breakfast, a small imitation of the Spanish breakfast you get at the bars down here. Then we exit through the back door and go out under the grey sky for our last day on the Camino.

Gloomy scenery in the first part of today's walk, here across the fields towards the hills in the horizon, before Senande.

From Dumbria there are about twenty kilometres to Muxia, where we will go from the quite remote inland and out to the maw of the sea. On the way, the Camino changes between going on asphalt roads, forest roads and wide gravel paths. Around us, the landscape changes from forest, with a predominance of eucalyptus trees, to cultivated fields and acres, to rolling hills coloured grey by the weather, and to small villages, farms and hamlets. There is no shortage of the usual landmarks such as churches, crosses, abandoned houses and the fascinating horreos (most of the ones here is built in stone) on the way.

Three usual landmarks on the Camino, a horreo, a cruceiro (cross) and a bell tower.

After six kilometres, we have walked in a silent world and arrived in Senande, seeing no evidence of others along the way. Outside of the few houses we passed by, the dogs were sleepy and unaffected. The ridges in the horizon rest beneath the grey blankets. The melancholy mood is quite suitable for the day, it is our last day on the Way and it feels a little bit sad. The hunger is not completely sated after just a week on the road.

A gigantic horreo outside the monastery of San Martino de Ozon, it needs 22 pair of legs to keep it up.

I often feel that there is an odd discrepancy between the size of the place and the numbers of bars in some villages in Spain, a village may be tiny but still have three bars, as here in Senande. How they manage to get it to go around is something that I often wonder about (that a Camino goes through the village helps of course). We are adding at least some tiny bit of income to the owner of the first bar we come to, Bar A Coxa; he serves the cafe con leche together with a couple of fake eggs. While we are sitting and enjoying our coffee, the first pilgrims that we see since leaving Dumbria is appearing. Among them there are also some who did not stayed in Dumbria and must have gone from Logoso or perhaps all the way from Olveiroa.

Inside San Martino de Ozon, there are no longer monks that are living here; this is the common room to the more alternative micro-society of the place.

After Senande, the Camino is the same as it was before Senande. On the signposts for the various small villages that we come to, there is in addition to the name of the village, also the scallop sign. In the horizon towards the ocean, there is a glimpse beneath the clouds where we can see blue sky, hopefully this means that we might arrive in Muxia in sunny weather.

Camino Muxia buildings and scenery.

Standing outside the old monastery of San Martino de Ozon is the largest horreo I have ever seen down here, it stands on no less than an impressive 22 pair of legs. It is a long time since the monastery has been used for clerical purposes, although those who inhabit it now are also living a life a little bit on the outside of society, as the monks did here at one time. Having looked at the forge, workshop, the back of the monastery and the church next to it, we move on. And arrive at the entrance to the monastery.

We went down to this beach that lies between Merexo and Moraime to eat lunch, the waves and the current was too big to go for a swim.

The monastery is now consisting of a small and alternative micro-society. When we enter through the gate, people are working in the garden. We do not trespass by entering, there is sign outside that welcomes people in and outside it was advertised that you could get a stamp in your credentials, tea, vegetarian food and other things. One of the free spirited people living here greets us and shows us briefly around inside, we accept a cup of tea. Made of mint picked from the garden outside. Two other pilgrims, a Frenchman and an American who also was in Dumbria, comes while we sit and rest in the garden. It is relaxing here, but at the same one feels a bit on the outside.

Muxia and the end of our Camino in sight.

From San Martino de Ozon, we walk through yet another small village, through a pleasant forest and then the sight of the ocean greets us in Merexo. Now that we are close to the sea, we go down and find a sandy beach. From where we can see the promontory that Muxia is at the tip of, but we cannot yet see the town itself. We eat lunch on the beach; we still have many croissants from the breakfast left. While the waves breaks against the sand, we enjoy a cold beer and Kjetil takes a quick nap. There are too much waves and the current in the water looks too strong to tempt us to go for a swim. The French pilgrim shows up and wants to try, but he also appears to give up trying. Back on the road, we meet the two other free spirited pilgrims again, who wonder if they could get down to the beach.

The waves crashing on the rocks out on the tip of Punta del Barca, below Santuario de la Virgen de la Barca, only the ocean left to journey across.

The end is near, Muxia is near, and with it the great ocean as well. Where I thought the Camino follow the promontory around to Muxia, it instead climb up into the hill after Moraime and its stern but nice church. Up on the hill, we pass a small chapel and get the first sight of the houses of Muxia. Down by the sea, the wind is blowing quite fresh, you can choose to either walk along the water's edge or take a country road around. We choose to walk on the boardwalk next to the sea with a view towards Muxia and the ocean behind. It actually blows so hard that sand stings our eyes when get on the road in to the small town, across the road lies small sand dunes. We have arrived at the Way's end, above us it is now a blue sky with some clouds.

Muxia from Monte Corpiño at sunset. Muxia is a more quiet and calm town than Finisterre and I probably like it better here.

Strictly speaking, we are not really finished with our walk until we are out on the headland where the last waymarker-stone stands with Santuario de la Virgen de la Barca and the ocean in the background. Before we go out there, though, we find ourselves a bed in the Bela Muxia albergue and spend some time relaxing. I am very satisfied to get to spend the afternoon and evening here in Muxia, which I wanted to the previous year but could not. Going out to the sea, we walk over Monte Corpiño; from the top, we can see out over Muxia on one side and out over the ocean on the other. Muxia lies much more exposed to the weather than Finisterre, which characterizes the houses facing the sea (I have seen a picture of the Santuario de la Virgen de la Barca with huge waves crashing into the front of the church).

Sunset at Muxia.

A pleasant surprise is that the church is open when we arrive at the tip of the promontory, so that we can see how it looks inside, we even get a stamp in our pilgrim credentials. Down by the ocean, waves crashes against the rocks, we climb out on one of the outermost rocks and get to taste the salt water in the mouth when a big wave crashes close to us. With slightly wet clothes, we sit down by the small lighthouse and enjoy the nice weather and that we have arrived, a simple celebration with cold beer and chips.

The Muxiella, as in Finisterre, you can also get a document acknowledging that you have walked to Muxia.

In the afternoon, we eat bacalao at a local restaurant located at the quay in Muxia after a tip from the hospitaleros at Bela Muxia (there are not many places here that serves bacalao apparently). It tastes very good, but it is also very different from the bacalao I am used from back home, here we only get the fish with potatoes (both well-salted). There are mostly local people at the place. Afterwards, we run up to the top of Monte Corpiño again to see the sunset, we reach it just in time. The ocean is on fire and we can look back on a nice Camino from sea to sea (Ferrol to Muxia).

The various stamps/sellos in my pilgrims credential for the Camino from Santiago de Compostela to Muxia.

<- Dumbria

Camino Muxia // day 6 // Vilaserio - Dumbria

Camino Muxia day 6.
Distance: 30.8km (186.6km), time spent: 9:18 (53:40).
Weather: Sunny, some clouds later in the day.

To follow in your own footsteps is easy; you know where to go and what you will get to see. Luckily, we stop following my footsteps during this day, so I will be back again to what I like, walking with the excitement of not knowing what awaits me around the next corner. When we come to Hospital later today, we will turn right towards Muxia where I before have been led to the left beneath a grey sky without any contrasts at all. There is just one albergue between Hospital and Muxia, so we go there today.

A Camino waymarker-stone at a scenic location between Cornado and Maronas.

Last year, the area after Vilaserio looked desolate and remote, with the weather being the obvious reason, which I knew then as well. Now that the weather is fine, the sky is blue and the sun shines, the impression is something else entirely. Green lush meadows and fields, a culture landscape, and visible farms and small villages. They were there the last time also, but almost made a disappearing act in the desolate weather. It is almost like experiencing two different places, although they are the same.

The road to Vilar do Castro, a worn information board told us that there was an old castle or fortress on the top of the hill behind the village. We tried to get up, but was waved down by some local farmers.

We are off again at eight o'clock in the morning; I had breakfast in the restaurant, while Kjetil chose to wait. Walking on tarmac in the beginning, before the sun enters the stage, later the surface changes to various forest roads towards Santa Mariña. We are puzzled by a coat of arms that we see on a signpost, where a bridge is split in two by rays from a red star, on one side of the bridge stands a black night, on the other side there is a red cross. It is a pleasant walk in the morning hours. Water is flowing unceasingly from the fountain in Cornado.

A girl went past the bar in Vilaserio during breakfast, now we pass her while she take a break in the sunshine. She was up early, as she enjoy the time she get to herself when walking alone. From where she sit, the view is a pleasant cultural landscape. Last year it was grey here, now it is green. The biggest problem for my part on the walk now, is really my own feeling that I take too much pictures. Kjetil has to wait several times for me as I take pictures of almost everything, life through a lens, while I quite ridiculous becomes slightly annoyed by always getting a yellow backpack in the frame. Taking pictures of the routes I go, documenting, has nevertheless been an important part of my walks and something I will struggle to stop doing.

Mirador do Corzón, view back towards the hill the Camino goes around (Vilar do Castro is just on the other side of the hill). To get up here, you have to leave the Camino after passing through the village of Lago. There is a nice view in all directions from the viewpoint.

In Santa Mariña, I have to persuade Kjetil to eat breakfast, so we go down to Casa Pepa for him to eat and to get a coffee for me. There are no places to get food after Santa Mariña until you get do Ponte Olveira (Casa Pepa is not the only place in the village, but the albergue is situated in a more quiet spot than the two places that are located next to the road. In Vilar do Castro, we find out that it must have been an old stone fortress or castle on the hill above the village, we make an effort to get up, but are met by two local farmers who shepherds us down and insist that we cannot get up from here. This part of the route is nice and pleasant, but we would have preferred that the route crossed over the hill instead (for the views).

San Cristovo de Corzón.

We make another attempt to get us up to higher ground afterwards, but give up when the road we tries is beginning to bear downwards again. When we later look across to the road we tried, we see that we gave up just before a dirt road takes off from the road, which leads upwards to the cliffs on the top of the hill. As a remedy, we go up to the same ridge that I climbed up to last year. Clouds have begun to populate the sky now, and it feels a little bit as last year, except that there are no rain in the horizon. We are still both pleased by this excursion to the Mirador de Corzón. I wonder if there are other pilgrims that are heading up here, most seem too busy just to follow where the yellow arrows leads. That may probably be more than enough for many people though, any additional detours requires too much perhaps.

When we arrive in Olveiroa, it is time for lunch, so we take a break. Next time I walk the Camino Finisterre, I have to stay here, it is a pleasant small village and the municipal albergue looks nice. I had a great time when I walked between Olveiroa and Logoso last year, when the weather was grey and I had the feeling that I was wandering in a wasteland. Brighter weather today, the walk is different, but still great. Kjetil has however picked up his pace and I am struggling to keep up with him, he hurries past the wind turbines, the river below and the modern bridge and then suddenly we are in Logoso.

Waymarker outside Olveiroa.

Outside the small and cosy albergue, there are already several pilgrims sitting and relaxing, including one from Austria that we met in Vilaserio. In the end, we do not let the chance to sit down and enjoy the sun and a few cold beers get away from us. I can now see the hill with the windmills on the top from here, where last year all I could see was a grey wall. We spend some time talking with the Austrian, before we head off again; we still have about ten kilometres left to go.

Murals in Olveiroa.

Walking in this part is more exciting now, as I now can look further into the horizon. Up by Hospital, I notice a quite distinct mountain ridge that clearly stands out from the rest of the landscape to the south of us. With the better visibility, some ugly buildings that looks like a factory of a kind appears and spoils the walk a tiny bit. Then we come to where the routes split up and we will go to the right and Muxia. If I change my mind now and decide to go to Finisterre instead, we will have to go all the way to Cee to get a place to stay for night, but then I would get to see the ocean view that I missed last year.

To Dumbria, the Camino follows the road for a while, through an open landscape with little vegetation, before a waymarker-stone directs us off the road and into the undergrowth. Now I am back to wondering what awaits me around the next corner. The trail is a pleasant walk until As Carizas, where we pass by two pilgrims that has clearly found something in common on the Camino. There were also in Vilaserio when we got there yesterday, but continued further. I suppose they are a little bit more free-spirited according to where they spend the nights, nothing wrong by that. I wonder if we should not arrive in Dumbria soon and then we are suddenly there.

At Hospital, the landscape is more open, in the background you can see a distinct mountain ridge that stands out from the rest of the landscape.

The albergue is the first building you come to when you arrive in Dumbria and I knew in an instant that we had arrived when I saw the building, not only by the appearance, the laundry outside the building gives away a lot. The building is of an architecture that looks quite fresh and modern when it is new, but feels worn out after a few years of use, with different colours on the different parts of the building. There is no hospitalero at the albergue, outside there is a note where it is written that we can just find ourselves a bed and arrange the formalities later. There are more pilgrims here than expected, but there is no problem finding a free bed for the night, we share the dormitory with a mother and son from Korea. Otherwise, the albergue looks nice and modern inside.

The waymarker-stone indicating where the Camino Finisterre splits and the routes to either Finisterre or Muxia is going. Oddly enough, the scallops points in the same direction for both the alternatives. We are now taking the right turn towards Dumbria and Muxia.

When we later go through Dumbria to find a place to get food, it looks like an almost deserted village. It is absolutely quiet in the streets (more like the only street). All the bars we see and pass by are closed. A strange mood. Is the village in the process of being abandoned? Are the villagers hiding from the scary pilgrims? Outside the school, the fence posts are dyed in the colours of the rainbow, children of the rainbow and there are no one there (though it is school holiday). We finally find the local store, thinking that we can buy some food to cook in the albergue, but struggles to find something suitable and easy to make.

The Camino towards Dumbria and Muxia.

It turns out that there is also a restaurant attached to the store (Meson O'Argentino) and when we asked about dinner, we are ushered into a small and hidden part of the place. Here we learns the whereabouts of the pilgrims that we could not account for at the albergue, they are here eating. The dinner we are served is actually not bad, it is actually quite good and it is a lot of food. Two large cutlets each with a lot of potato chips, after we have eaten a large portion of sopa de gallego.

In Dumbria, the Santa Eulalia church in the village.

Clouds have unnoticed taken over the sky. Back at the albergue, there is still no sign of the hospitalero. We sit outside in one of the terraces in the albergue and relax with a couple of beers. Outside, the wind has begun to blow, howling half-heartedly through the trees. It has been a good walk from Vilaserio today. Dumbria feels a little odd, but that may also very well be the reason why I like it here, these small and strange places my walks brings me to. While the trees sways in the wind, the last night on the Camino slowly comes closer. Still no one has showed up when we go to bed.

<- VilaserioMuxia ->

Camino Muxia // day 5 // Santiago de Compostela - Vilaserio

Camino Muxia day 5.
Distance: 32.6km (155.8km), time spent: 9:11 (44:22).
Weather: Nice and warm.

Above Santiago de Compostela the sky are beginning to brighten, although it is early in the morning the first pilgrims of the day has already taken their last steps on the Camino and arrived at Praza do Obraidoiro. We could hear the clicking of the hiking poles against the cobblestones outside in the morning. From them, the walk may be over; to us, this day marks the start of a new route, the Camino Muxia. I have twice walked the Camino Finisterre from Cee, so this time I want to take the route that goes directly to Muxia after Hospital. Negreira was not really a place of my liking, now I have thought that we continue towards Vilaserio instead.

In the morning, sunlight streams through the streets of Santiago de Compostela behind us.

Crossing Praza do Obraidoiro in the morning is the very opposite of yesterday, at the large space it is completely empty of people and it is silent. We find some pilgrims in a small café in the streets just below the cathedral (the same street as the new pilgrim's office are located in), they eat breakfast after completing their Camino, and we eat breakfast to start our second part. When we go through the last streets of Santiago, sunlight streams down through them.

Just outside of Santiago, we can look back and watch the spires of the cathedral and churches in Santiago rising towards the sky.

I have walked the Camino Finisterre before, so I know what awaits us, at least until Hospital. I remember that the walk to Negreira was pleasant until you cross beneath the highway just before the town; from there it was not that exciting, and fortunately it is not so long of a walk before you arrive in Negreira. There have been no changes since last year that I can see, except that the hotel at Ponte Maceira (which has a wonderful sello and a good burger) is not open yet when we get there. A small tent that stood in the outskirts of Santiago now has got another tent as a neighbour.

Kjetil walking on the wonderful old bridge in Ponte Maceira.

The route is still just as pleasant; the biggest difference from last year is that we now meet more pilgrims than I did last year, especially pilgrims who walk in the opposite direction. One of those we meet walking towards Santiago, is a pilgrim with bright and blond, partly braided hair. With heavy and distinct steps, he pounds onwards, his face stern and tense, like a Viking. Kjetil salute him as he passes us, which are just answered by an abrupt and rancid 'ssssssshhh', someone clearly has a bad day. During the rest of our journey, this shush becomes the source of much amusement; I almost consider answering the same to a random pilgrim we will meet, just to see how the reaction will be. The funniest meeting on the walk.

A sort of a shy Camino waymarker-stone trying to hide behind a tree, after Ponte Maceira. Some have had enough of his boots and left them beh ind, a typical sight on a Camino.

As last year, we take a break in Augapesada; the bar looks the same since last time, the pilgrims different. I notices more often the milestones that indicates the number of kilometres left to Muxia now. This time, I actually get a stamp in my pilgrim credential from the bar in Trasmonte (Casa Pancho), which I did not get last year. It is a pity that there is not an albergue in Ponte Maceira, so beautiful the small village with the magnificent bridge is. I think I would have enjoyed sitting out here in the evening.

Church outside Negreira.

The town of Negreira is more full of life than it was the last time, maybe it is a market here on Sundays. There is a huge commotion when we sit and eat lunch, so many cars that the local police have to go out and direct, the police whistle is somewhat enervating. The large bocadillos with lomo (pig) and a large, cold cerveza con lemon however more than make up for it. I still cannot explain why I decided to stay here and not proceed further last year, but the weather is great and I will now walk over to Vilaserio in nice weather as opposite to my previous Camino here.

Time has stood still in this bar in Zas for a while.

Where I last year walked over the hill towards Vilaserio in a grey weather, there were several places with poor visibility, today I could see small farms and roads emerge at places I could not see then. The woods are also brighter, not so weighed down, more life, but not so melancholic. I have mentioned that I like to walk in melancholic settings, so even though the weather did not appear at its best last year I had a good walk then.

End of ze world zis way.

The bar in Zas was not opened last year, or I just walked blindly past it in the fog, but it is now. It is a classic example of a place where time seems to have stood still, amusing, coca-cola break. It is written in my guidebook that there should be a pilgrim-friendly bar in A Peña, I did not find it last year, now they have taken the consequences of it and drawn yellow arrows on the ground, as well as signposts that displays the way to the bar (and new albergue). We follow the arrows up, take a beer in the heat, follow the arrows down and continue on the Camino towards Vilaserio.

These tall trees that looks like overgrown vegetables (like dill) never ceases to amaze me.

We arrive in Vilaserio, the only sight of other pilgrims after Negreira was another one that we could see walking a little ahead of us. To get a bunk at the albergue there, O Rueiro, was not difficult, there are not that many others here, most finish their walk in Negreira. Vilaserio is not large, but it has everything one needs, clean, neat and with a restaurant and bar for food and drink. I make use of the opportunity to wash and dry my clothes in the washer and dryer at the albergue.

Looking out over a cultural landscape from the walk over the ridge to Vilaserio.

There is also a very basic municipal albergue in the outskirts of the small village (hamlet more or less), some of those who stay there are here for beer and food. It is hot and we relax outside the albergue, take a walk in the afternoon, where the local farmers herds the cows. Negreira is bigger, but it is nicer here.

Albergue O Rueiro in Vilaserio.

Today in the morning, I received at last some good news regarding our baggage. The airline had found our backpacks and they were now at the airport in A Coruna. The problem however, is that neither of us are there anymore, and we will not get there later in our journey either. By calling Vueling I get, after waiting for a long time, arranged that they will send them to the airport in Santiago de Compostela. Then it only remains to see if it is true, when we travel back home again.

We eat dinner inside in the restaurant, later France against Iceland is shown on the tv, it does not goes Iceland's way. Today was quite similar to my first day on the Camino Finisterre last year, fair weather and a pleasant walk, but continuing to Vilaserio was a far better choice. I am pleased that I get to walk from Negreira in nice weather, then I got to see this route in both types of weather.

<- Santiago de CompostelaDumbria ->

Camino Inglés // day 4 // Hospital de Bruma - Santiago de Compostela

Camino Inglés day 4.
Distance: 40.0km (123.2km), time spent: 9:52 (35:11).
Weather: Rain in the morning, then nicer and nice during the day.

In the morning on the fourth and last day on the Camino Inglés, it is even more grey outside than it was yesterday morning, it is raining and today the church spires of Santiago de Compostela awaits us in the gloomy horizon. We have a long walk ahead of us today, forty kilometres; but as we lost a few days due to the delayed luggage, we do not want to split up this leg into two shorter ones.

Leaving Hospital de Bruma in a light rain in the morning, outside the church, the lamppost is still on.

We embarks out in the rain after breakfast, which gives us a chance of testing the ponchos we bought, though it is not the heaviest of rain. Around us, the clouds is folding heavily down across the Galician countryside, which adds a certain melancholic atmosphere to the surroundings. It is quiet on the country roads; we can hear the raindrops falling on the ground. Even though the weather is grey, I like it as we walks in the morning, so there is a certain chance that I enjoy walking in melancholy surroundings.

A grey and melancholic Galician landscape in the morning.

The weather has slowly started to ease as we enter between the first houses of Cabeza de Lobo, when I recall that there is something that I have forgotten. It comes back to me just before we stand right in front of it, by others who has walked this Camino; I have seen pictures of a large, almost full-scale dinosaur along the route. Although it is not standing at the same place as in the pictures now, but stand more stowed away beside a warehouse. The dinosaur is not alone in being a curious element along the Camino in this village; countless weird sculptures are placed next to the road, including a tractor on bent rails.

Kjetil walking in the rain on a quiet country road after Hospital de Bruma.

In A Rúa / Buscas it is coffee o'clock, Solvor is already seated at the first bar we come to (Bar Novo). The weather has eased and the clouds seems to be in a rush to get away from us. This part of the Camino is nicer than expected. We alternate between going on small and less trafficked roads and quiet forest roads. Buildings are never far away, both farms, churches and often, the abandoned and dilapidated memories of former homes.

In Cabeza de Lobo, pilgrims will meet this dinosaur (or dinogrim); I am unsure whether if it is a diplodocus, brontosaurus or brachiosaurus. As well as the dinosaur, there were numerous other weird sculptures standing around in this village.

Then we cross the highway and everything changes, the Camino changes character, it flattens out and forms almost a straight line of approximately six kilometres of relatively dull walking. Ahead of us, a lone figure wanders. We overtake her, an elderly French woman, smiling, has gone from Le Puy some years ago, now she just takes it slow and calm. A small friendly meeting on the Camino. Sigüero welcomes us by a small park, where we sit down and eat the melon that Kjetil has carried for a long time (it is about time, it would barely held any longer).

Even though we are getting closer to Santiago de Compostela, the route still goes through several sections of forests, here on a path through a tunnel of vegetation.

Sigüero gives no impression of being particularly exciting, but it is definitely time for lunch. Where the route goes through the town, we are a little bit uncertain of. At Miras, we order some dishes that quickly proves to be larger than expected, croquetas, tortilla and jamon serrano on toasted bread. Solvor suddenly appears and we waves at her to join us at the table. A local man comes out, starts talking in English, hints about that we should stay here and that he can drive us the short ride to Santiago tomorrow. He intends to pay for our cervezas. We say no, but finds out that he has paid for them anyway when I ask for the bill. This is so far Solvor goes today, so we say goodbye to each other before we continue.

Lunch in Sigüero, Kjetil and Solvor. On the table in front of us, a larger meal than expected.

Now there are only about twenty kilometres left to Santiago, they go through surprisingly enough many forest sections. When we leave Sigüero, we can hear the sound of a shotgun going off twice. I make a pinecone animal that I place on a waymarker-stone. From being dark, gloomy and rainy in the morning, it has now changed to be hot with a cloudless sky above.

Igrexa de Barciela outside of Sigüero.

The very last stretch toward Santiago gets somewhat strange, we arrive at a small junction where there is a yellow arrow saying that the Camino oficial goes to the left, while there is another yellow arrow pointing in the other direction toward a waymarker-stone. The guidebook says we should turn right, but according to the tarmac, it is not the official route. A car stops by and says it is the oficial that is the correct way. The purist in me screams in such situations like this and for a good while I walk with the feeling that we walk on a route that is the locals who have marked to guide the pilgrims to their establishments (memories from Turkey and the Lycian Way).

The detour, or the official way, goes first through a boring stretch along a road, but after a while, it ventures out in a quite pretty and nice forest with the sun shining through the trees. Then we are dumped out next to a high trafficked highway that leads to Santiago and I fear that this route will follow this highway all the way into the city. We take a cola break at a hotel / restaurant next to the highway. Then we walk along the highway, fortunately, the waymarks leads us away from the highway shortly afterwards and brings us back to a familiar waymarker-stone. I still feel unsure whether this really was the correct way.

The Way to Santiago, the most pleasant part of the final last kilometres of Camino Inglés, through nice and bright woods on the route marked as the camino oficial.

We are rapidly approaching Praza do Obraidoiro, Camino Inglés enters Santiago on a different route than the Camino Frances / Primitivo / Norte do. The route through the city is not so bad, but it is not waymarked as Camino Frances is, so we spend some time figuring out where it really goes. I feel a certain excitement by arriving in the city again; I am not sure what Kjetil really feels. From the moment we are in the city centre, there is a significant change in the number of people and pilgrims (as well as tourists).

Arrived in Santiago de Compostela at the Praza do Obreidoiro, the cathedral still under maintenance in the background.

Upon arrival at the large plaza in front of the cathedral you have to just sit down, put on a smile and think that you have made it...again. We have reached the goal, but the adventure is not over yet, barely halfway. Around us, the plaza is full of hustle and bustle, pilgrims everywhere, on foot, on bikes and with paddles. We share a beer and just sit down watching the people around us, the sea of pilgrims and the cathedral that still is not finished with the maintenance work.

Santiago in the evening, the lights from Praza do Obreidoiro illuminates the front of the cathedral.

Then we go to our hotel, A Casa do Peregrino, where we get a shower and a short break before we go out in the city. We pick up our Compostelas, this time also the personalized version that specifies the numbers of kilometres you have walked and from where you started your pilgrimage as well. Checks the status of our delayed baggage, no changes there. Takes a few beers in the sun. Have dinner at the Taberna do Bispo, I still do not know a place with better tapas (I repeat from last year, their fried brie tapas with blueberry sauce is the best tapas I have ever tasted).

The Compostela for Camino Inglés.

We end the evening at Cafe Casino with a coffee liqueur. The European Championship-match between Germany and Italy is shown on a screen, the penalty shootout must contain the worst collection of penalties ever, but it was exciting to watch it. Tomorrow it is once again out on the road, heading towards Muxia.

The personalized Compostela you can get for 3€, it will also display how many kilometres you have walked, which Camino and where you began your pilgrimage from.

Camino Inglés is probably not the most exciting of the Caminos, but nevertheless it is a short and pleasant walk. My expectations were not so high, but we had a nice walk from Ferrol. If you have less time available and want to complete a full Camino, this one like Camino Finisterre is a suitable option. And there are fewer pilgrims along this route during the summer than it is on the far more overcrowded Camino Frances after Sarria. Buen Camino!

<- Hospital de BrumaVilaserio ->

Camino Inglés // day 3 // Betanzos - Hospital de Bruma

Camino Inglés day 3.
Distance: 28.7km (83.2km), time spent: 7:57 (25:19).
Weather: Light drizzle in the morning, overcast remaining of the day.

Day three on the Camino will bring us to an important junction on the Camino Inglés, Hospital de Bruma. As the site of an ancient pilgrim-hospital, Bruma marks the point where the two routes from Ferrol and A Coruna meet. Before we started on the Camino, I was a little bit worried about how many pilgrims we would meet there, as there are only 26 beds in the albergue. Since there were only 3 in the albergue in Pontedeume and 13 in Betanzos, I am not that worried anymore, but it is a long distance to the next albergue if the albergue in Hospital de Bruma should be full (Siguero, 24km).

The Camino crosses a railway track in the woods after Betanzos on this bridge.

A look out of the window in the morning reveals the weather outside to be grey and dreary, with a light drizzle in the air. Sitting around the various tables in the ground floor of the albergue, are sleepy pilgrims eating breakfast. One by one, or together in a small group, they pack together, pick up their backpacks and disappear out the door. After having done the same thing, we follow after, out to the early twilight and quiet streets that are barely wet from the small rain. Out of Betanzos, after a small ascent, a local waterworks company has erected a pilgrim statue showing the way forward.

Remote surroundings in grey and drab weather.

From Betanzos it is approximately 28km to Hospital de Bruma, where the route goes through a quiet and peaceful countryside. There are no towns or villages to speak of, only farms, small hamlets or smaller villages that the route passes through, with few places to obtain drinks and food along the way. After the two first days on the Camino, this stage will probably feel more secluded and remote.

San Esteban de Cos.

The first kilometres of the days feels exactly as described, we walks on small and quiet village roads through forests and culture landscapes in the outskirts of the local settlements around. Shortly after Betanzos, we cross over the railway on an old stone bridge. The grey weather lies heavy over the landscape. Small information boards stands along the route, all with faded information that cannot be read any longer. After 7km, we have come to San Esteban de Cos, an old church with one church bell in the clock tower.

Camino waymarker stone, these usually stand on the ground next to the Camino, this one was placed inside a wall as a part of it.

The fact that the Camino is a spiritual experience for many is well known, but for some it is also a symbol of hope and peace. We repeatedly pass by small pieces of paper hanging from the trees (sort of reminding me of the hiking ribbons in South Korea), and some that have fallen to the ground. The papers contains various statements about peace from famous people (like Gandhi and Mother Teresa), refugees and unknown people. 'Love is the foundation of peace' (Roger) stands on one of the ribbons, 'Peace is not something you wish for. It is something you make, something you do, something you are, and something you giveaway '(Robert Fulgham) on another. These are fine words, but still I do not feel that it is here along a Camino that these words are the most needed.

We passed by this axe set in a fence post after Leiro.

For those who think that 28km is too far to walk, there is a small albergue in Presedo about 10km after Betanzos. Although the albergue is not located directly on the route, Kjetil and I goes down to it to see how it looks like. The hospitalera, a smiling lady, meets us at the door, stamps our credentials and tells us that there were 9 pilgrims who slept there this night. The albergue is small, but looks pleasant. We take a break next to the church, Santuario da Nosa Senora da Saleta, while a group of pilgrims who also were at the albergue in Betanzos arrive. They are going to stay here at Presedo. According to my guidebook, there are no places to get food here, but shortly after leaving Presedo, we come to a place called Meson-museo Xente no Camiño. So it appears that facilities along this stage has grown. We take a cup of coffee sitting outside amongst walls decorated with pilgrim and medieval artworks.

After Presedo, we continue walking on quiet country roads, the weather showing no signs of lifting, although it is not raining. Passing by the church Santa Eulalia de Leiro, we notices that it has two bells in the clock tower, does it symbolize that it covers a larger district than Cos for example? Bar Julia, or Casa Julia as it is written over the door, probably earns good money by being appropriate located for lunch between Betanzos and Bruma. Here I take delight in a bocadillo with sausage (salchicon) and a cold beer, while Kjetil goes for a bocadillo with cured ham. The father with the two kids about eleven years old arrives not long after us, sporty done by the two youngsters to walk the Camino.

Casa Julia, the bar is situated about halfway between Betanzos and Hospital de Bruma and is in that way a good place to stop for lunch. If the bar is closed, the water tap on the wall is probably highly welcome (if the water is turned on).

After Casa Julia, the second of the two steepest sections of the Camino Inglés awaits us and there is a small punch to it. On the way up, we pass by a small worn out bumblebee, which we try to help by placing it on the top of some flowers. In Vizoño, the clouds have suddenly turned dark and for a (very) brief moment the air is full of rain, we do not see any signs of the said bar that is supposed to be here. A sign with Castro Maior written on it, together with an almost indistinguishable symbol marking an attraction, leads us on a fruitless hunt in the fog. It must have been an old castle or fortress here, but where we think it must have been it is now overgrown and inaccessible.

A rusty 'flowerpot' with the yellow arrow on, on the ascent from Casa Julia to Vizoño.

Bruma is barely more than a hamlet, I am actually not sure that we are in Bruma before I recognize the sign outside the albergue. Solvor have arrived before us as usual. It is a nice albergue, built in a renovated pilgrim-hospital from the middle ages. Changes has happened here as well, now there is a bar close to the albergue that serves food (until 20:00). Nice, but also a little pity at the same time. I had been looking forward to the arrangement here that I had heard about, where the pilgrims (who wanted to), choose from a menu from a bar (Bar La Ruta, the hospitalero had the menu). The hospitalero then ordered the food and then the bar would deliver it, set up the table inside the albergue with the food and drink that was ordered. That way it would became a sort of a communal meal, and it will not be the same now.

In a misty landscape on a lookout for a possible castle, Castro Maior. We did not find any old castle, only fog, a helipad, some antennas and a lot of vegetation.

Around us, the farmers goes on with their daily lives, herding sheep (by car) and working the land, while we are relaxing outside the albergue. Most of the pilgrims who were in Betanzos also come here, even those who at first was going to stay in Presedo. In addition, some who have come from A Coruna.

An old man does his laundry in Bruma, this is the first time I have seen anyone use one of these old types of laundries.

The bar, Casa Graña, has the usual menu del peregrino. I go for a pasta salad with tuna as primero, cutlet with potato chips as secundo and flan (caramel pudding) as postres. Kjetil goes for the other option on the menu, sopa de gallego (soup) as primero, chicken with potato chips as secundo, but the same dessert as me. Solvor eat dinner together with the two elderly ladies who had come from A Coruna. I had to help explaining the difference between the menu and just a single plate for them (from Spanish).

The albergue in Hospital de Bruma. A nice albergue, the wall we see originates from the old medieval pilgrim-hospital. 26 beds, bath and toilet located in a small building opposite the albergue (where you see the hospitalero is sitting). A vending machine outside had beers and sodas if wanted.

I have always enjoyed staying in these tiny places on a Camino, I always feel so relaxed here, although there is not so very much to do at the place. We finish the evening with a beer outside the bar, though I later sit alone outside the albergue when the rest of the pilgrims have gone to bed. I usually cannot sleep if I go too early to bed. Just to sit quietly outside and enjoy the fresh air feels like a good end to this third day on the Camino Inglés.

<- BetanzosSantiago de Compostela ->