Thursday, August 3, 2017

Sunrise at Fannaråken

Massiv day 16.
Distance: 0km (325.2km), time spent: 0:00 (126:47).
Ascent / descent: 0m (11161m) / 0m (10091m).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 2068m / 2068m / 2068m.
Weather: Almost clear blue sky, sunrise, some clouds.

I wake up about half past three in the morning, at random, and takes a quick look out of the window from where I sleep. Where a fairytale world is revealed. Outside it is the blue hour before the sun rises, almost no clouds in the sky and the peaks around Fannaråken are rising majestically towards the sky. I just have to go out. Everybody else is sleeping. I consider waking them up, telling them that they must not miss out on this, that this is something they really should see. Outside it is quiet. And it is absolutely fantastic.

A clear and chilly morning air greets me when I walk out of the door. The stones around the cabin are slippery, the morning frost has created a thin layer of ice on the surface. Around the peak, the world is sleeping. Hurrungane with Storen (the third highest peak in Norway) are rising up to the south of me, I could barely see them yesterday. I stay outside a long time admiring the view before I go inside again and sleep some more until sunrise.

When I wake up again to see the sunrise, there are more clouds on the sky, but there still is a wonderful view over the mountains. The sky has assumed a more red colour. The sun is moving.

And what a sunrise it is, it is like a volcano that erupts into a sea of flames. Alongside the edge of all the clouds in the horizon there is a reddish shine underneath. I was first alone outside the cabin, but later there are also some few others that has gone out, but most of the others are witnessing the sunrise from the cabin. It is nothing but wonderful. I had not believed this when I walked up here yesterday. I am not going to write any more, just let you see the pictures from the sunrise at Fannaråken.

When I woke up at the usual time again, the peak was immersed by the clouds again, back to normal.

<- FannaråkenKongsdøla ->

Wednesday, August 2, 2017

Skogadalsbøen - Fannaråken

Massiv day 15.
Distance: 10.7km (325.2km), time spent: 5:40 (126:47).
Ascent / descent: 1327m (11161m) / 95m (10091m).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 816m / 2068m / 2068m.
Weather: Overcast, rain, fog, snow and fog.

Today the greatest barrier of getting all the way to Sota Sæter stood ahead of me, the hike up to Fannaråken. It was here that my plan for staying at Skogadalsbøen came into play, I was able to leave behind all of my camping gear at the cabin, that is the tent, sleeping mat, food and stove. It amounts to a lot of weight. I am very grateful for the kindness of those working at Skogadalsbøen for letting me leave it there (then I just hope they do not become angry about me writing about it, if it suddenly should be a lot of people doing the same thing afterwards).

Section through a forest on the first part of the hike from Skogadalsbøen, there would be no trees and woods on the rest of the walk up to Fannaråken.

When I set out from Skogadalsbøen, I must have weighed more than usual anway, but we are then talking about bodyweight. I had eaten a well sized breakfast. There is just one problem with my backpack now being considerable lighter, I walk a lot faster. So quick that I consider walking down again after having been at the top, fearing that there would be a lot of idle time at the summit. I let it be with the consideration, but was close to doing it. When I first have a chance to spend a night at the highest situated 'hotel' in Norway, I should not let it go (although, I will probably get several chances later).

Two sheep looks curiously at me on the way up Jervvassdalen with the Jervvassbreen glacier in the background.

I am thoroughly happy when I arrive at the cabin in snow and fog, but I was not in such a good mood all the time on my way up. At Jervvatnet, it began pouring down again and truth be told, now I was a little bit tired of the continuing bad weather. Got tired of it in the end. So when I speak with some that has come down from Fannaråken, my tone was probably quite harsh (without them deserving it). My mood quickly changed however.

More winter than summer at Keisarpasset, fortunately at this time most of the rain had abated.

Until then it had been a fine walk up from Skogadalsbøen. The woodland after the cabin was quite nice and I could note that just after where the trail crosses over Utla on a bridge, there is a large and good place for camping. The path up Jervvassdalen is simple and easy going, but the mountains around are far from it. Then the rain drops hits me hard in my face at Jervvatnet.

A cool stony path up towards Fannaråkshytta, here above Elvatnet.

At Keisarpasset it is more winter than summer, both on the ground and in the air, although there is not snow but fog you find there. The snow would however come later, as mentioned. From there and up it gets steep, in line with my mood, while the clouds lifts a tiny bit. I know that someone I know also is hiking the Massiv trail and has begun walking from Sota Sæter, and across the snow just after Keisarpasset there is a hiker coming down from the mountain that resembles him, but it is not him. Only a guide on the way down to catch up with the rest of his group (which I had met). It would anyway have been too early.

The path up to Fannaråken are at times well constructed, reminding me of the old wagon tracks (kaldirim) that I walked on in Turkey.

Up from the winter-clad Keisarpasset the trail goes steep and winding up the mountainside to Fannaråknosi. The path is incredibly cool. Some of the parts reminds me a lot of constructred wagon tracks of stone, like the kaldirim that I walked on in Turkey. On the way up, the clouds are turning the mountains below into battlefields, they tear and wear at what can be found of mountains. In between there are tiny hints that it will be opening up above me, for only to close again, but looking down the view is good (and cool). Stony, but beautiful. Amazing scenery.

Clouds wearing and tearing apart the landscape below me on the way up to Fannaråken. Keisarpasset down to the left.

I have a lunch break right next to where guided tours over the glacier comes up from Sognefjellshytta, but there are no one coming from there when I sit in shelter for the wind behind a rock. I am probably not there at the right moment. I might (and probably should) have taken a guided tour on the glacier down from Fannaråken, but then I had to struggle upwards with the backpack fully loaded.

View through the clouds down towards Sognefjellet where Massiv is continuing further from Fannaråkhytta and / or Skogadalsbøen.

Up at the top of the ridge there is no mercy, here the clouds are reigning. The pleasure of the walk up makes me do something I do not usually do. I forget myself a little and walks way too long out on the snow that is at the top of the ridge. First when I stand at the top of Fannaråknosi (1990m) do I see how stupid that really was. It goes straight down from the edge of the snow, and there is an overhang. From where I walked up, I could not see the edge, it was not possible to differentiate between the snow and clouds behind. I have to reprimand myself some for doing that. The view from Fannaråknosi is besides that, cool. Very steep down, I do not want to fall down.

View from Fannaråknosi. Steep down from the snow at the top of the ridge. I was heading for the edge of the snow, without seeing the edge itself. The waymarks (red t's) should be followed at this part).

Then snow and more fog arrives on the last part to Fannaråkhytta across the scree at the top, I can just barely see the dormitory cabin at the top when I arrive. The cabin is living up to its reputation. And it stays foggy during the rest of the day, afternoon and evening. Although there was a short moment when a small window opened up around the cabin, but only enough to see the blue sky, the peaks around still obscured.

A foggy ridgewalk across the scree at the top of the ridge, on the last section up to Fannaråken, shortly after it started snowing.

There is no running water at the Fannaråkhytta cabin, given its location. Water is collected from rain in large containers. I just do a quick rinse in cold water. You get an assigned place to sleep in the dormitory cabin, which is separated from the main cabin below, where there is a room the visitors at the cabin can use, which is also used as the dining room. Dinner at Fannaråken is the same every day, here they do it easy and simple. They serve meatballs of reindeer, or in other words, a well-known dish at the DNT cabins, joikakaker. The cabin might be seen as a more advanced self-served cabin, there are also no alcohol served here for those who wants that (or need).

Fannaråkhytta, the highest situated cabin in Norway with accommodation. Here visible for a short moment underneath a blue sky.

I get some idle time, but I cope fine with it. Outside, it is changing regularly, from a lot of wind, to less, to light rain, to easy snowdrifts and in between indications of a sun through all the clouds. Nice other guests to talk to, as it also was at Skogadalsbøen yesterday. No possibilities of seeing a sunset, and I doubt that it would be any sunrise to see tomorrow morning either. They are supposed to be legendary up here. A cool day.

Map of the trail for the fifteenth day on Massiv, from Skogadalsbøen to Fannaråken.

<- SkogadalsbøenSunrise at Fannaråken ->

Tuesday, August 1, 2017

Sløtatjernet - Skogadalsbøen

Massiv day 14.
Distance: 22.9km (314.5km), time spent: 9:26 (121:07).
Ascent / descent: 581m (9834m) / 1087m (9996m).
Altitude (start / end / highest: 1324m / 816m / 1430m.
Weather: Dark clouds, a lot of wind, several rain showers.

Not the longest day on my hike so far, but definitely among the hardest, if not the hardest one. Plenty of ascent, a cumbersome surface (lots of rocks, wet) and changing weather saw to that. Jotunheimen is mighty, with massive mountains and jagged peaks, the backside to this is that this part of Norway also is very rocky. And when the stones gets wet, they become treacherous to walk on. Though, as this became one of the toughest days on the hike, it also became one of the best.

At the summit of Torshamaren with a view over Tyin, with a light at the end of the tunnel.

My breakfast on the hike, when camping, consists of porridge, made from pre-prepared portions. I have a lot more of these prepared bags of porridge left than I need, given that it has become more nights at cabins than originally planned. The solution is however, very simple, double portions for breakfast. There are tiny drops of rain in the air when I pack together, but my tent is relatively dry when I continue walking. There is less if any sign of dryness in the clouds above me.

Snowy contrats. The trail passing over a snowbank on the way to Rusteggvatnet.

Shortly after set off, I get derailed. By myself. A quick look up towards Torshamaren is enough. It does not appear to be a long way up to the top, must be good views from there. At least, that was what was on my mind yesterday when I walked beneath it and looked up at those who were at the top then, tiny silhouettes towards the grey sky. I 'hide' my backpack at a large rock and make for a good speed up to the top. From the summit, Tyin is unfolding below me, covered by a grey sky, but at the end there are some light escaping through the layers of clouds. Although there is a lid across the mountains and peaks around me, it does not put a lid on the experience and joy of standing here.

A small window in the clouds let some light shimmer over Rusteggvatnene.

The trail over to Skogadalsbøen is barren, desolate and rocky, it is worst through Uradalen and alongside Uradalsvatnet that carries its name with pride (ur means scree). Here, the stones are slippery and makes no effort trying to get you to walk steadily. The lower part of Uradalen provides some relief, before a huge field of large rocks are barring the way (Storuri) and an ensuing wet, muddy and tiresome path down underlines the claim that this is the hardest day so far.

Kvitevatnet. A barren scenery underneath the grim clouds, not many colours to trace.

There was also not few passages across snow. Especially shortly after setting off, around Rusteggvatnet, but the sheer steep snowbank at the end of Kvitevatnet was the most distinctive. Here, I get the feeling of being a climber, quite exaggerated of course, but I should not make more than one mistake and I would had a painful meeting with the rocks below. Down from Uradalsbandet however, the snowbank was used as a lot quicker alternative for getting down than on the treacherous stones.

Climbing a sheer steep snowbank at the end of Kvitevatnet.

Uranostinden was under constant surveillance by the clouds while it was in my eyesight, but during short moments the supervision floundered and I could see the summit appear out of the clouds. On the way down Uradalen, I met two young girls and one boy on their way to climb the summit. They carried a heavy load and had spent a long time up from Skogadalsbøen. So long, that I for myself was a little bit scared of how much time it would take me to go down there. I do not know how it went, but I hoped that they would get a great climb up to the summit with views (although I really doubt they would).

Uranostinden, for short moment the peak was visible amongst the clouds.

The rain was abating and intensifying constantly during the whole stage. It rains when I eat lunch. But that does not matter. On the west side of Uradalsvatnet there is a large stone with an overhang, you could sit completely dry underneath it.

The angriest encounter of the hike, this lemming hissed so much that it actually was shaking back and forth on the ground, you could probably hear its tiny snarling from far away.

I met the first hiker of the day, coming from the opposite direction, in the north end of Uradalsvatnet below Uradalsbandet. A vigorous old man still hiking in his old hiking clothes, a useful reminder of the equipment hysteria of today. Time had passed since he left Skogadalsbøen, he was going to Fondsbu, which meant still at lof of hours left for him to go. But frankly speaking, I am nothing but impressed.

Flowers next to the path at Hurrungbrestvatnet, Hurrungane with the Jervvassbreen and Maradalsbreen glaciers in the background.

There is a wonderful sight in both ends of Uradalen (if the weather allows). When you walk towards the west, Hurrungane with Jervvassbreen and Maradalsbreen are towering in your line of sight. If you walk east, is the peak of Uranostinden rising majestic upwards. After having maneuvred myself through the wall that is formed by the huge stones at the end of the valley, there is a cacophoni of light in the sky. Then a slippery descent on a muddy path awaits me, where I all the time expect to see my legs disappear underneath me and slide down. It goes fine.

A cacophoni of light above Utladalen between Uradalen and Hurrungane.

A lot of people at Skogadalsbøen as well. So many that there are no places for me in the ordinary rooms and dormitories, I get stowed away in a small cabin outside. Inside the hut there are three rows of shelves, each with three storeys fitting four to five people. Narrow space between the shelves. It will be fun maneuvring past all the people with all our gear. The drying room is complete full. Tenting is slightly more tempting actually, but then I have to continue walking. I never really want to camp next to cabins.

Skogadalsbøen. A cosy DNT cabin, although I felt kind of stowed away.

Looking beyond that, the stay at the cabin is pleasant, with a good fish stew for dinner. The sky was just as mighty as the mountains today, massive clouds swallowing the peaks around me. And although the rain did all it could to make me unhappy, together with a tiresome and slippery surface as times, am I enthralled by todays walk.

Map of the trail for the fourteenth day on Massiv, from Sløtatjernet to Skogadalsbøen.

<- SløtatjernetFannaråken->

Monday, July 31, 2017

Slettningsbu - Sløtatjernet

Massiv day 13.
Distance: 25.7km (291.6km), time spent: 10:04 (111:41).
Ascent / descent: 778m (9253m) / 765m (8909m).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 1312m / 1324m / 1342m.
Weather: Overcast, with erratic showers of rain.

From Slettningsbu, I followed Massiv to the next cabin on the trail, Fondsbu, but I did not stop for the night there. Even though I took a long break there. I continued instead further to a lake about an hour away from the DNT cabin, Sløtatjernet. Not the most exciting day on the hike, probably underlined by a somewhat boring weather. Mostly overcast with erratic rain showers.

Both sides of the valley, on the way down from Slettningsbu to the field of cabins between Torolmen and Tyin.

The start of the day quite resembled yesterday, from Slettningsbu the trail quickly descends to the valley below. The walk down was nice enough, but at the bottom of the valley, a downpour and a field with cabins waited for me, I had to change to my waterproofs in the shelter of a transformer shed. Walking through a cabin field is not the most rewarding on a mountain hike (although, there are nice mountains around). While I walk on the path next to the road going through the valley, cars are passing by over the wet tarmac with people looking weird at me (oddly enough) where I go.

A straight road on the Massiv, dark clouds and a walk through a cabin field.

I was yesterday unsure of what possibilities I had of camping next to Tyin, I did count on that it should be possible to put up my tent alongside the water somewhere, but I cannot say that it tempted me. The path next to Tyin is extremely wet and marshy. So much that I choose to walk on the rocks and what little there is of sand on the beach next to the lake instead when possible. It is flat, but even so, incredible cumbersome walking.

Grey water, grey sky, Tyin in grim colours.

The finest part of the walk comes when the trail moves away from Tyin and up towards Trollsjøen next to Fonnkloppeggi. I get a lot more feeling of mountains here than it has been so far today. It is good that there is a bridge over Breikvamsbekken, the water runs strongly in the river. When I stand and look down at Trollsjøen, I think that I probably would have reached walking there today, if I had set my mind to it. At the same time, I think that I am satified having spent the night at pleasant Slettningsbu.

Above Trollsjøen with Jotunheimen in front of me.

Next to the lake there is a small hut. In a sneakpeek through the window, I can see that it is a cosy hut, but one part of the hut is not finished. Strangely enough, I cannot see any door leading in to that part. Just after the hut, I have to cross a small river between the small waters next to Trollsjøen. I just make it across without having to take of my shoes.

A tiny glimpse of the existence of a blue sky behind all the clouds, hear alongside Trollsjøen.

I get company by a buzzard again on the last part along the lake. Loud howls from the wingspan sailing above me. Down a large rock, there is also a rope attached to make sure you do not fall, it is seldom that I meet that here in the mountains of Norway (I then speak about the usual hikes, not climbing). The stone might be slippery when it is rainy weather, but I think it would be no problem going down it now anyway (I still of course have to use the rope).

The heart of Jotunheimen is getting closer, view down towards Bygdin and the mountains behind, on the way to Fondsbu and Eidsbugarden.

The path after Trollsjøen brings you down to a gravel track going along the northside of Tyin (the road continues further up Koldedalen, giving you the possibility of skipping the walk to Fondsbu if you want to). It crosses yet another river with heavy flowing water in, before it comes to the paved road at Tyinholmen. In my mind, I see a lot of walking on a road on this part.

Stone statue of Aasmund Olavsson Vinje outside Eidsbugarden, the first cabin there was build by the poet and journalist.

That I fortunately does not have to do, since I find a path from Tyinholmen that leads you to the cabin field above Fondsbu and Eidsbugarden. From there however, you have to go down between the cabins and on a road to Fondsbu. There are siginificant more people that I meet here than I have met in a long time. Both access to the cabin by car and boat, easy to get there. Although, it is a lot quieter here now than it was for a couple of days ago, when the music festival Vinjerock shaked the foundations of Jotunheimen.

On the way up to Sløtafjellet with Bygdin, Fondsbu and Eidsbugarden below.

At Fondsbu, I take a long break. It is like being back on the Massiv last year. Where I walked to a staffed cabin and relaxed with some cold beers, before venturing out again to find a place to camp at. I eat some simple food and have a couple of beers, while I sit and listen to people around me in the lounge talk about today's and tomorrow's walks. But where the others are moving to the dinner table, I lift up my backpack again and walks up again along the road. To where the trail leaves the road and goes up towards Sløtafjellet. I meet some people on their way down.

My tent next to Sløtatjernet.

At Sløtatjernet, I put up the tent on what little space I can find. It is quite rocky next to the lake, but it is just space enough for my tent. Windy and cloudy, but otherwise no rain. A nice evening, where a lighter layer of clouds later leads to more colours on the sky above me, the mountains and lake. I prepare my homemade hiking dish and feel otherwise content enough with the day, despite not being the most exciting. Now I am for sure in Jotunheimen.

Preparing my homemade hiking dinner at Sløtatjernet.

For tomorrow I have already decided to walk to Skogadalsbøen, I really want to camp, but there is a reason why I choose to go there (I would have walked there anyway, the trail goes there, but my thought involves stopping there for the night as well). That reason can those who reads about my hike, get to read about later.

Map of the trail for the thirteenth day on Massiv, from Slettningsbu to Sløtatjernet.

<- SlettningsbuSkogadalsbøen ->

Sunday, July 30, 2017

Nedre Skavlegiltjernet - Slettningsbu

Massiv day 12.
Distance: 14.9km (265.9km), time spent: 7:09 (101:37).
Ascent / descent: 679m (8475m) / 609m (8144m).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 1242m / 1312m / 1407m.
Weather: Overcast most of the time, but the first day without any rain while walking, came in the evening.

And then I might have exaggerated a little bit too much when it comes to not exaggerate. After having decided to calm down a bit and not to go so long days, distancewise, I ended up with quite the short walk today. Overly short perhaps. The time still disappeared though, I took my time on the way. I chose to go to Slettningsbu, since I could not see that there would be any suitable place after the cabin to camp at, until a long walk after it. From Slettningsbu, you go down to the cabin field between Tyin and Torolmen and I do not want to camp there, I was unsure of the possibilites alongside the shores of Tyin. I stopped at Slettningsbu.

On the way down from Nedre Skavlegiltjernet towards Kyrkjestølane, a view across the valley towards the mountains on the other side, where the clouds lie low.

It had rained during the night, but a break in the weather and wind in the morning made it possible to pack down the tent quite dry. It is grey outside anyhow. From Nedre Skavlegiltjernet the trail goes down into the valley to Kyrkjestølane. Parts of the descent goes through a wonderful birchwood, which provides for a welcome break from the more open scenery you otherwise walk in. With the leaves around me fluttering slowly in the wind through the trees.

Path through a pleasant birchwood down to Kyrkjestølane.

Down in the valley, the route then offer some church history, as it passes right next to the St. Thomas Church at Filefjell, originally a stave church inaugurated to Thomas Becket, the archbishop of Canterybury from 1162. In 1808, the small stave church was torn since the priests no longer could handle all the fuss related to the church, due to a myth that you could be healed by visiting the church. The church standing there now was built in 1971. The visit at Kyrkjestølane gives me the possibility to waste more time for two waffles and a little bit long awaited cup of hot coffee.

The Church of St. Thomas at Filefjell.

From Kyrkjestølane is Massiv crossing over the mountain area around Slettningsegge, from a road to another road. The ascent is relatively steep, but the terrain after is easier for the feet. It strikes me that if I had not decided to calm it down, I could have made quick headway of this part. The most cumbersome part of the day's stage was the walk next to Austrefjordtjerne and the descent down to Øvre Årdalsvatnet (which Slettningsbu is situated next to).

Going to the summit of Kyrkjenøse, at 1308m, is well worth the short and easy climb up from the path. The opposite side of the summit, the southern side, is very steep, but that provides you with a great view over the valley below and further behind towards Suletinden and Sulefjellet. There is a sting from the wind at the top. The whole edge of the ridge from Kyrkjenøse, past Støgonøse and to Skørsnøse is steep and precipitous on the side facing down towards the valley.

View from the summit of Kyrkjenøse.

Now that I walk at a leisurely pace, take my time and do not rush ahead, I get better time to take in my surroundings. That I usually rush ahead might be an exaggeration, but I am often driven by an urge to keep on walking, to continue further. Too curious to stop at times, and hence do not take a closer look around me where I am then. That being said though, even when I do walk in my usual pace, I still pay attention to what I can see.

A small stranded bush on a mossy rock, at a tiny lake near Slettningen.

You are not quickly done with Slettningen anyway, even how fast you walk. Unless you take the other option at the junction between Slettningen and Grønevatnet. I an pondering if I should take the path that goes through Grønedalen and around the westside of Slettningsegge to Slettningsbu, since it is slightly longer, but my choice still fall upon the route past Austrefjordtjerne. Across the river between the two lakes, I get no quarter, the shoes has to go off.

View over Slettningen with Sulefjellet and Suletinden behind in the horizon. Straight across on the other side is the trail coming up from Kyrkjestølane right next to Kyrkjenøse.

I share my place for lunch with a slightly anxious lemming where the path are moving away from Slettningen, it runs back and forth from behind the stones. As soon as it spots me, it strikes a full retreat. Alongside Austrefjordtjerne is the landscape again dominated by rocks, but much simpler to walk on that in the desert two days ago. Someone has forgotten a cloth doll, a small dog, it now functions as a guardian of one of the cairns.

Another stony landscape, at Austrefjordtjerne.

You get the reward for taking this way to Slettningsbu at the top of the pass before the descent to Øvre Årdalsvatnet. Even with clouds, both bright and dark ones lingering over the mountains, is it a massive and powerful sight. Where the peaks of Jotunheimen reaches towards the sky and are pushing themselves up through the layers of clouds. Another way to say it, is that the clouds are cutting off the top of the mountains. On the other side of the lake below me there are two small dots, the two huts at Slettningsbu. Must be a wonderful view here underneath a clear blue sky.

Magnificent view towards the peaks of Jotunheimen at the pass above Øvre Årdalsvatnet. Slettningsbu is visible on the other side of the lake below.

Along the lake, it is not first and foremost the short, but nice ridgewalk before the cabin that catches my attention. In the air above me, there is now a buzzard circle over me, with its high-pitched howls and wings in full span. It gets an answer from another buzzard shortly after, and then there are two of them sailing through the air, sceptical to what this wanderer on the ground is up to. They fly away just short of before I arrive at the self-served cabin. It is conspicuously quiet there after the howls from the birds.

A buzzard sailing on the air above me, following my every move.

I have fortunately lost so much time on my walk today, that I do not arrive at Slettningsbu too early, which also sort of reaffirms that I do not walk further today. It is a pleasant small cabin. And if I may say so, when it comes to the cabins of the Norwegian Trekking Association (DNT), I do like the self-served cabins the best. There is always more of a mood of its own on these cabins than on the staffed ones, which might be attributed to the fact that here you have to do the things yourself to stay (like preparing dinner). For my part, I spend some of the time to wash the clothes I walk in. An excellent excuse to stay one night at a cabin.

A short, but nice ridgewalk next to Øvre Årdalsvatnet before arriving at Slettningsbu.

Later, I see some others coming from the other side of the lake and I do not become alone as I first believed. Yet another couple doing a part of Massiv, they started their walk today from Sletterust at Torolmen (a short walk from here). It turns out afterwards, as repeatedly has been proven, that the world is small. One of them has been the girlfriend of one I played football with from my homeplace and is also the second cousin of some friends of my family (this I first found out when I saw the surname in the protocol). It is however nice with more people at the hut. For dinner I prepare the best canned food DNT has on their self-served cabins, bacalao.

Outside, the wind is increasing and there are never a day without rain on this hike, but this time it luckily comes in the evening only. I escaped any raindrops on my walk. A comfortable walk today, almost for a rest day to count. Which suited me just fine actually.

Map of the trail for the twelfth day on Massiv, from Nedre Skavlegiltjernet to Slettningsbu.

<- Nedre SkavlegiltjernetSløtatjernet ->