Friday, October 7, 2016

Nocito - Paúles de Sarsa

GR1 Sendero Historico day 29.
Distance: 36.6km (843.0km), time spent: 11:26.
Waymarking: Mostly good, but non-existing in the beginning out from Bara.
Weather: Nice.

There are some days on a long walk like this, which just takes hold of you and never let go. Where you know that what you experience will stay with you for a long time. This can be due to some remarkable and spectacular scenery or encounters with other cultures and people. Or a combination of both. In this case, it was where there was an absence of people that caught hold of me. From Nocito to Paúles de Sarsa the GR1 passes by a line of abandoned villages caught in stunning locations, an absolutely exceptional day. The history told yesterday, continued in a larger extent today.

A radiant morning on the walk from Nocito to Refugio de San Urbez.

When I leave Nocito early in the morning, the sky is pink. I had prepared and eaten breakfast inside my little room at the camping site, since I wanted to get an early start. The first thing I do is to go the wrong way, a recurring theme on this walk. The beauty that is created by both the fiery pink sunrise and the sun itself is not to be mistaken of, it is lovely. I walk in an ethereal world up towards Refugio de San Urbez wen the radiant rays from the sun are filtered by the trees and baths the landscape in a layered light. Refugio de San Urbez consists of a significant church, with tall trees as pillars outside, and a building that houses an albergue of a kind, closed. The place was clearly visible yesterday on the way down to Nocito.

Refugio de San Urbez.

Bentué de Nocito can be described as a starter to what is served later, then the small village is not entirely deserted either. It is however a long time since any preaches has been heard in the church. I am afraid that I will break the gate outside the church when I enter; it looks like it will fall apart at any time, like the church. Half an hour later, I come to the next abandoned village, Used. Here it also looks like the village has received a tiny hope of life.

Small waves of clouds over the summit of Tozal de Guara.

The walk has lost some of its magic when the sun is higher up in the sky and the trail has taken to the woods until Bara. On the way, I arrive at a place in the woods that will be an oasis for any one that loves to bath, Salto de Cardito. When the water is flowing here, it will run like a waterfall over the cliffs and down into a pond. Now it is dry, no waterfall and the lack of waterflow through the pond below has made the water stale and murky, to take a swim is not tempting.

Bara could be said to be like a last outpost on this stage, because after you venture out on hike destined for the history books. If you can find the way. In the village there are two sets of waymarks, both apparently leading to nowhere. It does feel like a shot in the blind when I set out on the ascending path, a walk in uncertainty whether I am on the right way or not. At this time, it must be mentioned that El Camino Natural de la Comarca de Hoya de Huesca is not following me anymore, our ways separated in Nocito. I am again in the kingdom of GR1, a somewhat uncertain destiny when it comes to waymarking. A white and red blaze calms my nerves a little bit further up into the history.

Salto de Cardito, advertised as the best place on the GR1 for a swim, but now late in the year, no water flows over the cliffs and down into the pond below. The water is dirty and murky, and taking a bath was not tempting, but with water flowing in the river it is not hard to understand that this is a small oasis in the woods.

For now, the path reveals itself in all its glory, with a parade of abandoned villages. Kind of pompous said, but there are possibly no better way to say it. The landscape is opening up, the surrounding area is unveiled. And I arrive at Nazare, deserted houses in a village from the past at the top of a hill, in the horizon the Pyrenees are towering. The magic from the morning has returned. Again is my mind filled with all these questions of who lived here. The church is in a remarkable good condition, the walls inside a whole and white. Nature is otherwise far ahead in reclaiming the houses to its embrace.

The Romanesque church in Nazare. The rest of the abandoned village is in a considerably worse condition.

The fields after Nazare are like a verdant heath. In the horizon, I am drawn towards the allure of the Pyrenees. Another hiker approaches, I am surprised by his appearance. It is a Frenchman that has a more random plan of where to hike, rather than following the GR1 as I do. Through the wonderful peculiar landscape, I come to yet another lost farm, not small of size either, Pardina Villanúa. I forget to look inside, the paintworks are supposed to be still intact. Below, I can see another an overgrown village, but the trail is not passing through that one.

A green moorland after Nazare with the Pyrenees towering in the background. Pardina Villanúa, the remnants of an abandoned farm, is visible to the right.

Otin is the next place coming up, here the houses are bigger, almost the sizes like in a small town, but still in ruins. Overgrown, with numerous years since any one has looked out from the metal balconies. Bar Otin someone has written on a wall of a house, but there is no bar to be found of course. Strangely enough, it is on the day when I visit the most abandoned villages that I meet the most people on the whole walk. It is almost bustling with a lively crowd here. Not hard to understand, to visit all this ghost sites in this weather is an experience beyond the ordinary. Torn canyons are revealed on a small detour off the trail afterwards, Oscuros de Otin. In front of Letusa, some bikers are resting, but these remains are not that exciting. The cows looks disapprovingly at me when I pass by the hamlet.

The ruins of Otin. On the wall it is written Bar Otin, but many ghosts and wanderers has passed through this deserted village since there was a bar here.

A relatively steep climb carries me up to the crowning glory. As with Nazare, Bagüeste is located at the top of a hill, with sweeping views over the Pyrenees. The remains of the village is a mass of buildings about to collapse, everywhere is nature about to reclaim what it has lost. The guidebook warns about following to the confusing waymarks through the village, but that is now fixed and a safe route through can be found.

Oscuros de Otin.

At the very top of the hill that Bagüeste is located at, lies the ruins of the church, Ermita de Santa Marina. The church is still standing, but inside it, only the sheep are now preaching. Once upon a time the walls were blue, now most of the inside interior has faded and fallen off. Inside, a lonesome sheep is staring intensely at me, so much that it almost feels eerie. I name the sheep Sheepula and goes out again. In the shadow of the bell tower, I sit down and eat lunch. The sun shines through an abandoned village when I leave Bagüeste.

The ruins of Bagüeste with the Pyrenees in the background. The abandoned village is situated in a stunning location at the top of a hill. The remaining houses are unsafe and nature is about to take the village back.

A boar snorts and disappears into the bush, the quiet remnants of Ermita de San Miguel says nothing when I venture down into the shrubby valley that leads back up again to Las Bellostas. Here, a paved road greets me. I have returned to the present again. This stage of the GR1 is an absolutely marvellous walk, but is somewhat marred by the last part going on the road. It is eight hurting and boring kilometres down to Paúles de Sarsa, there should be a better path down.

Inside the ruins of the Ermita de Santa Marina church in Bagüeste. Parts of the walls still has remains of what must have been a blue interior. Inside the church, a lonely sheep stood and looked intensely at me, which promptly made give it the name Sheepula.

When I arrive at Casa Rural de Fina, I am tired and my feet are hurting some, the long day has made its toll. The place is run by a friendly old lady. Before I even has got to take a shower, she shows me out on the small terrace, where a bottle of red wine and biscuits stands ready for me. After the shower, I sit and enjoy a cold glass of wine, while the sky once again takes on a pinkish hue. I see a farmer herd a flock of sheep, which flows around the church. The dinner is large and good, I answer yes for an extra icecream for desert. Yet another pleasant accommodation along the trail. An exceptional day, I quickly forget the walk on the road

<- NocitoLigüerre de Cinca ->

Thursday, October 6, 2016

Embalse de Arguis - Nocito

GR1 Sendero Historico day 28.
Distance: 21.9km (806.4km), time spent: 6:49.
Waymarking: Good.
Weather: Cloudy in the start, then great.

Then even more history came to light. Not in the shape of old towers and castles, but by where people has chosen to live and the traces of them after they abandoned their houses and villages. The route from Arguis to Nocito goes through a remote valley inhabited by ghosts and takes you deep into the scenic beauty of Parque Natural de la Sierra y Cañones de Guara.

A remote valley, view below Mesón Nuevo.

It looks like a battlefield outside the rooms in the floor under my room, the workers has done a thorough job of the breakfast, which stands ready for them in the morning. I have better time at hand and can enjoy a large and good breakfast before I keep company with the clouds seeking downwards from Sierra de Gratal. The grey weather still holds a firm grip on the sky.

Graveyard, house and church in the near-abandoned village Belsué.

To get back to the trail, I first have to go up to Arguis, which looks like a sleepy, but pleasant village. At first, I walk the wrong way, but is not long after on the right way up into the hills, with a view somewhat marred by the highway. If you remove all human paraphernalia, it would have been a nice climb up from Sierra de Gratal with its lunar landscape.

View back of Belsué.

Below Mesón Nuevo (which is anything but new), a remote valley spreads out, which veritably laments its grief, it carries all the evidence of being abandoned. Even the clouds has left the valley itself, I can see the mountains around and the melancholic scenery the route passes through, the weather matches the area well. The ruins of a small chapel is the first thing that I encounter, Ermita de los Linares. In one of the corners, there is a large gaping wound in the roof.

The ruins of Santa Maria de Belsué.

Still, the valley is not entirely deserted; there is still signs of life in the small village of Belsué. The place is semi-abandoned, but someone are still holding out. I wonder how it is to live in a place where more and more houses around you falls into decay. Even the staircase up to the bell tower of the church, which is dedicated to St. Martin, has fallen together with vegetation growing in its wake. Leaving a door left standing almost in mid-air. Here, the highway, which is close, feels far away.

Inside the ruins of the church in Santa Maria de Belsué.

The area around is open and dominated by gorse. The days of prosperity has long gone from this valley, something the ruins of large farm, Paridera de Ascaso, bear witness to. From a distance, it does not look that way, but up close, you see that the main building has collapsed inside. Below, a small river is running, which on warmer days could lure you out for a swim. The small river runs out into Río Fulmen, which again runs out into Embalse de Santa Maria de Belsué. There are no traces of the water in the lake, the reservoir looks like a large green meadow, even the lakes here are abandoned and in ruins.

En utsikt mot ruiner, Santa Maria de Belsué.

To wander in this deserted valley is a haunting, exhilarating and quaint experience; alone, with no signs of other people. Only the ghosts left. Lonesome and melancholic buildings that greets you, a church without a roof, as in Santa Maria de Belsué. I eat lunch inside the church, by the altar, where there still is roof above my head. The only rain of the day came when I walked between the forsaken houses. After the small rain, the clouds has become so light that they slowly rises and disappears into an open sky. The path is also slowly rising up towards Lúsera.

One of the first abandoned villages you get to on the trail, Lúsera.

Low fences of stone guides you up to the precarious ruins of Lúsera. The church is the first building you come to, behind lies the shells of the remaining houses in the village. It has probably been a while since there was a sermon in the church. How safe the houses are, or the remnants of them, are somewhat uncertain, but I cannot keep from exploring the place. Mostly it is just the walls that are left. I do not enter into any of the buildings. I wonder how it would be to come here, if you are a descendant of someone who has spent their lives here. Then I discover that I am not alone, that there is actually some who has taken abode in the abandoned village, but who that is I cannot see. Looking back at the village, I see that it is clinging on to the upper side of a slope.

View back after Lúsera, the village is at the top of the slope.

The trail from there goes steep up to and down from two passes, Collado de Santa Coloma and Collado Barbero. Behind lies Santa Maria de Belsué and Lúsera. A view of ruins. Tozal de Guara (2078m), the highest mountain in the park, makes its entry in the skyline.

View of Tozal de Guara from Nocito.

Nocito is a tiny village situated in the mountain-shadow of Tozal de Guara. I decide to quit for the day when I arrive there, something that I would come to regret a little shortly afterwards. It would have been better to continue on and find a place to camp, so to cut down on the hard day that now awaits me tomorrow. I also felt that it was too early to stop, but still I stayed. When I have come to terms with it, I feel better and can relax.

Inside the small store of Casa Ortas Albás in Nocito.

And perhaps it was for the best, to get some shorter days as well. Casa Ortas Albás offers hospitality, good food and a place outside to relax at, together with a well-assorted store in the basement. A falcon lands on a chimney further down. There is not a cloud in the sky, the night will be chilly. I have the whole camping site to myself, but has a small room that I withdraw to when it has become dark and cold. Outside it is quiet; I wait for the animal cries in the night.

<- Embalse de ArguisPaúles de Sarsa ->

Wednesday, October 5, 2016

Bolea - Embalse de Arguis

GR1 Sendero Historico day 27.
Distance: 21.6km (784.5km), time spent: 6:32.
Waymarking: Good (El Camino).
Weather: Overcast and gloomy, a little better later on.

Today it was back up in the mountains again, on a route that crosses an open moorland with the summits of Pico Gratal, Gratal, Naviella and Punta Peiro around it. Gr1 and El Camino Natural de la Comarca de Hoya de Huesca follow each other as twins until they brutally separates and go on different ways to Arguis. The hostel in the village is recommended, but no available rooms makes me walk towards an uncertain place to sleep.

Bolea, situated between its twoo hills, La Colegiata de Bolea also visible.

It is not cheerful outside. It is far from sunny, as some of the house guests at Casa Ruffino yesterday pointedly declared it would be, but it did not rain at least. Only dramatic and gloomy clouds that forces themselves over the mountains I will cross over.

Ermita de la Trinidad, the chapel to the right, the hospederia to the left.

When the ascent into the mountains begins, I pass a small and lovely chapel, Ermita de la Trinidad. The house that before was the old hospederia of the chapel, that is where wayfarers, pilgrims and guest of the chapel could stay the night, is now just an empty shell. Vegetation grows out of the windows, the entrance is barricaded. The place would have been a nice place to camp at, with benches to sit on next to a more modern building, or you can see if you survive a haunted night in the hospederia.

Gloomy weather across the Hoya de Huesca creates a dramatic view.

The weather may not make the visibility from the ascent any better, but it makes a view that I have already seen more dramatic. Hoya de Huesca says farewell underneath a pale sky. I wonder how many others I will meet up here now. The answer is probably giving itself. The closest I get, is a snake that slithers across the path. The path, how well that feels, a minor objection against the GR1 is that it is too seldom that the trails goes on a path.

Pozo de nieve up into the mountain, these were used to create ice.

At the top of the pass, there is an old place to make ice, a pozo de nieve, a large hole and a smaller one, both with internal walls of stones stabled on top of each other. I take a break at the picnic-table there. Across the heath, clouds are drifting. Up here, there is open ground and a green moorland. Of unexplainable reason, the GR1 here goes down from the mountain again to the village of Bentue de Rasal, from where it follows a road the rest of the way to Arguis. Sometimes it seems like that GR1 is somewhat afraid of staying higher up, as soon as it has climbed up, it searches for ways down again. That said, the trail is supposedly following old ways and they tend to stick to safer grounds.

On the way up into a open moorland underneath heavy clouds.

El Camino however, continues further up into the desolate moorland covered by the clouds, it is not a difficult choice this time to follow that route. Sparse vegetation, around a landscape of undulating miniature hills. This is the coolest part of the walk today. Above, the trail goes in a loop around a valley, a bench and another table has views towards Pico Gratal, whose summit is hidden in the layer of clouds. Around the bench and table, the grass grows high. Below, a valley meanders with some few gravel tracks leading up into the mountains. The cheese and ham baguette is quickly eaten while the clouds reveals more and more of the mountain.

Pico Gratal.

Up at Collado de Sarramiana, El Camino is also satisfied with the gained altitude. Now, the clouds are on the run and blue sky is visible. I can barely see the Pyrenees far back in the view. Then trees takes over, when the path descends, steeply and somewhat hurtful. There are railings alongside the path. I opt out of going to the summit of Punta Peiro. The valley below appears through the trees. I scare some wild boars, who again scares up the bushes around them. The last five kilometres through Sierra de Gratal to Arguis are unfortunately less exciting, even though parts of them goes through something that reminds of a lunar landscape. On a sign warning about motorized vehicles, someone has quite strikingly scribbled down ‘Terrorismo ambiental’.

Collado de Sarramiana, Punta Peiro at the center of the picture, with a clearer view you could see the Pyrenees from here.

Hostal Migalón is no longer Hostal Migalón, now the place is named Hostal Barbacana and luckily for me, a room has suddenly became available. It is very pleasant place, although the room that I have is slightly dirty. The other guests are apparently workers on the road that comes up from Huesca and disappears into a tunnel further up. The employees at the hostel are friendly and easy to get in touch with.

Down through the woods to Sierra de Gratal, with railings next to the path.

The lunar landscape around Embalse de Arguis gives the water a grey and lifeless, but not charmless characterization. Like at Embalse de Ebro there are warning signs about ‘Atención navegantes’ at the lake, on the sign there is a picture of something looks much like a very angry parasite (reminds something of a tick), but are supposed to be mussels.

Wandering in a lunar landscape through Sierra de Gratal to Arguis.

White beans with meat, meat stew, rice cream and much wine for dinner. Good. I note down a smiley for today’s stage in the notebook I carry with me. Each day I try to write down feelings and experiences that I have during the walk, and those that I am unable to catch with my camera. In unsteady writing, I revisit todays walk over the mountain and heath. I hope that I later will be able to read my own handwriting about it has been a great day, but I pretty sure, that I will remember it anyway.

Embalse de Arguis.

<- Ermita de San CristóbalNocito ->

Tuesday, October 4, 2016

Ermita de San Cristóbal

GR1 Sendero Historico day 26.
Distance: 9.0km (762.9km), time spent: 2:44.
Weather: Very good.

Situated above Bolea, there is another chapel in the cliffs, built into a crevice of the terraced rock formations, but contrary to Ermita Virgen de la Peña, you cannot see Ermita de San Cristóbal from a distance. You can only get to this curious chapel by foot.

Torre de Marcuello in the far distance when I set out on the way to Ermita de San Cristóbal.

If you at first has walked to Bolea (from Loarre), then you have to walk back along the GR1 to get to where the path up to the chapel start, but the possibility of not having to carry your backpack up (and down again) makes the additional walk worth it. Close to where you leave the GR1, there is another chapel, Ermita Santa Quitera.

The path to Ermita de San Cristóbal, some curious rock formations in the hills above, the valley closing in at the end.

The trail up from Bolea provides the best scenery of the day. Above me there are some cool, small and red cliff formations that appears from the hills, the valley I walk gets narrower and narrower. This does not prevent me from thinking that it is really not a good idea of me to do this. As the clock turns, thoughts in my mind centers on what time it gets dark. I feel that a wiser idea would be to rest my feet instead. That is until I arrive at the place.

Stairs in the cliff up to the chapel.

Inside Ermita de San Cristóbal.

When I am almost entirely surrounded by the cliffs, I have come to the chapel, but I walk right past it without seeing it. First after I have forced myself up a slippery path through thick bush, I understand that I have arrived, in front of me a staircase of stone winds up into the cliffs. I had even stood and looked up at the chapel, without seeing it in the cliff.

Faded and worn mural inside the chapel.

Of the chapel itself, there is not much left; first and foremost it reminds me more of the work of a ‘mad’ hermit than a real chapel. The altar has almost fell together, the existing murals on the walls has faded and disappeared when the plaster has loosened from the walls. The walls of the chapel are built up by stones that are crudely cemented together. Cracks in the walls lets light through. Most sadly is it to see people’s constant need to scribble down their names and words on walls where they do not belong.

The backyard of the chapel so to speak.

This however, does not put a lid on the experience of the place at all. I am truly satisfied that I walked here. After walking through the two rooms of the chapel, you come to a small ledge where you can see down through the valley and out towards Hoya de Huesca. I can hear voices coming up from the narrow valley beneath me.

Inside the chapel, towards the entrance.

A shelf inside the cliff is turned into a makeshift altar. On the altar there is a bottle of water, a painted rock, to glass containers with pieces of paper inside and a guestbook (that someone has burned one of the corners of, curiously). I sign the guestbook with my usual walking alter ego. Outside there is another makeshift assembly, this time a crib.

A makeshift altar, with guestbooks, water, paper-containers and painted stones.

The other visitors appears, I stay for a while together with them before I venture on the way back again. I shake my head a little of myself that I did not see the place when I walked by it. I arrive back in Bolea to a great sunset.

The cliff housing Ermita de San Cristóbal.

Other thoughts have come to my mind when it comes to taking the higher traverse from Loarre and here, at least with a big backpack. To stumble down through the path from the hill above and down to the valley below Ermita de San Cristóbal, would have been a hard trial and a source of frustration. To refrain from visiting this marvellous location on the other hand is not recommended.

A chapel in a crevice in cliffs.

<- BoleaEmbalse de Arguis ->

Loarre - Bolea

GR1 Sendero Historico day 26.
Distance: 19.0km (753.9km), time spent: 5:35.
Waymarking: Missing for GR1, but good for El Camino Natural de la Comarca de Hoya de Huesca.
Weather: Nice.

The short walk of today did not count for more than just an apropos, it did not provide the greatest outbursts of joy, but an outbreak from the trail did just that. Afterwards, I was left with a question why the trail goes where it goes. There is supposed to be a marked path from Castillo de Loarre to Ermita Virgen de la Peña. Without knowing how well the condition of that path is, it sounds like a better alternative than both the GR1 and the El Camino Natural de la Comarca de Hoya de Huesca (El Camino), which both stays below.

Castillo de Loarre guarding above the trail.

After a somewhat late start of the day and a large and good breakfast at Hospederia de Loarre, I was ready to get on my feet again. The weather turned out to be nice, contrary to what I had expected; the recurring themes in the last days had been overcast in the morning. From Loarre, I had planned to follow the GR1 and not El Camino to Bolea, but that plan quickly turned out to lead me to confusing ways. The waymarking quickly disappeared after I had crossed the road going up to the castle, and then it was just to walk crestfallen past sculptures and playground equipment formed as dragons up to where El Camino went.

The church dedicated to St. Stephen in Aniés, the bell tower seemed oddly outsized compared to the rest of the building.

If nothing else, it brought me closer to Castillo de Loarre, which now lay above me with only almond trees between its guarding eyes and me. Since it did not became a visit to the castle today, nothing became of my plan to walk the higher traverse to the small chapel in the cliffs and from there down to Aniés. The most striking thing with the village is the bell tower of the church, which looks far too outsized compared to the rest of the church. In Aniés, I am so fortunate to find a bar and restaurant that lets me leave my backpack behind while I go visit Ermita Virgen de la Peña.

Birds of prey circles around the cliffs housing Ermita Virgen de la Peña, you arrive at the chapel from above.

Almost embedded in the cliffs above the village, we find a small chapel and cloister, Ermita Virgen de la Peña. It is a spectacular location. From its elevated location on the south side of Sierra Caballera, it has as Castillo de Loarre, a formidable view of Hoya de Huesca, but it is not the view that is the most spectacular about the place. The way you arrive at the chapel tells us everything about that.

Location of the Ermita Virgen de la Peña up in the cliffs.

Large vultures flies above me and around the cliffs when I stand below the chapel and look up, wondering where the entrance is. To get there however, the path takes an altogether different way; you go around and then steeply up a staircase almost carved into the cliffs and then arrive at the chapel from above. All the time with great views south. Unfortunately, it is only open in the weekends, the doors are locked and closed. Fortunately, you can stand above and look down upon the buildings that lies squeezed into the cliffs, but I would love to see what it looked like inside the doors.

Up to the chapel you walk on this staircase almost carved into the rock, with wonderful views of Hoya de Huesca.

There are two houses at the place, where it is the roofs that I see the most of, the chapel itself and Casa del Santero. The latter is almost entirely embedded in the cliff. I get an urge to try to climb down, but I resist the temptation, you will get a great experience here even if the doors are closed.

Casa del Santero that is almost entirely embedded into the cliff, below Aniés and Hoya de Huesca. Ermita Virgen de la Peña lies underneath the cliff in front of my feet.

I make another attempt to follow the GR1 from Aniés to Bolea, but the trail is again making some antics that makes it difficult to follow it. El Camino holds a steady course however, with GR1 occasionally turning up. The first impression of Bolea is not the greatest, looking worn, but Casa Ruffino seems like a very nice place and almost like the centre of life in the township.

Ermita Virgen de la Peña seen from above.

I have arrived at the destination for today, but it is not the time for shower yet. In the cliffs above Bolea there is another chapel, Ermita de San Cristóbal, and after having lunch I set out on another visit to a chapel in a cliff. From Ermita Virgen de la Peña there is a path to this chapel as well, so again I wonder why the GR1 from Loarre does not go directly past Castillo de Loarre, Ermita Virgen de la Peña and then Ermita de San Cristóbal before Bolea.

Old fortresses guarding in the horizon. Furthest back we can see Torre de Marcuello and to the right, Castillo de Loarre.

Back in Bolea, the sunset it on its way. Bolea lies between two hills and I climb up on top of one of them to get to see the sunset. Right next to the top is also La Colegiata de Bolea, a church built in the 1930's and now a national monument. At the top, there is a viewing point, Mirador del Fosal Viejo, and it is a perfect place to watch a landscape bath in a red light. In the warm colours from the sunset the houses of Bolea looks more alive again.

La Colegiata de Bolea, a national monument.

In Casa Ruffino there is still life. The place also offer a great dinner, pasta w/chees and meat, cutlets with patatas, caramel pudding, a lot of red wine and mineral water that tastes like lemon soda. I miss staying the night in my tent, but I also enjoy sitting like a fly on the wall and just observe the life in other places, experience other cultures and lifestyles. Two amazing chapels in cliffs and a beautiful sunset made the day today.

Sunset from Bolea.

<- Castillo de LoarreErmita de San Cristóbal ->