Sunday, September 27, 2015

Kaş - Boğazcık

The Lycian Way day 14.
Distance: 19.0 (226.4km), time spentt: 7:37 (91:15).
Altitude (start / end / highest): 6 / 301m / 405m.
Weather: Clear blue sky.


In as well as all the blogs about Likya Yolu that I have read, the writers has taken at least one zero day in Kaş. To me yesterday was a sort of a half zero day, so I want to continue further today. It will be a very hot day, though, as I became aware of yesterday. Coming down from the mountain, the temperature rose considerably. According to the guidebook, I should take the boat over to Limanağzı, which I will not do in any way.

The Greek island of Castellorizon (Meis) that lies outside Kaş. There is a small airport on the island and it is located so close to Turkey that I got a welcome to Greece-message on my cell phone.

On the way out of Kaş, I walk amongst tourists ready for their daily walks, when I am outside the town they are not to be seen. In the guidebook, the next stage is just the short walk to Limanağzı, two hours by its estimates. Is it because the writer thinks it is generally too far to the next place with accommodation that this stage is so short? I do not get any wiser of the walk.

The descent towards Limanağzı, turquoise water below.

After just about an hour, I arrive at what the book in my eyes almost describes as a death defying experience (ok, I do exaggerate a little here but). I have been warned against walking this section alone, in wet conditions and with a large backpack. I can check off that I am walking alone and quite possible that I carry a big backpack. The weather is though far away from being wet, above me the sun is baking incessantly, if it becomes wet it is because I sweat.

Tombs carved out in the mountains at the steep descent to Limanağzı.

Down to the beach, the path goes steep down, on that point I do agree with the guidebook, some parts contains attached ropes you can use to hold on to. I did not find any use of the ropes. The climb down is an easy scramble, with almost no climbing involved. Personally, I am of the opinion that it is a little bit wrong to describe this section as the guidebook does; it will frighten away people that probably would have managed to get down with no problems. The descent is very different from what you encounter at the GR20 on Corsica for instance, the Cirque de la Solitude is of an altogether other grade, still the book gives the impression that they are sort of the same. I had expected an exposed climb where I stood half balancing on the way down to be able to get my backpack with me.

On the other hand, I shall not complain, I enjoy the descent. Turquoise water beneath, historical tombs carved out of the mountainside and some funny scrambling.

Towards Çoban Plajı, the trail goes on a small ledge above the water.

It is a more isolated area the path enters after Limanağzı; I should not rely upon finding water. The trail becomes rocky and rough, the bushes dry, the earth red. From bay to bay. At a point, I suddenly hear the sound of waves crashing towards cliffs on the other side of me. It turns out that I walk on a small natural bridge of stone. Beneath me, the ocean goes in under the cliffs; I can look down into a deep ravine where water is sprayed at the cliffs with small rumbles. Further on, the path goes on a thin ledge above the water, before it continues over quarrelsome cliffs to Çoban Plajı.

Ufakdere, a former excavation site for a ship from the bronze-age, now a place with accommodation and a café.

In almost every bay that I come to there is a boat, everything from yachts to ornamented sailboats. It is popular to hire a boat with a crew down here. In Ufakdere, there was everything else than a modern boat they found, there they dug out a shipwreck from the bronze-age. On board the ship, they found amphorae's (jugs) filled with resin, ingots of copper, tin and blue glass, as well as luxury goods such as ostrich eggshells, ivory, ebony, drinking cups of bronze and copper, beads of amber and glass. The ship is no longer located here, it lies (almost complete) in a museum in Bodrum.

Deveçikaralan, a small bay. Above the bay, there were several houses illegally built, now razed to the ground by bulldozers.

The buildings used during the excavation work are now turned into a place for accommodation and a café. I take a longer break here. With the exception of the deluge on the way to Bezirgan, and it barely can be called a bath, I have not had a swim since I was in Gelemiş. It is about time, the water is cooling, even though it is not cold.

At the end of the Üzüm Iskelesi, a lonely palm tree grows up between the rocks; in the background, you can see the remains of the Roman tower at Dinek Tepe.

Sasha and Alice are at Üzüm Iskelesi (grape-harbour), we seems to be passing each other's steadily (not unusual on long distance trails). In defiance of the rumours, there is a good water source just nearby, so they are content with their walk for today and will stay here. I join them for a swim before I continue further, while Sasha gets to try the fishing rod of a local fisherman.

A salamander does not look further pleased by my presence.

The coast with its rocky path is left behind in the end and I move inlands. At Dinek Tepe stands the remains of a Roman tower, only three of the corners still holds. At a junction there is a chaos of waymarks, someone has gone to great lengths to mark that the trail is continuing on the gravel track and not onto a path leading away from it. It is painted crosses everywhere. Two German ladies having a break next to the junction clears up the confusion and tells me that the trail follows the path and not the gravel track. The wind has gotten stronger and there is quite the hold in it on the last dry section towards Boğazcık.

A cistern with an aqueduct to gather water.

In Boğazcık, I feel content with the walk. I meet again Melike in Ali's House. Which is nice, but quite surprising to me, until she tells me that she has skipped the part of the trial between Kalkan and Kaş. I am allowed to pitch my tent in the garden to dry it; it is still wet after yesterday's morning even though I put it out to dry on the floor of my guesthouse in Kaş. I dries quickly in the wind. The two German ladies are also coming here, also being on der Lykischer Weg.

Ali's House in Boğazcık, a nice stay with pleasant guests and hosts.

The place is nice. They are quite concerned here that it should be clean as opposed to how it was in Bezirgan, perhaps a little bit too much, but also as opposed to Bezirgan they got Efes here. I am satisfied with the day, but still there is something missing without me managing to pinpoint what it is. It was nice after Limanağzı, but not so very exciting; the heat may take the blame. Two weeks has passed.

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