Friday, July 17, 2015

Bodenaya - Tineo

Camino Primitivo / Camino Finisterre day 6.
Distance: 12.1km (118.1km), time spent: 3:11 (38:17).
Weather: Sun and a clear blue sky.


The day almost begins with a disaster, but before that we had been awaken with calm classical music at precisely 6 o'clock and the smell of fresh coffee. Below, all the clothes that had been washed was lying nicely laid out and the breakfast stood ready on the table, as promised. It should have been a great morning, because the breakfast was good and big, and the weather was looking brilliant.

Bodenaya in the morning.

Then it all comes tumbling down when the lens to my camera breaks apart, to me that is a small disaster (you could say that I live my adventures through the lens). Inside the lens, I can hear that there is something loose and I can no longer use the zoom, though I can use my hands to pull and push the lens in and out. Short after, the lens is completely jammed and I can no longer focus either. My camera is broken and useless. It is a good thing that I carry a backup camera, but that one does not nearly take as good pictures as my slr does.

A lonely tomb among cows in a field outside La Espina.

David is trying to comfort me and tells me that Tineo is a large town and that there are two stores there who sells photo equipment. I am a little bit sceptic to that, but chooses to be optimistic. That the weather is showcasing off its best side and the walk is offering a magnificent view makes me vexed given the thought of the nice pictures I could have got, but I am still in a good mood. Today's walk is way too nice for me to whine it all away, and I do get to take pictures.

Between Bodenaya and Tineo, the route mostly went on charming paths and gravel roads with a nice view, like here.

From Bodenaya it is only a short walk to La Espina, a small town where you can also find a couple of albergues, in a lovely morning sunlight. After La Espina, it is a wonderful walk on pleasant paths and gravel roads. The view from the trail is the best. I can look out over a green and rolling culture landscape with mountains rising up back in the horizon. White veils of clouds are floating along the valley floors beneath the mountains.

The highlight of the walk was the magnificent view towards mountains over a rolling culture landscape.

In between, the charming route goes down to and through small villages and farms. In La Millariega, the locals have built another typical resting place for pilgrims, El Rincon del Peregrino (sello available), with chairs and tables inside and vending machines that you can buy drinks and snacks from. Before I came to the place, I had chased a poor small calf for a long while, which could not find any place to escape from a scary pilgrim on.

A misleading waymarker-stone, where both the yellow arrows and the scallop was pointing in the wrong direction.

The great view is visible in my left field of view all the way to Tineo. I passes Vicente, who seems to be in a better shape and now carries a bigger water bottle. I really wanted to check what it is he carried with him in his backpack, but I feel that it would have been too much invading. In a small bar outside Tineo, I find Elke, Elisabeth and the Austrian woman with the difficult name I never remember, as well as Pol. I buy myself a coffee and get sympathies for free for the loss of my camera from the other pilgrims.

Before La Millariega, I encounter a young calf that ran away from me without finding a place to escape the creepy pilgrim that was following it.

In Tineo, which looks like to be a charming town, I try to find the two stores selling photo equipment. The tourist information can confirm what I myself has feared; it is more likely that it is stores selling small compact cameras than real photo equipment. For that, Lugo or Oviedo is the safest cards, but both towns seems too far away to get to and back again today. Grado emerges as a possibility and the lady at the reception makes an enquiring call, and gets a positive answer. There is a photo store there that says they have lenses for my Nikon camera. I check the weather forecast for tomorrow and makes a stupid decision.

Pilgrim statue at the entrance to Tineo.

So there was only to be a short walk today, which ends here in Tineo, just 12km and 3 hours only. I do not bother going back to the municipal albergue here, which lies just outside the centre of the town. Instead, I checks in at the Palacio a Meras, which is both a hotel and an albergue, it cost 10 euro for a bed in the albergue that is more luxurious than the usual ones.

Tineo, a nice and small town.

Tomorrow I was supposed to walk the stage between Borres and Berducedo, which is the one stage I had the greatest expectations for on the Camino Primitivo, where you walk up in the mountains on the Hospitales-route. However, the weather forecast was a thunderstorm. The combination of bad weather tomorrow and the possibility of fixing my camera is the reason for why I am sitting on the bus to Grado. Where I pass by all the places I have been going through since aforementioned Grado, La Espina, Salas, Cornellana and so forth. I can see pilgrims following the same yellow arrows that I have done on the previous days.

In Grado, while I am waiting for photo shop to open. I passed quickly by here two days ago, then it was a marked on the same place.

In Grado I have to wait for over two and a half hours for the store to open, slightly annoyed over the siesta, only to find out that the lenses they have for sale is for Canon and not for Nikon. In my mind, I am also wondering what I would do if I do not catch the last bus back, all my belongings are at the albergue in Tineo. The temperature is also so high that I cannot bear to take a proper look at the town while I am here (I did not get to see so much of it the last time I was here either). With an unresolved case, I get on the bus back to Tineo again, passing by the same places yet again (the bus ride is however quite nice). And now, the pilgrims that I had begun to be familiar with one day ahead of me, my mood is not at its best.

Dinner in Tineo at the Palacio a Meras, together with Julio, Eva, Marine and Valery.

Luckily, others that I have met that has come to Tineo. I grab a beer together with a group of Spanish pilgrims I have met and talked to earlier. Together with Marine, Valery and two other Spanish pilgrims that have finished their walk here, Julio and Eva, I eat dinner at the restaurant at the hotel. Menu del peregrino, where the primero is a very good plate with peas and bacon, the secundo is an ok hake, with a pear as desert. The day turned out nice in the end, saved by a great view and a nice evening, but the vexation still lingers a little bit in me.

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