Tuesday, August 28, 2012

GR20 // day 1 // Calenzana - Ortu di u Piobbu

Distance: 12km, altitude at start: 275m, altitude at end: 1570m, highest point: 1570m.

Early morning a late august day in Calenzana. A quiet sigh from the watch is indicating that the time is four o’clock in the morning; I can hear voices in the dark outside of the tent. People are already up and are anxious to get going. So am I, but it is way too early in my opinion and I withdraws back into my sleeping bag. By the time I finally wakes up, a lot of people have already started walking.

I’m not the only one from Norway here. I've met two other couples here who are also here to walk the GR20, Laurits and Agnes, and Odd and Gro. However, they’ve only planned to walk the northern part, Odd and Gro has previously done the southern part.

Early in the morning. People are making ready to leave at the Gîte d'Etape in Calenzana.

And so at last am I at the start of GR20, the iconic route that traverses over the mountains of Corsica from north to south. Ahead of me lies 190km of rock and mountains. I can’t hide that I’m quite excited when I’m heading out of Calenzana in the direction of Conca. But, I won’t be there before several days from now on. Today the walk goes to the Refuge d’Ortu di u Piobbu, and it’s uphill all the way. The sun is still hidden behind the mountains above me when I follow the red and white markers in the morning light. The path goes up through the hill between maquis, pines and chestnut trees. I’m finally on my way, and soon Calvi (which will follow me for a long time in the distance) is visible in the horizon. Down below is Calenzana looking up at me where I’m moving towards the mountains, just as to say that it's still not too late to turn back.

Calenzana. On my way up towards Ortu di u Piobbu and my first day on the GR20. Nice weather, walking in the shade for the most of the day.

A couple of hours after walking round the serrated ridge of Capu di u Ravalente and moved upwards through woods and stone, I emerges from the shade at Bocca a u Saltu (1250m) and, finally, to the sun. Too late to meet the foreign legion going off on their seven days traverse of the path, but not too late to be able to enjoy the great view. Uninterrupted by clouds. In the horizon the sea and sky paints the background blue. The arms of the mountains reach upwards from the landscape. At the pass I meet Laurits and Agnes again. The view demands for a break in the beautiful weather. Afterwards we go together the rest of the way.

Up towards Bocca a u Bassiguellu I come to the first parts that demand some easy scrambling. I leave the chains untouched, in this nice weather there is no use for them. Lizards are scuttling everywhere. The sun is warming now, but there are clouds on their way over the landscape, drifting in from the sea. Monte Corona is seen rising on the other side of the valley, emerald colored, when I pass under the Crête du Fucu. Refuge d’Ortu di u Piobbu lies beneath the mountain, I can see that many have already reached the cabin and have pitched their tents. Nothing else to expect though. The path was closed between Calenzana and Haut Asco for three days before I arrived due to forest fire danger, there were many people waiting to start walking this day. Though, somebody didn’t care about it and walked anyway.

The way up towards Capu di u Ravalente.

At the waymark between the GR20 (Fra Li Monti) and the Tra Mare e Monti. By following the Tra Mare e Monti trail you can walk to Ortu di u Piobbu by a path that is supposedly easier. This is a low-level variant, that goes through Bonifatu. I do suspect though that going in that direction makes for a hard climb at the end. I choose the high-level route.

When I arrive at the cabin the clouds have drifted in over the mountains, I find myself a nice place for my tent a little way down from the cabin. From the tent I can look up at Monte Corona and the clouds with their grey blankets above. Even though I took my time getting here, I arrived quite early. The cabin is definite more basic than what I’m used to from back home. There’re almost no places to sit inside, but outside there is a terrace with a view. From the terrace you can see down towards Bonifatu and over to the ridge where you passed over coming from Calenzana.

View from Bocca a u Saltu. In the background Calvi and the sea is visible.

After walking up to the top of Monte Corona, it is finally time to enjoy what the cabin has of facilities. First out is to stand in line to get a shower, and we’re not talking about a spa here. For along the GR20 a hot shower is a rarity, but you can get a shower at least. It’s just ice cold though. You can hear people breathe heavily from inside. Relaxing in the sun with a cold Pietra is definitively much more enjoyable.

Bocca a u Saltu. The trail continues along the ridge inside the woods before goes over the ridge and then continues ahead to Ortu di u Piobbu on the other side. Monte Corona in the background.

The dinner is served inside, and now tables and chairs are available. I’m placed together with a group of French people and French speaking which I’m not, I do not understand much of what’s being said. But after a while some English words is spoken and I can take part of a conversation. The food was good, Corsican soup as a starter, lenses with figatellu (a local sausage) for the main course and a rich chocolate cake for dessert.

Walkers on their way towards Bocca a u Bassiguellu. Some parts demanded som easy scrambling.

Darkness descends and when the moon and the stars shines their lights down on Ortu di u Piobbu most of the walkers has retreated to their tents and gone to sleep. I sit down on the rocks next to my tent and enjoy the clear and starry sky, it’s quiet and peaceful. On the other side of the valley, from where I came from, I can see a lonely runner on his way back towards Calenzana. In the dark I can follow the light from his headlamp move together with the landscape. Just after the light disappears over the ridge another six new walkers appears, only their lights visible. Slow, but sure, six small lights is moving along a ridge I can’t see the contours of.

The path winding alongside the Crête de Fucu. Monte Corona to the right in the picture with its green mountainside. Refuge d'Ortu di u Piobbu is situated a little way down below from the top.

Refuge d'Ortu di u Piobbu.

Before I goes to bed for my first night on the trail, I look back at a nice start. The trail up to Ortu di u Piobbu is varied and offers some great views, but it also consists of some nice parts through woods. Not as hard as expected. Steadily upwards, but that isn’t unlike Norway. The hike up to the top of Monte Corona put the finishing touch on my first day in the mountains of Corsica.

Sunset at Refuge d'Ortu di u Piobbu.

Monte Corona ->

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